Silver_TT

This is what insurance is for.  I would have a Porsche certified body shop fix it.

You won't be able to touch it up by yourself and having a 3rd party shop do it is more risky for several reasons.  The sensors may need to be recalibrated if your bumper moved at all.  For example my Audi Q5 has lane change assist and there are radar sensors all over the car that are calibrated.  If they move because the bumper has moved or been hit, even by a very small amount (I forget the amount it's like 7 degrees), it can cause the system to become inoperable.

Paint job for that is typical to take a week.

My Audi Q5 has the ZF 8HP and that’s correct, there is a fluid for the gearbox and a separate different oil for the transfer case.

You checked the cylinders?  If it had bore scoring you would see it on the cylinder walls.  The specifics can vary depending on if you have a 997.1 or 997.2 but generally the scoring is going to start from the bottom so it makes the most sense to go in through the sump rather than the spark plug holes.

This video may help:

Looks sick!!!  Love the chalk color........

Assuming you already checked the easy things like crankcase vacuum (AOS), drop the sump and use a borescope the inspect the cylinders from the bottom.  The cylinders may have bore scoring.

Someone over on Rennlist bricked their transmission recently playing with a PIWIS clone.  Avoid........

On 8/14/2022 at 8:24 AM, Stevie B said:

PS Ill share the process of changing the timing chains and resealing the dreaded covers.

Please do

One final thought is that Lee Jenkins of Hartech in the UK could also be an excellent resource.  I have seen his work and it is outstanding, he is very very good.

JFP spot on as always.  Raby is going to be the best source for this.  If you paid for the video I would contact jake.  He’s usually a very nice guy when the questions aren’t stupid (which is why he left Rennlist)

Sounds like you initially had the wrong group size.  As far as CCA goes my experience with german cars is replace with same or higher CCA (never lower than factory battery’s spec).

AGM has several advantages over lead acid with basically no drawbacks except for slightly higher cost.

If you use a battery maintainer/charger I would recommend getting one that is "smart" (has a build in computer/electronics to keep me from doing stupid things) and for AGM batteries specifically.  For example I have owned the CTek 7002 forever, before I even knew what a AGM battery was, and it has SNOWFLAKE mode, aka "the 6 pack", for AGMs (icon literally looks like a 6 pack of beer).

Maybe it's not inoperable but it is blocking the drain hole and that is certainly not advisable as the moderator is saying.  If that was my car and the tether is causing such problems, I would just cut the tether.  All else equal that is a better solution than blocking the drain hole.

Gbox… call Stan.  He rebuilt my 996TT gearbox good as new

^THIS

Gotten tons of good advice from JFP over the years but this is one of the best bits.  Super useful to have for a Porsche engine, or really any engine and especially the newer DFI engines that run higher vacuum spec levels.  All you have to know is the spec vacuum for your engines....

I built this exactly like JFP says to help a friend track down an oil consumption issue and to show folks in the Audi community that a PCV is doing more than regulating crankcase vacuum (it has several non-return valves and a combi valve which can fail, which can lead to increased crankcase pressure and routing too much blow-by into the turbo).

Keeping an eye on your crankcase vacuum is very easy to do, taking literally under 1 minute 

Thank you for following up and posting the solution.

Why?  I understand that you never want to rotate the engine even if it is slightly out of time but if everything is in time why can’t to be rotated backward?  Thanks for the info

Call Sunset or I recently posted a thread from Rennlist with a supplier who sells it by smaller quantities.  UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should aftermarket fluid be used.

It is not described as Audi fluid, it has its own Porsche part #.  Sunset also sells Audi parts (they are Audi Beaverton) and the part number is completely different.  Do not try to take shortcuts thinking the fluids may be the exact same as the consequences are very punitive.  It's not worth the risk to save a few dollars IMHO and I know first hand having had to rebuild a gearbox due to the previous owner lying and using aftermarket fluid.

Welcome back.  Nice looking car.  I like that the interior features a screen that is built in and not a large ipad-looking screen that sticks out.

Yes there is a screen on the scavenger oil pump 

p.s. JFP's name is John outside of the metaverse

Possibly from an old since replaced RMS that someone sloppy drilled holes for the removal screws in then it got chewed up inside the engine... so there is a new RMS in there now with spring intact.  Yes, agree, the RMS was updated but this is still one of the most common leaking points on this engine.

I see but how did it need a quart top up in 1,662 miles if you said it only burns a quart every 3,000 miles?  Maybe you only added half a quart?

Either way, mixing in a lower viscosity oil would explain, at least in part, the thinning of the oil... still seems pretty thin overall given that the majority was 15W/50.

FWIW Blackstone's fuel dilution measurement isn't that reliable from what I have seen

Is that Mobil1 15w-50?  13.73 is thin for a 15W50, I agree, especially after such short mileage.  My 0w40 has that viscosity even after 5K OCIs.  Overall nothing jumps out -- wear metals aren't very high but the OCI is very short.

p.s. I saw on Rennlist, it looks like the tension spring from the RMS.

And to be perfectly clear, we are only having some fun no one means any disrespect to you.

You can lead a horse to water............

Spring from the valve stem seal?