violaGT3

Bravo, good to hear! Just watch out for Rocky's relatives..... ;)

From the tension among answers here I would have to say that one would have to take into consideration the known failures and where they stem from. Unless a total moron(10k rpm), you can ride a 911 hard and put it away wet without blowing the engine. If the buyer understands that there were specific failures to specific years, and that has already been addressed and replaced with an updated motor that should give them reassurance. If not then there is nothing you can do. Some people are bitterly anal, it is a self defense mechanism that for the most part serves them well, others just worry about getting scammed/buying a lemon/that people are generally untrustworthy(me). But if they are truely wanting to spend the money to buy a 911 then one would hope that they would take a little time to about them. Unless they like dropping $20k-$120k on a whim(if so might I interest them in a few shares of Enron?).

Hi, yes it is true. Naa, really not necessary, unless you are autocrossing. The temps won't get too high and it won't cycle at all so your factory drilled should do fine. The holes are mostly there to reduce fade by releasing the byproduct material and gasses from hard braking. HTH

+1 My girl has washed the last two remotes I've had, even after I forbid her to wash my clothes. I have taken a shot at restoring the chips with no luck, I tinker with electronics and the conventional method that works on some protected tronics doesn not work on these due to constant power and minerals in the water. Sorry

This may be a little out there, but in my years of racing it sounds like your car is being a smart@$$. I would check the timing marks, and make sure it's not set too advanced. It would take a healthy sludging to stop up a portion of the engine, or a bloke botching up a gasket setting. It just sounds like your car needs to be retarded. :lol: GL

Sounds like something a good machine shop could take care of. Just guage the difference and rework the alignment point.

It might be of some use to list the battery type you are using. I know mine had the wrong type in it. Beyond that it could be that there is a button stuck on the board, or the board has a short somewhere. In which case call an electronics friend or get a new remote. HTH

I would say that the spring clip is not seated properly. One thing that would immediately help is to leave the key in the ignition I believe that'll keep the door from locking back. The only way to know for sure is to get in there. I believe it is the spring clip>not set right, broken, etc. It should be an easy fix. I would look on my car but it is at Imagine Auto getiing some work done. GL

Pull the headlight and have a look back there.

Hmm, sounds like an interesting enough project. Wonder if I could find a 997 fascia to mold? If only I had the time. . . . . I made some parts for my old X19 racer, it was a lot of fun, messy but fun.

Hi Rod, Thanks for the lead, but it is a bit difficult since I'm located in Europe (Belgium) and I don't want to abuse the good people at GBOX knowing that I'll never be able to give them my business. So if Remus or anybody else could report on how his issue was finally handled, I'd be most grateful. -> Loren or anyone else from the tech gurus: any thoughts? Allright, I'll offer my take on your issue. I would preffer to have your issue. It spells out the cables. You have a push pull and a side to side. From there you can imagine that you issue lies with the Push Pull cable. I would give the rear end assembly a glance and see if you have rocky raccoon's remain's there. If not move to the cabin and pull the rear console. You'll see the shifter box, give it a once over to ensure that all the movements are uniform, ie that the cable is not binding in it's sleeve. The mark the PP connector, then adjust it appropriately to cause more movement in the necessary direction to engage the defunct gears. If you meet with success then find the happy median and you are go. If not, it gets ugly, there is morethan likely that you have something bent or sticking inside the gearbox. I will leave that tidbit to those more in the know than myself. GL

HI your thought would be correct. Here is a link to help you. It is a sport suspension setup. http://www.pca.org/panorama/sample_article_3.html

It would be fairly simple to add a relay to the system if you have the power and ground wires. You need a power line, ground line, trigger, and light lines. You can get add on relays from most auto stores not sure which would work best for that but again if you can find out that by explaining and asking. Then you just either 3m double tape it or self tap it to something under the center console. Really if you can drive a six speed you can do it.

You are correct.

I would recommend using a metal grade 40-80 grit to scar the back side of the fascia, then drive a couple screws on opposing sides of the break line, then use safety wire to tension the opposite sides together and put fiber resin on each side of the break but not in the crack, then place a folded piece of fiberglass cloth over the break, and smooth it down flat. After you let that cure, you can move on to the next break if any. The reason for not putting the resin in or on the crack is that it'll bulge out of the crack and look awful on the painted side. I would apply a second piece of glass cloth to each break, and then work on dressing up the painted side. I have seen people use elmers to fill the crack on the painted side and believe it or not once you use touch up paint it is good. This is of course a track repair and will work until you decide on your new fascia or if you do it well enough could serve you for a long time. I of course do not endorse the use of elmers I merely wanted to get across that it's a fairly easy repair. Of course if you do not mind ponying up the dough you could scar the break all the way and resing the crack too (neatly) then wet sand 400, 800, 1500, 2000, and have a shop shoot it. As for the screw holes, ream the burrs and put a painters tape firmly and neatly over them and then use a drop or two of resin or what ever from the back side and the threading of the hole will allow it to permanently seal it back up. Gently wet sand as before mentioned and have shot or just touch up. Oh yeah if you should run into tiny pin holes/spots in the resin use glazing putty, simply smotth it over the area and allow to cure fully then wet sand. It's a fun deal supposing you don't get resin all over everything. . . . sadly I have done that before. Just FYI incase you don't know Trying to epoxy is a waste of time. They are great with surface area but in this case the wind drag would be enough to snap it. HTH

Ouch! Either that was the Terminator with a raccoon guise or you hit him while you were haulin @$$. Most of the answers seem straight forward. The only recommendation I have is not to expose the A/C system until you are absolutely ready to complete all work and recharge it to avoid contaminating the system lines. Also a good temp fix for the radiator some jb weld putty. I know this doesn't help much But without first hand seeing the damage I would have to say just order the parts and go from there. Bend back what you can, but you have damaged unforgiving parts. Hate to see it, BOL!

Double post deleted just forgot the pic. = )

Thanks. It did the trick perfectly and I mounted the bass knob to adjust it in the center console cubby. The 8's hit nice and tight, without breaking your eardrums. But I guess if one were to turn the bass all the way up they could hang out with the guy in the Ion pictured above and they could go deaf together? Here's the pic of the bass knob, it kind of looks mangled but that's just the clear plastic protector I tend to leave them on, it's still on the subs too.

Sorry to say I am a little lost, Eric the plug guy? I searched it but came up with a long list. Thanks bumperplugs.com I love the intro song! Thanks Loren :renntech:

Sorry to say I am a little lost, Eric the plug guy? I searched it but came up with a long list. Thanks

Thanks Loren, what's an AOS failure? Air Oil Seperator. Thanks. What's the fix? Here's a little something on it I am sure that you can find what you need from here also the postponed trip to Sacramento had someone needing to do the same maybe he could help you if he understands it better. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...=24&t=17673

I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck. Hmm, Someone else had the same Idea. Cool Here is the one I built in my spare time. I have built more than 2 dozen boxes in my day I must say that this was the most difficult. I plan on building a Fiber box molded to the car so that I can squeeze out enough air space to make the next one ported. I have had the RF power amp and P3 Subs for more than a year now just need the time. (not sure how this will work I tried to link my pics that are in P-bucket but it said that the administrator does not allow from there?)

Thanks Loren, what's an AOS failure? Air Oil Seperator.

Just learned something new, Can anyone tell me a good source to get the covers?

Hmm I am not quite sure what to make of this as I have custom built draft and positive ram air systems on many cars and not run into that problem. I would check your exhaust system and general engine health(plugs, etc). Generally the computer adds more fuel due to the reading from the MAF sensor, and the ambient air temp sensor, and if your engine is running too rich I would have to say it is not because of 15% more air flow. I would dare speculate that your car is merely surviving as it is. Then when you added the K&N filter you only magnified the problem. I would almost have to say that the culprit is more than likely what you are thinking, lack of fuel. To get deeper one would need more info, (old Filter, dirty plugs, dirty inj.'s) I would assume that in the P's you might run into a dirty MAF sensor due to humidity and dust, but one would think that would cause the sensor to read less air flow not more, but you can never rule out Murphy!HTH Also I have read that others have had issues with the filter oil tainting the MAF Sensor. GL