dbmies

I had the same issue - 2000 996 110k miles was howling at the gas cap, idled high at times and wouldn't start after I filled the tank unless I held throttle wide open and cranked for 10 seconds. Started about 18 months ago year ago, but didn't throw a code until recently - then got these three: - P0446 Shutoff valve activated - P1128 Oxygen sensing adaptation (idle range bank 1) - P1130 Oxygen sensing adaptation (idle range bank 2) Blowing out the canister hoses didn't help - in fact I couldn't get air to pass thru those at all - they just pressurized. I recommend using Durametric software to check the purge valve before spending the time to pull the wheel well liner. I couldn't hear the purge valve clicking when activated so that was the issue. Be aware the clicking on the new valve is faint so you have to go back to the engine compartment to listen for it. I replaced with the cheaper Bosch valve - $27.44 on amazon or 44 at Pelican. Amazon.com: Bosch 0280142308 Purge Valve: Automotive WWW.AMAZON.COM Buy Bosch 0280142308 Purge Valve: Canister Purge Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases I was able to remove/reuse the tubing from the original valve by heating up with a heat gun - it took some effort and it twisted/kinked a bit but didn't crack. I fitted it to the new valve with electrical tape and a clamp. Would be better to replace with automotive tubing if you have the correct size on hand. Thank you for the guidance!

Replaced the fuel pump. Went straight to the station and filled up with 15 gallons. Started up no problem. Think that fixed it. Thanks all.

Thanks - I carry spare relays in the car but why would it only occur after refueling?

I have a 2000 996 with 107k miles I had the AOS replaced about 20k miles ago. I replaced my crank position sensor about 5k miles ago to prevent hot start issues. For the third time in about 3 months (I don't drive every day) my 996 wouldn't fire after filling up with fuel. I had been having issues with gas station pump nozzles shutting off prematurely - in California where we have the vapor recovery nozzles that aren't good for topping off the fuel. But the only way I could get my tank close to full was to fill it very slowly. The first time I had the starting trouble after fueling, the car started up normally, but as soon as I pulled out onto the street and stopped at a traffic light the engine died - as if the fuel pump had stopped. When I tried to restart, the engine cranked but with no signs of fire. I pushed it back into the gas station and after 15 minutes with tow truck on the way I tried one more time - with the pedal floored - and it started after about 5 seconds of cranking. The second time about a month later, I was far from home and it wouldn't start at all after refueling (again after topping off). I found something on the internet that said you can over-fill the tank and get fuel in/near the charcoal canister - causing some sort of safety shut-off to protect the canister from damage. So I tried to siphon some gas out but my siphon tube went in the filler pipe at least 36 inches without getting wet I figured over-filling was the issue. Eventually I got frustrated, cranked with wide open throttle and after about 5 seconds it started. I replaced the fuel line vent valve to fix the premature nozzle shut-off hoping it would fix both issues. After doing so I drove to the station and filled up with fuel - no premature shut-off of the nozzle this time. But again the car wouldn't start. Without hesitation this time I cranked with wide open throttle and it started after about 5 seconds. I found this link on the internet among others saying the cool fuel can prevent a worn piston from building pressure - http://www.fixya.com/cars/t3860084-after_fuel_fill_cap_removal_2003_996 Think my next trial will be to replace the fuel pump unless anyone has a better idea? Should I test the pump pressure first before replacing? It isn't throwing any fault codes - I'm getting some occasional idle surge with the engine is hot - just started recently. Last I checked (after the first incident) nothing jumped out at me on the Durametric. All advice and DIY links appreciated. Thx

Many thanks Ahsai

Sadly this link is no longer valid. Does anyone have a chart for the relays in each position of both panels? I'm specifically looking for the fuel pump and DME relays. Many thanks

I had the same problem (2000 w/ 90k miles) but cleaning the throttle plate resolved it for about 6 months. The plate was gummed up on the back side (could only see when pushed open). As noted above, when the plate finds its center point, the centering (clicking/vibrating) process stops. The centering difficulty and clicking re-appeared recently - I took the air box off and found both sides of the plate to be clean, though blasting the pivot pins with carb cleaner made it stop. Hopefully that is enough to solve the problem, though I may have to replace my body at some point too. Some background info - I had a bad air/oil separator that I let go too long and was likely sucking some oil into the intake. I speculate oil on the downstream side of my throttle body as the source of this body plate contamination, though have not had time to pull it apart to investigate.