violaGT3

No thanks. I'll do that to my weed wacker!! RFM Not alot of people know what leaded gas was all about and it sounds crazy to them to add 2 cycle oil to their gas for the purpouse of lubing the seals, cleaning out the injectors and such. But I know of an assorted few did it with too much oil and fouled their o2 sensors and now they choose not to do it either. A friend asked about what to do to clean out his system and such I told him to add a pint of generic 2 stroke to a full tank of gas. He added a quart to half a tank, of course he is one of those guys who is too important to himself to really listen to what anyone has to say. I might add that he saw me using rubbing compound and a clay bar on my paint and loved what it did so he bought himself some heavy duty rubbing compound, and screwed his paint up, bad. One of these days he'll figure it out. Good info used improperly.

A short digression... Well, back in the day, I had a 2003 350z Track model and my friend had a 2003 350z Touring model. My Track model had factory 12.75" rotors front and rear w/ Brembo 4/2 pot calipers while his Touring model had those sub 12" rotors w/ 2 pot sliding calipers. On our first DE, he had braking issues (heavy pad and fluid fade) while mine held up ok except for the uneven deposition I got on the rotors. I simply had my rotors turned to remove the deposition while he upgraded to a 13" Stoptech BBK. A few DE's later, hairline cracks started developing on my solid 12.75" rotors. At $500 per factory rotor, the 350z Track model quickly lost its allure for a cheap track platform. Granted that I had the rotors turned to remove the deposition, they were still w/in spec. But if I could crack solid rotors in a few DE's, just think what would happen if I slapped aftermarket cross-drilled rotors w/o increasing rotor width or diameter... ///Michael Hi granted the Diameter is a big part of big braking, having cross drilled rotors would of helped in cooling efficiency that would of helped prevent the overheating that caused your rotors to crack. But you witnessed the difference between Porsche cost and sport car cost. Oddly enough I know alot of people who 1/4 mile quite well with tuner cars >10< sec. But their cars are weight reduced by and average of 500#'s and it does not envolve cycling the brakes. They do allright with simple Green Stuff pads and After-m's drilled rotors. For those not in the know 1900# 2100 with driver Bertone X1/9 running a Dodge Turbo III Motor and A55 Tranny Pushing 630hp. It's pretty quick, but keeps tearing the rear tower. 9.46@142mph. It cannot be driven on the street safely.

Ahhsoo, It is easy to get to. I am sure that with what is shown by locating the wire colors one could deduct the location of the wires needed and be good to go. When my car gets back from the shop, I may very well do it and possibly even a write up on it. Thanks for the help. I am sure that Scott449 can do it from this. GL

That is helpfur But I do not know where the brain is. I that is the whole schematic then it sholud be very easy once the location of the brain is. So come on Pinky where is the Brain?

Sure it'll work it seems but I believe that had already been mentioned. If he would like it to chirp with the flashing of the lights then he could simply find the signal wire then get a power and a ground a generic relay and a trigger wire, and be done with it. That would be the real world way to do it whether routing it to the horn or aftermarket buzzer.

Why would you get any oil on the MAF when I suggested sucking the oil into the intake? The intake begins at the throttlebody. I did not suggest putting oil in the air cleaner. My Apologies, I assumed that you needed the MAF for the car to run. I also did not know the intake begins at the throttle body. You learn something new everyday here. So what is it that the AFM is a part of fuel injection? I usually have to sketch it into my ram air systems that I build? It seems that it is popular to push the car after storing, oddly I haven't seen anyone do it to their race cars that they store for the winter. The only topic that ever came up was ensuring that the fuel was either out or stabilized. But if it keeps your concious clear then all the best and when my engine goes I'll remember to do it next time. :D Sorry for the confusion.

Hmm, does seem kind of odd with the airflow meter if the oil gets on it you have a good probability of it paying you back next spring? I run 2 cycle in my gas from time to time for the purpouse of lubing, conditioning, and cleaning the system. I am sure with a carb you would be just fine or even a draft meter but these new diodee thingies. I would not go there I have heard of people having issues because of the oil from thier filters getting on the AFM diodee thingee. As for the putting into 6th, eh? Hmm it might work for lubing the mains, but picture a liquid pump designed to operate between 1,000 and 7,000 RPM's Now picture it operationg at 5 RPM's? If you are capable of pushing the car at a rate to match 1,000 RPM's, PLEASE forgive me you wonderful person. If not bump the key, There will be oil that has not burned off on the rings and it will ensure you do not damage the cylinders. They are spec'd very tight and idle will not prematurely wear out your sleeves. So rest easy and use Fuel stabilizer. Disclaimer: This statement is intended to treat, cure, diagnose or prevent any disease. So smoke'em if you got 'em

Two GM engineers tested 2-3 cross-drilled braking systems and 2-3 solid-face braking systems. The pictures blurred anything on the rotors that could identify the braking systems they tested. It's a 28 page analysis/report with quite a bit of technical mumbo-jumbo. They made a few observations (including the obvious of cracks developing around the holes), but the one that pertains to my reply is that cross-drilled rotors do improve brake cooling over solid-face rotors. Furthermore, the cooling rate increases as speed increases. Of course, rotor design also plays an important factor. It is possible to put too many holes in a cross-drilled rotor or place them ineffectively. The SAE article is locked w/ DRM on my personal laptop. If anybody is interested, then I'll also summarize the other observations that they noted in their conclusion if I get some time this evening. In the meantime, somebody else on another auto forum has read the same paper; you can read his comments as well if you're bored: linky, linky My personal thoughts is that Porsche designed their cars to use cross-drilled rotors; and what I mean by designed, I mean the rotor diameters for their brakes are oversized. If you took, say a Nissan 350z, a 3300lb car w/ < 12" rotors (at least 2003 non-Track models had < 12" rotors) and bought cross-drilled replacements w/o increasing rotor diameter, then yeah, you're asking for a world of hurt after a few hard track sessions. Another example, the E46 M3 CSL / Competition package has cross-drilled rotors, but they increased the size (diameter & width) of the fronts over your regular M3. ///Michael Hmm, I would have to say that there is a little bit about Porsches(911) being engineered to do 180mph, and Z's set at about 150mph. I would think that sub 12" rotors on a 3300# car would desintigrate after s short time on the Autobahn. Wonder if the specs are different in Europe or Japan? That's an odd comparison. in my book of performance cars, a 350Z you would not find, nor it's competitor the Crossfire or the Z3/4. While they are sporty and 15-26 year olds love them you would more then likely destroy one of them if you did track it(consumer cars). My thoughts on the brakes for 911's is simply engineered to take what you throw at it. Switzerland, Germany, USA, Italy, Doesn't really matter which one. I have run into a few hills in a rental BMW 323 in Garmisch Germany before thart would have really appreciated Porsche brakes.

Hmm, I do not have my car at the moment or I could tell you what my offsets are. I have 19x11, 19x9?, They are champion Moto. wheels maybe you could find out through them? They just need to know that they are the 3piece forged aluminum ones. They are not typically avail. to the public from what I understand. GL

Well, gloss black looks good on anything. Matching your color is kind of redundant as any silver wheel on the planet will look close enough to your color. The blue is a good look it is a little bit different and it goes well with silver, now all you need is some sponsor decals, and door numbers to match the blue color to tie it all together. . . . . maybe not. Also I forgot to say nice choice on wheels HRE's are very good. Try looking google pictures of exotic cars and see if something pops out at you. You do have to be seen in public with it after all. ;)

I have a PET disc somewhere but don't really have time.

Under the left tail pipe. I had the same thing it turned out to be the factory hose clamp was allowing coolant out. The leak was not visible from the top view. I got under the car and was able to see the spot. I cannot find the pic of it, but I do remember that if you look straight down beside the alternator from the top you will see it( the hoseclamp). You might try and clean that hose etc. up and then drive the car and see if the mess returns. GL Found a pic it was one of the two hoses you see by my hand it has a clamp close to the alternator.

Personal thought I would go with chrome lugs. As you have a lot of chrome on them and the contrast might look tacky. (I have been accused of being anal about these type of things) :rolleyes:

Well now I have seen one. Are those carbon rotors? Good God man. :notworthy: Porsche RS Spyder "Two-circuit hydraulic braking system, six piston aluminum monobloc brake calipers, front and rear ventilated carbon (ceramic) brake discs, F: 380 mm diameter R: 355 mm diameter" Last time I checked PCCB (the closest street version) was an $11,000 option and replacement rotors are about $4000 per axle pair ($8000 for all four). Naa, if I wanted to blow that kind of money I would of went ahead and bought that pansy 360 Modena Spyder.

You said Glove box I assume you have an 03 or newer. . . But even still that is amazing that it should be that easy to get to. I had to replace the flap seals in one of my X1/9's and dear God man I had to remove the shifter console, the center console, raise the dash, and then grunt alot and finally after 6 screws placed by a contortionist were removed it came out. Sounds like a good opp to do a write up.

Anyone got schematics for electrical?

My bad I think I was unclear. Right now when I set the alarm a get 2 blinks. I would like to get 2 chirps of the horn so that I know that the alarm is set. On other systems I have had it was just a dip switch setting to make this happen. Two options: 1. Buy aftermarket alarm. 2. Get knee deep in wiring, and beg the guys on here to help with schematics and you could piggyback the alarm signal lead and wire in a seperate relay to trigger the horn or an aftermarket siren. This I warn is usually easier said than done, but if you have the schematics and do not need to take out the dash to do it who knows. GL

And on another note, I would like to keep the examples limited to those who use carbon steel brakes. As it is not fair playing with Mr. Porsche. :lol: Loren am I able to buy one of those? Well I suppose it does not matter I doubt I could afford to buy it anyways. It's not worth my life. The little lady would kill me. . .

Well now I have seen one. Are those carbon rotors? Good God man. :notworthy:

Rubber cement and masking tape. . . . When the glue has dried remove the tape and it'll do the trick. Super glue will run the risk of breaking the slot when removing to replace them.

That's a good point, they really don't have to though. I haven't seen a Porsche race car that has not either had drilled or slotted if not both rotors? Not debating, merely stating my appreciation of them. Loren is the best! :renntech:

IMO, I have experienced better braking across the board on all the systems I have used both full Brembo and Willwood conversions as well as just aftermarket rotors. My pads when crossing would not fall victim to glazing nearly as often which lead to better performance and pad life, as well as increased rotor life/durability. You'll find that you do not run into warping issues nearly as much if at all. Another thing noticed when your brakes are hot and get wet you would lose a considerable amount of braking capability with a blank rotor. To touch on the before mentioned that pads do not gas out as much as in the past, partially true. Before they were comprised of the same compounds, today there is a vast diversity amidst companies and brakepad lines. If you have an issue with brake dust collecting on your wheels then you have brake pad gasses. They attract to the surface of the wheel and adhere to it you can test it by taking any other powder material tossing it at your dry wheel and then doing 80mph. Then see how much is there? . . . . . P.S. The beveling/chamfering is typically set to the specific tolerance of the rotors wear specs. ie if the beveling appears to be roughly only 1/8th of an inch deep then double that amount and check the replacement specs for your rotor. PRC eBay rotors do not count as they are usually from a smelting company in Shen Yang that said why not? Geez, why do I know all this? . . . . . anyone know how to understand women?

It's a unique look, IMO You're gonna have to keep them really clean to pull off the look and I would def. go with some chrome lugs. It seems odd for some reason they look smaller than my 19's? Maybe it's just due to the dark centers? It will be harder on the road due to the rigidity of the smaller sidewall. Hope you enjoy it. "Edited out the pics"

15 minutes wow, is it in the cowl?

I am not familiar with the costs on some of the things, but some of the things don't add up for me. You must have some serious wheels my front tires are 245-35-19's and I get them replaced for about $450, Alignment seems a bit high but you are talking Porsche service costs. If the engine roller bearing is the same as the tensioner bearing, mine fell off my car, I got it from Sunset, literally 5 minutes it can be on the car. Torque bolt, slide belt, remove bolt, reverse done. As for the fan motor I would do some checking on my own. Check the switch, check fuses, and so on. It is typically alot of work to change the motor, but these motors are very reliable. GL