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About mklein9

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  • From
    Palo Alto, CA USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 996 C2 coupe, Lapis Blue, X74
    2005 987 Boxster, Atlas Grey (spousemobile)
  • Future cars
    Some more 911s.
  • Former cars
    1987 Carrera coupe, Venetian Blue, sold 01/2013 with 151k miles.

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  1. And, FYI in case somebody wants to get the CEL light off quickly, first clear the related fault codes, then drive so that all the conditions in the attached chart are covered. I don't recall where I got this chart. Mainly you have to drive very gently for some time in a narrow RPM range and be patient about it. I was able to do all of this on my drive in to work taking an alternate route that had few stops and I could drive pokey slow in the right lane of the freeway (4th gear at 1900 RPM) then idle in the parking spot for a minute to get the last one done. Half an hour later all the ready indicators pass. Helpful notations on the chart are to keep the RPM between 1800-2000 which is the range that all the separate items requiring an RPM range have in common. Load in Kg/h appears to be MAF reading and I found that idle sits at just above 25 Kg/h. None of the loads shown are very high so gentle driving on flat roads and without needing to stop/start is necessary. If you were really good you could do this in 17 minutes.
  2. Installed Carnewal 200 cell cats today and here are the O2 sensor voltages. CEL still on but things sure look better on both sides, and the exhaust rattling is gone. Bank 1 cat had lots of loose stuff inside it.
  3. 2002 C2, 95k miles, original exhaust and O2 sensors. A few months back the CEL went on, Durametric says P0420: Porsche fault code 40 - Cat. conv. efficiency bank 1. CEL has stayed on so I investigated further. Pre- and post-cat O2 sensor voltages shown in attached charts, upper chart for Bank 1 and the lower for Bank 2. Warmed up the system at idle, then throttled up to 2.5 - 3k three times, two short, one long, during which time all sensors went near zero. It looks like Bank 1 (upper chart) post-cat sensor is showing a problem while Bank 2 (lower) looks fine. (I started capturing Bank 2 after Bank 1) Also for a few years there has been a little rattling on the driver's side exhaust which I've suspected is a failing cat, but the exhaust system has not been recording any faults until now. After having read a few related threads, it seems fairly certain that the Bank 1 cat is failing, perhaps with a loose element that reduced cat performance after the third throttle bump in the charts below. I'm leaning that way because it appears the sensors are all reporting data at about the same rate, oscillating when expected, except for post-cat Bank 1's sensor which begins the capture looking like it is largely reporting correctly but ends with oscillations that shouldn't be there. There has been no perceptible change in performance, and I have over a year until the next smog inspection, so there's time. Does this information indicate a pretty strong likelihood of a failing Bank 1 cat? Or are there additional diagnostic steps I should take to eliminate other causes?
  4. I measured and looked today and found: Continuity from DME to sensor connector was fine on ground and signal (0.1 ohms), but +5V supply was open (DME pin C7, X59/2 pin 22, sensor connector pin A3) Also checked continuity from X59/2 connector both ways (to DME and to sensor connector), which had the same results as #1 Checked resistance between sensor ground and sensor signal which was open, so given that fault code P0342 appears together with factory code 112 ("below limit" i.e. short to ground) it must be something other than wiring introducing a short or other type of no signal Reconnected battery and DME connectors, turned on ignition, measured voltage at sensor connector supply pin (A3) and no question, it is a solid 11.6 V, equal to battery voltage The only conclusion I can come to is that even though wire colors for sensor supply wire (RD/VT) match the wiring diagrams for my model and year, the diagrams are wrong. The connection to the sensor must be +12V, not +5V. So I went ahead and replaced the sensor, cleared faults, and drove it around the block and it seems fine for the moment. To the original topic: I also cleaned out more "green stuff" from the X59/2 connector that I thought was corrosion, and it's definitely a grease material as it comes off easily, leaving surfaces that look just fine. Probably overly aggressive use of dielectric grease in the past? This connector was heavily worked on 4 years ago while diagnosing and fixing what did appear to be a wiring problem with the crankshaft speed sensor.
  5. Was running great for 2 weeks and the same issue came back, even more frequently. Usually P0342 and sometimes P0344, with CEL. I cleaned the X59/2 connector with Q-Tips and the green stuff is gone. Seems unlikely to be dielectric grease since dielectric grease should be very stable over time. I've tried measuring resistances and voltage but I must have gotten something wrong because they didn't make sense. With hall sensor connected, measuring at the DME connector (unplugged from the DME) from hall sensor signal to ground was an open circuit. With hall sensor disconnected, DME plugged in and ignition on (but engine not running), the hall sensor connector pins measured 11.7V at the + terminal and 11.2V at the signal. OK but from the wiring diagram the voltage to the Hall sensor should be 5V. It's a bit of effort to get all the right conditions to measure each part of the circuit so I'm just going to order a new camshaft position sensor ($100 for the Bosch version vs. $250 for the Porsche version), install it, and see if that fixes it.
  6. I am not really sure what the green stuff is. The consistency does seem like it is greasy, but hard to tell. So it could be old dielectric grease, maybe reacting with Deoxit DN5. I doubt it's a sensor failure because the symptoms were gradual and intermittent. I had noticed a few momentary power losses over the last month or two that preceded the CEL, which would be likely results of intermittent bad hall sensor signal. The CEL went away by itself too. Since I've taken the X59 apart, sprayed more Deoxit DN5 in them, and inserted/removed them numerous times this weekend, the engine has been flawless again. Only 2 days so far.
  7. My 2002 996's X59 connectors have been problems in the past and may be acting up again. Back in 2014 I got the car with newly repaired engine due to IMS bearing damage from Flat 6 Innovations and the instant it came off the truck it had severe running problems which, after much effort and expense, were tracked down to bad X59 connections. For some reason it didn't show any issues at Flat 6. Last week a new CEL showed up with a P0342 code -- bank 1 camshaft hall sensor/sender with implausible or low signal. After the experience in 2014 I didn't think the sensor was faulty, but more likely some connection along the line. Below are photos of both halves of the two X59 connectors. The upper one, X59/1, looks clean. The lower one, X59/2, and which carries the crankshaft position sensor (2014's problem) and camshaft hall sensor (the current issue), is a different story. I sprayed Deoxit DN5 liberally into both halves of both connectors, used the locking ring to slide the halves together and apart and together again at least 5 times, and hope for the best. The CEL is gone, but I wonder what's next. Any advice for how to do a more thorough cleanup of these connectors? In the photos, the first two are the X59/1 connector and the last two are X59/1 which looks much worse; I've marked pin 14 which is the Hall Sensor pin.
  8. Thanks Ahsai, good that you have an engine out and ready for pics! It was super easy to find the bank 1 camshaft hall sensor now that I knew where to look. The sensor connection looked fine but the engine connection in the X59/2 connector is a different story. Hit them all with lots of Deoxit DN5.
  9. BTW, is the bank 1 sensor in the same location on the heads, but the heads on bank 1 are flipped around from bank 2 (for a 2002 996)? I.e. same position as Ahsai circled, except looking from the back of the car forward. I have a CEL from a P0342 which is for bank 1. I spent a little time this morning looking for the bank 1 sensor and it wasn't obvious to me where it was.
  10. I bought a used clutch from local PartsHeaven (delivered the next day), $150 plus tax and shipping. They decided it was easier to just send me a whole compressor instead of pulling the clutch off. It took 30 seconds to remove the clutch pressure plate from the "new" compressor and 20 minutes to install it on my compressor, most of the time being to R&R the air filter housing. That is the quickest saving of $1000+ ever. Seems to work fine, at least it spins when the A/C control is turned on and doesn't when it's not. So if anyone needs a used Denso compressor without the outer clutch pressure plate, I've got an extra :-).
  11. @Judibake, this is great info. I was not even aware of DCauto.com and yes, they have a used clutch for $100. In my case, it looks like the outer pressure plate unscrewed itself and simply fell off. I looked all around the engine compartment and there's no sign of it.
  12. Super old thread but same question. My compressor's clutch simply *disappeared* last week. Mechanic looked through the engine compartment on a quick inspection and could not find it. The compressor looks OK but the electromagnetic clutch plate at the front of the assembly is simply missing and the clutch does not engage. Sunset Porsche now has a full parts catalog online. Clutch by itself is $642; full compressor assembly is $1258 (new, I suppose, 996-126-011-52). Pelican has the full compressor assembly from Denso for $499 (new, 996-126-011-BX-M11), and Porsche compressor assembly with clutch, also new, for $661 (996-126-011-BX-OEM).
  13. OK, thanks JFP. I found the Pelican photos too but it is not obvious from the photos alone that the unit can be loosened enough to remove the fan without disconnecting the hoses and removing the whole assembly.
  14. Next time, try looking up the parts in the Porsche PET system. Your passenger's side fan is available as a separate part, #99762412802, and retails for a tad under $450.. Thanks JFP; I was aware that the fan can be bought as a separate part but was asking if the replacement of the fan alone can be done without removing the whole unit from the car. Sorry for confusion on the question.
  15. Durametric says I have a problem with the passenger side radiator fan. Using the Actions controls to turn on the radiator fans, the passenger side fan does not turn on in either low or high setting. Previously while replacing brake pads I removed the wheel well liner and inspected the radiator unit. The fan turns freely when manually pushed but does not turn under computer control. So the fan motor appears to have failed. Driver's side fan works fine. The fan is mounted to the radiator as a unit and it appears impossible to remove just the fan without removing the whole unit, and given the tight space it appears necessary to disconnect the unit from the cooling hoses to do so. I was hoping to avoid this and replace just the fan. I have searched and there are numerous sources for replacing the whole unit but none (that I've found) that discuss whether the fan can somehow be removed and replaced by itself. Does anybody know if this can be done? 2005 Boxster, manual, no mods.
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