Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

mihaipopa

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    54

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mihaipopa

  1. mihaipopa
    Thanks 4x4. No pdcc here, all buttons black.
  2. mihaipopa
    Is the pdcc turbo exclusive? I didn't see any mentioning of it in the manuals for S. thanks
  3. mihaipopa
    Thanks, Loren. Any idea what a reasonable price would be for that sort of job? Just wondering if anyone had success with diy party fog machines, cigars, etc.? Thanks!
  4. mihaipopa
    Anyone know of a easy (cheap) way to test smoke the vacuum system?
  5. mihaipopa
    If I remember correctly I used a whole jug of undiluted coolant (I believe it's 3.8 liters). Mixed it with equal parts distilled water, so total I'd say around 8 liters of solution. If you use the airlift system just make sure that you place your vessel w mixed solution at the same level with the coolant reservoir and immerse the suction hose all the way to the bottom of the vessel; keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't twist around and allows air to be sucked in, thus defeating the whole purpose of vacuum filling. I'd say a 3.8 liter undilluted coolant jug is sufficient but if you wanna be on the safe side maybe have another liter available if you notice the airlift getting close to running out of liquid. Just close the vacuum, mix the extra coolant w equal water, add it to the vessel and resume the filling.
  6. mihaipopa
    ...and one final thought, if you decide to double check the system once filled with new coolant, by using a pressure tester, you'll need an adapter that screws on top of the coolant reservoir. I found this AST FZ41 to be pretty good for the job.
  7. mihaipopa
    ...and as far as the air compressor, I checked the instructions and it seems that 90psi/16 bar is the minimum required.
  8. mihaipopa
    1/4" airline nipple
  9. mihaipopa
    Hi WhisperBlade, here's the adapter I was talking about. Also found the receipt, it was (is?) item# 15306 at lowe's. Hope this helps.
  10. mihaipopa
    To be honest I only used the one in the trunk just once, for a punctured tire (if I remember correctly the manual states that it should be used for that purpose exclusively); for my coolant jobs, both pipes and reservoir I just borrowed a pancake style one, i think they sell at lowes for less than a hundred when on sale. The uview lift and the pressure tester I got on amazon. If you use the uview system you'll need to buy an adapter, it doesn't come with it. It's a couple of bucks at lowes, I'll send you a picture of it when I get home.
  11. mihaipopa
    Oh, and if you decide to pressurize the system after you fill it up w fresh coolant, you should do 22 psi/ 1.5 bar
  12. mihaipopa
    The vacuum stops moving up around 22-25"Hg (in the green zone) so that's when I close the valve and wait for a couple minutes. If the system's leak free it should hold right there
  13. mihaipopa
    Same here, if I go really gentle on the brakes and have a smooth coming to a halt, there is hardly there. Otherwise, there's always this drop in idle for like a second, accompanied by that annoying shudder. First stop in the morning is just the worst
  14. mihaipopa
    You're very welcome. You could probably get It done without jacking it up as there's plenty clearance especially with the plastic trays off (I just loathe working under cars on jacks). I also use a couple of wood planks and drive the front wheels right on them; that gives me enough room to do most of the work, oil changes and whatnot. Take care
  15. mihaipopa
    Does anybody know a diy vacuum leak test procedure for these trucks? I read about using a party fog machine, cigar, etc. just wondering if anyone's fine it successfully? How much would it cost done professionally? The vibration when coming to a stop is way more pronounced when engine cold. Would that be indicative of a vacuum leak? If the mounts are the culprits wouldnt it be the same all the time? Any input would be highly appreciated. Thanks guys.
  16. mihaipopa
    No need. If equipped w air suspension just raise it I the highest setting and make sure you deactivate it by pushing and holding the switch forward for 5sec until message displayed. Next, remove underbody trays and look for the drain plug on passenger side all the way in the front. You can unscrew the metal bracket thats right below it, for easy access, no need to remove it completely just remove the two screws on passenger side and slide it towards the rear (i used a wire hanger to secure it in that position). Place a bucket under it and using a large flathead screwdriver just unscrew the large plug (it's a big, blue plastic screw) and just move out of the way as coolant will start gushing out. Screw plug back on and refill your system. I use and highly recommend the uview airlift tool as it makes refilling so much easier and eliminates the risk of air bubbles being trapped in the system. I used I believe a gallon of undilluted coolant mixed 50/50 w distilled water. In the end it's a good idea to pressurize the system at the top of the reservoir but that's like if you wanna be really thorough. That's all. Keep checkig the coolant level in the reservoir (when cold, of course) see if it stays constant. That's all there is. Good luck!
  17. mihaipopa
    Glad you found it. Really easy replacement. Check this out: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement.htm I recommend ecs tuning for replacement part, best prices imo plus fast delivery. Good luck!
  18. mihaipopa
    I would first check the coolant reservoir. Mine started leaking at ~95k miles (also no smell, no visible leaks, just that dreaded check coolant level warning every other day). I pressurized the tank and sure enough there was coolant dripping slowly from the seams. Got a new reservoir for under $100 from ecs tuning, fast delivery, quick replacement. If that's the case, you'll also need more coolant unless you manage to siphon out the one that's already in the tank.
  19. mihaipopa
    Same here. If put in Neutral, no shudder. Otherwise, just this unpleasant vibration, more pronunciated when engine cold, but otherwise always noticeable. Changed all coils, air filters, reset throttle, no improv. Has anyone fixed it by replacing the motor mounts? Thanks guys. Mick CS04, 101k mi
  20. mihaipopa
    Any updates?
  21. mihaipopa
    Mine started making this whistle noise, like an air stream was going under the car that was easily heard when cruising down hill, off the gas. It went like that for a while until it started this rattling, grinding sound. I really hope that's not the case for you, as it's pretty costly. I think I paid around $3500 when it left me stranded in the middle of nowhere in central Florida
  22. mihaipopa
    Front differential? It failed me at 80k miles same simptoms. CS04
  23. mihaipopa
    Had the same issue after having it in the shop for about a week for a bumper change. When I picked it up it ran really rough, with slight knocking-vibration and a strong exhaust odor. I pulled over, disconnected-reconnected the throttle adapter, did the reset sequence, filled up with premium shell and let it idle for a few minutes. It ran normal after that. I would guess the fuel pumps are the culprits as they've never been changed (the carpet's still intact) and its approaching 98k mi. It's an 04 S.
  24. mihaipopa
    You will only remove some of the coolant in the system via the drain plug. 1 gallon undilluted coolant (go w porsche, pink one) mixed w 1 gallon distilled water is sufficient for the pipes job. Get a coolant tester and check the concentration, after you finish the job and run the new coolant through the system. After it cools off, of course.
  25. mihaipopa
    Assuming the pipes have already been changed, I would first check the coolant reservoir. Mine started leaking at ~95k miles (also no smell, no visible leaks, just that dreaded check coolant level warning every other day). I pressurized the tank and sure enough there was coolant dripping slowly from the seams. Quick and relatuvely affordable replacement
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.