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Citgot

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Everything posted by Citgot

  1. Yes, I cleaned the TB and the intake manifold from all oil after replacing my AOS. I have driven a few days after the AOS job without any smoke, so the smoke most likely has something to do with my latest injector cable problem. I’ll take it for a spin and see if it clears up. I hope there is no risk of any fire in the cat?
  2. I decided not to replace the injectors right now as I didn’t want any more possible faults before I sorted my last one. So I soldered the wire and put everything back as before. Measured the voltage and the resistance in the soldered wires and they seemed ok. I then started the car and it didn’t show any check engine lights. Success! At least I thought for a few seconds but the my garage was filled with smoke from the right exhaust. And I mean totally filled with smoke! So is this expected and will stop after all the unburnt fuel is gone or have I missed something when putting everything back in the car?
  3. This is how I found the cable after getting it out of the intake, which was harder than expected. I guess I have found my problem. So as I now have 6 new injectors, would you recommend that I replace them when I am in there or should I sell them and cut my losses, or maybe save for when a injector stops working?
  4. Of course, heatshrinking before taping is a must. I was a bit unclear about that but I had no intention of doing a hasty and ****ty repair.
  5. Thanks. Yeah, I know where the cable might be broken as it sat wedged between the upper intake manifold and the lower part. I’m surprised that the car ran at all, must have been some air leak because of that cable being there. I have already lowered the engine a bit as I was about to replace all the injectors. That’s when I found the cable being stuck. Actually I replaced the AOS without lowering the engine, bad call... I shall try to peel back the insulation on the wire to find if it is cut. But it is very very hard to reach it with both hands. Maybe I can solder it and tape it back together. Would probably be easier from underneath but the cable is far too short for that. As the fault code indicated that the injector was shorted to ground, can I assume that it is at least the live wire that is broken or could a cut ground wire give the same code?
  6. Bummer, looks like I pinched the wire going to the cylinder 3 injector when remounting the intake when I did the AOS. I guess that happens when working only by feel with no visual possibilities. I guess it is more likely that that is the problem than a faulty injector then. Seems like a tough match to repair the wire so far in the engine bay. Can anyone tell me how that wire is wired, I mean can I unplug it somehow to repair it outside of the car (if it is broken that is)?
  7. I have got e-gas on mine so I guess that makes my motronic a 7.2 which means the fault codes are all on cylinder 3. Makes sense now. Thank you for your help.
  8. I don’t know which version I have. I can’t find it anywhere with my scan tool. Didn’t know the fault codes differed but that would explain why it looked like cyl 5 also had a bad injector.
  9. OK, thanks. I’ll do a pressure test and see if it indicates that any injector is leaking. I guess I’ll have to check the wiring on bank 2 as well. Are injectors known to go permanently bad on 996 or is it just a matter of removing and cleaning them?
  10. So cylinder 3 misfires could be something else than a fuel injector? Isn’t it strange that problems on two cylinders in different banks occurred at the same time?
  11. Looking through the fault codes a bit more thorough p1229 seems to address the fuel injector in cylinder 5, not cylinder 3. Is that correct?
  12. Thank you! Found in some other older thread that I need a M14x1.5 to M15x1.5 adapter for a standard pressure tester. That confuses me, why would not a M14x1.5 to 1/8” NPT adapter work? I thought 1/8” NPT was the standard pressure tester connection.
  13. Thanks. Engine off fuel pressure, is that what is described in Workshop Manual section 20-2 with a special Porsche tool?
  14. My joy after replacing the AOS, IMS and RMS was short. My car ran well for a few days but yesterday it started hesitating and it felt like I lost a cylinder. The engine light started flashing whenever the speed exceeded 20 mph. I limped to a friend’s home nearby and then the right exhaust started smoking and a petrol smell was obvious. Fault codes are P0300, p0303 and p1229. I have tried with replacing the spark plug and the ignition coil on cylinder 3 but that did nothing. The spark plug is drenched in petrol. There is voltage in the ignition coil cable on cyl 3. What is my next recommended step? Compression test? Anything else? Edit: 996 3.4 2000
  15. Thanks! Now I feel more confident that nothing is wrong. Just what I wanted to get confirmed!
  16. 8.5 liters won’t do it for me as I then run low on oil. Even 9.7 litres is too low. But maybe as I have removed the sump, chain tensioners, IMS-bearing and a few other things I have drained more than a regular oil change. I guess I have no other option than to top off a bit more so the dipstick reads OK and leave it at that. And buy more oil than specified next time.
  17. Well. I thought my initial post was clear enough about that I did just that as I said the amount. Obviously the engine takes more oil than Porsche intended but I can’t run the car low on oil just because the manual states a certain capacity. The oil has to be between the indicators. My question was more how this could be and what to do about it. I have never heard about a 996 3.4 taking 11 litres of oil. That’s 2,5 more than specs.
  18. I am finally done with all the winter’s projects on my -00 996 3.4. I filled it with new oil -8.5 litres including 0.5 litres in the filter. However both the dipstick and the electric meter says that it just reaches minimum. So I filled more, and checked, and even more, and checked. Ran the car. Checked. Filled even more. And checked. Ran the car. I have now almost 10 litres in the car and the dipstick says it is on the minimum line and the electric meter says one bar over minimum. There are no leaks as far as I can see. The car sat with oil a few weeks before the transmission was reinstalled so I could check for leaks. So what should I do now? This is just strange.
  19. I knocked it back out again and reseated the bolt and got it better. Measured, and it looks like it is seated correctly or at the most 0,3mm from perfect. Tight on space and hard to measure accurately, but looks like I solved it without too much force applied to the bearing. Thanks
  20. Yeah, that is my conclusion as well. So my only option seems to be a puller that uses the inner race as the point of resistance. Then it will be no force on the balls or inside of the races.
  21. Looks the same as every other bolt in retrofit kits. As do the nut so that is strange that it won’t fit the bearing puller or slide hammer. But maybe someone know the best way to get the bolt back into the bearing if I can fit the bolt with a puller or slide hammer. Is there any other good way? I guess leaving it as is with 1mm left to go in isn’t a good alternative.
  22. No kit, but the bolt is said to be the same as in 9products’ kit. Same bolt and same 12-point nut.
  23. When I inserted the new IMS bearing the center bolt came loose and fell into the shaft. I don’t want to extract the bearing again so I need to find the best method to get the bolt back into the bearing. I used a magnet and got in back in but not all the way. The bolt get stuck the last mm so it isn’t seated properly. I tried pressing it back in with the IMS flange and the nut but it looks like it will need more torque than the threads can handle. I thought about using a glide hammer but I don’t want to damage the bearing races or balls. The thread on the new 10 mm stronger center bolt also seem to have a strange thread format not conform with European M-threads so no glide hammer adapters fits. The IMS bearing puller I have don’t fit the new bolt either. So, do anyone have any tips on how the get the bolt seated all the way inside the bearing without damaging the bearing itself or the bolt?
  24. Tread resurrection from hell, but do anyone know the measurements/dimensions of the original dual row retention snap ring? Would be nice to know what it looked like before extraction
  25. Thank you! That will help me a lot. Redneck is my preferred method as it is cheap and quick.
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