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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    Going to AutoZone now but FYI, I put in a new fuse to B4 and turned the ignition all the way to the last point before starting the engine (so full power to all electonics). I let it sit like that for about 60 seconds and my car is not warm because it sat in the garage all night without running. I turned off the ignition, pulled B4 and it's NOT blown. So then, jpflip, I think this confirms this is very helpful as it must mean it's between the relay and the fan then... I just wanted to do this explicit test now just in case to confirm this as it's very helpful to know it's after the relay.
  2. Silver_TT
    Yes, I think this makes sense becuase only when I tell Durametric to turn on the engine compartment fan do I get the blown fuse. I have tried just plugging in the fuse, turning on the ignition (not > 172F in the engine), and when I pulled the fuse out again I did NOT see it blown. When I get these LED fuses that Ahsai suggested this should be even more clear to be 100% sure this is the case. But this is very useful information to know that B4 is always powered from the power source to the relay. We must be getting close..........
  3. Silver_TT
    Trust me, I can use all the help I can get :) (and be very grateful for it). Thanks Ahsai, you were very helpful on my o2 sensors/cats previously. I saw those smart fuses at AutoZone so I will go get some now. They were right above the regular fuses I bought. jpflip - good to know that this must be between the fan and the relay. I'm assuming the connector (in the 3rd picture in my post #41 above IMG_0978.jpg) runs straight to the relay. So does this really have to be one of 3 things: 1. The fan (which it seems like it's not given our tests) 2. The wire that runs from the fan to that 12-pin connection jpflip wanted to look at last night 3. The wire from the 12-pin connection to the relay (I'm assuming there are no other segments in between, that this runs straight to the relay).
  4. Silver_TT
    Yes, it is B4 that is always blowing. I agree it definitely seems like there is a short somewhere... this is what I was afraid of, it seems like it's in the wiring going deep into the car. The fuse doesn't blow until I tell the car to turn on the fan using Durametric. If I don't tell it to turn on the fan, the fuse does not blow. I had the gearbox taken out and repaired shortly after I got the vehicle, so it's possible that something could have happened while they did that??? But then again I didn't really have a ton of hours logged on the car before then. A long drive home and then a few hours after that. Maybe it's possible something happened to the wiring when they took the gearbox out, but it doesn't really seem like these wires would have anything to do with that. They also did an oil change and put on new tires. What steps can I take now to start to narrow down where the short is?????
  5. Silver_TT
    Ok, here is the plug with the 12 wires. I can understand why you wanted to look at it because it's the harness connection that connects the wires that go up into the spoiler/tail. It looks ok to me. No signs of corrosion or discoloration. See pics attached.
  6. Silver_TT
    I just tested the fan. It seems to spin just fine. Spins real fast and sounds right. jpflip, let me see if I can find this plug you're talking about now. and post a picture of it.
  7. Silver_TT
    OK, i just bought 12 feet of lamp cord at Home Depot. Will test the fan now. Jpflip stated I don't have to worry about which is +/- so I will wire that up now and should know in a few minutes.
  8. Silver_TT
    jpflip, are you talking about the temperature sensor? looks like a long skinny black bottle nipple? i unplugged the connector to it and it looked good on the wire side. I can post a picture if you want to see it, it's easy to pull off.
  9. Silver_TT
    I can do that. One question -- I have a CTek 7002. Doesn't it have a mode where it can actually act as a battery? i wonder if I could use that??? Might be easier than removing the fan if that's possible. If this is possible I will try this now.
  10. Silver_TT
    JFP, 1. I will remove the relay #8. When you say to check both wires for continuity, I can perform this test as I did earlier today -- but which two leads am I going to be using for the test and which specific two wires? 2. I can definitely unplug the fan again, but how exactly can i rig up a set of jumper wires to power the fan independently? For what it's worth I know it will work at least briefly for a second because I've heard it run for half a second before the fuse blows each time. Pardon my ignorance. If it seems like I'm being anal I just want to make sure I'm really clear on these tests I'm running so I don't report back any false information to you guys and belabor this troubleshooting. REALLY apprecaite you guys offering your time and advice !!!!!
  11. Silver_TT
    No need to apologize at all. I need all the smartest folks on this site like you andf JFP's help on this little gremlin. To answer your question it seems that the blades of the fan can turn fairly easily, however it's kind of hard to get my hand in there because the plastic grill is impeding my ability to really reach in there. Is there any other trick? I did not connect the fan directly to the battery. How exactly could I go about doing that?
  12. Silver_TT
    Shoot, no dice. Removed the relay circled in red and replaced it with the relay circled in blue (and left that one with nothing). Every time I try to activate the fan using the Durametric it blows the fuse. The short must be somewhere else. How else can I track this down? Does this just leave the wiring... or, God forbid, a problem with the DME. Electrical problems suck :) Any ideas what I should try next? Anything else I should be doing in the relays before I put that back together?
  13. Silver_TT
    Here's the DME relays panel. Which one am I pulling out? And replacing with which one? Don't want to mess this up and fry my DME. I'm pretty sure it's one of those 3 burned orange colored ones. There's one for the engine purge fan and 2 for the spoiler. That diagram I provided earlier from jpflip may be for the passenger side or something...the numbers don't seem to match up....??? I'm in the panel behind the driver's seat side. Is this definitely correct?
  14. Silver_TT
    Got the parcel trim panel off. If you have the Bose option the face plates need to come off and then you need to unscrew the large silver bolt I have circlued in red above. Now time to swap the relay and see is the fuse blows.....
  15. Silver_TT
    Good job! Hope the information I pointed you to saved you some time. It is tight indeed and if it weren't for this it would be a 15 minute job tops. If you ever have to do it again I bet you can do it just half the time...... definitely not a 3 hour job to do for sure.
  16. Silver_TT
    One other thing... when I'm able to get to the relays and do the swap, assuming for the moment that the fan relay is bad, should I be plugging this into the slot that I took the relay from the spoilers? In other words if this is a bad relay, won't it blow the fuse for the spoilers too? Or would I want to try by taking the relay from the spoilers..... using that for the engine purge fan while leaving its original slot empty (not sure what electrical implications that would have but prefer not to break anything else in the process while testing). Just a thought as I'm trying to think through this. Also, is the relay #8 I'm seeking on the driver's side or passenger's side once I'm able to get this carpeted segment off? I know this is an awefully verbose sequence but hopefully when I'm able to solve this it helps someone else in the future that finds this thread........
  17. Silver_TT
    Trying to get the carpeted cover off behind the rear seats. I popped off the covers over the Bose speakers and see some bolts. There's a big one under each Bose speaker (see attached, circled in red). Anyone know what needs to get unscrewed to pop this off and get to the relays under there......? I also found the following from jpflip which may be helpful to anyone else in the future (see second attachment). It was with respect to something else but gives the numbered layout of the relays.
  18. Silver_TT
    JFP - Regarding your last check of the fan before moving on to the relay, just to be clear I uploaded another photo. The left arrow shows the fan's two leads that I was putting one of the multimeter's leads to. The up arrow shows an area of the fan housing that is metal underneath the plastic cover. I was putting the remaining multimeter's lead to this metal. The multilmeter was reading "1". I tried both leads on the fan, and also the difference combinations of the red/black leads from the multimeter (although I don't believe it should matter and any single combination should achieve an answer to what we wanted to know doing this test). Time to dig into my back seats to try to access the relays and check this same resistance there?
  19. Silver_TT
    hmm.. i was trying to think though this. the fan housing is mostly plastic. when I touch the red or black lead to one of the fan's leads, and then the other of the multmeter's leads to what I think is metal (like in the very center of the fan) I appear to get a "1" reading. Down in my garage looking at this closer now......
  20. Silver_TT
    Thanks for sticking with me on this. As you can see my "greenness" is showing, but fortunately for me so is your patience/persistence. Here are some revised results with the multimeter now down at the 200 setting in the Ω section (see image showing a "01.1" reading with the red and black leads touching each other). REVISED READINGS on the 200 Ω setting: Reading of "01.1" when touching the red/black leads on the fan leads. Reading of "05.4" when touching the red/black leads on the wiring harness that plugs into the fan. Assuming I did this correctly......Correct me if I'm wrong but does this mean the fan is ok and I need to check this same resistance at the relay now next (which I understand to be the next point as we work backwards along the series)?
  21. Silver_TT
    Test #1: CONTINUITY A new fuse is in the fusebox. I have a cheap DT-830B digital multimeter. To test continuity I have plugged the black wire into COM and the red wire into VΩmA. I have the dial set to 2000k on the Ω section (see attached image which shows the settings I have configured, with the red and black not touching anything, therefore the reading is "1"). The results are as follows: Reading of "0" when touching the 2 leads on the fan itself. Reading of "004" when touching the 2 leads on the wiring harness that plugs into the fan.
  22. Silver_TT
    Thanks, ya I saw the logo but just wanted to be sure. Saw the part# on there but wanted to be sure it hadn't been superceded -- doesn't sound like it but Sunset can answer that for me. I also saw 29/07/09 which I'm assuming is a manufacturer date -- therefore this was replaced before and this replacement really isn't that old (< 4yrs). Hopefully there's not something in the electrical system putting stress on it causing it to die early. For now I will leave it unplugged with the new, unblown fuse in the box. JFP - I have a multimeter. Sorry for the required hand-holding but how exactly would I use it to test for the internal short at the fan as you stated? Thanks again...if I can determine this today I can order the part from Sunset and install this week.
  23. Silver_TT
    Ok. I unplugged the harness at the fan in the engine compartment, replaced the fuse with a new one, put the key in the ignition and turned to the last position before starting the motor..... and the fuse did NOT blow. This means it must be the fan correct? Fan part is in pic attached. Made in Italy? Is this an OEM fan? To continue driving should i leave the new fuse in with the fan harness disonnected? Or go back to the way it was with a blown fuse in there and the fan plugged in? Or it doesn't matter? Thanks to both of you...and for such fast replies! You guys are awesome.
  24. Silver_TT
    Thanks. I went to AutoZone and picked up a 5-pack of Cooper Bussman 15A fuses (BP/ATC-15-RP was the part number). The AutoZone website says this is compatible with my vehicle and Cooper Bussman is a reputable company so I'm assuming they should be just fine. However, as soon as I replaced the fuse I heard the engine compartment fan come on for less than a second, then instantly went off. Pulled the fuse and sure enough it's blown. How should I proceed to fix the short at this point? Do I need to replace the engine compartment fan? If so do you have a part # for this and is this pretty straight-forward? I would like to get this sorted ASAP since Summer heat is rapidly approaching.
  25. Silver_TT
    Check out post #49 of the following thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43522-p2096-porsche-fault-code-16-oxygen-sensor-ageing-delay-bank-1/page-3 You can buy those o2 post-cats on Amazon for around $100 each (OEM Bosch). You will need an o2 sensor wrench (or a 22mm open faced wrench if I recall which I found to be a lot better). Replacement is pretty easy. Take off the air filter housing in the engine compartment to access where these plug into the computer. You should be able to unscrew them from the cat from the engine compartment, if I recall (I think I did the pre-cats from underneath the car if I remember). The only tricky part is you have to feel and can't really see from doing it from above in the engine compartment. Conceptually you will find it's a very simple job. The hardest part is there's not a lot of room to work in there and the post cat is sitting on top of the cat's drum which makes it a little ways up there in the exhaust. Post back and let us know how it goes.
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