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galtenbaugh

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Everything posted by galtenbaugh

  1. I have a 2000 Boxster that I've installed a 996 3.4L as a replacement for my blown 2.7L. I've been driving the car for a while now and I'm almost happy with the result but I have one last problem. For an intake I used a BMC Carbon airbox with a Cayman MAF housing epoxied to it, and then a series of 3.5" silicone elbows and tubes to the throttle body. I have a stock 2001 996 3.4 low emissions map from my dealer and an FVD Boxster 3.4L conversion map. The problem I'm having with both maps is that the engine is running fairly rich at full throttle. I recently installed a wide-band AFR meter and and at less than full throttle, it seems to be running fine with the airfuel ratio bouncing around 13:1. At full throttle it runs at around 10.5:1. My first question is whether this can be damaging to the engine if I do a track weekend running at 10.5:1. At Texas World Speedway, I'll be a full throttle most of the time. My fear is that this much gas will wash the oil off the cylinder walls. What should the AFR be at full throttle? 12.5:1? My second question is how can I fix this? I believe this is caused by the difference between the Cayman MAF housing venturi diameter of 82mm compared to the ID of the 996 at 85mm. That's about 7% difference in area? Has anyone else noticed this? I guess there are a few ways to fix it, reduce the voltage from the MAF by 7% or get a 85mm MAF housing, or ask FVD to adjust the map to account for the 7% difference. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! George
  2. Thanks Loren, that's exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if weld points = junction points. The reason I think I need to go deep on the wiring diagrams is because, besides the secondary air issue, I am having strange behavior from the car. It's a 2.7L conversion to a 3.4L and it just doesn't seem to have the HP it should. It dynoed at about 250 at the wheels and an Air fuel that was all over the map everything was very inconsistent and there are no other error codes. The shop owner, who is pretty experienced (won the Speed WC GT constructors championship for Porsche back in 2000), suspects it's a ground issue. So I bought a set of back probes for my multimeter and I'm ready to verify all the connections on the harness. As for not getting power to the secondary air pump, I'm afraid I didn't hook up the little red wire to the alternator when I swapped the harness. I even vaguely remember thinking it was a ground wire and bolting it to the block. Luckily it doesn't hook in with anything else so no harm done except an afternoon of taking the intake off the top of the engine again. Thanks again for your help. George I checked this morning and the red wire from the hot side if the fuse does appear to be grounded. I must have seen the wire with an eyelet attached and assumed it was a ground wire. If that's the only mistake I made moving the boxster harness to the 3.4, then I guess I'm happy. I remember now that I couldn't find a good place to ground it to, so I put it under the oil tube bolt. Didn't seem to be a great idea at the time and now that seems to be confirmed. Now I'm wondering how it passed inspection with the secondary air not working. I suspect the tuner map that I had installed at the time suppressed the check engine light. The CEL didn't show up until I went back to the stock map. All starting to make sense now...
  3. Thanks Loren, that's exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if weld points = junction points. The reason I think I need to go deep on the wiring diagrams is because, besides the secondary air issue, I am having strange behavior from the car. It's a 2.7L conversion to a 3.4L and it just doesn't seem to have the HP it should. It dynoed at about 250 at the wheels and an Air fuel that was all over the map everything was very inconsistent and there are no other error codes. The shop owner, who is pretty experienced (won the Speed WC GT constructors championship for Porsche back in 2000), suspects it's a ground issue. So I bought a set of back probes for my multimeter and I'm ready to verify all the connections on the harness. As for not getting power to the secondary air pump, I'm afraid I didn't hook up the little red wire to the alternator when I swapped the harness. I even vaguely remember thinking it was a ground wire and bolting it to the block. Luckily it doesn't hook in with anything else so no harm done except an afternoon of taking the intake off the top of the engine again. Thanks again for your help. George
  4. Do the wiring diagrams show where the junction points are? It doesn't matter for the problem that I'm working on, it's just bugging me that I can't find something in the diagrams. Are the locations of the junctions identified anywhere? I just want to make sure I can read all aspects of the diagrams. George
  5. Yes it's P0410 and P1411. I've determined that I'm not getting power from the generator to post 30 of the relay. Given that this is a 3.4L conversion and I started getting the codes soon after having the alternator replaced at the dealer, this isn't surprising. Either I messed something up with the wiring harness when I converted or something got left off or nicked when the alternator was replaced. I'll have to take off the intake (which I need to do anyway for another reason) and take a look at the back of the alternator. But I'm curious what the box labeled 26 on your diagram means and how can I find where it goes. I'm assuming that it represents an off page connector to another page of the wiring diagram but where? Thanks! George Here are the diagnostic for those fault codes. Check triggering of AIR pump. 1. Check fuse (Maxi Fuse) of AIR pump (on relay carrier 2). 2. Remove relay of AIR pump (on relay carrier 2). Connect voltmeter to pin 3 and ground. Display: battery voltage Connect voltmeter to pin 2 (negative) and pin 7 (positive). Start engine (the DME relay must pick up). Display: battery voltage If 0 V is indicated, check wiring from pin 2 to DME control module, pin III/11, for continuity. Push relay back on. Check electric change-over valve. 1. Remove two-pole connector of electric change-over valve. 2. Connect voltmeter to pin 1 (positive) and pin 2 (negative). 3. Trigger AIR pump with Porsche System Tester 2. Display: battery voltage 4. Remove vacuum hose of electric change-over valve with the engine running. Check whether vacuum is present. 3. Remove connector of AIR pump. Connect voltmeter to pin 1 (positive) and pin 2 (negative). Trigger AIR pump with Porsche System Tester 2. Display: battery voltage Check air change-over valve and air supply lines. 1. Run engine briefly to produce vacuum. 2. Trigger AIR pump with Porsche System Tester 2. 3. Remove vacuum hose of air change-over valve. If vacuum is present at the air change-over valve, check air supply from the AIR pump to the changeover valve up to the air supply line to the cylinder heads. Check function of air change-over valve. I should have been more clear. I'm really asking how to read the wiring diagram. I don't know what boxes 26 and 9 represent on the factory wiring diagrams and your diagram. I've already determined that my relay is opening and closing properly but there is no current getting to connector 30 on the relay from the alternator. Thanks! George
  6. Yes it's P0410 and P1411. I've determined that I'm not getting power from the generator to post 30 of the relay. Given that this is a 3.4L conversion and I started getting the codes soon after having the alternator replaced at the dealer, this isn't surprising. Either I messed something up with the wiring harness when I converted or something got left off or nicked when the alternator was replaced. I'll have to take off the intake (which I need to do anyway for another reason) and take a look at the back of the alternator. But I'm curious what the box labeled 26 on your diagram means and how can I find where it goes. I'm assuming that it represents an off page connector to another page of the wiring diagram but where? Thanks! George
  7. I'm trying to diagnose a Secondary Air problem by tracing the wiring diagrams. My pump doesn't come on, but I've confirmed that the pump and the relay are both working. On the wiring diagram sheet 19 for the 2000 Boxster, there is a box with the number 26 in it at grid E187. There are a number of RE/BL wires terminating into this box but I can't figure out where this junction is in the car. I know it is a positive (+) voltage, but I can't find what the box represents or where box 26 leads to. I have determined that the lead from the alternator to the secondary air fuse is dead so box 26 is not part of the solution, but I am curious what the boxes are and how to trace their sources and locations. George
  8. I have my car on jack stands all the time, including the 3ft high 12 ton stands I used to replace my engine, and the thing I found to be a life save is a pinch seam jack adapter: http://www.eastwood.com/floor-jack-adapter...model-cars.html I place my jack with this adapter on the seam just in front of the rear jack point leaving just enough room to slide the jack stand under the rear jack point without hitting the jack. I then jack the car high enough to slide in the front and rear jack stands. Repeat for other side. The pinch seam adapter is much better than the cut out 2x4 I was using on the seam and seems safer.
  9. I have a 2000 Boxster that I've installed a 3.4L 996 motor in and I've been wrestling with providing a proper intake for the MAF to get an accurate reading. Through help from Todd on this board, I think I have the problem solved, but I believe that these values will confirm. Does anyone know what the baseline values should be for a 3.4L motor? What is the acceptable range? What affects these values? Thanks! George
  10. Checking for leaks it an excellent idea. The easiest way to check is to find a shop that has a smoke generator. They plug up the intake and inject pressurized smoke into the engine. It will cost you an hour's labor at the shop but it will save you countless hours of manually looking for leaks. When I did it after finishing my 3.4L Boxster conversion my shop found 3 leaks, 2 of which I never would have found on my own. George
  11. Do you know what the spec readings are for the MAF? George Model and year of your car? It's a 3.4L 996 motor in a 2000 Boxster.
  12. I have installed a 3.4L crate motor in my 2000 Boxster and I'm having some trouble getting a valid signal from the MAF. I've stumbled through a number of configurations and nothing has worked so far. Currently I have the Boxster airbox with the MAF hole covered, a 90 degree elbow, a MAF housing cut out of a 996 airbox, a 12" silicone tube, and then a final 90 elbow going into the throttle body. I have a FVD 3.4L Boxster Conversion Mapping. I dyno'd the car and the AF ratio is erratic and very rich (as rich as 10:1). I know now that putting the MAF after a 90 degree elbow is never going to work because of the turbulence introduced by the elbow. Tonight I'm going to move the housing to the middle of the 12" tube but that's probably not ideal. The MAF should probably be right after the filter, before the airstream is disturbed. TTP makes 3.4L Boxster Conversion airbox at http://www.t-t-p.de/english/airbox.php but they want $1500 for it. That seems a bit pricey. What have other's done? Does anyone make a MAF housing that would work? I believe that the 996 MAF housing has an inside diameter of about 85mm. Thanks for any suggestions. George
  13. No it is not a stupid question, the problem people have encounted with the 3.6L in any Boxster older than 2002 is the wiring and ECU. If you go on Ruf's web site they show 3.4L for 2001 & 2002 and 3.6L for 2002, 03 & 04. There is an engine builder who will take your engine and turn it into a 4L motor approaching 400hp. The builder I talked to is Protomotive in Southern California just south of Riverside. You can get to their web site at www.geocities.com/protomotive. Todd was the guy I talked with about a year ago. I sure there are other builders out there that can do the job. Good luck, Larry But does anyone know for sure, what has to be replaced when you put a 3.6L in a 2000 Boxster? The 2000 Boxster has eGas but not Variocam Plus. A flash obviously has to be done, but do you need to replace the DME? The 2000 Boxster comes with DME part number 996.618.605.00. The 03- 996 switched over to DME part number 996.618.604.00. Does anyone know the difference between these two parts? Can the 996.618.605.00 DME be retrofitted with a pin or two to talk to the Variocam Plus? Thanks!
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