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Everything posted by sburke719

  1. Or go to Home Depot and but a small sealed 12V battery from the electrical department, usually purchased for use in an emergency exit sign. Stop by the electrical area to purchase 5' or red 5' of black 12 ga wire, a pair of alligator clips, and two connectors that fit the terminals on the battery. I think I spent $35 or so, and a second 12V auto battery is heavy, and any leaked battery acid will damage the floor mats. Connect the red to the fuse box terminal (I think it has to be protruding from the fuse box to work), and clip the black clamp to the driver's door hing
  2. I don't really know where to begin. Currently, 996s are inexpensive to purchase, for a couple of reasons. Porsche sold a lot of them, so their prices aren't elevated by scarcity. Porsche purists look at them sideways, since they incorporated water cooling, and the styling shares forward-styling cues with the Boxster. For these, and so many other reasons, they're comparatively inexpensive, which is great if you're a buyer, and less wonderful if you've purchased a 996 new with the expectations that it would retain long-term value. I have seen the IMS failure rate est
  3. Probably to get a siphon in there and suck the old fluid out.
  4. I believe they are compatible, but I'd recommend removing all of one and using only the other. I have heard a two-year life for unopened cans of brake fluid on the shelf. Once opened, it begins absorbing moisture, which decreases the boiling point over time from the high "dry" boiling point toward the lower "wet" boiling point. How much and how fast largely depends on the ambient humidity where you are. Recommendations - change fluid completely every year or two (more often if you're a track rat), using 2L of newly-bought good-quality brake fluid from unopened cans.
  5. Both are shot, but I'd expect too much negative camber on the RR, along w/ slightly low tire pressure. You don't seem to have the "scalloped" block edges that develop w/ incorrect toe.
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