bar10dah

3.3 bar with engine idling. 3.7 bar ignition on engine off, activated by durametric. Then with the pump running, engine off, count off 30 seconds or less the pump should fill a 1 quart container.

48 psi (3.3 bar) - engine idling

56 psi (3.9 bar) - ignition on, engine off, pump activated w/ Durametric

52 psi (3.6 bar) - ignition on/off, engine off, pump off

If you are near sea level I would guess a normal reading is between 17 and 18 inches of mercury.

16 in/hg at idle, 171 MSL

Also can you please post your fuel trims (FRA and TRA) from Durametric (you don't need to turn the car on to get this)

1.02 Range 2 Cylinder 1-3 (FRA)

1.02 Range 2 Cylinder 4-6 (FRA2)

0.32 Range 1 Cylinder 1-3 (TRA)

0.34 Range 1 Cylinder 4-6 (TRA2)

I did search and read through that thread, however the symptoms my car has are slightly different which could affect what the actual cause of the problem is.

I have nearly the exact same symptoms as you. But that's okay, as these symptoms point to a laundry list of root causes. So, your situation may not be exactly like mine. And that's even more evident as you read through all the previous threads about this issue. Persons A, B, and C solved their problems with these P-codes with solutions X, Y, and Z... The most common solution has always been some sort of vacuum leak, such as an AOS bellows tube or oil filler tube. However, others have solved their problems with MAFs or O2 sensors.

Still, a lot of good information from that thread I posted and the links within it. Such as, from one of the links, you'll notice that this code is a result of reaching maximum enrichment at or near an idle state. So, if the car doesn't spend much time at idle, it won't set a CEL. Case in point, I just drove nearly 1,700 miles last week, and the only time I got a CEL was when I was in stop and go traffic with extended idling. Hundreds and hundreds of miles of straight interstate driving and no CEL. Of course, this was with my particular problem. May not be the same for your car. As they say, "your mileage may vary."

Good luck with your troubleshooting and let us know how you do. If the mechanic tells you of a specific part to replace, come back here and one of us can help provide a DIY if you want to save some money on labor and parts costs.

Far be it for me to ever suggest to anyone to do a search for the information they're looking for. But, when the thread you start is nearly the exact same title as a thread only a few threads down the list on the main page... I just gotta laugh. And, I guess I'm beginning to understand all the old timers' frustrations. :)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32106-code-p1124-p1126-p0446/

Brand new gas cap with a good seal. The old one had a bunch of little cracks.

Went to Harbor Freight today. The A/C manifold test kit was $49.45 with tax. Unbeknownst to me, my 20% off coupon expired five days ago. :( So I decided to come home and order the Actron CP7838 from Sears, as it was only $42.34 with tax/shipping after a coupon I had. Also added an Actron vacuum gauge so I can check the intake manifold vacuum.

I'll order the correct fitting directly from Actron tomorrow, as I wasn't able to find it online.

I also ordered the fuel pressure valve from Pelican. Most of what I've read about testing the fuel pressure at this port says you must replace this valve. Although, I've seen a few posts where the valve wasn't replaced and didn't cause any issues. However, I don't want to take any chances with fuel + hot engines.

I should get the parts in a week or two and will report back what I find. From the links above, fuel pressure should be 43.5 to 58 psi when pump is activated by Durametric? How about intake manifold vacuum? How many inches of vaccum am I looking for?

Have you tested fuel pressure & quantity, also fuel pressure regulator?

Easy to do, just get the right tool for the job!

http://www.renntech....ressure-tester/

http://www.renntech....298#entry204298

I can try that! Thanks for the tip. If I can't find the Actron fuel tester (from the first link) locally, I can stop by Harbor Freight and pick up the A/C tester (from the second link). I did find the Actron CP7838 fuel tester at Sears for $40.04 plus $7.75 shipping, so I can go that route too, but would need to find the correct fitting. Appears the only place to get 0180-000-1299, the right angle large schrader adapter, is from Actron for $3.32 plus shipping. I'm guessing it's better to buy the Actron vs the HF A/C tester?

.

What's your intake vacuum? The gauges are cheap, and it's easy to pull an intake hose to test with.

I'm guessing the vacuum gauges can be had at a local auto parts store or Harbor Freight? I seem to remember reading a post where someone fabricated an old oil filler cap to fit the connection for the vacuum tester. Glad I kept my old oil filler cap, if I have to do the same thing.

Nope, that didn't solve it. :(

Not #9, but #10 you mean, the check valve?

Good work if that solves it.

Crap, yes! Thanks for catching my error. The part pictured is #10 from the diagram in post 12, above.

Still not sure if this was the root cause of my problem. Putting everything back together, thought about another way to route one of the vacuum lines, to try to keep it from rubbing/resting against the hot engine block. As I try to pull the connector off the vacuum reservoir (part #16), I guess I applied too much lateral force and snapped the nozzle off. New $33 vacuum reservoir ordered from the local dealer and will be here on Thursday. Depending on the rain we're forecasted for, I may have to wait until the weekend to install it and get the car back together. I'll post my results, either way. After reading probably close to 100 threads while trying to research my problem, I hate it when someone doesn't come back to post if what they tried fixed the problem or not. :(

#9, 10, and 18 were replaced today. I was able to blow air *both* ways through #9, a one way check valve. Here are pics of #9:

1,667 total miles from my two day trip. CEL only came on when driving around in the city. All highway driving results in no codes. Strangely enough though, driving through an hour of stop-and-go Chicago traffic didn't cause the CEL to come on.

Are you replacing because it's leaking? If so, the reservoir may still be fine. I thought I had a cracked reservoir, ended up being the grommet that fits between the reservoir and the filler tube had gotten knocked *into* the tank. Took it all apart, fished the grommet out, reinstalled it correctly, and no more leaks. :)

Hope your solution was as simple (and at no cost) as mine. Good luck!

#9, 10, and 18 were ordered today. Should be in on Wednesday.

Drove my Boxster 850 miles today. CEL only came on once, when I had to get off the interstate 173 miles into my trip and do the stop and go dance through a four way stop sign. It was my dreaded P1124 and P1126 again. Reset the CEL and got back on the interstate. Went the rest of my trip without the CEL coming on again. Seems like the only time those codes get set is when my car is at idle. After resetting my CEL, went 680 miles without a single CEL. Only pulling off the interstate to gas up or grab food, with minimal idling.

Short answer, no.

I took it into Porsche a couple weeks ago, requesting a smoke test. After about 20 mins, the mechanic came out and brought me back. He said he can hear the leak coming from under the passenger side intake. He then started the car and let it idle. He then turned the oil filler cap to open it just a bit, and immediately there was a hissing sound. Sticking my head in the engine bay a bit, I could definitely hear the hissing sound more pronounced from the area the mechanic said it was in. So the mechanic said I didn't need a smoke test, just pull out the passenger side intake and look for either a cracked line or test the valves under there to make sure they're operating correctly. I didn't find any broken lines, but I did replace all the 4mm lines anyways. The check valve (#22) going to the intake boot was good. I couldn't test the shut-off valve (#15), so I just replaced it. The only valves I didn't replace is the change-over valve (#18) and the check valve (#10) that goes into the cylinder head. I'm going to order those two tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. If not, back to the Porsche dealer for the smoke test.

In this photo, I replaced #15, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, and 27. This is the area the sound is coming from, all under the passenger side intake manifold. 11, 13, and 16 don't appear to have any cracks. 9, 10, and 15 are next on my list to replace.

The colored arrows was just me trying to learn how the air flow worked. I determined the red lines to be the vacuum, originating from the air intake boot. And the blue lines the ambient air from the Secondary Air Injection system.

Replaced the MAF, AOS, lower AOS tube, oil filler cap, gas cap, both oil filler tubes in the engine bay, all those 4mm vacuum lines under the passenger side air intake manifold, the SAI shut-off valve, both pre-cat O2 sensors... I still have P1124 and P1126.

As far as I know, the only thing I haven't checked is the fuel system. Although, I do have a new fuel filter. Is there anything else I can check?

I think this is a pretty neat service as well: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/ownerservices/certificateofauthenticity/

I had this code also. I pulled the top connection off the EVAP canister and blew compressed air through it. That code hasn't returned yet.

I had oil on the top of my engine too. Wasn't sure where it was coming from, as I apparently also have a vacuum leak I'm troubleshooting. Thought maybe it could be from that.

I bought both sections of the oil filler tube that's in the engine bay. After pulling most everything off the top of my engine, found the bolt under the alternator which holds the oil filler tube to the engine, was loose. Took several turns to tighten it. Also, the other end which connects to the rear firewall, had a piece of the pipe "tucked" in as it was fitted to the tube on the firewall, also creating a leak. Replaced both sections of my oil filler tube. Hope it solves my oil leak problem.

Let me give you a hand...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/123-front-trunk-microswitch-replacement/

Gavinmead, as this post is nearly six years old, and you only have 12 total posts, are you still around?

Replaced the MAF, replaced the AOS, also replaced the oil filler cap and gas cap. I'm still getting P1124 P1126 and P0446. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks (without a smoke machine) in any hose I could reach. And I can't find any cracks in the oil filler tube (where do cracks usually form on the oil filler tube? and, which half of it, the half that attaches to the engine or the half that goes into the trunk area and has the flex part on it?).

I really didn't find a good thread that talks about testing the charcoal tester. How do I go about doing that?

Also, for others with P0446, it was recommended to blow compressed air through the vent line. Anyone have a snapshot of the line I need to do that to? I'm just not sure which.

I've documented my troubleshooting process here, if you need more information.

I sure could use some help on this. I've read through countless posts here and on other forums and have done most what I could and still no resolution to my problem. I'm just out of ideas...

Thanks Loren, I did find your exact reply here in many other posts about these codes. Thanks for always being there to help everyone!

I've done the troubleshooting that I could, based on the other threads. I'll play around more with the oil filler tube to see if I can tell if there are any leaks there. In the mean time, a new MAF is on it's way. I'll order new brass fittings/o-rings (and try to find a tester) for the fuel test if that doesn't pan out. Otherwise, I'll try to find someone local that can do a leak test.

Even though my P0446 hasn't reappeared yet, I'll look up how to troubleshoot the EVAP system. I tried activating it with Durametric, but couldn't hear any clicking/engaging, so perhaps I do have a problem with that system. Or, I just couldn't hear it working.

Okay, so here's some contradicting info.

Durametric (Bosche DME Motronic 5.2.2) says:

P1124 Oxygen sensing range 1 Cylinder (1-3)

P1126 Oxygen sensing range 1 Cylinder (4-6)

Bentley (Table b. DME M 5.2.2 DTCs) says:

P1124 Fuel pump relay output stage

P1126 Oxygen sensing adaptation, lower load range, cyl. 1-3

What gives?

UPDATE: I asked Durametric which was accurate. They said their information is accurate and the Bentley is wrong. Given that quite a few posts on Boxster forums also confirm that the Durametric data is correct, I'll go with that! Guess I'll just pen & ink change my Bentley. :)

Bump! As I have these codes now too. :(

Started with P1126 on my '99 Boxster a couple weeks ago. Sometimes upon starting, the RPMs will rev up and down then stall. Occasional strong exhast smell upon shutdown and getting out of the car. I've searched for this code (originally searched P1126, now searched P1126, P1124, and P0446) on this forum and a few others and followed the troubleshooting steps the best I could without having to buy new parts yet:

1) Cleaned MAF

2) Visually checked for leaks (looked for cracks, loose connections, etc)

3) Oil filler cap o-ring appears intact and cap isn't difficult to remove when engine is running

4) Gas cap is new

5) J tube and intake tubes have a slight amount of oil in them, more than a mist, but not dripping wet

Yesterday, filled up the car, drove 1.5 miles and parked overnight. Next day, get code P0446. Attributed to the possibility that this new code was due to a full fuel tank. Reset codes and drove 30 miles roundtrip with a five hour stop in between. On the last mile coming home, got a CEL. Codes this time are P1124 and P1126.

I was ready to order a MAF, but now that I have P1124 and P1126, from what I've been reading, more likely an intake air leak and not a MAF?

I just did this job this weekend. Great write-up! Easy to follow. Also agree that the space where you need to engage the torx screws is *very* tight! Almost felt like a contortionist, trying to get both hands up there in order to screw/unscrew the actuator into place.

Request code for s/n: X5018630, please.

Model of radio please?

Whoops! Sorry, thought you only needed the serial.

Becker CDR 220

Type 4462

Thanks!