violaGT3

Many thanks for finding the info I was going to do a query for something along those lines but I went ahead and gave them a call I want to further investigate the possibility of a linking issue. I'm thinking that if it is possible for some kind of jarring bump or something along those lines to have possibly have bent a linkage just enough to prevent it from fully engaging second. For my understanding that if it was just the syncros I would not be able to get it into it's proper position at all unless as the gears would never mate in the right spot unless you just coasted long enough for them to get to the right point for them to mesh but I cannot get them to engage all the way even with them meshing. So I am going to entertain the possibility of either the selector fork or a linkage being bent. I think it is very possible as here in KC there are horrible unattended potholes and that's not to mention the MO side of KC holy moses some of their roads look like original concrete prototypes roads when we switched from cobblestone! Rediculous, Doesn't some one get paid to maintain the roads?

Hey hows it going? That is exactly how it feels. I mean exactly but I cannot figure out why it would only be in 2nd that I would run in to it. I adjusted the B&M from one extreme to the other with no benifit. Over engaging the odd gears and then to over engage the even gears, but to my dismay there was no change. When I shift I depress the pedal and pull it from first to second and holding the shifter back when I slowly release the clutch it goes from quiet to me feeling the teeth barely biting and then when the clutch is engaged it just feels like theres only 2mm worth of the teeth actually touching and it just goes BRrrrrrrup and misses. I described it to Karl from Imagine Auto as picture fitting a piston into it's sleeve and if it's perfect then it slides in smooth well it feels like on of the rings is snagging on the sleeve and keeping it from going all the way in. When I try and shift, it just like you said that one gear is just not engaging and with the clutch depressed it is partially engaged but when you slowly release the clutch and it grabs the torque beats out the little bite it has and it jumps out. Where can I try and check the linkage I will take a competant mans approach but it will be in ignorance of the subject. I understand tranny's fit and function but the ever so concealed 996 is a real bugger asside from the fact mine sits 2.5 inches off the ground. The rear Champion 3pc. wheels are tucked. If anyone has a schematic or two I would be indebted and I will post all my findings should it be a gremlin in the system and not just general tranny failure! Thanks

Just spoke with Sun Coast and their option at this point is a reman. and it will take 1 month to get as it has to come from Germany, for $5900 and change plus roughly $600 in shipping w/ core return and a $1200 Core charge. They do not have any new ones avail. at $8200 and change no core and only $300 shipping, they also said that it isn't showing that there are any avail. in Germany either. I would like to find out about getting the replacement parts Syncros and other necessary items required to do the 2nd gear syncro replacement. Please if someone knows how to get ahold of these please let me know the details or if you had the work done please let me know. It looks like I will have the clutch, tranny, and RMS done at the same time so I would like to keep the parts price reasonable as possible, The clutch kit is onlyh $405 through them so that is good news and the RMS is a stop at a fast food joint Yea!

Hmm, I just recently changed to Royal Purple as I could not get ahold of the recommended Shell some of the Porsche Gu's said is great. It did not offer me great differences (allthough it is nightmarish cold conditions and just generally weather wise in KC right now). I just came back from Imagine Auto and Karl checked it out and gave it a run around the block. He said that the Syncro's are definately apart of the issue but the clutch pedal is tougher than it should be and it is commonly related to a arm in the clutch assembly. I would really like to be able to just have the syncro's replaced(as the rest of the tranny is completely flawless) does anyone know of a reputable place to have the work done?? right now I am going to end up replacing the clutch as for he mileage and it looks like I'll be replacing/ repairing the tranny which ever is the most cost effective I do no nearly drive this car enough to straight up go for a completely new tranny. I mean just for the aspect of the money, I put about 3-5kmls on this car a year. I do not for see using up another 80kmls with this car I'm sure by then I will like the 997's which are just tooooo refined for my taste. I like the exotic smooth artful lines found in the 996's the 997's have an abstract sharp clean cut MR2 feel to me. Feels more like a Japanese product then a German one. "My Opinion" Also if some one knows the prices and locations to get New, Used ,Reman. trannies please let me know I know that LA Dism. occasionly has on in stock. But I would like to have options. I will more than likely have Imagine Auto do the install for me. Would it be wise to hit the RMS while this takes place??? Many Thanks!

About the amount of pressure to actuate the clutch, her Jetta's clutch takes a just a tad over an exhale to move the clutch pedal, feels really out of touch. I think the pedal feel of the porsche would generally uncomfortable for the averge driver. I think I'll stop by Imagine Auto and see if I can do a comparison.

That sounds like a plan but I wanted to see if there was a way to know prior to having labor charges for removing the tranny to do the clutch and then find out and have to do the tranny too.

Well it is a little harder to depress than other makes. but it is even all the way down. My girlfriend has a problem pushing it down.

Hi all. I am considering a new tranny for my 99' C2 Coupe, but I still have a problem with that idea. I started to have difficulty to get it to shift into 2nd period when cold. But later noticed that I was not nearly depressing the clutch pedal all the way and when I conciencously did depress it all the way it would work fine. But now it is inescapable! I adjusted the B&M top mount and it is set correctly. Here's a step by step as though your we're in the car yourself. I get in start the car, then I put it into 1st flawlessly, then while barely moving I shift to 2nd and release the shifter when I let off of the pedal, I hear a minute sound of the teeth or something barely touching no grind or anything like that just a slight errrrrrrrrrrrrr sound like the gears are resting next to one another. If I hold the shifter pulling it towards some times it goes in gear some times it says OOOUUUCCCHHH (not good at all). Now after I drive the car for about 30 minutes I am only having minor issues like the occasional not seating properly but it is getting worse than before I had absolutely no problems what so ever when it was warm now it seems as though it is a game of blackjack against the house. I am wondering if it could be a minor case of the syncro blues and a progressing case of the clutch blues, this thought only brought on by the fact that if I use my 225lb body to put the clutch pedal on the floor then it was affecting the shifting. I think it to be normal for the clutch to not have to go to the floor. There is absolutely no clutch slipping at all. Someone please let me know what you can. I drive on average 80mph, but I am not rough on the car. This is my highway speed, Here in KCKS the roads are too bad to drive to qiuckly off the freeway. Many Thanks in advance! Oh and if it helps it has 75kmls. Only one problem with the mechanics period around Xmas the tensioner bearing fell off, litterally, on the freeway, in the middle of backwoods Indiana, on the way to the Parents for the holiday, at 4 am, Suncoast motors got me a new one nearly overnight! Simply pulled airbox and fitted the new one in 1 hour! Big Props to SunCoast, the Indiana dealer said it would take more then a week! Oh #2 if it helps anyone all gears are flawless except entering or exiting 2nd. I was thinking the clutch may be involved as moving the pedal further allowed it to engage 2nd, so I gathered that maybe with the rest of the gears being perfect mesh the clutch would get away with not dissengaging completely, but with the 2nd gear syncro being slighty off as I understand is ever so common with the 6 speed gear box until 03'. It is like the 2nd gear shift is falling short, like if it was on a swing arm and it needed to go 3"'s to engage it feels like it is falling short by like 1/2".

Yes I do mean the stock TT brakes (AKA Big Reds) Thank you for the Specs. You are a lifesaver!

Comments withdrawn

Hey guys I'm parting ways with a set of 04 TT BigReds and someone wants to know if the rotors are the same size as the 04 GT3's> Anyone have a clue I tried to get the specs, but no luck. Thanks! :renntech:

Hi I also had the same thing a quick way to test it is to open the door use a screwdriver the actuate/close the catch to simulate the door being shut then pull the outer handle to check its actuator, which cannot be seen less removing the door panel and interior lining, then check the interior one the same way. you can see the interior handle switch use a flashlight and with the door open pull on the int. handle then look behind it towards its hinge point you will see a small rectangular thing with a 1/8" pin/protrusion. That is the switch if niether one works you may have an elec. issue. Good Luck with it. Jim

I have experienced this noise in one of my old race cars. it had to do with the steering wheel pulling on the steering shaft, I'm not sure as to how you could of had this happen during driving though. Is there some possibility of damage in the front suspension bushings and links? Like maybe you hit a hard bump in the road or a pothole? I would most definately remove the airbag and inspect it while making the noise to get a better idea. But before you remonve the steering wheel I would inspect the front suspension for weak/broken bushings or possibly bent tie rods. Do any of your cars track off ie. pull to one side or the other? It is harder to tell in 996's due to their pwer steering but you would still tend to notice if you let off the wheel on a straightaway. There is a possibility that if this car has the old school feeler arms instead of contact pins that one of the feelers is out of place but that is highly doubted/ impossible. If you inspect the front end and all appears even and well. Then move inside the car and listen with your head by the pedals to the hear if the joint is rubbing at all. I can only tell you this the noise is because the shaft that the steering wheel is bolted to is stressed for some reason or another. Best of luck with it! Jim=)

Yea I was seriously hoping it would just be something silly like when Loren explained why my one touch windows were not working after installg a new Optima Battery. I replaced the battery in the remote at the same time some 7-8 months ago. Oh Well

Hi well I was able to read through and find the re-boot procedure Loren posted (open remote and place the battery in backwards for 10 secs.) but ultimately I was unable to correct the problem. Good Luck with yours. Jim

Well it did not do it. I am just about to give up this makes absolutely no sense. When I get back to KC I'll go to the dealer their and see what the deal is. I know they can test them. Is it possible that the 2032 battery is the problem I would think it is exactly the same as the 2025 other then its capacity. Also is there a possiblity that something in the car like a fuse or something is behind this. I had to replace the battery as the Optima Red Top I bought 3 months before I left was completely dead and would not take a charge??? :censored:

To reset it just unlock it with the key and hit the remote unlock within 10 seconds. OK I'll give it a try. I hope it does the trick as I went to the Dealer here in Wichita and well let's just say they were less then helpful, curtious, concerned, interested, and well they had a whole 4 porsches at their dealership, so I am assuming that when he said they were really busy( in the distance a tumbleweed rolling along) he meant that the Porsche service center, ie. him, was really busy. There was only one other customer at the entire dealership, and they were there to get a LEX fixed??? Oh well no love. :huh:

Hi Loren, how do I get it to function as normal again? I have manually locked and unlocked 3-4 times.

Hi just got back from Baghdad and went to fire my baby up and well she wouldn't unlock? So I did it manually and went to the store to pick up a remote battery. I took a spare remote fob I bought online to use for a spare housing and well first I noticed that the spare fob had a 2032 cell in it and the one that was in the original remote was a 2025 cell? It seemed as thought there was enough room as the 2025 cell could move a little but had worked with no problems until I got back. But the other battery was a very good looking Swiss cell so I bought the 2032 to try it out. Well all the the batteries stated made the little red LED flash but none of them worked for remote operations??? Is there something I am missing here I have thuroughly inspected the chip and it looks as new. I had gotten it to work once or twice by pressing it at odd angles but now it just does not work. Oh yeah and on a little tip. Do not disassasemble the fob and attempt to manually unlock the car. very loud, and very annoying in a dark mall parking lot. Many Thanks. Jim

Well said and too true.

Hmmm I have thought about this arguement myself before but all the work to my cars is done by the dealership. Simply because I haven't had the time to hit all the other little maintenance checks, and I do not really know them I'm sure they are here somewhere but even still I am in Baghdad right now so if I did find them I would probably forget by the time I got home. Ha Ha Do you run a 5w or what? P.S. are you running a EVOM and if you are how do you like it. My C2 is headed that direction.

Well if you have one let's say I am interested. and help me with your acronyms LWFW? I am planning on running an Evo SC on the car and well Yadda Yadda Yadda. Please let me know Thanks. JR Ouch after rereading Loren's note its not going to work. Darn it.

Hi I changed the info to add that it was an 04 GT3 clutch. I would really like to know for sure as I would not want to buy one from someone and then find out it would not work. I was assuming that the flywheels would be different so I would have to use the whole setup. Please let me know if this helps clarify. Thanks JR

HiI had the samething on my 99C2 @50kmls. After much reading and help from the guys it was determined to be the rear main seal (RMS) and well the end note was if it is not leaking directly then it's not much to worry about. But if you clean the area and notice it leaking like drops then you should look into it but it is costly. JR

Ahso say the blind man, I tinks I'll be sticken with the shell, do you use the Porsche approved 0w40?