Ricky1

Thanks for your imput jrolstin. Without members commenting any future purchases will only be "best guesses". I have purchased my already and will not take the time to return them even though I have not installed them yet. I will update this forum, with my experience with the rotors/pads a few months after I installed them and periodically afterwards. One Canadian winter... I would guess lots of road salt... but still, the hats should not be rusted. One thing that I did worry about and still worry about is alloy quality... I will find that out soon. The rest of the hardware has arrived. I recently spoke to an "official" Porsche Technician. He was quite candid. Like me, he would not put on new caliper bolts... just use the existing ones and torque them properly. But since this is my first Porsche brake job, I will replace the bolts. Caliper bolts, front and rear set plus disc set screw. I don't think I really need them... should just reuse the existing ones, any comments? Hardware Kits are from Centric, one front set and one rear set.

Was told by a Porsche mechanic today that I had aftermarket coil springs on my 2005 CS. Bought the CS back in March 2013. No wonder the ride is so harsh. I thought it was mainly from the 295/30/22 tires (I am sure they contribute to the harsh ride too). I was thinking of going to 20" wheels with 275/40/20s to soften the ride but now I want to price out and look for stock coil springs. Anyone changed their coil spring before? The Porsche mechanic it would take him about six hours with the fronts being a bit more difficult. I've done Macpherson struts before on a VW Scirocco but I am sure the CS is much more sophisticated. I see this: H&R OE Sport SpringsLowers .25 - .75” on average Offers more control and balance Only from H&R, OE Sport Springs are for those who desire a slight increase in handling and control. You can expect reduced body roll and superb ride comfort with better driving convenience. OE Sport Springs provide a subtle upgrade for a fine-tuned vehicle. About $325. I may have to go to the junk yard and look for old ones. Actually I haven't been in a Cayenne other than my own so I have no idea what a stock 2005 CS rides like (non air suspension).

Loren, thanks for the update of the torque values. Always appreciate a good diagram. Use to take drafting in high school many many moons ago. "Ignited" : I've only heard the screech three time since I owned the CS for the last 6 months, so it is not a daily thing. Good thing my wife hasn't heard it yet or she will not be too happy. "wvicary" & "jagman1", thanks for your help regarding pointing to the starter. Update for noise at idle. Only happening when the engine is cold. After warm-up, noise disappears. I am guessing a faulty water pump bearing noise would not go away even if the engine is warm??? Anyways, I will try to loosen the belt and play around with three pulleys (left, right, tensioner) ones, and just rotate the other components (water pump, power steering, generator, ac compressor). I know how a bad pulley is like by recent experience with a E320's pulley... it was like someone put sand in it and had lots of play in it, like wobbling. "ekstroemtj" You are in Germany? Bring it to a different dealership and ask them to have a listen. Maybe its just like most things... If its working, don't touch it... maybe working on your SUV disturbed something else (sorry, not much help). You should still be warranteed for the work done to put in the belt, right?

Recently purchased the PowerStop kit for a 2005 CS. Just wanted to share "unboxing" pics and a few details. I have not installed it yet since the Kit did not come with Brake Hardware Kit, no caliper bolts, no disk set screw. Powerstop kit came with the rotors sensors and ceramic pads. Purchased Powerstop kit from AutoAnything.com. Purchased the front set only. They also have a kit for all four brakes. I also was looking at the ECS Tuning Kits and they have more stuff in them. The kits at the lower price range are not slotted nor drilled (if you want that sort of thing). About 63 lbs according to shipping label. Box contains two rotors, set of ceramic pads and sensors Right and left rotor indicated by a sticker on the rotor, or you can figure it out by the angle of the slot and/or drillings Stampings on the rim says "EBR"... hmmm..... You can also see that the inside half is thicker than the outside half. Anyone know why? Stampings also say "China". Both Left and Right rotors have the same stampings. No indication of left or right. Both have the letter "L" on them. One rotor had machined gouge on it. I guess these rotors are big and heavy enough for the need of balancing. The other rotor did not have any balancing (hopefully it is balanced and not neglected) One rotor was showing rust on the inside. Looks like the grey (anti rust?) coating was sprayed on and on this rotor not as well done as the other one.

Perfect Loren... much appreciated. Weather getting colder... engine getting noisier!

Engine is getting noisier. Doesn't idle quietly anymore. Hopefully its just the serpentine belt pulleys and not the generator, AC compressor, water pump or power steering pump. Or the belt tensioner pulley. I can't seem to find the torque values for the two deflection pulleys, can anyone help? I found the pulleys online, cost OK, but I first have to remove the belt to find out what is causing the noise. Occaisionally, when I start up the car, there is a harsh screech sound... for about 1/3 of a second. I am guessing there is belt slippage and/or that a component is on the verge of seizing up. There was another post, I think in 2010 that mentioned this, but there wasn't a reply. Thanks in advance.

More evidence to show that I don't know very much... Variable-displacement pumps: click on the video http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/backhoe-loader8.htm

Just to let you know my 2005 CS has the same problem... purchased the SUV used with the right rear seat "retainer clip" broken. The left one is fine. Not only that, there are many missing "rubber stoppers" that are located under the rear seats seen when the seats are folded forward. So far, I haven't noticed any noises caused by the missing stoppers but then I don't know how the suv sounds like with them. I won't be looking to replace the retainer clip since it would probably break again. As you know its made of a hard material that doesn't seem to be designed to sustain repeated "normal" use.

Interesting Post... 2005 CS manual, page 136, Button "N" ECON button (air-conditioning compressor off/on)... so if the compressor is always "on", are we really improving on fuel economy by using ECON? So is the statement "ECON button (air-conditioning compressor off/on)" false?

Had fuel pumps changed recently along with fuel filter. The 2005 CS is at around 85Kms. I don't know if the fuel filter has been changed before. Here is a pic of how dirty it is (by looking at the gloves). From the picture, looks like fuel enters the filter assembly from the two fuel pumps into the two "side" nozzle things on the yellowish "cap" and comes out one outlet that is in the middle of the cap. From what I have seen by just googling, I don't think you can buy the filter element by itself... just the whole assembly. The residue on the gloves is actually darker than the photo shows.

Comfirming that the new tire with 10/32" tread depth is running well with the old tire with 7/32" tread depth. The new tire is on the rear axle. Page 283 in Manual: "If one faulty tire is replace it should be noted that the difference in tread depth on one axle must not exceed 30%. Handling inconsistencies may result." Thanks guys for the advice.

The "after glow" picture's exposure does not reflect the actual brightness of the LEDs. The LEDs are dimmer than shown in the picture. Another note: Using an incandesent (IC) bulb with the map light lens, the light is more focused at the steering wheel (ie. spot light)... light reading of f11. At the same light reading postion with a LED bulb, the light is more dispersed with a light reading of f 5.6, which is 1/4 of the light at the same spot... but the light is more white and area is more evenly lit. It still looks bright though with the LED bulb. I guess you can say the IC bulb is a point source light and the LED bulb is not (more dispersion in all directions). (One "f" stop is a doubling of light, eg. f5.6 to f8.0 or f8.0 to f11.0, so from f5.6 to f11 is 2 x 2 the brightnes, or from f11 to f5.6 is 1/2 x 1/2 the brightness. Apoligies for you guys that already know this... I personally like things "spelled" out for me ;-) ) Natty, I may try the bulbs you bought. Ebay via your provided link. 2 for $3.99. Thanks.

Update: LEDs Finally received the 5 LEDs/bulb I orderd about two months ago... free shipping... took six weeks to receive them. Earlier on this post I summarized the 9 LEDs/bulb bulbs I first received. I finally made some free time to summarize these findings: A. Incandescent bulb W5W: Current = 0.31 Amps, temperature 65.1C (149F), "brightness" F11.6 ( * explain later) B. 9 LED/bulb bulb: Current = 0.09 Amps, temperature 45.3C (113F), "brightness" F11.3 C. 5 LED/bulb bulb: Current = 0.06 Amps, temperature 35.6C ( 96F), "brightness" F 11 * Brightness was tested with a photographer's light meter placed about 8 inched below the bulbs. (Meter set at 1000ASA @ 1/10 of a second). "B" and "C" are about the same illumination because both have 1 LED pointing down so B's additional 4 LEDs "up top" didn't really affect the reading because they all are pointed horizontally. All brightness readings were taken without the "reflector fixture" on so with it on, the horizontal LEDs would contribute and add to the reading. I will try to come up with "reflector fixture on" readings later. Notes: Obviously there are color differences between the incandescent (IC) bulbs and the LED bulbs and the photos below show this. With the reflector fixture on, the LEDs gives a more even illumination while the IC bulb gives a more spotlight illumination (this of course is due to the built in lens serving as a map light, which is its purpose I suppose). Though the LED spreads its light more evenly, it still does not spread over to the other front passenger. I was going to leave one IC bulb in and use two other LED bulbs as shown in one of the pictures but I have since replaced all three IC bulbs with LED with the center one with the 9 LED/bulb. So by doing so, instead of 3 x 0.31 Amps... lets just say equalling 1 Amp, I am using 2 x 0.06 Amps + 1 x 0.09 Amps = 0.21 Amps... So in the end I am just using 1/5 of the amperage than using the hot IC bulbs. BUT! If my wife is bothered by the white (I think 6000K) color of the bulbs, then its back to IC... or I will look for warmer color LEDs. Battery drain problem??? Guess what, I found something quite peculiar. I have the LED bulbs in, no ICs. Overhead console, switch the middle switch to the left to turn lights ON. LED lights come on... normal result. Now I press the Switch D (as in the manual, overhead console switch "Switch for switching off all interior lights" page 149)... the LEDs goes off... then comes back ON with a soft glow!!! This soft glow does not happen if I slide Switch C (the middle one) to the right, ie. lights come on when the doors open... when the LEDs comes ON when the doors are opened, then Switch D is pressed, the LEDs are OFF and doesn't have that continuous "after glow". Hope the above info is helpful... spending too much time on this but someone has to :-) Here are some Pics: Incandescent (IC) and LED together Bare bulbs with no reflector/lens fixture One IC bulb and two LED bulbs IC bulb light color LED bulb light color "After glow" after pressing "D" button/switch All three IC bulbs replaced with LED bulbs The 5 LED/bulb bulbs This stuff takes a lot of time... hope there are people that are interested...

Thanks SWPender... brake dust is pretty bad on my 05CS too. Please clairify: According to their website, Hawk Performance HB501F.625/502F.606 are "Ferro-Carbon", not ceramic. http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/ Thanks.

Right side fuel pump was the problem says Porsche Service. Porsche strongly recommends changing both pumps even if one is still working. Says they never ever replaced only one pump before. Porsche also said my warranty company wasn't a good one since the warranty would only cover one pump and not both. Warranty contract says "fuel pump" not "fuel pumps" plural nor "fuel system". Anyways, it has two new pumps and other stuff like a new regulator and filter. The Cayenne now is more reliable before this service along with a new fuel filter. The following photos are of the parts I requested I get back from the dealership... a "unusual request" from a Porsche owner according to them. Well one pump was still working, right? Anyways, here are photos of the fuel pumps and other parts. Something that I would have liked to see ahead of time myself. I also dismantled a fuel pump assembly down to the motor and impeller itself. There is a CZ site that is selling the motor and impeller for about 105 Euro. All Parts Top of pump assembly... has VW stampped on top Bottom of Venturi Tube... has VW and Audi circles Venturi Tube, again VW and Audi One fuel pump assembly... individual parts The pump itself with side opening for impeller. ps. After moving the impeller with a small screwdriver and applying 12 volts to the pump that was at fault, the motor spun up and ran. It did not run smoothly at its operating position (impeller end down), nor horizontally, but did ran smoothly "upside down". My guess is the bearings or bushing that bears the weight of the spinning parts of the motor itself are worn out. Suggestion to Porsche... make your fuel pump motors run in a horzontal position. But then no automobile is suppose to run forever... without maintenance. Since this incident was my first dealing with a Porsche dealership and seeing all the cars going in to the service bays, I pretty sure the dealship makes more money from servicing than selling Porsches... yep, I am new Porsche owner.

My front 2005 CS brakes will need replacing soon. Has anyone tried the "PowerStop Brake Kit" yet? Online its going for $291.67. Seems like a good value. My concern is disk warpage over time. I've read many posts here and am still tempted to order the PowerStop Kit. Other alternative I am thinking of is Hawk Performance Ceramic pads (as per a post). Hawk Quiet Slot rotors look interesting too. I think EBC YellowStuff will be too much for my regular everyday communting. I actually don't like the "quick bite" that my current pads have. Thanks in advance for your advice. ps. Was asking the Porsche parts guy whether or not the OEM brake pads comes with "anti squeak" compound... he confidently said "don't need it". My brakes sqeak.

Congratulations Faceman! Were you able to take some pictures? Just got the CS back today... Paid Porsche first then go and get reimbursed from the Warranty Company. Hope the later part works properly. Other than the left and right Fuel Pumps, there was charges for left and right venturi tubes @ about $209 each! WTF! Flange with fuel fill = $169, Flange with pressr (something???)=$145. This is the first time I bought an extended warranty for a car and I am not too impressed. Apparently, according to the Porsche dealership, my warranty company is not one of the better ones from their experience. Case in point, my one fuel pump failure. Only one pump failed even though according to Porsche, they have never replace only one pump and always two. The warrany company would only cover one pump. Even with a warranty, I feel ripped off. From my point of view, great job Faceman. :king:

I know nothing, so far, about the CS's 6 speed auto transmission, but I believe I have experienced "The idle RPM stumble issue" in a Nissan before. The Nissan has a CVT attached to a torque converter that locks above a certain speed (18Km/h I think). There were times when slowing down for a red light, the idle would dip pretty low (below idle speed) before what seems to be the lock on the torque converter releasing. Does the CS have a locking torque converter? Just throwing in another idea...

Thanks for your comments Faceman. Since I bought the warranty, I am "forced" to use it. I just wanted to be covered... but then I am at the mercy of a the dealership once they have the vehicle. Buying the warranty and using it feels like I am just using my own money. Money that is just set aside for repairs. Until my repairs cost more than what I paid for the warranty, then I would be satisfied with the warranty purchase. Hoping that my suv will break down so I can use the warranty is not an enviable position to be in... quite strange actually. Having two new fuel pumps will be added reliability going forward... two less things to worry about going forward... but still money out of pocket. Something I want to briing up and bring to attention of "newby" Cayenne owners. This quote from "JFP of PA": "These fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel around them, running the car low can lead to overheating and premature pump failures. It also sounds like you have a tank calibration issue." Recently, I have been filling the tank half full and drive the suv from there and refill to halfway when almost to "E". I think I will fill up now at the 1/4 tank mark. This is not in the "manual". Thanks JFP.

I just posted this a few days ago "2005 CS cannot idle". Bought warranty so I took it into Porsche. They say its a fuel pump problem. They say they always change both pumps even if only one is bad. Warranty only covers the one bad one, so I have to pay up for a "Porsche" priced one and installation. I ask to only change the bad one then the Service Rep says there will be an additonal charges to figure out which is the bad one ( I've read the "pull fuse 14" post... I think its 14). I don't want to pay for anything if I don't have to (like everyone here I suppose) but looks like I am stuck. I can just tow the suv back home and work on it myself with this forum's help but then I wouldn't be using my warranty. If I use my warranty for fix just one pump, then Porsche will nickel & dime me... probably so much that I might as well pay up for the full two pump Porsche Priced Service. Quote from the Service Rep: "All people that come in here just wants it fixed and doesn't ask "how much"". Apparently I was asking too many questions and am in the minority. Can anyone suggest a fuel pressure gage/kit. Thanks.

Here we go... after owning it for less than two months the CS cannot hold idle and stalls. It starts up properly then about 10 seconds later rpms slowly goes down and stalls. Battery seems to be good. I've started it for about 10 times (not in a row) and the starter sounds strong. If I rev it up to about 2500 rpm after starting it, again, after about 10 seconds the engine slowly stalls. It doesn't cut out right away. Any ideas? Its sitting about 3 blocks from my house right now parked on a side street. Good thing its not farther away. Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Seems like some of the electronics is wonky... when I start it there seems to be stuff moving around behind the dashboard, vent flaps or something and says my radio is off. :blush: :blush: :blush:

Here is the situation: [*]Looking to buy a CS[*]Found one[*]All tires look good on the outside with about 7/32" tread left ( Scorpion PZERO 295/30/22, new tread depth = 10/32" )[*]Front side marker light fixture is half full of water with bulb glass parts inside... fine, I can fix that[*]Bought it ( I did look at other things... this is the abbreviated scenario, but admittedly not thorough enough)[*]Took out front tire to get at the side marker light and heard stuff inside the tire as I was rolling it out of the way... not good![*]Took car to tire shop... not all shops can handle 22" wheel...[*]Took tire off wheel and found about a handful full of rubber pieces inside, popcorn size[*]Someone drove it with the tire flat... @#$%&*![*]On the inside of the tire there is a well worn ring tracking the tread-sidewall "joint"[*]The other three tires were OK when they were taken off and rolled... ie. no stuff inside Question: When I replace the bad tire with a new one, there will be a 3/32" difference in tread depth, therefore the overall circumference of the tire will be greater. Will this difference in circumference result in a different enough of a "wheel speed" to confuse the CS's electronics (eg. Traction control or whatever else that montors wheel speed)? AWD vehicles as a rule should have all tires change at once so they all match and tire rotation is essential for even tire wear, right? There is such a thing as "tire shaving" on a tire lathe... I hope I don't have to go to one. Probably have a tough time finding a place that has one! So experts out there... do you think the 3/32" difference would be negligible? Thanks everyone. ps. My spare tire is an 18" compact inflatable type. If I have a flat, can I use this spare?

Thanks for the update... I haven't received my LEDs yet ( the shorter ones than the ones I alrdeay have)... that is free shipping for you. As soon as I get them I will put an ammeter to it to see how much current they draw as oppose to a regular light bulb. Do you have an ammeter/multimeter?

OK, I am sort of safe at home from you fantastic Forum Members to dare to suggest the following: Why not use regular oil and just change it more often than use synthetic oil? I have a newly acquired 2005 CS that is out of warranty. Yes, I am a CS rookie. Will not using synthetic oil screw up the variable valve timing thing? ( I assume that its Porsche's version of Honda's VTEC ) I would think not using synthetic oil would void warranty... if you had warranty. Actually, I haven't found any place in the manual that indicates which oil to use. I am just guessing synthetic (Mobile 1 maybe... a Mercedes recommendation for a E320) What would screw up if I don't use synthetic oil? So far I have driven this monster of a SUV "sparingly"... I don't think I've gone past 2800 rpm. This also brings up the question of just using regular gas vs premium high octane as recommended. If I am not driving this vehicle "hard", I don't need premium gas, right? OK, compression ratio is high = 11.5:1. So pre-ignition with low octane gas would damage the engine. But I am not driving this suv hard at all and there is a knock sensor right? And if I am not reving the engine up... thus advancing the timing/cam shaft, thus igniting the fuel/air mixture earlier in the power stroke... then I don't need premium gas, right? Its getting late and I am just rambling on... regular oil and regular gas... what do you think? (Its a serious question with a bit of fun mixed in).

Hey you guys are awsome and its what makes this Forum so good! Not having Durametric... yet, is the image below from Durametric? Please enlighten me as to which manual you are referring to, thanks. I will check out the Yada web site, thanks.