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killerbee

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About killerbee

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 07/09/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Bothll, wa
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    92 mustang
    2005 turbo s cab
    2001 turbo coupe
    2001 VW GTI

Recent Profile Visitors

688 profile views
  1. After much messing around it appears that some of the pins in the OBD2 port are not getting proper contact. I pulled the fuse box cover and surround then reattached the durametric and it was able to read the DME. When the panel and port are reassembled the power light on the durametric connector is intermittent and clearly so are the connections to some of the other pins. I think its likely that the problem is on the 911 side of things. Rather then mess with all the pins in the connector what pins are required for communication with the DME ? Is this a common problem ?
  2. I have looked thru the 2001 wiring for the 996tt diagram that is floating around. I'd like to confirm what I am looking for so I can trace the run from the OBD port to the alarm to the DME. The k-line pin is #7 on the OBD plug and corresponds to an OG/BK orange/black wire. This wire connects to the "CU ALARM-CL" (AKA M525 module, alarm or immobilizer) on pin A2 (drawing labeled "K Lead" ) and enters as an orange/black wire. The line exits the alarm module via pin A23 as an Orange/White (drawing labeled "W Lead"). It enters the DME on pin A3 as a Orange/White lead (drawing labeled "W-Lead"). Given that this is a single lead I assume that the return is via a ground common to all the units. Also the term CU is everywhere on the wiring drawings, what is it an acronym for ? Also the 2nd attached file highlights a symbol and some numbers from the wiring diagram, any idea what they represent. Perhaps its a connector ? Richard: The Pin 21 reference points to a specific location, drawing reference ? Thank you for your help gentlemen
  3. I called durametric today and it appears that it is working correctly. The real problem appears to be Kline1 not working correctly. I was able to connect to the Alarm and airbag that is on Kline2. Now the question has become how to diagnose this and what are the likely causes. Is there a thread that addresses this issue ?
  4. The DME was reflashed about 5 years ago. The durametric has no trouble reading it until now. Previously the operating system was win7 and now it is win10.
  5. I have a 01 996 turbo. 3 year old durametric cable, newest s/w on windows 10. Durametric used to be able to read the DME, perform activations, etc. Now it will not read the DME and the car runs poorly. I suspect something is up with the ECU and perhaps that is why Durametric has stopped working. Is there a logical way to sort this out ? Thank You
  6. Car was running fine and had just come out of the shop after having engine out to weld coolant tubes, replace all seat and coolant lines, replace the coolant reservoir, new water pump, fuel filter etc. The only thing that could be called misbehaving was that I could not reset the airbag light (durametric) and neither could the shop that did the work and they were using the Porsche tool. Regardless, it ran fine for a few months and then I hit a bump (literally). Now the engine will not idle but pulls hard and behaves over 1800 rpm. First thing I did was try to use the durametric to pull codes but it will not read the dme module. Reads and interacts will all the others. Not too sure what not reading the DME points to but I suspect its a big clue. Any ideas where to start with this ? I have been thinking to check the inputs to the DME looking for something amiss but although I have the wiring diagram I do not have a pinout check, I.e. what pins are a continuity check, resistance check etc. The last resort is to take it to the shop but it would be fun to figure this one out.
  7. I had no idea what deoxit was but quickly found out. Its really useful at cleaning up electrical connections. A good addition to every toolbox. Thank you Ahsai
  8. Well its worse than a plug change. The sensor is just behind and above the last cylinder on the drivers side (#3?). I removed the pre-cat oxygen sensor and the #3 coil pack t get better access to the fastener. The fastener (5mm allen) is installed with blue loctite making it really hard to break loose. Could barely get the 5mm 3/8 drive socket in it and there wasnt a lot of engagement to be had since the chassis interferes. Finished the job with a vise grip on the side of the fastener (1/2 turn at a time). When I got the connector off I was greated with this. Sensor look about the same. Think there was a small coolant leak that I recently got fixed. Used contact cleaner and blew the plug out with compressed air. Will try and scrape the pins. There is no extra length in the harness to pull the plug out for easier access.
  9. Well it appears the germans call the "Cam Position Sensor" a "Hall Sender". Its covered in the Technical Manual for the 911 996 Turbo (pages 653-655) . I have attached the pages for reference. Based on the description its no worse than a plug change.
  10. Durametric says the sensor on Bank 1 is dead. I have been trying to find out where it is located. Any direction would be located I have the new sensor and would love to install it. Sincerely, Brian Bercovitz
  11. This is the lube you are referring to http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...-90_80W-140.asp. It is a real pain in the behind to find but one way is to use this page on the mobil web site http://www.host.exxonmobil.com/channelpart...r_directory.jsp A couple of phone calls and you can track it down rather easily. Pricing is usually better since you usually end up dealing with a distributor I got it for 26 a gallon but had to drive 17 miles to get it.
  12. Hummm By that point I'd be considering changing it. I have been told by the dealer that some 01s came with a dipstick. I have never tried to confirm this but it seems like its worth looking into as a double check against the electronic method.
  13. My understanding is that the GT2 rear lips are rolled at the factory to fit the 12" wheels
  14. Generally, changing the accumulator is recommended since they have a history.
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