atm

OK guys just in case anyone is interested I have changed the clutch now. When we removed the old one it had a crack in it. Rather than try to describe this I have a pic of it instead. Hopefully you can spot this without me adding a big yellow arrow.

Hello I have a problem with the clutch on my 2003 986S. It still has the original clutch ans has just completed 32000 miles. It has a relatively easy life. I changed the front brake pads about 4 weeks ago and bled the front brakes while I was doing this. I left the rear brakes until I have new pads to fit and can do the bleed at the same time. Car is used occasionally and has been fine. This is the first time anything has been changed on the car except for oil and filters. Brakes working ok etc. So yesterday I let a friend try driving my Porsche. He seemed to be having trouble with the clutch which annoyed me but I put this down to him being an idiot. I went to drive the car afterwards and as soon as I got in I noticed the clutch pedal was soft compared to normal. Also the bite point was very low to the floor and the car juddered when trying to move off from stationary. Also it is difficult to engage 1st and reverse as if the clutch is not disengaging properly. I called him immediately and he claimed the pedal action had not changed so it was like this when he backed it out of my garage. I had used the car last about a week before and it was working fine when I left it. No fluid on garage floor etc. I posted a message on the UK based Boxa forum and it was suggested I bleed the clutch. I have now done this with pressure bleeder and an assistant holding pedal down for 30 seconds and then moving pedal up and down smoothly for 60 seconds. This has made no difference. Pedal is still soft, clutch action not correct and reverse and first gear still stiff. Any suggestions please fire away. Thanks in advance, ATM

Understood. My problem is access. I can only get a fingertip to the back of the nut. I cant get a spanner in there or a socket. I've tried stopping the top at various different positions and still no access. Any possibility you can get a pair of small needlenose Vise-Grips in there to hold the nut while you turn the six-sided base of the metal ball? Regards, Maurice. My ball is basically round but with 2 indents which can take an 11 mm spanner. The thing is I used the arm to position the ball so it was already engaged in the red plastic end piece. So I would have to break the ball out of the joint now to get my spanner on there as there isn't enough room with it in the red joint. Then there is no guarantee I can get a spanner to it. Even if I do like I say it only has 2 edges so I can only hold the ball and then I need to turn the nut. If I could get a device to grip the nut I doubt I would have the room to rotate it. I'm stumped!

Understood. My problem is access. I can only get a fingertip to the back of the nut. I cant get a spanner in there or a socket. I've tried stopping the top at various different positions and still no access.

OK so the new nut is on. I still found access very tricky. So much so that it was impossible for me to get the nut on by hand. I could only get 2 finger tips to the back of the nut. So in the end I had to use a telescopic magnet to position the nut then get a finger to the back of it. I thought I'd drop it and need to go and get a new one but I managed it. So its on but only really finger tight. I will keep an eye on it to check if it starts to come loose.

So I went to the Porsche dealer todayfor a new nut. They had the nut listed with the same part number and diagram. I had to order it as they've never sold one before. Should be with them tomorrow morning so I can go and collect. Found myself staring at a white Cayman S they had in the showroom...

OK thanks I'll have another look and maybe take some pics. I guess the metal ball/bracket I have loose is number 33 and the nut I need to source is number 36 on this diagram.

Yes thats the one. I removed the arm and then pushed the ball into the plastic cup. I then used the arm to locate the thread of the ball where it should fix to the hood but it just went in and out. Hence I figured out there must be a nut on the other side. I can just make out the nut on my other side which is fixed on ok and it is only this which has been operating and taking the strain of my hood going up and down. Therefore as I can slide the thread of the ball in and out I presume the mounting lug is undamaged. What do you mean by the plastic cover? I think Tool Pants may be referring to the black plastic cosmetic trim covers that are simply snapped onto the clamshell supporting arms. They are missing on some cars because they get in the way of seeing the "works" and they only serve a cosmetic function. Regards, Maurice. OK thanks. I'll try pulling at anything which looks plastic. My main problem is that I cant get my fingers into the area where the metal ball attaches to the hood.

Yes thats the one. I removed the arm and then pushed the ball into the plastic cup. I then used the arm to locate the thread of the ball where it should fix to the hood but it just went in and out. Hence I figured out there must be a nut on the other side. I can just make out the nut on my other side which is fixed on ok and it is only this which has been operating and taking the strain of my hood going up and down. Therefore as I can slide the thread of the ball in and out I presume the mounting lug is undamaged. What do you mean by the plastic cover?

Hello I found my plastic cap disconnected from the balljoint. I also found the metal ball part rolling around under the clamshell. I've got 2 questions if anyone can help: 1. Is there a better way to get access to the area where the ball screws into the hood than just using the service position? 2. The ball is threaded but I think there should be a nut on the back which this screws into which I dont have. Can I get one from Porsche or somewhere else? Any help or advice much appreciated.

Which headers did you go for? Have you noticed any difference in peformance?

Whats going on with the Zebra striped 997 with TT wheels in the background?

Try reading this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6162

Whats that? The "broomstick" test means that the top of the drivers helmet must be below the line from the top of the roll bar to the top of the windshield. I hope this helps, Gustavo Got ya. I will definitely fail that at 6" 1' and with the standard seats. I dont sit too well with them low down. I find I get less back pain having them up slighlty as I can get the back to angle a bit further back. I bought a pair of Sparco Milano seats on an impulse then realised I couldn't get any runners for them to fix them to my car - doh! I installed a pair of Corbeau seat in my boxster and I'm very happy with the fit and confort. Here is the link http://www.corbeau.com/products/trs/trs.shtml# The regular width fits perfectly, I don't think that the wide would work. They sell the sliding base for the boxster so no drilling required. they are lower then the oem electric seat. I'm 6' tall, if you want I could measure the space between my head and the roll bar. Let me know if you want pictures. Yes please. I'd be interested to see how they look.

Whats that? The "broomstick" test means that the top of the drivers helmet must be below the line from the top of the roll bar to the top of the windshield. I hope this helps, Gustavo Got ya. I will definitely fail that at 6" 1' and with the standard seats. I dont sit too well with them low down. I find I get less back pain having them up slighlty as I can get the back to angle a bit further back. I bought a pair of Sparco Milano seats on an impulse then realised I couldn't get any runners for them to fix them to my car - doh!

Whats that?

bump on this question, i dont see why it cant be done i'v had a couple of 1600cc vw motors built to 2332cc's and they have been very dependable and very strong motors This doesn't necessarily answer your question: I think there are other differences other than 'just' the bore and stroke between the various 2.5 / 2.7 / 3.2 / 3.4 / 3.6 / 3.8 units. there was an article on this in porsche world magazine which said that all the engines are essentially the same apart from bore and stroke oh and wiring Egas etc but the core engine is the same Yes but there are differences with valves, cams and some of the pulleys / cogs.

OK interesting. So if the airbox is a different shape does this mean that there are also differences beyond just the airbox?

I wander where the B&M shifter is manufactured.

So which would you buy with your money?

OK I checked a2rinc seller and no short shift kit just now but he does have Boxster manifolds: 2.5 for $285 2.7/3.2 for $490 Interesting. Maybe these are also made by a Chinese manufacturer. a2rinc certainly sells a lot of stuff. I guess the manifolds are for another thread. I found a German seller called ztefann who is selling what looks like the 'knock off'. He has auctions starting at 1 EUR with no reserve and has sold for as low as 55 EUR in the past. Not quite as cheap as $55 though but he is nearer. Looks the same to me from looking at the photo but what do I know.

No replies hey. Does anyone have any pics of the 987 motor / intake which we can compare with the 986?

You F***ING diamond TP. Maybe thats why I have a leak!

Forgive me here if I'm way off base but maybe they are set up for RHD cars? Anyway I'm interested in getting a short shift kit and yes I'm in the UK. I'm not normally a fan of buying from US dealers on eBay so if someone can recommend a seller I may give it a go. Thanks...

OK so I've just fitted the tension cable as discussed. FYI I got this from the local Porsche breakers for £8. The roof seems to go up and down better and fit snugger but thats probably just in my head! I do have a question: The inner roof liner [which is grey] seems to have what looks like a velcro strip or patch where it meets the tension cable. Should there be something attaching or holding this liner to the straps?