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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. +1 Sunset Porsche is an excellent site p.s. I see you're in Brooklyn. I used to live in Clinton Hill.
  2. Redline??? That's exactly what ruined my gearbox. It's your car and your money but I don't want something bad to happen to you like it did to me -- you really need to be careful here or this is what you could have in store in your future:
  3. be very careful, i had a gearbox that was destroyed because the previous owner used aftermarket transmission fluid. also Porsche has changed their recommendation over time. last I looked they are now recommending Shell transaxle gear oil , at least for the 996TT's Getrag. this ain't like motor oils where it's "take your pick"..........
  4. Looks like the cams have to be locked on the 5 chain too...that's what I thought. Good lord, be careful what you read on the internet if it's not from a trusted source. LN is def the way to go no one in their right mind would argue that. Lots of horror stories from people that used the Pelican Parts procedure, and many others.... From the PDF that JPF posted: "Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners."
  5. Sorry just saw you have the 5 chain setup. I will defer to JFP or someone that has done that job a million times.
  6. Yes you need to lock the cams. people here are very nice and friendly, this isn’t Rennlist … never feel silly asking questions
  7. Strong work…. Mine also had a lot of broken catalyst inside. The cats are subject to a lot of vibration which I think is a big factor. Glad you got it sorted
  8. Bank 2 is better but not fine. Bank 1 is shot. I had a 2002 C4S and had this exact issue if you do a search you will find a detailed thread. I would replace both since Bank 2 will be toast soon. IMHO cats fail on these cars at this mileage or lower due to the vibration and over time it breaks or otherwise damages the honeycomb inside. The cats are expensive new but you may be able to find a good fair from a low mileage doner vehicle from like a scrap yard. I would never buy parts for my car from a scrap yard but for certain parts it cannot hurt your car. For example I bought a $2000 alcantara headliner for $100 that was literally like new and you can do the same thing with the cats. After you have this fixed you should note that it can take 100 miles or more of driving before your readiness states are reset. So just keep that in mind when you need to do your smog test. Good luck!.........
  9. Strong work! Met my indy through PCA too.... can't even remember it's been so long, I think he did my first track inspection.
  10. I would try to find a good indy near you who has knowledge in Porsche (usually VW/Audi guys will do pretty well on this platform too since there is much overlap). I have learned my car inside and out and have the knowledge to do literally almost any job on this car. But I don't have the tools and quite honestly at this point I don't want to invest a lot of money in them when I have an indy who I know is better than 99% of dealer Porsche techs but only charges $100/hour, and he has all the tools in the world. Unless you want to spin wrenches professionally or just like to collect tools for fun, IMHO at this point of where cars are I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to invest a ton of money in specialized tools. I would love to have a SnapOn DTac because it's an amazing tool..........but odds are I will probably only need to use it once or twice more in my lifetime. I provide all parts and fluids (OE from Sunset) and he just does the labor. So in this sense my car is "dealer serviced" -- it's the exact same thing except you don't get your face ripped off by the Porsche dealer.
  11. You could consider using a high quality oil like Driven DT40 with 5K mile OCIs. You can buy it at advance auto parts using coupons for the 10 packs (not single quarts), when it's available. It comes and goes, I stock up and check every few months if I need more. Like JFP is saying, one problem with running cheap oils even at short OCIs is they shear at high temperatures turning the oil into something closer to water than a lubricant.
  12. If you see a torn boot replace it immediately. The difference is if you ignore it eventually it will get expensive and things the CV joint will fail. You will know because you will hear a knocking sound or clicking as I mentioned .... or if it gets bad it can affect suspension and drive experience (vibration, etc). The boot is very cheap. Every time my car is up on the rack I always look at them to be sure no tears because if you catch it early it's cheap. But if you sleep on it, this gets expensive fast.
  13. On my Audi Q5 2.0T I started to hear a clicking in the front suspension. Inspected and found grease slung out from the ripped boot .... it was too late, dirt and debris had gotten in there and destroyed the CV joint. Now I watch it like a hawk and caught the other side, which happened very shortly after, while it was only the boot which is cheap and easy. Anyway as soon as you see grease I would fix it. Preferably you should inspect your boots regularly. On some of these cars the boot has been revised to be a bit tougher and more durable..............
  14. This moderator's response is 100% spot on. Your engine couldn't maintain the proper level of crankcase vacuum. This is why for engines burning oil (not because the oil cap is off) one of the first and easiest things to do is check the crankcase vacuum to see if you have an issue with the AOS, which is tasked with regulating the crankcase vacuum to spec.
  15. I doubt you will find anyone outside of the dealer with a PIWIS. While I have seen a few that have it, it's too cost prohibitive for most independent shops (something like ~$10K/month). When you need access to a PIWIS you usually just need to bite the bullet and go to the dealer.
  16. What kind of problems did they have? Don't want to speculate but if they changed the ATF and subsequently had issues it's either pure coincidence or possibly they didn't use OE ATF or used aftermarket filter/gasket/parts. There's really no reason changing the ATF should cause any problems at all if you use OE parts. Los of issues with using aftermarket fluids.... I had a 996TT gearbox that was damaged from the former owner, a spoiled little brat, using aftermarket and lying about it taking it out of the "dealer only serviced" records. Don't know what kind of transmission your BMW has but maybe at 55K miles it's not ready to be serviced yet by the book. My Audi Q5 2.0T is 75K for example per the manufacturer. Since changing the ATF and filter both with OE parts a year ago I have had zero issues. I sleep better at night since I saw the filter that came out and it didn't look perfect. I'm planning on keeping this car forever though, so if I have to pay extra to take care of it I don't spend even a second thinking twice about it. That's also probably why my cars never have problems though.
  17. I change the ATF and filter every 75K miles for my ZF 8HP transmission. It is one of the best automatic transmissions I have ever driven by far, it feels like a true double clutch, the technology is absolutely outstanding...... but you have to take care of it. A certified Porsche tech told you that? Makes me think even less of them than I already did....... One thing people tend to get confused on is sometimes these will be billed as "lifetime ATF" or don't show-up on a service schedule. But that is only because the auto manufacturer like Porsche is talking about the lifetime of the warranty they will be on the hook for. After the warranty is up with them they really don't care what happens. When you contact the manufacturer directly, ZF in my case, a well known German auto giant, they will tell you to change it every 75K miles. I believe the manufacturer of the transmission since they made it. Also a lot of people are cheap and don't change the filter, which I find to be very short sighted. They complain it's too expensive but it's a small fraction of the cost of a new or used replacement transmission. Many German made transmissions by the likes of Getrag, ZF, etc are known for being outstanding quality if you take care of them properly. Also one last bit of advice having been burned: I would only use OE ATF.
  18. And you did clean that indeed, looks like a new engine, great job. I just cleaned my engine two weeks ago and it looks great but doesn't look anywhere near as good as that lump does. I used rubber gloves and no-scratch pads too.....but I did not get anywhere near that level of clean, wow. Always makes me happy to see a car brought back to life like this.....I'll never understand how someone let their car get to that state in the first place. I would only run water (the purest I could find) in my coolant system in a pinch, like if I had a coolant loss on the side of a highway and only had water but no coolant. As soon as I got home I would flush and refill. Suspension and other wear items should be a walk in the park at this point.......clearly you've put in some hard work. Great thread, thanks for sharing.
  19. The cost the dealer quoted is very expensive but that's what is expected from a stealer. Not taking new customers is a bit weird but being booked out a couple of weeks or so is pretty normal. My indy and I have a great relationship and he might be able to sneak me in for an emergency...... but when I schedule work with him it's usually 2-3 weeks out. Good shops are busy. This is usually fine as I try to kill my problems before they get too bad so usually nothing is so urgent it can't wait a couple of weeks. Gives me enough time to order the parts from Sunset, have them shipped, and organize everything to make sure nothing was missed. Once you establish a good relationship with someone you might find it easier to schedule things with them.
  20. He's not misinforming people. His statements are corroborated by industry and academic research. If you are interested Lake Speed, Charles Navarro, and Jake Raby have done a lot of publishing on this topic. Not all oils are equal just because they are on an approved list and in fact if you look at virgin oil analysis they vary widely in their composition. Oil companies have to pay to be listed and the process isn't as objective, or "formal" as you put it, as you might think. Viscosity is just one of many variables. I started studying this about a year ago when I discovered my timing chain was severely "stretched" and I can tell you that I have come to the same conclusion independently. Anyway, for all the people with knowledge about cars on the internet John has probably exhibited the least self promotion of anyone I have ever seen (he owned a shop but I couldn't even tell you what the name was because he never mentioned it to drum up any business). So that comment is not valid if not laughable. If you've been around long enough what's special about JPF is he's not just another mechanic that thinks he knows better. He only did the mechanic thing as a late act in his career; he was a suit and tie organic chemist who happened to be good at working on Porsches. If you've been around here long enough you have probably seen that every person that tried to take him deep on something came up dry.....every time. His reasoning is always sound and adds up no matter how far you drill and tribology is no different. If you keep reading and have a scientific mind (ie. you're not the type of person that enters a conversation with their mind already made up) I'm confident you will change your view. If you ever saw what goes on at the top of every Fortune 500 company I can promise you they are driven by bean counting and marketing. To think otherwise is either naïve or maybe you have never worked for one of these companies. Happy Memorial Day weekend
  21. If it makes you feel better it's not just in the water down there. People are like that here too. I could give you a million examples but it seems to have gotten worse in the current environment where they are all very busy so there is less incentive to care and retain business I suppose. I'm in the middle of having my bathroom redone and my wife is an architect so we have "inside information". You still have to watch people like a hawk and understand every single little aspect and decision of the job, just like working on a car. Else you're leaving it up to someone else and most people aren't going to treat it like their own.... And based on the things I have read about most people and what they are going to do to their cars, I am completely horrified
  22. Could depend on the type of tire, where the damage to the tire is, etc. I actually just had a nail go into the tire of my Audi Q5 2.0T TFSI last week or so and it's in the outer edge so not repairable. I opted to replace all 4 tires to not have any mismatching and for safety since my wife and kids mostly drive the car. Would hate to have something bad happen, God forbid, because I wanted to save a few hundred bucks. Try to invest some time in finding a good indy. My method is I have a good indy but provide OE parts and fluids to him which I mostly buy from Sunset by VIN (even my indy who has 25+ years on VW/Porsche/Audi doesn't have access to dealer tools). This leaves very little room for error and I tee up the job for him by dividing the parts up into each job making it very easy with no room for error. I'm just trying to make it easy for him, which should help me out too. I also leave him very brief notes of anything specific since it could be another guy doing the actual work, not the owner I talked to. I also learn about the job in detail so I can talk to him about it and make sure I understand the approach and what will be done. I spent a lot of time learning the engine so I can do this without wasting his time... on one hand I'm kind of anal... on the other hand he's told me he appreciates it.
  23. not all dealers are the same..... i have even seen the same dealer change considerably over time (mostly due to new management, makes sense). another dealer in your area might give you a different response. My personal opinion is there's not too much I need a dealer for. Recalls, an ECU update or something like that. Otherwise I'm only using them to do like $50 tire patches since they are 5 mins from my house. For everything else a good indy with OE parts will be approximately half the dealer price. You should definitely invest in trying to find a good indy.
  24. So things changed and it's all online now but you just need to create an account and have them apply the discount terms to your account. Seems you need to get the "right person" to do this... the first person told me the same thing you got from Luke.. but then more recently they told me it was no problem to modify my account for the same discount I have always gotten (dates back to Renn Tech) when I asked them about this and pointed out I have bought tens of thousands of dollars of equipment from them over 20 years. They were super nice about it just like they always have been, he said they are just going through some bumps having to do everything online, they have a ton of volume, and had some personnel turn over. Still a great place to buy parts. Anyway, just stick with it as far as getting the discount terms applied and once they adjust your account you are good to go forever......
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