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sburke719

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About sburke719

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    Los Angeles
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  • Present cars
    BMWs, and a pair of trucks
  1. Or go to Home Depot and but a small sealed 12V battery from the electrical department, usually purchased for use in an emergency exit sign. Stop by the electrical area to purchase 5' or red 5' of black 12 ga wire, a pair of alligator clips, and two connectors that fit the terminals on the battery. I think I spent $35 or so, and a second 12V auto battery is heavy, and any leaked battery acid will damage the floor mats. Connect the red to the fuse box terminal (I think it has to be protruding from the fuse box to work), and clip the black clamp to the driver's door hinge or travel stop. If the alarm was set when you locked the car, don't be surprised when it goes off as the auxiliary battery is connected.
  2. I don't really know where to begin. Currently, 996s are inexpensive to purchase, for a couple of reasons. Porsche sold a lot of them, so their prices aren't elevated by scarcity. Porsche purists look at them sideways, since they incorporated water cooling, and the styling shares forward-styling cues with the Boxster. For these, and so many other reasons, they're comparatively inexpensive, which is great if you're a buyer, and less wonderful if you've purchased a 996 new with the expectations that it would retain long-term value. I have seen the IMS failure rate estimated at 5% or so. The early dual row bearing engines seem to do better than the later single row ones. Although the IMS gets a lot of heat, there are plenty of other possible failures that can destroy the motor. At one point, Porsche had somewhat reasonably priced replacement engines available, but today's factory spare engines, if available, cost well more than the value of the car. Lesser-cost options for a new engine are developing, but none of them are "cheap". For many, losing an ~$25K engine is the end of that car as an economically viable item. If the IMS is a wear item, and you feel so inclined, you can replace it for little incremental cost when the transmission is out for a clutch change. If you have a Tip, then you'd R&R the transmission just to repair the IMS, or replace the main seal. And theories abound about the merits of frequent oil changes, oil filter media inspections, and other actions that may make an IMS failure less likely, or allow you to nip it in the bud, before the engine self-destructs. But, if the 5% failure rate is correct, then 95% of 996s never experience IMS failure. The transaxle has some weak parts, usually the second gear syncro and the pinion bearing. If those let go, it usually isn't the end of the car, and there are some capable firms to set failed transaxles right. Compared to losing a $25K engine, the loss of a transmission seems like you're getting away with little punishment by comparison. I'm in my mid-fifties, and have been enamored with Porsche since the mid-1970s. In those days, 356s were thought of as "worthless" and the 914 followed in that entry-level role in the next decade. As the years have gone by, model after model have risen from the low point of their depreciation curve, and are not considered "disposable" anymore. This does not mean that the 996 will be a future classic (other than limited production models like the GT2 or GT3) with rapidly escalating values, but they do make for an acessible entry into the Porsche world, and they're certainly nice to drive. PCA exists as a gathering place for fans of the marque. It is not an agency to strong-arm Porsche into doing things, but, as the largest single-marque enthusiasts' club in the world, it is in a position to possibly influence Porsche in some ways. Porsche Classic may show more love for the 996 by broadening parts offerings, but factory parts command factory prices, and these prices can be painful. Parts from the VW or Audi bin may cost 20% of the seemingly identical Porsche item, so some of the smaller trim items may have a less-expensive alternate available. But "hard parts" that are Porsche specific will always carry a premium price. In the end, go into 996 ownership well-informed, and make your own decisions. There are plenty of other cars that offer 80% of the 996 dynamics for 30% of the cost. And there are others that do a bit more than the 996, but they may cost three or four times as much to purchase and operate. The proverbial "*** for every seat" comment applies to 996s, and perhaps it's a good fit for you, or you might be happier elsewhere. But I do hope you find what you're looking for.
  3. Probably to get a siphon in there and suck the old fluid out.
  4. I believe they are compatible, but I'd recommend removing all of one and using only the other. I have heard a two-year life for unopened cans of brake fluid on the shelf. Once opened, it begins absorbing moisture, which decreases the boiling point over time from the high "dry" boiling point toward the lower "wet" boiling point. How much and how fast largely depends on the ambient humidity where you are. Recommendations - change fluid completely every year or two (more often if you're a track rat), using 2L of newly-bought good-quality brake fluid from unopened cans.
  5. Both are shot, but I'd expect too much negative camber on the RR, along w/ slightly low tire pressure. You don't seem to have the "scalloped" block edges that develop w/ incorrect toe.
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