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01slvr996
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Everything posted by 01slvr996
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I replaced my fuel pump in my 01 C2 and now my gauge never reads full, only 3/4. Just want to confirm for my car it is 12 liters; and nothing has changed in the last 4 years. -
Ahsai and JFP, you guys would recommend the ceramic bearing over the IMS solution?
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Should I message Jake? Or call LN? Can remove/reuse the flange to inspect the IMS?
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That diagram looks like my trans but it says bolt C has a washer, and none of my bolts had a washer upon removal...... upon removal I had them all perfectly set aside, unfortunately a silver marker and some tape would have saved me the headache of bumping them; live and learn.
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I have searched and scoured what feels like the deep bowls of all things 996, I found one for the boxster and one for a 996 but they only discuss 7 of the 8 transmission bolts. I'm hoping this is an easy one, does anyone have a diagram showing the bolt size and hole of all 8 bolts on the transmission? Upon removing the transmission my creeper bumped my bolts and I'm not sure which ones goes where. Thank you in advance for saving me from myself.
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Woo! thanks Ahsai, I bought the RMS and AOS already, kinda expected to do it all. Is my IMS a dual row? Any special need/way to clean the Oil heat exchanger?
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I noticed a really significant oil leak recently coming from the bell housing over the past few weeks, and since my car is a 2001, planned to dig in deep to my IMS once everything was apart. Looks like it's the RMS leaking oil everywhere, BUT I also noticed I have what looks like blow by all over the top of my rear manifolds, and what looks like calcium deposits coming from what I think is the oil cooler...... Lastly I think I have a dual row IMS, can someone else please confirm? And lastly, for the million dollar question, is it worth replacing? IMS solution or LN bearing?
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Our cars are transaxle differentials, that being said i'm sure its a matter of splitting the tail shaft from the bell housing and moving parts from one to the next, definitely not as easy as a ring and pinion setup on good 'ol American cars.
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Clutch Slave Cylinder Boot
01slvr996 replied to 01slvr996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Thanks Loren, new part ordered and my master plan of not having to bleed my clutch system has been foiled. -
I'm finally getting around to replacing my RMS, clutch, and IMS. I got the transmission dropped tonight and in the process of taking the clutch slave cylinder off saw a tiny hole in the boot leaking a bit of fluid. My clutch has never given me issues, I've actually never had to add any fluid in the 7 years of owning the car. The boot was caked with oil and stuff, did i tear the boot when i took it out? If so can I buy just a replacement boot and will I need to bleed the whole system? And to think i was going to be able to do this without breaking anything.......
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CEL - Code is P0455
01slvr996 replied to esymonds's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Hey man, I just dealt with this code, my culprit was the vent valve line on the fuel pump, under the battery compartment. Mine had completely broken off, your's could be clogged or pinched. I found my problem by unplugging the line at the regeneration valve in the throttle body and blowing some compressed air into it. -
Hey all, I want to thank everyone's input and advice to tackling this problem, I have an update! I hope Loren or others can step in and give me some .02 and anyone else with this issue can hopefully learn from this. I replaced the vent valve, while inside the wheel well i also inspected all lines and connections, everything was nice and tight, and nothing looked cracked or broken. I buttoned everything up and reset the code, 60 miles later it came back. Discouraged and bummed I starting tracing the purge valve line from the engine towards the front, and i blew some compressed air into the line. I could hear air leaking at the battery compartment. Pulled the battery out and looked at the fuel pump hoping to find something unplugged; of course that would be way to easy. I found this insted. The nipple on the fuel pump, that connects to the evap line, that connects to the purge valve, was completely broken off, and the line was just resting against the pump. My question to all, The part number is a "996 620 022 00" however pelican shows nada. Is this part of the pump or the sender unit? Can I this piece without replacing the entire pump? WHY IN THE HECK IS THIS PLASTIC?! Thanks to all who helped track this down, now i can't wait to get everyones option on how to fix it :)
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Sounds like a fuse to me, not sure which one, but I bet there's a separate fuse if your windows are rolling up and down.
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Pressed, you had the same error code? I'll pull the wheel liner and take a look at the valve, the car is a garage queen; so I's totally possible a spider has found a home in my vent valve. When would you hear the bottle blowing sound? Car on warm? Shutting car off? A few people talk about a gas cap suction test, but i couldnt find anything on how exactly that test works. Porschedane, do you have a link to the one you bought or used? all the ones I've seen the nozzle is too big to put a piece of house over.
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DB this help tremendously, Is there anyway to test either or both valve with 12 volts? I have a Durametric, is there anything i can test with that to help narrow the problem or test the valves?
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Checked it and swapped it with a friends Cayman, light came back on mine, not on his.
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My Evap system is once again on the fritz, I posted last year trying to solve a CEL P0442, And after cleaning my Regeneration valve (valve near the throttle body) and having that code go away, I am now trying to track down a gross system leak triggering a P0455. I bought and installed a new regeneration valve, as I figured maybe the old one just failed; not the case. Here's what I have conducted thus far, I'm hoping some of our evap system experts can chime in. The light comes back on around driving 60 miles after resetting the light. The Idle seems a little irridiac at stop lights, I'm talking maybe an 80rpm fluctuation up and down; something I don't remember the car always doing. The Car won't fill up a fill tank with one continuous fill up, It generally clicks off 3/4 or 7/8 full and I have to slowly fill the rest of the way or turn the handle upside down. The regeneration valve, the one next to the throttle body in the engine bay, If i disconnect it, and run some compressed air through it towards the evap can, I can hear the air leaking out around The front passenger under hood area, is this normal? Should the system be sealed with the car off? Is this the evap can? Where does the line that connects to the regeneration valve in the engine bay start?
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Good call, I'll go grab one this week and report back.
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Ahsai, is it a safe to conclude i should spend the 250 and special order this part? Anyone else have anything to chime in?
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Thats exactly the kind of pump that i have, a vacuum hand pump and I've tested with max PSI of 15. But isn't it only testing vacuum under out load? IE its a "pushing" vacuum test, not a sucking one. My hand pump was hooked up going to the end that connects to the plastic line that comes from the evap. I filled with 15 PSI and watched as it dropped as i held it. Ahsai, are you saying i need to pressurize from the other side of the valve? From the valve that hooks into the TB?
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Wonderful! Ahsai, the pump type that I have can only pressurize going "out" if that makes sense. So if i put it on the end the connects to the TB it can only "blow" air back towards the evap, and test that pressure. Is that the correct way to test?
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Hey all, Just wanted to follow up, I have a question only a porsche master can answer (JFF looking at you) I got a vacuum tester from autozone and started checking lines and valves for how they would hold pressure/if i hear any air leaking. Almost immediately I noticed that the the air purge vent valve, (P/N 0280142380 the little can thing in the engine compartment that connects to the throttle body) won't hold solid pressure, it loses air, roughly 1psi every 45 seconds I want to make sure of 2 things. 1. Is the flow of air front to back? IE I should be pressurizing this thing with airflow going into the throttle body? 2. With the car off, should this valve hold pressure? any help or insight would be great.
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"scattered" sounds terrifying is there a diagram or something i should be cross referencing as I begin tearing my car apart?
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All great info. Jeff, are you talking about the flex lines on the canister?
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Oh boy..... Jeff any useful insight as to what hoses to start with? I assume with the passenger wheel liner off I need to pull the evap canister and check all of those? Any other hoses I should be aware of? Any in the engine i should check?
