bmw_toronto

Hi All, The factory alignment on my new 2014 boxster was pulling slightly to the left. Now after an alignment (I found out they used a older John Bean machine, instead of their new Hunter as it was tied up with another client :( ) it seems to pull to the right a bit or a slight bias to the right... Can anyone read over the spec attached and tell me what they think... any idea why it would have a slight bias to the right... whenever I take my hands off the wheel that where is goes ever so slightly. Would the Hunter machine made a difference? I sound like a complete idiot when I tell the dealership this stuff, because the first time when I got the car, the sales rep said it tracks straight.. but I insisted it had a slight left bias... now after a 4 wheel alignment, the service tech says its within spec and goes straight and I feel it goes to the right... Mind you the reflectors on the alignment machine seem hokey, every time he tried to tie up the toe, camber, the numbers would move, seems like its not a good setup...the tech told me you can't change the caster...yet somehow on the printout the caster changes from the original to the final? but I don't know should I ask then to check it again on the Hunter? see attached and comment please!

Something doesn't make any sense. on the image above it states Camber at -20? from the link below in the forum, it states camber -1.5 How on earth is camber at -20? the car wouldn't drive? I must be reading this very wrong..

If want the car to track MORE straight.. and left input everyseconds.. that how it is feeling now... the slightest rock on the road on uneven pavement the car totally shift left and right.. way more than my previous 987.. what would be the best numbers (camber/toe) to aim for?

Hi Loren, Thanks for that. Would you know a base 2014, with no features..which coloums would be applicable? - the "Standard" or one of the others? Also the tolerences are very high... if I'm reading this correctly..for examplple - Rear Axle - Toe per wheel on standard says 8'..but then a tolerance of +-5'? Is that a huge tollerance on 8'

Hi All, Does anyone have the original alignment/factory specs for the 2014 981 boxster w/18" wheels? I'm going for any alignment as my new car tracks a little to the left and just wondering the proper specs... The wheel actually seems to track all over the place but straight..constant inputs required... I just hope its an alignment issue and not the electric steering..as I never had that before.. Thanks

Hi All, Does anyone know in the above (in the thread) wiring diagram the REAR outputs are active/live? And is there wiring coming out of the wiring harness for this? The reason, I'm trying to figure this out is two fold. I would like to install some speakers in the rear speaker space and if they are live, it would give a more complete sound on my base setup of two speaker in the cabin. I bought a car off the lot, so I didn't have the option to upgrade :( The other reason I ask, is that I would like to install a small Kenwood KSC-SW11 self powered sub under the passenger seat and would rather take a feed off the spare REAR connectors than interfere by tapping the from wiring (no sure if tapping would take away from the sounds level to the front). Thanks again!

Hi All, I have a 2014 981 Base (non bose and no audio upgraded). I have burnt a MP3 CD that work fine, I like to listen to my songs in Shuffle Mode. But I have the upgraded Sports steering wheel with no controls on it. I would like an EASY way to advance to the next song with the control bar (not sure what it is called or Stalk behind the steering wheel that controls the mini-display on the dash), Is there a trick with that control bar to advance to the next song in Shuffle mode? The only thing that seems to work is the next button directly on the radio itself. I'm worried it with break or wear out. Thanks

Hi Loren, I unfortunately don't have the Bose option :( I picked up the last 2014 off the lot with a significant discount. But it has the base 2 x 25 watt output, its not bad, but I need a sub to fill in the bottom. I'm deciding between the Kicker Hideaway and the Kenwood self powered sub. Basically whatever will fit under the passenger seat. This should be enough audio to fill in the bottom of the sound. It's too bad I can't find a place to put it in the cabin without causing seat vibration (like the bose's sub output is between the two seats. If I could have ordered the car with the Bose I would have, but the discount was too good, so I'm now living with the stock base audio. If anyone here tried the Kicker vs Kenwood - self powered, comments would be appreciated. I think the kenwood is smaller so fitting under the seat may be easier. If there was a place to put it between the seats like the Bose or in the foot well perhaps, but would loose space for the passenger. So when I have a passenger they will just have to suffer with some vibe on the butt. For $200 for one of these self powered subs and half a day of my time, it seems like the simplest solution for now.

Hi Loren, Thanks for this diagram! Much appreciated. Four quick followup questions: 1) is there any interface made by a 3rd party company that will allow the CDR31 to interface in some way, and derive a Line Level output that I can put to a 3rd party amp/sub setup? I rather not conver high to low, bu have it done with an interface box if that is possible. 2) Since there are speaker outputs for the rear (I understand from my reading that there are no speakers in those spots, would it be possible to install speakers in those rear locations and wire them to the unused connections on the CDR31 in the diagram u sent? Or are they limited by firmware to no put out sound on those connectors? 3) How does the Bose interface with this system, assuming I would have had that option. I don't see how the signal becomes digital for their amp setup.. the base CDR31 looks like a simple analog output? 4) What would be the default impedece of the base speakers or the high output from the back of the cdr31 base? 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm? Thanks again!

I'm trading my 987 in for a 981 2014 model year. Its the base CDR... no nav or upgrades... I looked for hours but can't find the back of that head unit... or wiring output :(

Hi All, I'm just about to order a 2014 off the dealer lot and it doesn't have any stereo upgrades (no bose, no pcm, no stereo plius, just the 2x25 watts). I currently have a 987 that I'm trading in that did have the Bose. I love music, but this is what they got on the lot. I want to just add a simple self powered kenwood sub under the seat (sw11) or similar this year and then later on upgrade the door speaker and and a decent amp. I want to know if there is ANY way to get a line out from the factor head unit, as I want to keep that stock. I don't want to use a JL Clean Sweep as the audio is not that great out of it, I would prefer to come line out directly from the factory unit. Worse case scenario if there is no way of getting a clean line out, does the base CDR31 have aleat a non-digial analog output on the wiring harness that I can put a clean sweep gadget to convert the highs to lows. Thanks. Looked all over the web but cant find a wiring output for the cdr31

I have the original Durametric 5 but there is nothing about Readiness or anything similar to that in the manual or anywhere in the tool.

Loren, thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated. That being said, I'm seeing strange things on the Durametric tool. When I start the care and run the tool in realtime Actual Values mode, the Cylinder misfires are detected immediately on random cylinders anywhere from 0 to 7 misfires, but then the values do not increase from idling or driving? Could it be perhaps just misfiring on startup? Also when I check for Fault codes or the Fault memore, the care registers with Durametric "No Fault codes". So is there a chance I'm just reading the values incorrectly, and perhaps there should be a few misfires on startup as the numbers don't rise? - maybe I'm using the tool wrong? Also without the missfires registering a Fault Code in the care, would there be a chance that my emission test pass the way it is, so I have some more time to look into these issue? Also, is there anyway in Durametric 5 to check for the Rediness of the Drive Cycle? Any help is much appreciated!

Hi all! Many months ago I had a problem with the MAF shutting down the engine/staffing it on startup (tried cleaning it no luck). I disconnected the MAF and it ran fine on the default values, just burning more fuel. Now its time to get my emissions test so I bit the bullet and bought a new Bosch MAF. I installed the MAF, and the durametric software cleared the fault codes and the new MAF is giving off normal values hovering around 10-13 on car idle. The issue I am having is that I am receiving multiple misfires on all the cylinders through the Durametric software when the new MAF is connected. When I disconnect the mass airflow sensor I obviously get a check engine light, but I get 0 misfires on any of the cylinders. I know that the maf is brand-new and is putting out valid values so I don't think that is the problem. The car is about 9 years old as it is a 2005 base Boxster 2.7 L engine and has never had its spark plugs coils for replaced (old owner was an idiot!). The car has 83,000 km on it. My initial guess is that the spark plugs need to be replaced or potentially the coil packs. Is this assumption correct? Two other items to take into account is that the old MAF was covered in oil and there was a small puddle of oil in the intake system/velum. Also when the mass airflow sensor was disconnected the engine would start obviously a little rougher but there was a plume of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Now that the sensor is replaced, the white smoke has disappeared. I thought that this may have been up potential AOS problem, but maybe it was just an issue with airflow sensor in disconnected. The other item to take into account is that I have a constant issue with the cooling system flushing the coolant out of the car (near the right rear wheel) when I shut off the engine I checked the coolant tank and it appears to be fine with no cracks but I was told that it may be the coolant CAP Issue - not sure how a coolant cap makes a difference, but this is what I was told. I have not investigated this issue yet as I'm trying to deal with the codes that are generating the misfires now (priority as I need to pass the emissions test) that I replace the mass airflow sensor which I am assuming once again that it may just be spark plugs and or the coils. What do you think? Any help is much appreciated!

That's funny the tech at the Toronto dealership charged me $80 for the Recall Letter. Guess its all in the approach... no standards for this stuff... Joe

just drove it over the border and declared it there... make sure u buy from states that don't have a Sales or Use tax.... you seem rather new to this process, read up a bit more first, there are a lot of threads on here about it...

You also pay the duty and GST on the red book value, not on your purchase price. For example, the Gallargdo spyder is about $160,000 used, but i would pay on the Canadian red book value at ($220,000 * 0.061) then GST ontop at * .05. Its still a deal cause i only paid $160k and not 220k for the G Car

Don't call the dealers and tell them what u want to do... act as if u already imported the car. Also its often much easier to get the letter from the US dealers than the canadian ones.. especially in your case as it sounds. its a simple process. now getting a lambo into canada is harder... but working on a 2008 gallardo spyder.. i want one!!! pm sent bmw. Can you give me your dealers name as i will try and deal with them. If these B.C dealers both gave me a line they must have been talking to each other. I am going to call them again and find out whats what. Why would they both tell me this? I am getting very ticked off with the lines i am getting from B.C dealers.

Just brought my second boxster 987 into canada last week... so I don't know where u are getting all this from, took me 30 mins at the boarder for the paper work, got a recall letter from the the dealer in Toronto after paying them $80... Canadian tire inspection 1 hour, registered the car with plates on Friday, took another 40 mins and done. And decals never was an issues with both boxsters i bought... Canadian tire just doesn't care.... I think you got a line from porsche canada or something... LOL

I just completed installing the KOS-A200, and it works fantastic. My friend and I completed the entire install... we ended up tapping the antenna behind the CDR-24. We installed the unit behind my seat. Tapped power switched and non from the fuse panel. Put the sensor next to the console. It looks great and sounds fantastic. That was the best $130 I spent on the car so far, wish I had done it two years ago... Having all the music on USB is so easy and cool. I notic that once in a blue moon, a song with pause then continue almost like a skip... but all my mp3s are from limewire, so i may have a corrupted file or two....do you experience this? It is truly awesome... Yosi

If there is anyone in or around Toronto, that has a Durametric setup or PIWIS, that could reset my service indicator it would be much appreciated. I did my own poil change and the dealership - Downtown Porsche wants money to reset my indicator, they won't do me a favor. If anyone could help me out if would be much appreciated. Thanks... Yosi

Hi All, I'm going to attempt to install a FM Modulator/USB Music System (Kenwood KOS-A200) in my 2005 Boxster with Bose (no PCM). I would like to get you opinion on two items: 1) I had a basic wired FM Modulator that worked great in my BMW-loved it. Instead of removing the head unit, I opened up the pillar where the antenna amplifier was situated and wired in the modulator there, between the feed from the head unit and the antenna amplifier. I understand that in the 987 it is located in the Passenger A-Pillar, I wish to do the same, and attach both of the leads to and from the modulator there with two antenna adapters (std motorola to euro antenna adapters). Is there enough room in there for these cables?, and do you think I could run them down to the passanger footwell area behind the glovebox where I plan to mount the modulator system? I really don't want to take out the headunit (too many headaches, keys etc...), so this is the easiest way I can imagine... what do you think? 2) Since the radio reception on the 2005 97 REALLY sucks, tons of static, station drifting etc... Porsche told me twice they checked it and everything was normal... (my dollar store radio picks up stations better!) I was thinking after feeding the sound in from the modulator into the CDR24, maybe instead of re-hooking up the ****ty windshield antenna and antenna amplifier with one of my euro cable convertors to the other side of the modulator, Now is my opportunity to replace that crummy antenna setup with a third party antenna or amplified antenna? what do you think? any recommendations/thoughts? something that could be hidden that works better? Finally, I need switched and unswitched power, I was going to run those leads directly off the fuse panel (As the 987 doesn't have a phone connector with switched power,... unless the antenna amplifier in the A-pillar is switched and that may be a good source, since I already have that panel open...... Any thoughts, recommendations..... Thanks, Yosi

Thanks!

Does anyone know the proper way to removed the cover for the passenger A-Pillar in a 987? Do I pull?, unscrew? People having been telling me ways for the 986, but they don't seem to apply.. or they guess even worst... If someone that has actually removed it, instruct me it would be MUCH appreciated.. I don't want to break something... LOL Thanks! Joe