ekstroemtj

thank you Lewis 

ALTERNATOR QUESTION. Sorry has nothing to do with the title of this thread but I didn’t want to open new one.

i had my alternator replaced 2 years ago. Overhauled part. Is working flawless but makes noises from the very first day.  The mechanic maybe should hear it before replacement but he didn’t. Now he is in and because it’s a pita to replace we didn’t change. Just the noise is a bit annoying. 

Is there a chance to replace the bearing without taking the alternator out of the car? 

Thank you

The ones you mention are between 25 and 40 EUR. They look similar but they don’t work well. That’s what I was told from 2 different suppliers. 

I wouldn’t be scared about the China story. I am just now using a IPhone to write you which is mainly from.... 

and it’s not falling apart.

I wouldn’t play around with this part. Turbo non Turbo. Looks similar but ... make this step and buy the right part and have freedom

If you can hear the valve it’s already a fault. The ticktick of the purge valve is a clear sign something is wrong. IMO this is showing the valve is open/close/open/close

@Zakowsky... Mikel, i hadn’t have the smell lately. But can’t tell you why . Like i wrote in my original post, i believe it’s not burned oil. It tastes like fumes from the PCV / crankcase ventilation. I believe you are on the right way. 

What Lewis mention, please go to check the wiring to the purge valve. Mine was cake too. In the end I can’t even say if the wiring was the problem or the purge valve. I changed both.

Mine i bought from a vendor in eBay.

But it was some time ago. Maybe you could even find a used unit or you change to the new high tech units with touchscreen etc. 

Hi .actually mine was the same. Needs a new display. Nothing to do with software

19 hours ago, wizard said:

Guten Tag, Thomas.

I'm not at all familiar with Cayennes but, if there's a difference in total wheel diameter between your summer and winter tyres, wouldn't that affect ride height and air suspension setting? Just a thought as to what might trigger the code.

Hello and greetings to Westerwald. 

Thank you for your note. Maybe you are right but the air suspension workshop failure I got already last week when I still used summer wheels. In my case I believe it’s related to outside temp / maybe battery power.

@Zakowsky hello to Canada

regarding your codes I can say, the lower temperature always brings air suspension workshop messages to my display too. Don’t know why. Usually they disappear after new start. Maybe again a low voltage problem. Don’t know. 

As you remember i had problems with the EVAP valve too. The part isn’t that expensive. Lewis would say change it and forget about the problems. 

13 hours ago, lewisweller said:

Looks like this tyre was fitted on the rear and it's been toeing in for a while hence the dragging of rubber marks seen in the last picture. I've seen worse! 

Yes this ones are from behind.

What means „toeing“?

thank you Lewis

Changed summer wheels to winter. They don’t look good anymore and they have a strange pattern left and right 

Oh oh. Hope will be not as difficult as it sounds like. 

Oil spots around this black cabs point to the seal. I had one replaced last year. 

When you are there unwrap the wires and check. Mine where toast

I know i know that’s a part I don’t like too. Always have lots of trouble to take away this cab. Maybe somebody has to advise us which tools to use

@Zakowsky  hi to Canada. 

I am still having this smell. Not always I need to say. I doubt it’s coming from the intercooler Hose. I drain this regularly.  

We need to think about where else can be a possible cause. I believed it could be the smell of fume which is usually circulating in our crankcase vent hoses. Checking the PCV system again maybe could be a start 

4 hours ago, lewisweller said:

It won't do either. 

It only operates  the first 20sexond of a cold start . After that it's completely unused. 

Great! Thank you Lewis

3 hours ago, lewisweller said:

Block it off and forget about it. 

Just afraid it will influence Lambda reading or my emission Test which I have to pass

Thank you guys.  As I understand you well Lewis,  the Valve is stuck open. Reason can be mechanical because the valve is defective or the pump is not strong enough anymore to open /  close the valve?

thank you very much

On 19.10.2017 at 11:38 PM, JFP in PA said:

No, it is an emissions control device.

@JFP in PA greetings to the specialist. 

What will happen exactly if the valve connected behind the pump is not working? 

Friday i start to hear a noise which is almost the same like a leak in the exhaust. Found out it’s coming the secondary air pump or the valve.  The pump is still working but sounds different than the passenger side.  Disconnect the black big hose which is routing to the valve I can hear air and feel something like exhaust gases. Valve  smashed?

On 29.10.2017 at 12:32 PM, Fr-auto said:

Thanks.....turns out that someone puts in the wrong cams with bother wheels on it. Problem solved

 

Don’t get it. Sorry. What does it mean.  Thank you

On 18.10.2017 at 10:16 AM, Zakowsky said:

Ironically mine is starting to do the same thing, although I thought it was something in the HVAC system burning out. Electrical/rubber smell really strong at certain temps but not at others. But today I hit the brakes hard and then smelt what could have been oil burning off. Plus my mileage is getting worse to. Weird. I have some minor leaks, like around the cam sensor cap and probably the valve covers. How do these engines hold up to pressure washing? Some are fine (Jeeps!) whereas others short out and die!

When did you you take out your coils last time? 

There is a gasket under the valve cover for the spark plugs. This is becoming very brittle over time. Oil is flowing to the tunnel where the coils are. This could cause a smell when engine hot.

@lewisweller makes sense Lewis.id it’s like this I can’t do anything against.  But still don’t know how burned oil is resulting in a smell inside the car. Wondering because i didn’t have it one year ago

Smell of.....

i experienced already for some time a strange smell inside the cabin when I drive the car hard. 

Its not exhaust, it’s not gasoline. I guess it’s a kind of fume which is flowing through the hose crankcase ventilation system. A mixture of hot air and oil. I believe it could be this kind smell of air which is sucked into the intake to get burned in the engine.i hope i could describe it so somebody could point me to a possible cause. Thank you. 

19 hours ago, TDHeller said:

Here too looking for any repair info on this issue.

I just bought an 08 Cayenne from an indy dealer -As is No Warranty - They wouldn't offer one.

Engine ran fine on test drive of about 10 miles - no problems evident anywhere - vehicle looks factory fresh from top to bottom.

Drove about 65 miles home with only one large puff of blue smoke on launch from light- ran fine save a slight miss at times.

Next day changed oil Mobil 1 0w40 with Mahle filter and vehicle close inspection - looks better than suspected everywhere.

Following day drove around town 20 miles or so low RPMs and city traffic developed a serious miss and performance issues.

Checked and replaced coils (BERU) and plugs (Bosch) before extended drive following day - after 60 miles developed same miss and heavy oil consumption (#8 & #1 cyls.). Parked it and boroscoped  Cylinder 8 and found scoring from photo attached. also only 150 psi compression on 3rd hit.  

Looking for an effective solution short of total engine replacement. Anyone have luck with re-honing cyls and re ring engines here?

Feel very sorry to hear this. Very bad luck.

wondering you didn’t hear anything during test drive. Surprised it happens so suddenly. No extreme driving, no extreme driving.  

Maybe they have used a extremely heavy oil to push down the knocking noise when u had your test drive.

which engine is it? How many miles?