geoff

My '01 Boxster came with the original Continental Sport Contacts as the OEM tire. Rears lasted 27.5K miles, fronts just under 40K. At 40K miles, I replaced front and rears both with Michelin Pilot Sports. In hindsight, I should have gone with the Michelins the first time I replaced any tires. Vast difference in terms of driving and huge improvement. I realize these aren't the exact models of tire your are comparing (the original ContiSports had an awful reputation), but you get the idea and can draw your own conclusion. As long as you don't compare them to anything else, the Contis are OK. By the way, America's Tire easily beat everyone else's price, including Tire Rack and Costco

I put the 997 short shifter in my 2001 Boxster without any problems. It came preinstalled in the housing, is NOT the same as the B&M.l If you search my past posts you can find more details. The 4 holes where the bolts go through to hold the shifter assembly matched perfectly. There seemed to be a few differences in the housing, but overall I couldn't tell anything functional, just where the plastic was thicker or not. I have had absolutely no problems. When I first put it in, it seemed like the throw was much shorter, although it felt smooth like the stock shifter. I measured the reduction at about 25%. I could still shift with one finger. Now that I've driven with it for a year, it feels totally normal

Thanks for all the great insights, comments and suggestions! :D Excellent article - somehow I missed that one I was afraid to call the dealer to get an idea of installation cost, but did talk to two suspension shops in the area (Bagge in Culver City and Johnson Alignment in Torrance). Both looked up the book cost for the install and alignment, each said they could do it faster, and both said it would be a little over $600 including alignment. The most interesting comment from each was that they had more experience removing sport suspension setups than installing them, because most people find them too low and stiff for driving around here. The boss at Johnson recommended the Bilstein HD shocks instead of the stock Porsche ROW M030 ones. So far, that sounds like the most reasonable change from the stock Porsche ROW M030 setup I've heard. LemmyCaution - I know the streets around PdR are really bad (and getting worse!). How often do you bottom out on speed bumps, driveways, etc., and how much more noticeably harsher is the ride, compared to the stock suspension? Based on everyone's comments, it sounds like the ROW M030 setup is worthwhile for driving, but for housewives that bought a Boxster as a fashion accessory, it's way too much.

Wow! :o From http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7073 I was assuming installation would be in the 3-4 hour range! Are there any parts I could do myself, or is the whole process so involved that it's not worth doing part myself and the rest at a good suspension shop? I guess I need to call around and get some estimates on installation before I order any parts

How did you come upon the mix/match front 'S' and rear base sway bar combination? Bigger and stiffer of each, or something else? Don't the shocks have to be matched with the springs? How much difference between your setup and the factory M030 configuration from a driving standpoint? I'm not planning any track time, and only started thinking about a suspension upgrade after driving a friend's RUF 987S with Carrera S engine. The power was nice (understatement!), but I really noticed flatter cornering and better steering through the twisties around where I live. As a starting point, I'd like something as close to Porsche OEM as possible, thinking I can go further later if I really want to go crazy Sunset quoted me about $920 + shipping for the whole ROW M030 kit, which I figured wasn't as bad as lots of other upgrades. I'm estimating $300 or a little more for installation (not something I want to tackle myself, having never touched a suspension before)

Hmmm... not sure how I missed that one. That writeup makes the ROW M030 sound like a no brainer, the only downside being the cost. Seems like the suspension upgrade would be a good item to add to the Xmas wish list :) Many thanks for pointing this one out

I've started to think about the Porsche 030 sport suspension for my 2001 base Boxster (2.7, 5 speed). From what I read here and other places (e.g., http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html ), it doesn't sound like the 030 package for the base Boxster is that much of a difference from stock as it is with the 'S' model. Anybody here go from stock to the 030 suspension on a base Boxster, and if so, how much difference did it make in terms of handling and ride? Is there any real reason not to go for the ROW version instead of the USA version? Do I just order the 030 suspension upgrade from Sunset as a single part number, or is it an a la carte deal? Parts number(s) to order, please? Or if I just say ROW M030 kit for a 2.7 Boxster, the parts guys will be able to figure it out? Other than a slightly lower ride height, is there any other difference between the ROW M030 package and the USA version? I am assuming because of power, weight, etc., it's best to use the base 030 package on the base Boxster, instead of trying to get fancy and use the 'S' 030 package on the base Boxster. Or is this a bad assumption? Once I get the parts, should any reasonably competent suspension shop be able to do the installation? I assume I will need an alignment afterwards, won't I? Sorry for so many questions - I'm just trying to make an informed decision. Any advice, experience, etc. will be greatly appreciated. Also, any tips on what to do and not do would be great...

I had some 303 lying around from a canvas gate at home and tried it on my top. Water beads up OK, but I heard it doesn't work as well, or last as long, as Raggtopp or the Porsche top protector. I usually use the Porsche stuff. The Raggtopp is much easier to apply. The 303 vinyl protectant is great, so I assume most of their products are OK The only place I've ever seen Raggtopp for sale is at the parts department of a Toyota dealer; they sold it for MR2s

Never mind. It seems to be working now :)

Is that why "View New Posts" isn't working? I keep getting "Sorry, the board administrator has enabled search flood control. Please wait at least 20 seconds before trying again."

We have an '01 Boxster and an '05 Carrera (997). The Boxster is mine and the Carrera is my wife's, but whenever we take the Carrera, I'm the one who drives. The more I drive the Carrera, the more different the two cars feel. At first, the driving differences are much harder to notice (other than than the obvious physical characteristics like interior room, power, etc.) Also, the more I drive the Carrera, the more I prefer the Boxster. My wife won't even drive my car, and she likes the Carrera more because of the room, comfort, etc. Handling and steering on the two cars is quite different. Both are terrific. It boils down to a matter of personal preferences. There is no right or wrong answer; they're both Porsches. My wife was originally looking at either a BMW 5- or 7-series when we bought the Carrera. She does not regret her choice of the Carrera whatsoever. She originally said we need a 4 door car for when we take more than the two of us. In the 18+ months since we've had the Carrera, we've only put about 1000 miles on her old Lexus GS300 (which we still have). One of these days we'll sell the Lexus and get a Cayenne.

I had a similar experience with my '01 Boxster - see http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=321 The dealer replaced the started under warranty and the problem decreased, but didn't completely stop. My alternator crapped out after the car was under warranty and I had it replaced, and no more intermittent starting noises. I never figured out what combination of starter, alternator and belt on/off sequences finally solved the problem, but haven't heard the noise in almost 2 years

I searched through the past topics and the TSBs, but didn't find anything that quite describes this problem. The Bentley manual didn't address it either Recently, when opening or closing the convertible top, about halfway through the sequence there is a single "pop" noise, like something sticks for a moment, then breaks free. Doesn't happen every time, but never used to happen, so it's a new problem. I looked inside the clamshell when it was about halfway open, and didn't see anything obviously disconnected, broken, twisted or loose. Everything is pretty clean as well, no debris Does this sound like a lubrication problem, or an indication something is worn and/or about to break? 2001 model year, 43+K miles, driven with the top down much of the time, never had any top issues before, and except for the noise, the top operates fine.

The car hasn't been back to the dealer since it was in for an oil change in September, and they were able to reproduce the symptoms on another 2005 997. It DOES still do the brake slip thing at the bottom of the driveway. I'm nor sure about your ABS self test theory. After backing out of the garage, depending on how our other cars are parked, it takes one or two forward and backward turns to point down the driveway, and we have to slow down once or twice before our gate (all downhill and driving forward). After exiting the gate to the street and putting brakes on, that's the only time the brakes slip. It happens whether in gear or neutral, and in either Tip mode or manually in 1st or 2nd. It's still irritating, especially since my '01 Boxster has never done this. Based on the time involved, I think the ABS self test would have probably happened sooner. The next time the car is in (probably soon since the radio now changes stations at random - I think there's a TSB on this), I'll have it checked again and report back. Just drive to the dealer and right through the front windows. Tell them that the brakes slipped again. That should get someone looking into it. Or better yet, wait for the service manager to leave and rearend him in the parking lot. Service manager is a 'her', not a 'him' :) Rearending dealer's staff cars probably wouldn't earn me any favors in the future. What I find most interesting is Peter Smith's (PCA) comment that this also affects the 996 model. I guess high speed stopping power is good, but really slow speed stopping isn't so good!

Since my original posting, several discussions with dealer service personnel. The "feature" is reproducible on other 997s, including the service manager's personal car (or so she says) I also asked the question to the PCA experts - see https://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...5-4672B8EB5BBC} for the answer from Peter, who I think is Mr. Tool Pants' good buddy. It's also a feature with the 996, but more pronounced with the 997. It sounds like it's a combination of rear engine, automatic transmission and general vehicle design. Just one of those things you live with. :o Just one more reason why you shouldn't put an automatic in these cars! A friend just got a new 997 turbo with tiptronic. The next time he's over for dinner, we'll have to experiment with his car and see if the feature also occurs in his car. The turbo is all wheel drive, so it might behave differently.

Just out of curiosity, why not just replace your dead wiper relay with the VW wiper relay that gives you the programmable feature, without having to add the potentiometer. It doesn't rain that much up by you, does it?

Maybe not exactly what you're trying to find out, but a data point to help. I put the Porsche 997 short shifter (blue plastic shifter in the housing) into my 986. The old 986 housing is not exactly the same as the newer 997 short shifter housing, but pretty close in terms of holes lining up exactly right, etc. The 997 short shifter feels very nice in my 986 (same housing as the 996) Since the biggest time part of the shifter install for me was removing and re-installing the rear center console, you might want to pull off the center console, swap shifters with the one from your 987 (assuming it fits), leave the center console out while you install the B&M kit on your 996 housing, which sounds like a known fit, then swap them again when you have all the surgery done

I put one of the new Porsche 997 OEM short shifters into my 2001 Boxster. I'm no mechanic, but after spending some time talking to Tool Pants and reading a lot online I was able to figure it out without breaking the car. The shifter I bought came with the housing, so no cutting At first I was luke warm to the difference. It seemed like 75% shift reduction instead of the 25% I measured. Now it feels normal. The longer I have it the more I like it, and have changed my tune from "not worth it" to "worthwhile improvement" Of your pros and cons, the only ones I agree with is the shorter throw (it's no faster), but don't see the cons. But then, I went with the new Porsche OEM that's all plastic like the stock, instead of the older style Porsche short shift, B&M, Snell and others that are all metal. I think the one I got also doesn't reduce the shift throw as much as the others. I don't see it as more accurate or anything (since it's not gated), and I can still shift with just one finger See some of my earlier posts with pictures for more details, part number, etc.

Got this in email from Harbor Freight (you either love their stuff or you hate it!) - http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/emails...32_retailB.html Has anybody tried the $35 OBD2 reader and have an opinion on if it's any good or not. I know it won't read or clear Porsche specific codes, but I figured for $35 it would be worth it even if I only use it once or twice. Is there any chance this could damage any of the electronics on my car?

I've got a 2001 (non-S) Boxster and absolutely love it. As already mentioned, 2001 base models got the 3 spoke steering wheel and the headliner. Starting in 2001, to get the outside temperature display you need to hook up the on-board computer (OBC) if the car doesn't already come with it; prior to 2001, activating the OBC without hooking it up would at least give you outside temperature display. One thing to be concerned about with the interiors - 2001 models came with a "soft touch" finish on many interior parts. This finish is absolute crap and easily scratches, flakes, peels and bubbles. I had much of my interior replaced over the years under warranty. I think the finish starting in 2002 was a bit better. If you're looking at cars from that vintage, look very carefully at the condition of all interior surfaces. Another consideration across the years - each model year Porsche makes a number of improvements to parts, so by buying a newer model you're also getting a number of non-visible component improvements. Lots of parts will still fail over time, like coolant overflow tanks, but at least you'll get the newer revision components on an '02 compared to an '01 or '00.

I have the original blue tool Tool Pant's referenced in his post, and Torrance is a lot closer to me than San Jose (somehow I never get up there when they work on cars). Want to get together one of these weekends so you can see it and try to make a B&M clone? I can see your speaker bracket at the same time :D

Do you have a 2001 model car? My '01 Boxster has the soft touch finish from the factory on most of the interior parts, and if you look at it wrong it scratches, flakes, bubbles and/or peels. Much of my interior was replaced under warranty. Now the car is out of warranty, and parts are scratching, flaking, peeling, etc. again. I have heard the only option is the scrape everything off (a nasty, tedious and time consuming job), then properly prep and refinish the parts affected. If you want a first class product and aren't worried about the cost, Mr Bumperplugs is the guy I would call. My car has a black interior and I heard about the spray version of the goo you dip pliers in to get soft handles. I picked some up (I've seen it at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and lots of hardware stores), but haven't had the time to try it out yet to see how it matches and holds up. I'm on a business trip to Europe, otherwise I'd tell you the exact name of the product, but I think it's PLASTI DIP® SPRAY - see http://plastidip.com/consumer/products.html

Is the amount of throw the same on both the 996 B&M clone and the 997/986 replacement ? Although Porsche claims approximately 20% shift reduction, I measured 25% on my 2001 5 speed Boxster. At first it felt really short, now it feels just slightly shorter than the original, has the same basic smooth feel as before, and I can use one finger to shift. It definitely feels easier to shift than when I first installed it. I attribute this probably to plastic on plastic wear between the shifter and housing. Before I installed it (i.e., out of car), the shifter would stay in whatever position I placed it (due to friction), whereas the one I took out would always flop off to one side. I wish I could claim originality here, but I found a guy in Alabama on Rennlist that used the 997 shifter on his 996 - see http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...38&postcount=19 (he emailed me saying it should work on my Boxster) and the side-by-side pictures from http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...19&postcount=17 made me realize the housings were probably the same. Note that dealers will all tell you the new short shifter won't fit in the older 9x6 cars It's also interesting that Porsche now says to use the new shifter once the old stock is used up. Maybe they figured this out by reading these forums :D

Try this for starters: http://www.brackenrig.net/OBC_Hack.htm I think Tool Pants has a DVD showing how to do the install: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...code=_9x6_Werks Given all the frustration I had installing Litronic headlights and the Porsche short shifter using printed instruction, I would probably buy the DVD to watch someone do it first instead of relying on several sets of printed instructions from the internet. You have to make up the wiring harness using the VW wires and BMW connector. It takes less time to do than read about it. I handed my dealer the instructions I printed out, the new stalk for the OBC and the wiring harness I made up and they installed it

When I bought a set a few months ago, Carnewal in Europe was the least expensive, even after getting hit with the Euro to dollar exchange rate and shipping charges. I think I ended up paying around $125 total or so for a set of 4 Porsche colored center caps. See http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p97002.htm Surprisingly, shipping was much faster than for parts I've ordered from domestic dealers