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About 911nick

  • Birthday 12/09/1976

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  • From
    Rocklin, CA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '03 996 C2
    '06 Cayenne S
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    1979 Porsche 911sc stock<br />
    1979 Porsche 911sc slant nose<br />

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  1. Faris, thank you so much for reviving this thread with your intriguing technical contribution. You give me new hope to solving the headlight issue with my Cayenne! I will report if results are successful.
  2. Unfortunately, Bobby, I have not. The chime warning indicator was annoying my wife to the point that she was about ready to roll the vehicle into a lake. I decided to disconnect the speaker located behind the gauge cluster. She is happy now.
  3. Brainz, great minds think alike! Today I got the idea to dab liquid electrical tape around the area. After an hour of drying, I dabbed a little more surrounding the immediate tear. Knowing how elastic and sure bonding this stuff is, I'm pretty confident it will hold. Thanks for posting detail about your repair. I'm sure others will benefit from your experience.
  4. While replacing the front struts, I accidentally punctured the front left inner cv joint boot. It's a small tear, but an amazing amount of grease has escaped it. I am thinking of buying a new boot kit. However, I really don't want to pull the whole axle. Do you think it would be possible to remove the inner flange bolts from the differential and pull back the axle enough to gain access to the cir clip, cv joint and boot? Anyone done this? Thanks
  5. 9. Install strut assembly in reverse order. Torque spec for hub to ball joint upper control arm is 77 ft. lbs. Lower control arm to strut is 110 ft. lbs. + 90 degrees. I got these specs from a different forum. Be sure you pre-load the lower control arm to strut before tightening. I placed a jack under the joint and loaded the spring. Be careful as this will lift the vehicle off the jack stands. Happy wrenching!
  6. 6. Now, you are able to remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. Push the upper control arm up; this allows clearance for the strut to be removed. 7. Before you compress the springs, you must remove the bottom portion of the dust boot from the plastic ring. I did not take a photo of this. I used a pair of small pliers to carefully pry the bottom lip of the boot from the plastic ring. You will remove the plastic ring and attach it to the new strut. 8. Remove the sway bar link from the old strut. Note the position of the link before you do. You'll want to position the link on the new strut in the same position.
  7. 4. Next, remove the bolt that connects the strut to the lower control arm.
  8. 3. Disconnect the upper control arm ball joint from the hub. This was the hardest part of the job as both sides required PB Blaster and a lot of force to remove. I did not replace the upper control arms, so I made sure to be careful and not mess with the boots.
  9. Front strut replacement completed! I'm happy to report that removing the strut assemblies from the Cayenne is mostly a straight forward job. 1. Raise the front of the vehicle so that both wheels are off the ground. Remove the wheels from the car. 2. Remove the the bolt that connects the sway bar drop link to the sway bar. Note: leave the drop link connected to the strut.
  10. When I did this procedure, I disconnected the return hose from the resevoir and aimed it down into a funnel that emptied into a catch basin. I also connected a temporary short hose to the resevoir that the return line normally connects. I aimed this hose up making it higher in elevation than the resevoir. This is what I chose to do in lieu of number 12 on the list that Loren provided.
  11. I definitely have all the tools. But, it seems to me that undoing the four bolts will release the strut coil assembly from the big bracket that is mounted to the chassis. Once the coil assembly is out, I would compress the spring and remove the spring nut, etc. Those four bolts do not hold tension on the coil. I really want to avoid having to remove more than I need. Hopefully removing those four nuts will be the only fasteners that need to be removed from the upper assembly. If so, the process will be almost as simple as the rear shock assemblies I replaced a few days ago. Does my logic sound correct?
  12. I just took a look at the left side strut this morning. It looks like the regular coil spring assembly has four bolts that the air assembly does not have. Take a look at the photo. The green arrows point to three bolts. The fourth is out of view. It seems to me that I can undo those four nuts, and the coil assembly will fall away from the hat. I would have to remove the torsion bar and lower control arm bolts too obviously. What do you think?
  13. I was able to view the video you posted before it was deleted. Contrary to what you thought, it was very helpful! The air and steel suspension strut assemblies are removed and installed the same way. If anyone has more info and/or torque specs, I would be very appreciative.
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