wrljet

FWIW, that CVN check is required by OBD-II after a certain date.

What does IPAS stand for? What are the Z Numbers and Exclusive Numbers displayed on the PST2? Bill

2002 C2 with about 39000 miles. New motor. RMS and IMS on the new motor. Climatronic display went bad. Stalk for dash computer broke. Headlight bulb. Sway bar links loosened up. Two batteries.

theye are the same Are all those clear lights aftermarket parts, made in China?

The PZeroes are also very poor traction when cold. Bill

Why do you hate it on the track? Bill

Al, You're lucky to find sources of metric hardware like that. Around me I couldn't find anybody willing to sell capscrews like that for less than a $50 mininum. As I mentioned in an earlier post, personally I wouldn't go with steel for this application because of the potential for injury, both personal and to the threads in the wheel hub. But that's just me. The z-bar pivot is an example of a buy vs. build hobby decision. I installed a modern 5.0L motor in an '65 Mustang. The newer motors use a cable clutch linkage vs. the much more complicated mechanical linkage used in the old cars. A piece of that linkage looks a bit like a "Z". As a result of the change, a required boss on the block has been removed from the new motors. That thing in the pics is a bolt-on replacement I made for the missing attachment point on the block. Bill

Al, One of the things I learned over the years after becoming interested in machining and acquiring the lathe and Birdgeport. Never make it if you can just buy it. Unless of course, it's just too much fun. :-) http://www.wrljet.com/junk/ Bill

I called the local dealer and was prepared to buy one from them and was pleasently surprised to find that they are charging about 20% more then the MSRP listed on the forums look-up. <_< Time to head over to Dad's and spin up the lathe! I sure wish I had a metric leadscrew or transposing gears for my aged South Bend. Hey, way too interesting, My Dad's lathe is a 9" South Bend as well, I am pretty sure that the lead screw in SAE, but he does have a whole lot of gears for it (transposing?). I used this exact type of lathe in shop when I was in grade school, nobody else liked it because of the belt/pully system! Didn't matter to me because that was what I was used too, because of this I had almost unlimited time on it during class too. :) If I remember correctly it is circa 1940... Mine is a 10K, which is basically a 9" on jack stands. circa 1959. To cut metric pitches you need a special set of metric transposing gears in addition to the "whole lot of gears". Those are called change gears. Sometimes there's a quick change gearbox, like on mine, which is a 40-speed transmission replacing that pile of fiddly gears. None of those pitches are a close enough match to the metric 1.5 thread to allow you to cut a thread and have it screw in fully. Anyway, the transposing gears are a set of a 127 tooth and a 100 tooth gear. 127 = 254 / 2. 254 comes from the 25.4mm per inch. Those gears are not common, and are not cheap. Complicated by the fact the South Bend uses an oddball pressure angle gear (which vary with the vintage). Bill

I called the local dealer and was prepared to buy one from them and was pleasently surprised to find that they are charging about 20% more then the MSRP listed on the forums look-up. <_< Time to head over to Dad's and spin up the lathe! I sure wish I had a metric leadscrew or transposing gears for my aged South Bend.

Mine is 160mm long, 14mm diameter aluminum alloy round bar stock. Radius on the handle end, with a 7mm hole for a tommy bar. The thread is M14x1.5. Thread itself is 13.5 mm long. There's a threading runout groove at the end of the thread, against a square shoulder. IMHO, the aftermarket ones made of steel should not be used. The aluminum will give much easier if you bang into it (like with your shin), and also be less likely to damage the holes in the hub. Bill

That number (000.044.500.27) is for the (10 mm lower) US M030 suspension MY02-04, Coupe, 6-speed. If you want the ROW M030 (30 mm lower) then it is 000.044.500.35. Loren, Gert tells me 000.044.500.27 is a RoW M030 kit. 000.044.500.35 is the X74 kit. (does 10mm lower mean with respect to the original ROW height?) What -are- people buying that they are refering to a ROW M030? Bill

Since you read my post about EVERY honda engine turning backwards until 2002 you now know it's not just the Corvair. oh wait. you obviously didn't read my post. Sure I did. That's why I wrote "that I'm aware of."

Sunset just told me the part no. was 996-606-203-01. The number in my older PET software was 996-606-203-00. Does anyone know, have they updated this part? Bill

I got mine (just arrived yesterday, in fact) from Sunset. See the link to Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost up in the navigation links on the forum. Bill

The only automobile engine I'm aware of that turns in the 'wrong' direction is the Corvair. Bill

Yes, Jeff at Sunset. I wrote: "Can you quote me a price for a ROW M030 suspension setup, to fit a 2002 C2." His reply: "The suspension kit for an 02 C2 with manual trans coupe is 000-044-500-27" I Googled that part no, found a hit on a German Porsche factory website and it didn't look like the right thing. That is when I ask here on the forum for a verification. I asked Jeff to double-check for me: "Can you double check that part number. I want the ROW M030 kit. I believe that part number is 000.044.500.35." His reply: "The ROW m030 kit that we've always sold and people have been happy with it so long as their expectations are a slightly lowered car but with stiffer suspension but not the bone jarring suspension that the 30mm kit would be...." He also states the 30mm kit costs more than double the one he originally listed. So now I don't know what to do. I'm not sure he'll get me the correct kit. Bill

My concern is he doesn't really know what he's doing. I told him I wanted ROW M030, and he came back with that 10mm part nr., but refers to it as ROW. If you don't got the full ROW route, it doesn't seem worth the cost or effort to bother with a USA M030. ??? Bill

That number (000.044.500.27) is for the (10 mm lower) US M030 suspension MY02-04, Coupe, 6-speed. If you want the ROW M030 (30 mm lower) then it is 000.044.500.35. Where is the best place to buy these kits? Jeff at Sunset is telling me the "ROW" kit he's always sold the the other 10mm lowering part number. Bill

Thank you very much.../Bill

How about ROW M030 for the non-Turbo, 2002 C2 6-speed cars? Is it 000.044.500.27? Thanks, Bill

OK, (1) is done. I have switched to 18 inch wheels. 225/40 on 8 up front, and 285/30 on 10 in the rear. Car feels a lot better. Why does the factory recommend such a different pressure setup with the 18s vs. 17s? 36 psi up front, 42 in the rear. Is that a good starting point? Bill

Would black like is used on some BMWs look wrong?

Yeah, is this a great country, or what. Bill

Actually, out of the bead blaster (with Scat Blast media, I think) they have a very attractive surface finish. I might just try the clear coat. I've never used a clear paint before. Not much experience with painting. Bill While on the topic of wheel bolts, why the devil do so many of these German auto makers like to use wheel bolts instead of studs and nuts? Especially on the 911, when they had studs in the past, why the switch? Bill