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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. One other thing I find interesting is it seems like Porsche has changed the convention to the VW-style naming convention for sensors, etc in the newer series like 991.2. G203, G204, etc... this is VW/Audi style language.
  2. You guys are correct about ignition angle, different OEMs refer to it differently and I had forgotten this is what the variable is called in Durametric. You should also check the Camshaft Position Deviations, which is effectively the angular deviation from what the vane cell adjustor is supposed to be advancing or retarding the timing. Generally the timing is locked in the fully retarded position to start and then is advanced by the DME using oil pressure and a solenoid. A PIWIS can tell if the car has been tuned but there is no way that I know of in Durametric. If Durametric has a field for the number of times the ECU has been flashed as some do, this could be an indicator. If it was tuned, Porsche or the tuner should be able to set it back to stock. For your question about o2 sensors, are you looking at the precat or postcat value? The post cat value should not "follow" the precat value. For my naturally aspirated 996 here is an old thread of mine with relevant notes, I would think it should apply to the turbo as well overall: Going back and reading that thread of what I did 10 years ago is pretty funny... I never would buy the O2 sensors on Amazon now like I did back then. I am wiser now... but also older 😉
  3. Correction to my post above. Your numbers look similar to this: Tests WWW.SYSTEMSC.COM Automotive Electronics for BMW, Porsche, Mercedes Benz, and Asian vehicles Your 996 numbers are very close (appears to be for all 996s both NA and turbo, which makes sense I think): Porsche 986/996 MAF & DME System Data RPM MAF (volts) Mass Flow Ignition Timing Load (ms) Pulse (ms) Idle 1.30 15 5.0 1.10 2.6 1000 1.35 20 10 1.20 2.6 2000 1.70 40 23 1.20 2.7 3000 1.90 60 32 1.20 2.7 4000 2.11 80 36 1.20 2.6
  4. Thank you, I think you are right. The degrees make me wonder if it is a reference to the vane cell camshaft adjustor's position as this is also closely related to the ignition timing (it's job is to advance or retard it). I expect that it would be fully advanced, somewhere near 40 degrees, at WOT or high RPMs when the timing gets advanced. The numbers sound normal to me except if this is the case the 6 degrees at idle is too much.
  5. Please use a Porsche-specific scanner. Kidding!!! If you can't set it to english I can have my wife translate all of this stuff for us 🙂 It's telling you in German that there is an issue with the parking sensors. kurzschluss basically means short circuit on the G204. The G203 and G206 are getting no signal and the G204 and G205 it is saying has a defect. Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203) Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Left (G204) Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Right (G205) Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Right (G206)
  6. I don't know what an ignition angle is. Do you mean the cam deviation? That is measured at idle with the engine at operating temperature. 6 degrees would be pretty high, how many miles are on your engine? It's not common but the Mezger can stretch chains as I have discussed with Jake Raby in the past.
  7. Sounds like you went to two people but at least one of them is not professional. Seek a mechanic who has experience on this platform. If you think it's bore scoring the cheapest and easiest way it can be confirmed is with an oil analysis. That engine is Alusil so that would be my first concern. If you have scoring I would switch to Driven FR50. Also I would change the oil frequently because you will get more contamination which will exacerbate the problem.
  8. As you can see in your screenshot, the two reverse gears have different ratios. This is particularly useful, for example, when on snow or ice.
  9. Had the exact same car and the cause was the drive cable needed to be replaced. Agree with Loren though, check that first and if that is not the case you should be able to inspect it. I unbolted the passenger seat from the floor to fix it, if I recall they are torx.
  10. battery vent tube....? I can see the little hole there it looks like it should be plugged into
  11. I have no experience with the electronic brake fluid tester in your picture, only the OTC pen tester, so I cannot opine except the following. The fact that it's saying 1.5% moisture content for brand new fluid -- it either isn't very accurate (most likely) or the new fluid you bought is contaminated with moisture. I see they have different colors in your measuring strips but I don't know what % that translates to. New fluid should not have high moisture content, this is the whole point of replacing the fluid to get the moisture content down.
  12. I have a CTek 7002 that I use all the time and have used this model for about the last 20 years. Like JFP said at certain stages it definitely gets very hot on the bottom. Also don't worry about hot long it takes to get to the completed stage. I have an AGM battery (Optima DH6) that is perfectly healthy, a few years old, and was not drained at all. Periodically every few months for good measure I will put it on the CTek and it always takes quite a while to run though to completed. I have left it plugged in many times went I went to Europe for a month or longer. This device is very "smart", it knows a lot about the battery you hook it up to and exactly how to charge it.
  13. It wasn't easy for me but luck was on my side that another forum member happened to be selling them and they were an exact match. I see some on FleaBay.... 😬 You always have the option to go OE and get a discount from Sunset Porsche but ya it will make your wallet easier to sit on as JFP would say. You could also get aftermarket cats but they are a PITA with emissions and can make your ECU code and all sorts of other nonsense.
  14. Not sure, call LA dismantlers and see what they have to say. It has been a long time ago but back then I think I sold the used cats to a scrap yard for around $200 and bought used cats from a forum member for around $500. New ones were around $2K at the time. Certainly metals prices fluctuate it will flow through to the parts price. It can be hit or miss, if you buy from some random scrap yard you won't really know much about them. That being said though mine were bad because the honeycomb had broken (something you could physically verify) I suspect due to sustained vibration.
  15. Yes, those signals really tell you everything you need to know when coupled with the OBD diagnostic guidance provided by JFP. Problem is readiness states can take quite a number of miles driving on these cars. Maybe you could find a used set of cats, which is what I did. Possibly from a low mileage wreck, etc.......
  16. Because it's bad but not THAT bad yet. Look at page 2 of this post: Bank 1 = toast .... Bank 2 = not far behind
  17. How much oil did you add? if you really need a new turbocharger just buy one and have an indy do it. The turbocharger for your car is like $2k, don’t let the dealer scam you for $13k that is ridiculous
  18. Never a great approach to use the "parts cannon" rather than true diagnostics. You can't use a generic OBD scan tool with these cars, don't waste your time. Buy a Durametric which is able to read the proprietary codes and give you something of meaning when you are diagnosing issues. I also suggest buying OE parts from Sunset Porsche using your VIN to ensure correct fitment rather than trying to guess that a VW Toureg part is the same. Lastly, you may want to check your battery. I have seen a marginal battery cause all sorts of weird electrical gremlins. Just about the only thing I would do as far as throwing parts at it would be to replace the battery with a high quality AGM if the battery is aged.
  19. That's a big difference between the first two estimates -- likely they are not apples to apples. And, ya, it is normal for the collision department to send the car to the dealer for the recalibration. That price sounds about right since dealer rates have gone up and it's likely a 2+ hour procedure to perform the calibration.
  20. From the looks of it I don't think the paint will peel or worsen in the near future....... maybe if you don't get it fixed eventually it would but I don't think that's going to get materially worse on its own anytime soon. Once they do the repair they can make that look like it never happened. Whoever you have do the repair, it never hurts to explicitly ask/tell them to recalibrate the sensors back to 0 deviation.
  21. All shops are very busy right now. My indy is scheduling work 6+ weeks out. The warning messages aren't normal. Do you use VCDS? You can check the lane assist faults but your dynamic angle offsets are too large. There is a static offset which is the initial position at calibration and then dynamic offsets from that -- the dynamic offsets have a tolerance that is somewhere around 7 degrees. For example this -7.51 tripped a fault: And looked like this after the dealer recalibrated (2 hours labor, insurance paid for it): The dynamic angles will change as the car's computer samples them periodically. My lane assist would intermittently work as that dynamic angle was close to the 7 degrees trigger and would sort of bounce around near that 7 degrees, sometimes over, sometimes under. You have to force them to recalibrate it after an accident. My wife had a minor accident a year or two ago and when I picked up the car and used VCDS I saw that they had not recalibrated the angle offset back to 0 (and went back in told them and left the car there for another day for them to do it like they should have without me having to check). This is probably similar to what happened in your case.
  22. This is what insurance is for. I would have a Porsche certified body shop fix it. You won't be able to touch it up by yourself and having a 3rd party shop do it is more risky for several reasons. The sensors may need to be recalibrated if your bumper moved at all. For example my Audi Q5 has lane change assist and there are radar sensors all over the car that are calibrated. If they move because the bumper has moved or been hit, even by a very small amount (I forget the amount it's like 7 degrees), it can cause the system to become inoperable. Paint job for that is typical to take a week.
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