judibake

Two years ago I traded my 2001 C2 (125000 km) for a 2003 C4 with tiptronic (120000 km). Neither have had the IMS bearing replaced. I've read TOO much about the bearing experience. Last fall I changed the oil and filter and adjusted the level after using the car on several occasions. The oil level registered just at the full capacity electronically and manually. The car was then stored for 4 months when I checked the oil before restarting. It was 1 quart down, so I added a quart and it has remained just under full. There are no signs of oil leaks and the anti freeze is clean. Any explanation for the loss of the quart? This got me thinking about oil and lubrication and possible relation to failure of the IMS bearing. I assume that the proper oil level is necessary to provide adequate lubrication for the engine but does the proper oil level truly reflect the ability of the oil to lubricate the IMS bearing? I don't know the mechanism for its lubrication but could it possibly be enhanced by adding an extra 1/2 to 1 quart of oil? There are varying opinions about overfilling I quart. Is there any rationale to this suggestion?

Thanks for all the options. The correct dimensions are 35x52x22 and Autozone has one for $13.95. Probably the easiest to get.

2003 C4 cab tip. I just determined the source of the noise coming from the AC area when the AC is switched on. I need a new AC clutch/pulley bearing. The part number is 35BD5222DUM18A which my part source in Toronto can't find. Would anyone know a replacement equivalent part number that I could possibly use to order the part? Thanks for the forum. It's very useful.

If the codes suggest a problem with the secondary air injection SYSTEM, I've been there before. Do not fail to assess and replace the vacuum reservoir at the beginning of the repairs and not at the end when all else fails.

When I purchased my car the label was also missing. Fortunately I had the original owner's manual which has a copy of the label within. With your computer and printer and some time playing with fonts and sizes, you should be able to print your own copy that you can then glue to the hood. The copy from the manual did not copy well. porsche hood label.doc

2003 996 C4 Cab Tip. I had the AOS replaced 5000 km ago and the vent hose to the back left intake manifold was fine. On examining the engine the other day I noticed some oil covering the corrugated hose and think it may need replacement. I've read everything I could get my hands on about AOS replacement and mine was replaced by dropping the engine. Others have done so by removing most of the accessories of the rear left engine space and worked in this area and below the engine with the car elevated. It looks like the vent hose alone can be installed easily?? by unclipping it front and back and pulling the new one through. Am I being naïve or can it be done with not too much difficulty.

Just an additional thought from a DIYer. My AC clutch packed it in last fall and I was presented with all the valuable information that is listed above. Of note was the price of a new clutch which always included the compressor which in most instances did not need to be replaced. Of course, the replacement of the compressor is a much more involved exercise than the relatively simple replacement of the clutch pulley and its bearing. I have been involved with auto restoration for decades, and more often than not, new or restored parts were not available. I would find a used part, either refurbish it myself or have it restored by a professional. This mode of thinking somehow does not exist anymore. Everything must be new on installation, presumably because there are no guarantees by dealerships or indys on installation of used goods. I think a sound used part is more than adequate if the repair is easily performed by a DIYer. IN THE PROPER INSTANCE. DCauto.com has provided excellent used parts for my 2001 C2 and 2003 C4 Cab tip in the past including an excellent AC clutch for $100 including shipping. (3 years working normally). No need to use the electromagnetic coil if just the pulley/bearing requires replacing. I hope members will not think this thread blasphemous but this solution has worked for me for decades. 1958 Austin Healey BN6 1960 Austin Healey BN7 1957 Jaguar XK140 OTS 1952 Jaguar XK120 Coupe 1957 Austin Healey BN6 2001 Porsche 996 C2 Coupe 2003 Porsche 996 C4 Cab tip

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a job for my indie who has the calibration equipment. I'll get back to the forum regarding the outcome.

This January I purchased a very well maintained 2003 C4 Cab with Tiptronic transmission. I have had no issues with it to date. With top down warm weather this past week I happened to look at how the top appeared in the down position and the relationships of the front panel containing the overturn pop ups, the middle panel which is the front of the top in the up position and the rear metal clam shell. There is a 1 1 1/4 inch gap between the front and middle panels as seen in the attached pictures. The top otherwise works perfectly well and opens and closes with ease. There doesn't seem to be any other obvious poor alignments. Obviously I have checked with other Carreras and this gap does not exist. Any advise on this would be appreciated.

Thanks for the information. I take it that the Gillet mufflers are stainless steel and under the circumstances that you have outlined, they can pit and corrode. The seam that appears most vulnerable is the bottom one. Probably due to start up moisture being dependent and its mixture with contaminants from within. I guess external salt and water in winter conditions would also contribute. Just for the record, if you wish to buy used mufflers, look at the bottom seams VERY carefully. Also even if they appear intact, you still do not know what's happening within. Southern states and low mileage may be of equal importance..

I'm in the process of looking for mufflers for my 2003 C4 Cab Tip. Some mufflers have Gillet stamped on them and others do not. I've been told that the Gillet mufflers are stainless steel. Are they indeed? If so why do they usually have their bottom seams corrode out after 80000-100000 km?

My 2003 Carrera 4 Cab with Triptonic Tx will require new mufflers within the year. The bottom seams are showing some minimal corrosion. I get the feeling that the mufflers for my car may be different than those for a coupe, manual Tx or RWD. I would appreciate the part number for the mufflers for my specific vehicle. Obviously I can't get to them with the mufflers in situ in the car. As well I've been looking at SS Agency Power AP-996-170 replacements. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. MG

I don't wish to open this topic for general information again. There is enough information on line about these codes to fill a large book. Over the past 3 years I have attempted to find the cause of these codes in my 2001 996 C2. The car was looked at and presumably repaired at 2 independents as well as a Porsche dealership. All tubing, the single check valve and the vacuum switch had been replaced with the guidance of numerous smoke tests. Another independent (Porsche, Audi and Benz) FINALLY identified a VERY small hairline crack at the base of the reservoir. The pros on line usually leave this possibility at the end of the list. For minimal additional expense the entire vacuum system from the black/white valve on the intake manifold to the check valve should be replaced on the first go by someone reputable. Unfortunately it may take some time and money to find that reputable shop. Safe driving.

Hi, I have a 2001 C2 that had a similar problem. I realize that there are many articles and threads written on oil leaks and I don't profess to be an authority but I found a simple solution in my case. I spent several hours cleaning the undersurface of the engine to try and identify the source of the leak. It appeared to be coming from the front ends of the cam covers. My car has 140000 km on it and city driving with potholes etc that are inevitable. I understand that the cam cover bolts are not torqued very aggressively and found that MOST were loose but not to the point of turning them with your fingers. I GENTLY tightened all of them no more than 1/4 turn and voila - no leaks for more than 2 years. Just an instance that resolved my problem but may not be for others. Hope this helps.

I have the opportunity to purchase a 1988 Carrera with a body in very good condition. The car was last licensed in 2003 and has been left outside in a covered shed since then. The owner of course suggests that the car ran well up until he abandoned it and lost the keys so I am unable to examine the boot, interior and particularly the engine compartment. Through the window the dash, seats and trim appear quite good. The car amazingly has no obvious rust but my examination is limited. He had a locksmith try to open the door unsuccessfully and has suggested that we break a window. My suggestion was to go to a Porsche dealer with the VIN and get a new key if possible. My major concern is outdoor abandonment for over 10 years in the Toronto environment. I have completely restored 4 cars in the past and am willing to refurbish this one if it can be done without a major restoration. I also have no idea what to offer him knowing the unknowns and probable costly surprises of the purchase. This may be a situation that many members would love to be in but I'm not wanting to undertake a large time commitment at this time. Help.

Me again. I posted how to replace the riser mechanism on a 2001 C2 on March 10,2014. I don't know how to post it as a thread on this site so you may have to trace it back to the date under "judibake". I think you'll find it helpful.

I have the 2001 C2 which had an identical problem. There is a gear that drives the cables in the motor mount and another set of gears in each of the hinge tubes. The gears are made of plastic and I guess with time and constant use may lose several teeth. The easiest solution as has been suggested is to try and find the entire mechanism on eBay. In particular email someone that is parting out a car. Paid $75 for the entire mechanism, motor and all. There are many sites to help you replace it. The engine cover does not have to be removed. Hopefully this will help. To order new parts from Porsche will cost a fortune.

Last year I purchased a lovely 2001 996 C2 in excellent condition. Shortly after I examined it in detail I identified that the elevator hinge on the driver's side of the spoiler mechanism was defective and the spoiler was not retracting fully. I thought that a description on how I handled this might save other members a bit of time in the future in resolving the problem. The mechanism is not cheap to purchase. I was fortunate and bought one on Ebay for a pittance. I found two youtube sites that described firstly how to replace the rubber bellows and secondly how to replace the spoiler with a permanent GT2 or GT3 style. There is no need to remove the bellows and no need to remove the engine hood to replace the spoiler mechanism. Above the engine hood: - raise the spoiler - detach the spoiler hinges (4 hex bolts) - carefully remove the O rings and the rivets from the elevator hinge to the spoiler Below the engine hood: - remove the 6 hex bolts holding the elevator hinges to the underside of the hood ( 3 per side ) - remove the 4 hex bolts holding the top plate to the hood ( the mechanism is under this plate ) - carefully drop the plate and mechanism which will identify the electrical connections to the motor and track - the motor connections are easily removed - in order to remove the connectors to the track ( there are 2 placed one on top of the other) you must open the track casing by snapping open the rear clips, separating the top and bottom of the casing and then sliding each connector off a double pin from the bottom. - the harness from the right engine compartment to the hood hides under the plate and is secured by 2 snaps to the plate. If they are broken during the removal I suggest not replacing them as they are not necessary. - The plate and mechanism is then freed and placed on a bench. On a bench: - remove the plate from the elevator hinges ( 3 hex bolts per side ) and from the motor ( 3 long bolts ) - reverse to install new mechanism to the plate - there is a shim between the elevator hinge and the engine hood that must be transferred to the new mechanism Reverse everything to install on the car. Much easier reinstalling than disassembling. Do not forget to reattach the electric connectors. If this is to be done over a day or two, disconnect the engine compartment light. I hope this may help someone in the future. MG

Thank you for the information about the IMS Guardian. I don't know why it has never come up in an IMS information search. It represents a great insurance policy against IMS bearing failure and engine destruct for $400. It looks relatively easy for a DIY installer to tackle. The other option of course is to spend a little more than twice the amount and get the replacement bearing. I guess if you change your oil often, the magnet drain plug is the lesser choice. Thanks for all the information. It was very helpful.

I'm not familiar with an IMS Guardian. Is that the same as a magnetized drain plug. If not would you kindly elaborate?

I presently own a 2001 Carrera coupe with 144000 km. The car has no mechanical issues and drives well. Many of us read incessantly about our cars and I've just looked at the literature about IMS bearing failures. Is there any way to diagnose an IMMINENT failure before it becomes obvious to allow replacement of the bearing and not the engine? The sites that I have viewed suggest it just happens suddenly without warning. I'm sure this question and answer will be appreciated by many of your readers.

I would like to add my two cents worth. I recently jacked up my 996 using the support just behind the sump as was suggested. It was not jacked high and the car was supported at the jacking points with very low car jacks. As I was changing the oil and filter I noticed fluid leaking down from the right side of the engine compartment. Once the oil change was completed the jacks were removed and the car lowered. I then removed the entire air intake housing to view the right engine compartment more fully. I found a long split in the front of the water hose exiting the engine block. I can only speculate that the cause was jacking the engine up to lift the car. The hose is fixed laterally to the frame but is mobile on the engine. The shear force fractured the hose. My only suggestion is to jack the rear of the car using the subframe cross member. You may get away with using the engine most of the time but I will not take that chance again. The coincidence was too convincing. Mel G

Back to the experts again. I bought a 2001 C2 in February. It runs beautifully well. About 1 month afterwards the CEL goes on and I take it to a well known independent in Toronto whose diagnostics show the above codes. He fiddles under the rear hood and states that a vacuum hose has become disconnected which he puts back to normal, removes the codes and resets the engine. No charge. CEL is off for about 100 miles and then reappears. It's now time for me to look myself. A connecter tube is broken leading from the electrical change-over valve to the air change-over valve. Something that is easy to fix and replace myself. I go back to him to survey the repair and reset the codes to normal. He finds all is well. No charge. 100 miles later on goes the CEL. Frustration. Back again to the expert who now thinks it is the combination air change-over valve /non return valve (2001 and after). $350 total which I thought was reasonable. Now I purchase a Durometric Diagnostic Tool for myself. 100 miles later the CEL is on again. Same codes. Here's what I now do. Check one way valve to the air intake system - OK. Check all accessible vacuum lines by accessing them with tubing through which I blow and suck - OK. Remove the electric change over valve and read the voltage in the harness with the SAI pump on and then with the electric change over valve on itself - 8 not 12 volts (the meter is correct). Replace the electric change over valve with a new original part. The CEL has been reset and I await with trepidation the day that it reappears. Then what?? Should the voltage at the electric valve be 8 volts or 12 as suggested in one article that I read? I don't want to believe that the inlets into the cylinder heads are blocked with carbon deposits. I think that may be unlikely for both banks at the same time and the codes indicate that both banks are involved. I would appreciate any advice. Of course with the replacement valve the CEL may not come on again. The above may be informative for anyone that has these codes appear for the first time. Mel Goldberg Toronto

Thanks for the advice. I will try your method and report back to the site. Someone else suggested the irrigant be a combo of distilled water and vinegar. Have you used this method yourself? Mel

I just purchased a 2001 966. The outside of the front lens is shiny new but the inside has a thin layer of dust that is noticeable and must interfere with light transmission to some extent. Is there anyway I can get inside the lens to clean it?