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Hi All, The factory alignment on my new 2014 boxster was pulling slightly to the left. Now after an alignment (I found out they used a older John Bean machine, instead of their new Hunter as it was tied up with another client :( ) it seems to pull to the right a bit or a slight bias to the right... Can anyone read over the spec attached and tell me what they think... any idea why it would have a slight bias to the right... whenever I take my hands off the wheel that where is goes ever so slightly. Would the Hunter machine made a difference? I sound like a complete idiot when I tell the dealership this stuff, because the first time when I got the car, the sales rep said it tracks straight.. but I insisted it had a slight left bias... now after a 4 wheel alignment, the service tech says its within spec and goes straight and I feel it goes to the right... Mind you the reflectors on the alignment machine seem hokey, every time he tried to tie up the toe, camber, the numbers would move, seems like its not a good setup...the tech told me you can't change the caster...yet somehow on the printout the caster changes from the original to the final? but I don't know should I ask then to check it again on the Hunter? see attached and comment please!
bmw_toronto started following Replaced MAF, now I see Misfires on all the cylinders, Results of my alignment on a new 981 - any input?, Factory 981 Alignment Specs and and 2 others
Something doesn't make any sense. on the image above it states Camber at -20? from the link below in the forum, it states camber -1.5 How on earth is camber at -20? the car wouldn't drive? I must be reading this very wrong..
If want the car to track MORE straight.. and left input everyseconds.. that how it is feeling now... the slightest rock on the road on uneven pavement the car totally shift left and right.. way more than my previous 987.. what would be the best numbers (camber/toe) to aim for?
Hi Loren, Thanks for that. Would you know a base 2014, with no features..which coloums would be applicable? - the "Standard" or one of the others? Also the tolerences are very high... if I'm reading this correctly..for examplple - Rear Axle - Toe per wheel on standard says 8'..but then a tolerance of +-5'? Is that a huge tollerance on 8'
Hi All, Does anyone have the original alignment/factory specs for the 2014 981 boxster w/18" wheels? I'm going for any alignment as my new car tracks a little to the left and just wondering the proper specs... The wheel actually seems to track all over the place but straight..constant inputs required... I just hope its an alignment issue and not the electric steering..as I never had that before.. Thanks
Hi All, Does anyone know in the above (in the thread) wiring diagram the REAR outputs are active/live? And is there wiring coming out of the wiring harness for this? The reason, I'm trying to figure this out is two fold. I would like to install some speakers in the rear speaker space and if they are live, it would give a more complete sound on my base setup of two speaker in the cabin. I bought a car off the lot, so I didn't have the option to upgrade :( The other reason I ask, is that I would like to install a small Kenwood KSC-SW11 self powered sub under the passenger seat and would rather take a feed off the spare REAR connectors than interfere by tapping the from wiring (no sure if tapping would take away from the sounds level to the front). Thanks again!
Hi All, I have a 2014 981 Base (non bose and no audio upgraded). I have burnt a MP3 CD that work fine, I like to listen to my songs in Shuffle Mode. But I have the upgraded Sports steering wheel with no controls on it. I would like an EASY way to advance to the next song with the control bar (not sure what it is called or Stalk behind the steering wheel that controls the mini-display on the dash), Is there a trick with that control bar to advance to the next song in Shuffle mode? The only thing that seems to work is the next button directly on the radio itself. I'm worried it with break or wear out. Thanks
Hi Loren, I unfortunately don't have the Bose option :( I picked up the last 2014 off the lot with a significant discount. But it has the base 2 x 25 watt output, its not bad, but I need a sub to fill in the bottom. I'm deciding between the Kicker Hideaway and the Kenwood self powered sub. Basically whatever will fit under the passenger seat. This should be enough audio to fill in the bottom of the sound. It's too bad I can't find a place to put it in the cabin without causing seat vibration (like the bose's sub output is between the two seats. If I could have ordered the car with the Bose I would have, but the discount was too good, so I'm now living with the stock base audio. If anyone here tried the Kicker vs Kenwood - self powered, comments would be appreciated. I think the kenwood is smaller so fitting under the seat may be easier. If there was a place to put it between the seats like the Bose or in the foot well perhaps, but would loose space for the passenger. So when I have a passenger they will just have to suffer with some vibe on the butt. For $200 for one of these self powered subs and half a day of my time, it seems like the simplest solution for now.
Hi Loren, Thanks for this diagram! Much appreciated. Four quick followup questions: 1) is there any interface made by a 3rd party company that will allow the CDR31 to interface in some way, and derive a Line Level output that I can put to a 3rd party amp/sub setup? I rather not conver high to low, bu have it done with an interface box if that is possible. 2) Since there are speaker outputs for the rear (I understand from my reading that there are no speakers in those spots, would it be possible to install speakers in those rear locations and wire them to the unused connections on the CDR31 in the diagram u sent? Or are they limited by firmware to no put out sound on those connectors? 3) How does the Bose interface with this system, assuming I would have had that option. I don't see how the signal becomes digital for their amp setup.. the base CDR31 looks like a simple analog output? 4) What would be the default impedece of the base speakers or the high output from the back of the cdr31 base? 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm? Thanks again!
I'm trading my 987 in for a 981 2014 model year. Its the base CDR... no nav or upgrades... I looked for hours but can't find the back of that head unit... or wiring output :(
Hi All, I'm just about to order a 2014 off the dealer lot and it doesn't have any stereo upgrades (no bose, no pcm, no stereo plius, just the 2x25 watts). I currently have a 987 that I'm trading in that did have the Bose. I love music, but this is what they got on the lot. I want to just add a simple self powered kenwood sub under the seat (sw11) or similar this year and then later on upgrade the door speaker and and a decent amp. I want to know if there is ANY way to get a line out from the factor head unit, as I want to keep that stock. I don't want to use a JL Clean Sweep as the audio is not that great out of it, I would prefer to come line out directly from the factory unit. Worse case scenario if there is no way of getting a clean line out, does the base CDR31 have aleat a non-digial analog output on the wiring harness that I can put a clean sweep gadget to convert the highs to lows. Thanks. Looked all over the web but cant find a wiring output for the cdr31
I have the original Durametric 5 but there is nothing about Readiness or anything similar to that in the manual or anywhere in the tool.
Loren, thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. That being said, I'm seeing strange things on the Durametric tool. When I start the care and run the tool in realtime Actual Values mode, the Cylinder misfires are detected immediately on random cylinders anywhere from 0 to 7 misfires, but then the values do not increase from idling or driving? Could it be perhaps just misfiring on startup? Also when I check for Fault codes or the Fault memore, the care registers with Durametric "No Fault codes". So is there a chance I'm just reading the values incorrectly, and perhaps there should be a few misfires on startup as the numbers don't rise? - maybe I'm using the tool wrong? Also without the missfires registering a Fault Code in the care, would there be a chance that my emission test pass the way it is, so I have some more time to look into these issue? Also, is there anyway in Durametric 5 to check for the Rediness of the Drive Cycle? Any help is much appreciated!
Hi all! Many months ago I had a problem with the MAF shutting down the engine/staffing it on startup (tried cleaning it no luck). I disconnected the MAF and it ran fine on the default values, just burning more fuel. Now its time to get my emissions test so I bit the bullet and bought a new Bosch MAF. I installed the MAF, and the durametric software cleared the fault codes and the new MAF is giving off normal values hovering around 10-13 on car idle. The issue I am having is that I am receiving multiple misfires on all the cylinders through the Durametric software when the new MAF is connected. When I disconnect the mass airflow sensor I obviously get a check engine light, but I get 0 misfires on any of the cylinders. I know that the maf is brand-new and is putting out valid values so I don't think that is the problem. The car is about 9 years old as it is a 2005 base Boxster 2.7 L engine and has never had its spark plugs coils for replaced (old owner was an idiot!). The car has 83,000 km on it. My initial guess is that the spark plugs need to be replaced or potentially the coil packs. Is this assumption correct? Two other items to take into account is that the old MAF was covered in oil and there was a small puddle of oil in the intake system/velum. Also when the mass airflow sensor was disconnected the engine would start obviously a little rougher but there was a plume of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Now that the sensor is replaced, the white smoke has disappeared. I thought that this may have been up potential AOS problem, but maybe it was just an issue with airflow sensor in disconnected. The other item to take into account is that I have a constant issue with the cooling system flushing the coolant out of the car (near the right rear wheel) when I shut off the engine I checked the coolant tank and it appears to be fine with no cracks but I was told that it may be the coolant CAP Issue - not sure how a coolant cap makes a difference, but this is what I was told. I have not investigated this issue yet as I'm trying to deal with the codes that are generating the misfires now (priority as I need to pass the emissions test) that I replace the mass airflow sensor which I am assuming once again that it may just be spark plugs and or the coils. What do you think? Any help is much appreciated!