Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Bruce in Philly

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bruce in Philly

  1. Thanx, I should have mentioned that I replaced the links a few months ago. It improved as some kind of the noise stopped but another is still there. All OEM. I am just going to order those control arms and replace them. My experience with my Boxster and the trouble the dealer had in diagnosing them before they had experience points me there. Peace Bruce in Philly
  2. With my Boxster S, it was the lateral arms... the ones that goes front to back. In the 197K miles of ownership, I think I replaced at least all of them twice and a few three times. My 2009 C2S has a clunking/rattle in the right rear. I had it up on jacks and could not find it. I checked the three bolts on the top of the struts, I put a tire iron in there and twisted and wedged and no joint/bushing moved more than the others. I am very sure it is a control arm. So, unless someone in Philly has some chassis ears they can lend me for a day, I want to just replace the most common offender. 997 331 043 01 So, which rear control arm goes first? Anyone know the torque values for this part? Peace Bruce in Philly
  3. 2009 C2S, 50K miles. This is an odd one as I have not found anyone who heard of this. When I pull the key out of the ignition, the steering wheel lock does not "thunk". I can turn the wheel without lock. This only happens intermittenly, and usually will engage if I push the key back in, and pull it right out again. I don't have to turn the key to get it to work. It does this with both keys, and I put new batteries in them just in case. Last week, the lock just would not engage even after re-starting the car, banging on the column with my fist... cursing. Then it just worked...... Some times, when it did not engage, I would hit the lock button on the key and it would drop. Othertimes, not. My indy replaced the ignition switch but that did nothing. Any ideas? I am worried that by not locking, it is also leaving some electrical systems turned on, otherwise I wouldn't care.... or should I? Peace Bruce in Philly
  4. 2009 C2S 50K miles I poured some water on the closed roof and water drained into the car from two places around the panel. (It actually seeps in everywhere but two, two inche lines poured in unabated.) Any tips? Questions: - What brand/type of solvent should I use? - Where to I apply the adhesive to? The leading metal edge or at all contact surfaces? - How do I get the trim to match up tightly? Slide and work it? About $100 with shipping from Pelican. When the car leaked, a drip from the dome light, the car was canted forward in a parking lot and I suspect the inflow exceeded outflow rate and it filled up. So I figure I can decress the inflow rate by installing a new gasket. I checked the drains and they are clear.... I pulled the front wheel liners and ran some weed wacker line up until it came out at the sun roof.. By the way, it appears to be an odd design as the water drain hole is way high in the wheel well and just drips all over everything in there including an electronic module near the rocker panel gets soaked. Of course I worry that I will make a bigger mess of it. Pelican technical article (I think it is a cut/paste from 101 projects book) http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...DY-Sunroof.htm Peace Bruce in Philly
  5. 2009 C2S coupe I am experiencing an odd engine behavior around 2700-2900 RMP when accelerating under mild load.... I get a quick miss/drop in power / thumpshake from the engine. I posted on another forum and it appears to be definitely experienced by some but not all. Some, like me, believe it is the variocam transition. Any insights into this? I spoke with my dealer tech and he didn't know nor had anyone complained. He said the variocam is actuated at 2200 RPM. Another poster spoke with his dealer tech, went for a ride, and the tech said "definitly variocam... some cars have it, others don't (drop)". My indy said it is definitely the variocam and the turbos always did this, the turbos were the first car to get the variocam. True??? I purchased the car, new to me a few months ago and it always did this, I now have 37K miles on it. Of course I am paranoid that something is amiss (yes, pun intended). Thanx Bruce in Philly
  6. I am considering purchasing 2009 911 from a non-Porsche dealer with very low mileage (definite garage queen) and stopped into a P-dealer just to see what they had. I chatted with the service manager and he said that buying CPO was way preferential because this low mileage car could have fused/stuck plugs in the engine block. He said that the dissimilar metals create an electrolysis process that fuses the metals together. He then said changing plugs is just about time as much as mileage and I would be taking a big risk buying an '09 with such low mileage. Opinions? Other issues with buying an '09, with very low mileage and out of warranty - I am pretty sure it is now out of warranty but will find out more this weekend. Thanx, Bruce in Philly
  7. It is possible that your heat exchanger / heater core has a small leak. I had that and even two mechanics smelled it and said it was mold and leaves. If you try the sprays and it doesn't last long, as for me, then it may be the exchanger. Easy to do yourself. Bruce
  8. Hi: I haven't posted here since 1998!!! Yikes! Anyway, just thought I would share my misfortune. My 2nd engine died in my 2000 S of an IMS failure. The first was the same failure. I am the original owner and now have (had) 197K miles on it and it was in fantastic condition. The first engine blew at 47K miles (replaced under warranty), and now the 2nd with 150K miles on it. My plan was to keep it until the wheels flew off.... I guess a bearing is a bunch of wheels eh? I don't know what to do.... been checking the options. I will never put another engine in it unless it is something special like a Raby or real well rebuilt one. Cost for this is around $20K and now that I have been perusing the used market, I see there are tons of options out there...... I still don't know what I am going to do. If you want to see some pics of it at 175K miles click below and note that for the life of the car, I put snows on it each winter and it was in a partially covered car part in center-city Philly for most of its life. Peace Bruce Warning, put on some sunglasses... pics at 175K!
  9. US 2000S w/standard S suspension (not M030) I broke the front driver's side spring - about 8", and am considering replacing all 4 springs and shocks. I have 135,000 miles on the car and plan on keeping the car forever so I think this is a good idea (anyone know how to stop entropy?). My goals: 1) Preserve the feel of the standard S suspension - I am not interested in a firmer ride (such as M030) as I like it the way it is - I live on and around horrible cobblestone streets and want to keep my fillings 2) Possibly lower the car 1" or less if I can keep item 1 above 3) I am nervous about changing the handling characteristics - OK to "improve" with improving being same roll and taughtness but a bit smoother is OK. In my research, H&R part 29779 is the H&R recommended spring for a 986 Boxster all years. Any comments on these springs? I also heard these H&Rs are progressive. Comments on progressive springs? My mechanic noted that these springs will not change the performance characteristics but will be a bit smoother on my cobblestones due to their progressive nature. He says they are "better". Lastly, my mechanic said he would use Bilsteins with these shocks but we did not talk about which model. I posted in the part number forum asking which was the correct Bilstein OEM part number for my car because BIlstein makes a HD and Sport model. Someone on PPBB said to use the Sport if I lower the car and HD if I don't and he noted the firmness is the same but the shock shaft length is differeent - however the Bilstein website made no reference to this but did say the Sport was firmer. Oh, I don't think I am interested in the ROW M030 as I know it lowers the car but will make the car firmer, something I don't want. Is there a ROW standard S springs/shocks that will lower but perserve the ride? Any insight here is fantastic. If I can't figure this thing out, I think I will have my shop just replace the 4 springs and shocks with Porsche replacement parts and be done with it.
  10. (see following post also) Does anyone know who the OEM and part number equivalent is for Porsche US 2000 S springs (standard not M030)? I am just looking to save a few bucks rather than buying the Porsche label. I broke about 8" of the front driver's side spring and given I have 135,000 miles, I am considering purchasing all 4 springs and shocks. I am also posting a question in the related sub-forum about possibly lowering the car with H&R springs - see my post there if you have any experience with alternative set ups. Thanx much!!!
  11. Does anyone know the Bilstein equivalent part number for a US 2000 S (standard not M030)? Bilstein has a few shocks, as denoted on their website, for my car: 1) HD, 2)Sport, and 3) PSS9. I know the PSS9 is their very expensive adjustable system. So, for my S, is it the HD or Sport? I broke about 8" of my front driver's side spring so I am considering replacing all 4 springs and shocks as my car now has 135,000 miles on it. I understand that the OEM is Bilstein and there is a rumor that ordering a Bilstein shock instead of a Porsche shock is less expensive. I am not interested in changing the ride characteristics. Thanx Much!!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.