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It is the steering lock assembly. It is a known issue. Porsche redesigned the part several times. Go to your dealer for the part. Disassembling the dask is not difficult, just takes awhile. Go slow. have fun.

Take note: if confused on the procedure, google the Mecedes Benz part number and hopefully you will find ZF Getreibe's manual on this transmission. In it will be the fill procedure. this is what I did for my '99. Also, the ZF fill procedure is slightly different that Porsche's. BEWARE: temperature probes can get stuck in your transmission. Mine did. BEWARE: temperature probes and IR thermometers inaccurately represent the temperature of the oil, especially if you perform this procedure in the winter in your garage. This is how I got it wrong the first time. I discovered the problem when I was on the track during DE. The tranny slipped during turns and went into limp mode. If your software can not read the TCU, then try AutoEnginuity's. This is what I use.

Agreed, take engine apart, steam clean all major components, inspect cylinger walls for scoring, inspect oil pump for damage, flush oil lines and heat exchanger. Depending upon damage will determine your next step. Best case: perform a minor rebuild to replace all bearings and piston rings,and have the cylinders hones. After re-assembly, use a oil drain plug with a magnet in it.

My Tip did the same thing. Low tranny fluid was the culprit. Eventually it will throw a CEL, undefined Tiptronic code 0040.

I have a AutoEnginuity. Works well. Essential for diagnostics.

Buy a Porsche specific reader. I own an AutoEnginuity. It sounds like low fuel pressure. Then the fuel pump catches up and all is good. My Volvo did this to me. A pain to diagnose because it was intermittent.

Sounds like the fluid is way low. Just had the same problem. But it should have thrown TIP code 0040. Did the shop know how to properly fill the transmission? The ONLY two aprroved fluids sold in America is ESSO and Pentosin. I used Pentosin. When you dump the fluid only 3.5 of 9 liters comes out. ZF has transmission service shop in the US. It is not the TCU. The valve body can be rebuilt. But you may have burnt the 3rd gear clutch pack. There are 7 clutches in the Tiptronic.ZF has service centers in the US.

I just replaced the brake fluid as required for track days. Here are some notes: I used a 1/4" ID tube, a 3/16" would have been better. The original fluid was clear yellow and so was the replacement. So I calculated that since I had 3 feet of hose, 3 complete hosefuls would equal the volume of fluid held by the brake lines in the longest section of pipe (RR). Also, since the ID of brake lines in 1/8" the 1/4" bleed tubes hold 4 times the volume. This extra volume is used for the pistons. Porsche states the brake system capacity is .4 L. I used .75 L. I held the tube straight up until it filled, then closed the valve, dumped the fluid, and repeated. A MightyVac is a great tool to evacuate the fluid reservior. This initial fluid leaving the pistons was cloudy with bubbles. This inital spongenous of pedal travel is gone. Now there is a noticeable sharp bite after the first 1 1/2" of travel. I used Pentosin for track use, but any DOT 4 will work for daily driving.

Had a similiar problem and it kept blowing fuses. It turned out to be a dime stuck in the axle gear of the seat. Removal is easy. Remove the four plastic mount covers and remove the four bolts. then disconnect the electrical plugs. I had the seat leaning sideways when the offending dime appeared. Good luck. No there is no manual adjustment. Try activating the seat adjusters when the seat is leaning sideways, perhaps you'll see the mechanism bind.

LDRHOADES, Use a bottle jack. Press the screw extractor in with it. Lift the car only about 1/2 inch. this should seat the extractor. Break the torque, then release the jack. It took less than a minute. When replacing the plug, ensure the allen wrench is completely seated. Also, allow the engine to cool down before insert cold plug. Torque to spec. NEVER use steel or stainless steal. They will corrode the aluminum. Has anyone worked on a motorcycle?

How do lubricate a seat? Mine seams to be drawing too much current.

The lowest point on my '99 996 Tip is the radiator hose to the hose. I found this out the hard way. If you bottom out your Porsche, the hose gets scuffed and can cause a leak. After a good person warned me I was spewing something bad, I pulled over and saw the problem. Here's is what to do: If there is an auto parts store really nearby, race to it. Otherwise shut it down. Hopefully, your are in the city and can get the the auto parts store. If not, tow it. Buy a section of 1 inch radiator hose, straight, and two 1 1/2 inch hose clamps. Cut the hose about an inch longer than the tear. Slit open the hose. Wrap the new hose around the tear and secure using the two clamps. My tear was next to the engine inlet, so I had to remove the old clamp. If so, make sure you place the new clamp around the inlet. Note: if the leak stops spewing before you can fix it, you lost about three gallons of coolant. Allow the engine to cool. Then fill with coolant, 50/50 pre-mix. There will be trapped air. Note: even though the temp gage says its cool, the coolant may still boil over. If so, wait more. Check for leaks in the patch. Now drive the car a short way, keep an eye on the temp gage, aim towards a car wash. If the temperature climbs towards overheating, stop and allow to cool. Check for leaks. At the car wash, was car of all coolant and cool down the engine. The fill with coolant. There may still be air trapped, but you shouldn't have to wait for the engine to cool before filling the coolant tank. Now drive car cautiously. Look for the coolant level warning light. It is next to the over heat light on the temp gage. If it goes off, stop and fill with coolant. The patch should hold until you get a new hose. I am going to leave the patch on the new hose in order to protect it.

I own a 99 NA Cab with Tip. I asked a freind about converting to a manual gearbox. He said "just buy another car". He'd did it on his Boxster. There are so many little things too replace. Turbo: you will also need to get a different airbox and exhaust system to handle the increased air flow. Any increase in HP requires an increase in airflow. Its chemistry not magic. Turbo on a NA engine? Too high compression ratio. Supercharge a NA engine? A great way to boost the low end. I am thinking about too.

Engine braking is possible, but why? It puts additional wear on the transmission. Brakes are cheaper to replace. When you brake, the transmission downshifts under a no load condition. It downshifts so that when you re-engage the transmission (put your foot on the gas) it will be in the correct gear (no engine lobbing).

Yes, SmartTop will do this but why? I live in an area where 40 mph wind gusts are normal, and Semis get knocked over often (northern Utah). A wind gust would destroy the top. I don't activate the top when it is windys or while in the canyons.