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Hanseman

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Everything posted by Hanseman

  1. Dear Renntech forum, Ok, so I did access the driver-side lever assembly to inspect the latch solenoid. The wire that moves back and forth to bring the plate to locking position moves smoothly. The solenoid does not move when I engage the remote lock (flipping the black door mechanism to close) - in either way to lock (from open) or to open (from lock). I assume that the solenoid is bust (or the wiring does not deliver the appropriate signal). Either way, it is not intuitive how to access it for removal/testing? Is it the two Philips head screws only that hold the whole side mounting bracket? Could there be any other explanation for the solenoid not moving? Everything else reacts to the remote lock as it should. Comments and suggestions, please! Thank you, Hans
  2. I just changed the spark plugs (second time) and coils (first time) on my 996C2-MY99 at 115k. It is probably worth spending the little more money and get the OEM Beru spark plugs and corresponding OEM coils. Check with Sunset Imports (Oregon) for possibly the most competitive prices. If the coils do not have any cracks and the rubber don't look dry, there should not be a need to replace. If you do find dryness or cracks, the current (new) coils requires longer screws (now with Torx) so make sure to order those as well. Easiest way to replace the spark plugs is to remove the exhausts, as this will give you enough room work. If you place the rear tires higher (on ramps), the exhausts can be removed without need to take off the rear bumper/skirt. The job should not take more than 2h for both sides if your bolts are not rusted and your tools are good. Good luck! Hans
  3. I opened the trunk using the manual release cable, and disconnected the battery (more than 10min). While without battery connected, I removed the driver-side seat and used contact cleaner to remove any oxide on the alarm module ground cable. After reassembly and battery connection, I can still not use the levers for front/engine hoods as the latch remains engaged. Car starts fine, locks operate, and fuel door locks/unlocks. I suppose next step is to disassemble the driver side lever assembly to make sure the latch solenoid is OK!?!? Any suggestions? Best regards, Hans
  4. Dear Loren, No, no water at all. Durametric says 46 "control locking synchronization" Status: present Any way to resynchronize the latch with the door. I am thinking to use the manual release for the hood and disconnect the battery.... Best regards, Hans
  5. Dear Renntech forum, It seems that the alarm module have had a partial mishap and does not disengage the hood/trunk latch lock upon remote key operation. Neither does manual entry work. The car starts fine, locks/opens all doors with window operation intact, and I have checked all fuses. I have tried to recycle the remote but that did not solve the issue either. The only thing that may coincides with this error is a extraordinary quick "airbag light" that came on instantly after I reset it (using Durametric). Could it be the electrics under the driver seat, such as the ground cable? I am reluctant to go there because it is with some concerns that I would work in that area without disconnecting the battery (I have the hood latch override cable available though). Any suggestions are good suggestions! Best regards, Hans
  6. Dear Loren, I did, it is M6.1 30mm Philips head alloy screws with narrow unthreaded shaft. Have picture too... Any speciality stores that may have such items? Amazon does not... Best regards, Hans
  7. Dear Renntech forum, It seems that two of the screws for my air box was tightened too hard when it was factory serviced last time to replace the air filter so now they cannot be undone without destroying the screwheads. It seems a bit wasteful to buy a new air box if I can manage to remove the stuck screws. However, proper and correct replacement screws seem hard to find. It would be great to know if anyone knows where to find these M6.1 30mm Philips head alloy screws with narrow unthreaded shaft? I have regular M6.1 30mm screws that I can use, but correct ones would be better. Thanks for your help! Hans
  8. Dear Loren and kbrandsma, It was a simple issue; Fuse C3. But now I have located both emergency releases...and learned some of the electric system as well. Best regards, Hans
  9. Dear Renntech forum, Well, I did aim for the battery disconnect approach, and about 1h later after digging and finger feeling for the release cable, I opted to locate the wire by other means. It was not rerouted to the tow hole, but in fact readily accessible from underneath the car using an electricians fish line. Also, this would be an easier way to reroute the wire for others wanting it accessible through the tow hook hole. Anyway, I managed this way to open the trunk and disconnect the battery. However 10-15min without electricity did not remedy the lock function situation. In addition, I was able to also locate the fuel latch release, although it had fallen down along the passenger side door jamb. I can now fill gas, which is a relief! Nonetheless, the alarm seem activated as the signal is blinking from the stereo and the trunk/engine latches are locked. I do get a soft "thud" response from the doors, but neither side engages the locks. Manual locking only locks the driver side. Since I get the double horn beep, I assume that it is either: i) the passenger monitoring system, or ii) internal fault in the drive block control unit? Would the internal passenger monitoring system not have been disconnect as indicated by my error codes? Thus leaving the drive block control unit as the main suspect...? I will remove the driver side seat tomorrow to see if something looks awry with the control unit. Best regards and THANKS, Hans
  10. Dear kbrandsma, I'll try to access the manual trunk release tomorrow through the wheelhousing to disconnect the battery. My plan is to remove the seat to investigate the alarm to see if any contacts may have come loose as I indeed moved my seat to accomodate a large box in the back seat. Perhaps something came loose... It is worth a try.. As for the key trick (when inserted and remains turned for a few seconds), yes, it operates the windows up and down. Car starts fine..just that no controls for inside lights, windows, mirrors, etc available and the trunk, engine and gas latches locked. Best regards, Hans
  11. Dear Loren, Nope, no water or moisture on the floor under the driver seat. I do think it is a simple issue because I have never had any issues of this sort before. Moroever, the car does respond with sounds as it is trying to enagage the lock function but cannot. Perhaps it is a mechanical fault in the passenger side lock, I dont know. I am hesitant to open the door liner as I cannot disconnect the battery, and thus the airbag is fed live. Nonetheless, the major issue is now to get some gas into the car so I can drive to a Porsche Service center.... I dont have the manual release for the gas latch lid in the passenger side door jamb for some reason. Best regards, Hans
  12. Dear Loren, My Durametric does not allow clearing alarm codes. Moreover, the trunk is locked so I cannot reach the battery nor my wheel bolt key to remove front wheel and to access manual release inside the wheelliner. If I just could get the alarm to disengage (to open trunk) or engage fully (lock everything). Best regards, Hans
  13. Dear Renntech, (I originally put this topic in the wrong forum). Here is a revised version, updated to reflect new information. I had just parked my 996MY99C2 and upon locking the car with the remote, I got a double horn beep back and checked to see if the doors indeed had locked. The doors were unlocked. I tried again with the same result, and then opted for locking with the key. The driver-side door locks but the passenger side remains unlocked with the double horn beep to follow. However, the trunk, engine compartment, and gas lid are locked (and does not disengage lock with key opening). Once at home I inserted my laptop with Durametric cable and read the alarm fault memory. Fault codes as follows: 34: interior sensor faulty (status present) 58: tank servo motor not energized (status present) 60: central locking limit position (lock not reached) 33: interior sensor faulty (status not present) 46: control locking synchronization (status present) 61: central locking limit position (status not present) I can not lock the doors with the remote, but the key locks only the driver side. The hood, trunk, and gas lid lock latches are all engaged and does not disengage with the remote. The lights are all inoperable inside the car, the window motors does not operate with controls, but the windows (both sides) lower and close with the doors closing. The alarm system fuse B8 (15AMP) seems OK and there is no moisture in the car (under the driver side seat). The car starts and drives as usual. Overall it seems that the alarm is engaged partly and does not close fully (with remote), and conversely, does not disengage when using the remote. Any help is good help! Sincerely, Hans
  14. Dear Renntech, I had just parked my 996MY99C2 and upon locking the car with the remote, I got a double horn beep back and checked to see if the doors indeed had locked. The doors were unlocked. I tried again with the same result, and then opted for locking with the key. The driver-side door locks but the passenger side remains unlocked with the double horn beep to follow. However, the trunk, engine compartment, and gas lid are locked (and does not disengage lock with key opening). Once home I inserted my laptop with Durametric cable and read the alarm fault memory. Fault codes as follows: 34: interior sensor faulty (status present) 58: tank servo motor not energized (status present) 60: central locking limit position (lock not reached) 33: interior sensor faulty (status not present) 46: control locking synchronization (status present) 61: central locking limit position (status not present) The lights are all inoperable inside the car. The window motors does not operate with controls, but the windows (both sides) lower and close with the doors closing. The alarm system fuse B8 (15AMP) seems OK. Overall it seems that the alarm system is out of sync with the doors OR the passenger side lock mechanism is bust. Any help is good help! Sincerely, Hans
  15. I have a similar issue (see thread: Squeeking sound from front wheel after 10min driving) which I am trying to deal with. When the car is standing still and you press on the front fender, can you hear the sound? Also, if you turn the steering wheel back-and-forth can you hear the sound? Mine does. I am using WD40 to spray on individual linkages on my front wheel to try to isolate the location of the sound. Good luck, Hans
  16. I am still trying to isolate the origin of the squeaking sound. When the car has been driven for some time (>10min) the sound is clearly noticable form the passenger side front wheel. When do I press on the fender I can make it sound, indicating that it may relate to the shock/wheel suspension. I have tried to silence it by spraying WD40 on indvidual linkage arms, one by one, and I thought I had got it to disappear but the sound came back again. In fact, I can generate the sound when I grab the front wheel with both hands and try to wriggle it back and forth, or use the steering wheel to do the same. I have inspected bolts and linkages but cannot locate the exact place it seems. Any help is good help....before I will have to take it to service. Sincerely, Hans
  17. Dear Loren, Indeed, a get the squeaking sound when I press on the fender after the car has been driven enough to experience the sound. However, it does not sound when the car has been standing still although I press even harder on the fender at that time. I assume that I now should disregard any notion of the wheel bearings and look to check strut mounts or the sway bar...any advice on this would be outstanding. Is this amenable to DIY if I can find what causes the sound? Moreover, should I stop driving the car in its entirety until fixed? THANKS again for your advice, Hans
  18. Dear Renntech forum, My 996C2MY99 just started making sounds from the front wheel (passenger side) after driving on a rugged road that was just about to get new pavement. I suspect that it may be the wheel bearings that need to be replaced, but before I do change them, it would be great to hear your expert opinions. After first hearing the squeeking sound from the front wheels, I gripped the passenger wheel and I can get it to move 1mm or so sideways, however, only when the car has been driven for 10min or more. Moreover, the sound starts after driving the car for some time. The lug bolts are not overly warm though (and no warmer on the affected side), which I did expect from worn wheel bearings. Today, I took off the tires, but I cannot hear anything out of the ordinary when I turn the rotors on either side. However, again after driving for 10min the squeeking sound starts. Your comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Best regards and thanks for a super forum that have helped me to: fix airbag light, secondary air injector, change oil/filters, and spark plugs/coils. Hans
  19. Dear Loren, I did as told today and replaced the ignition coil in Cyl #1. Upon initial testing, the car now behaves good without any RPM fluctuations on idle. There is no apparent damages to the old coil but I will measure to see if something is awry. I'll know if the replaced coil solved the issue when I get driving the car a bit the coming weekend. THANKS, Hans
  20. Dear Renntech, My C2MY99 one rainy day last weekend was sounding and feeling a vibration on idle, which a few minutes later resulted in CEL. I diagnosed the problem with Durametric to cylinder 1 misfire (P0300/P0301) with in addition P1319/P1313. The coils look good, and the plugs where changed 20k miles ago. I opted for cleaning the contacts to the coil (#1) and the sound and vibration on idle was basically gone. The car behaved well for few days and 100 miles of city/highway driving. Today a slight vibration on idle was detectable again. Sure enough, after 10min of city-driving the CEL came back on again and Durametric displayed P1319/P1313. I can't find any direct suggestions of what to do here in the forums other than it could be the O2 sensor or the camshaft calibration. I had one replaced (air cleaner location, I think) about 6 years ago. ANy suggestions where to start looking? My Durametric (5.1.4.0) did not display any values for the camshaft, but only some colored lines for some reason. Thanks a bunch for any help with the issue that might prevent me needing to seek Porsche Service... Hans
  21. Dear Renntech, Thanks for your advice. I'll drive the car to see if the CEL comes on again. If so, I'll replace the coil on that particular cylinder (1) since I actually have bought one for that purpose. Also, I'll put contact cleaner (DeoxIT) on the connectors. However, I have the issue also with the secondary air injector which means that I have to replace a valve apparently. Don't know if they are connected but since the error occurs when it is cold/moist in the air on cold-start it is yet possible. Thanks again for your suggestions, Hans
  22. Dear Loren @ Renntech, Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have replaced the spark plugs with Beru having 4 contacts (Porsche original). While doing that I did check all the spark coils for cracks and general abraision but they looked to be in good order. The coil contacts looked good and clean as well but perhaps I should spray them with Deoxit for better conductivity. However, how do I check the continuity of the flywheel sensor? In addition, I ran the car and looked at sensor values using Durametric software and it seems that one cylinder row has a little higher values for O2 sensing...I belive it was 1.17-1.19 whereas the other side had 1.0 on idle. But values became near (if not actually) identical at 2000-4000rpm. Something related to the variocam gave a value of -2 to -3 o. Best regards, Hans
  23. Dear Loren @ Renntech, The fault codes were now P0300, P0301, P1319, P1313 and before I had P1319, P1318, P0300 and P0305. Any help is good help... Best regards, Hans
  24. Dear Renntech forum, With regard to my 996C2MY99, I recently had a engine misfire code for Cylinder 5 (with irradic blinking and then steady CEL, indicating cat damage) upon cold-start and ver short drive. However, after reading/clearing the code using Durametric the car did not report anything again for a month. I did replace the oil (no traces of coolant), spark plugs (and the coils looked good) and changed the coolant lid to the latest .02 version. Car ran good for quite some time when suddenly it has steady CEL indicating secondary air injector failure (signal implausible) although I can clearly hear the sound of the air pump running for 30s or so. Deem my surprise now that suddenly the CEL comes on again and then blinks and indicating Cylinder 1 misfire. Any suggestions as what to do? Should I replace ALL the spark coils if the CEL comes on again. Interestingly, this happens after cold-start again and just after refilling gas (which it was the first time also). Best regards, Hans PS. As for changing the spark plugs: working my way by removing the rear bumper, and the exhaust system it was easy to reach all of them, just as indicated by this forum. Although the bolts on the exhaust clamps were rusted so I had to cut them of and replace with new wagon bolts. DS
  25. Dear all, Thanks for your replies. I did follow the excellent DIY section (with additional pictures and suggestions provided) and could easily reach spark plugs 3, 5 and 6. But the others seemed nearly impossible to reach with only the wheel(s) removed....and I am pretty agile and not big. Perhaps if I could have fit myself under the car completely it would have worked. I'll give it a shot the coming weekend when I get my round-head hex key. But removing the bumper and exhaust should make it a LOT easier....so thanks for your tips and pictures for the procedure. Regards, Hans
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