Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to subscribe or donate. All subscriptions and donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual subscription or donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you subscribe RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's quality Porsche information at a low cost.

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by subscribing or donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

ekstroemtj

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,074

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ekstroemtj

  1. ekstroemtj
    I did the same many many times in the last weeks. And yes if you are using to much force you can brake the hose where the flex part is starting. Best way you take one hand one the part which is flexible and orher hand to the part where MAF is sitting. You need to wiggle a bit and it will go apart. You can use a bit of WD40 on the place where the hose clamp is. Makes it more easy.
  2. ekstroemtj
    Mark... just read your old post. I am hunting for my overboost reason. You mention water temp gauge can be a culprit. I bad thermostat too?
  3. ekstroemtj
    bigbuzuki... thank you very much. I will try this. Should be easy to replace. Will report the result
  4. ekstroemtj
    Its not a matter of low voltage. I have 2 new batteries. Driving arround without problems but: the "P" problem still excists. no illumination on the shifter for selected gear. according some forum members i need to check the wiring under passenger carpet for broken or bad wires.
  5. ekstroemtj
    Great job! According your post and the pictures i understand you replaced only the broken sections? Not the entire line from N75 to wastegate?!
  6. ekstroemtj
    thank you. this is also a work which is waiting for me.
  7. ekstroemtj
    the better drive habits didnt last long. running is going to be the same like before. almost. i have always a one time wonder when i remove and reinstall the MAF the car is driving very good for some miles after this job. what could cause this phenomenon? can i messure the voltage at the MAF connection? what reading i should see? Thank you
  8. ekstroemtj
    So today at least i was able to change the air hose which is going from the turbo to the part where the MAF is located. Little bit teight everything down there but in the end could do it. Which surprise, the car runs better now. Couldnt feel the hesitation right now while driving. I will report how it will be next days.
  9. ekstroemtj
    Today i had time to continue to work on this. Have now 2 fully charged batteries inside. Still the same. Message on the display and the missing click clack when you put in the key and take out the key from ignition. The click clack is only working without the green circuit board. Strange
  10. ekstroemtj
    I cant get very much for the car. Thats the problem. So better to continue to drive than to give it away for a small money. If you open internet here you find hundreds for sale. Most of them overprized.
  11. ekstroemtj
    I would say depends on the previous owner. If somebody will buy my car one day he shouldnt have problems. I changed almost everything
  12. ekstroemtj
    Hey! Dont be like this. Not everything what is coming from here is so bad
  13. ekstroemtj
    Sorry could not do anything with the car last 2 days. Always to late at evening. Just measure the battery. Dropped from 12 to 10,90. thats bad :-(
  14. ekstroemtj
    Guys ! Thank you. Lots of interesting information. looks like i have to check the situation under the car like bigbuzuki explained. Lewis the battery situation i will check at evening. I will messure at the jumper points and see what the reading is after one day sitting.
  15. ekstroemtj
    Maybe i will just swap the battery from my turbo to this car and see how it works. If no change, no need for a new battery
  16. ekstroemtj
    Will buy new one :-(
  17. ekstroemtj
    So you want to tell me this battery is toast again?
  18. ekstroemtj
    Lewis, i try to track down the drain problem by using a method which i found on you tube. Used the voltmeter and pinned every single fuse if there was some flow. All what i found is the fuse for the plug in connectors. Of course this problems are running down a battery very fast. No driving for some weeks and the battery is down. I charged . When the car is running its showing 13,8 in the engine compartment at the jumping connectors. Engine shut off its showing now 12.00
  19. ekstroemtj
    Thats the point. Its going to P and shifting is ok. You just dont hear the click when putting in and out the key. I guess it must be something electric. Otherwise it wouldnt work when taking out the green circuit board
  20. ekstroemtj
    You even refer to the part number in a different topic. But i cant find a part diagramm showing the location.
  21. ekstroemtj
    Thank you. But where this cable could be. Nothing which is looking similar on the shifting assembly.
  22. ekstroemtj
    Thank you for this post. Are we talking about this cable with the BLUE head?
  23. ekstroemtj
    Lewis i changed all this parts for new. The lever with magnets. The board. Nothing changed.
  24. ekstroemtj
    Yes the tranny is going to the P Position. Even showing on the dash "P". but as soon as i want to take out the key...........PUT SELECTOR TO PARK POSITION
  25. ekstroemtj
    I replaced the board for a new one and the problem stay. So its not the board
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.