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Domiac

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About Domiac

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    Finland
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  • Present cars
    2004 Porsche Carrera 4 Cabrio, manual, 85k

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  1. I can warmly recommend Andonstar 2.0MP that has "HD" CMOS, the image quality is truly amazing and the price is around $60. With this you can even inspect individual pixels in Apple's retina screen. I bet you could inspect cracks and such with it. However it is bulky and has manual focus. It just fits through spark plug hole with self fabricated mirror setup but requires you to play a role of an surgeon. For tougher angles and much smaller space you can purchase a general auto focus endoscope but the image quality is totally different even if they claim 2.0MP. Both these are USB which is handy for doing recordings to your laptop. From amazon you will get both under $100.
  2. IMS to crank chain tensioner is quite obvious, see the links in this msg. But you already split your cases so you are probably talking of something else? Navigate to https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkr4wuilr1o9slx/996-3_chain.png?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/52v4fgt1igarbzd/996_IMS_upgrade_tensioner_removal.jpg?dl=0 PS. How the heck I nowadays add new images to Renntech? "Link" gets garbled into renntech.org based and "Image" just hangs when pointing to external website.
  3. Once you put it back together, many parts fall in place naturally. Nevertheless, I recommend one to use e.g. zip ties and use permanent marker to write matching numbers between parts or something similar, that is quick to do and idiot safe. Take also bunch of pictures with your digi camera from different angles just to be on the safe side. Before you start wrenching plastic intake manifold back in place, attach all parts together first loosely, then check for alignments between the parts and adjust tube positions (push deeper together or pull shallower). You'll notice how this will affect getting a perfect fit between the plastic and aluminum parts by adjusting angle of the whole manifold. BTW Do you plan to do some kind of vacuum test for your engine? Now would be the perfect time to do it and see where it leaks, it's a perfect moment to change some lines or oil checkup tube etc.
  4. If you perform leak down test by yourself, have a look at http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/monthly_04_2014/post-93239-0-35664900-1397384617.png which helps you to find out TDC compression cycle for each cylinder. Here are the steps 1. Turn crank into TDC Zyl #1 mark, now test Cyl #4 2. Turn crank 120 degrees, now test Cyl #3 3. Turn crank 120 degrees, now test Cyl #5 4. Turn crank 120 degrees, now test Cyl #1 5. Turn crank 120 degrees, now test Cyl #6 6. Turn crank 120 degrees, now test Cyl #2 A few tips about this test: - on 996's turn crank only clockwise - Zyl #1 mark on crank means TDC overlap for cylinder #1 and TDC compression for cylinder #4 - a proper tool to find out the exact TDC point helps big time - let someone (or you) hold crank in place while pressurizing, otherwise engine might turn if you are off from TDC Please post your or the shops findings here.
  5. Yeah you are probably right, looks like my internet balls were a bit fierce last night, now how do I delete those posts? I am really just trying to understand whether it was a dodgy install, the product or another factor that just happened to be solved. If it was the camshaft timing that was off, it would suggest to me that someone did not install the product properly, allowing for some play with the IMS. It is of course very difficult to confirm any conclusions without being there and working on the actual car yourself. Actually, the VarioCam is oil pressure operated, so depriving it of either volume or pressure can make it bounce around wildly, so the bearing could have been still running true. Low oil delivery to one head would also cause all kinds of lifter related noise. But before anything could be determined, animosity and defense mechanism's set in and shop doing the remedial work got pissed off and clammed up and stopped posting, so any opportunity to learn something was completely lost. If you look at the "edit" related buttons under your post, there is a "delete" button. For what it is worth, I have noticed that I get some misfires on highest RPMs if my oil level is somewhat low, still acceptable, but low. Once oil level is ideal, misfires are totally gone. I have actually tested this two times with Durametric. I do not know why but I assume it has to do with volume or pressure change.
  6. Not entirely sure, but shouldn't one flush the entire cooling system by two different directions just to maximize the chances that all foreign parts come out from those small cooling channels? This is actually quite easy to do as the big coolant tubes are easily accessible underneath the car. Would hate to see myself that much later some cyl is running a lot hotter than the others. Perhaps more experienced persons should comment to this.
  7. If you use jack stands, please make absolutely sure they are safe even if something rocks the car (even a small earthquake on California). I made rock solid jack stands the cheap way, see my posting here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46241-create-rock-solid-jack-stands-for-your-porsche/ Also, my garage is less than 19' long and I've managed to pull my 996 engine + transmission twice. However I fabricated two trolleys from 2x4 and strong castors and I could steer the whole package out in two axis.
  8. I asked Kim to send his picture to my email so that I can add his picture to Renntech. Here it is:
  9. I am playing with fire but what the heck, have a look at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ also :beer:
  10. Hello, Please have a look at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WD1b8naXgo On my car it only lasts for a couple seconds. This occurs perhaps 1 per 20 startups and I have a strong feeling that only after cold nights or during cold mornings (defining cold here as 40-50F). I drive this car on a daily basis. Would you consider this normal behaviour? Many are posting similar questions like mine but without a video it is hard to judge if it is fine and occurs because some oil flows past rings to combustion chamber due to Boxster engine layout. Also some are talking of white, some grayish and some blue smoke :-) My car is 996, 2004, 3.6L, around 90k miles. AOS, plugs, coils are brand new. Both exhaust and cats look like brand new when borescoping. Leak down test >96/100PSI each cylinder, does not consume oil or coolant. Oil level is very close to maximum level, perhaps a tad lower than maximum. Using Motul X-Cess 8100 5w40. Thank you!
  11. That should be correct. You should only be able to put your locking tool for bank 1 when engine is on overlap TDC for cylinder #1. It can require a bit finesse to get the tool in as the tolerances are quite tight. Take your time and if it does not fit the first time, turn another 359 degrees (always clock-wise only) and the soonest you approach 360 degrees try fitting your locking tool again. I had to gently "tap" my crank back and forth (within less than a degree) in order to get the locking tool secured. As you can see the "half moons" are alternating their position per every 360 degrees, one is overlap TDC #1 and another compression TDC #1. Please follow LN's instructions to the letter if you have LN's bearing. Have fun and good luck!
  12. All I am saying is that when you pin your crank Zyl #1, you have either bank 1 or bank 2 relaxed, never both. Observe the exhaust cam locking "moons" from this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46354-tdc-cyl-1-for-a-3-chain-996-2004-36l/?hl=domiac#entry252752 It can very well be that at some other point (but not on Zyl #1 mark ever), one can get into such position where there is no tension in any banks.
  13. Here's a rough draft regarding cylinder stages that I did during my IMS / .. maintenance:
  14. To my understanding this cannot be true, there's always load in either bank 1 or 2 when you put locking pin to crank pulley (TDC Zyl #1) you are either 1) TDC compression #1 meaning - Cyl #1 TDC compression, has no valves open - Cyl #6 compression stage, all valves closed - Cyl #2 intake stage, has intake valves open (STRESS on bank 1) - Cyl #4 TDC overlap, no valves open (under overlap) - Cyl #3 exhaust stage, has exhaust valves open (STRESS on bank 1) - Cyl #5 power stage, all valves closed or 2) TDC overlap for Cyl #1 meaning - Cyl #1 TDC overlap, no valves open (under overlap) - Cyl #6 exhaust stage, has exhaust valves open (STRESS on bank 2) - Cyl #2 power stage, all valves closed - Cyl #4 TDC compression, has no valves open - Cyl #3 compression stage, all valves closed - Cyl #5 intake stage, has intake valves open (STRESS on bank 2) I have personally turned crank multiple times and observed how valves move on each cylinder.
  15. If you can, have your Bay Area Porsche mechanics answer to the following question: "Have you ever replaced IMSB?" If you asked this from Porsche dealership mechanics, they are even not allowed to do such retrofits. Both LN and Pelican insists that IMS needs to be secured before replacing the bearing.
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