Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

xxaarraa

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by xxaarraa

  1. Hey guys, I wanted to post this for the benefit of anyone else looking for this information in the future. There is a lot of discussion on rennlist and here about how best to take off the front struts from inside the wheel well so that we can take them apart and replace the strut bearings. My research revealed two common DIY approaches. They both agreed up to a certain point - remove calipers and rotors, disconnect sway bar end links from the upright, unplug all the speed sensors and wires, remove the three bolts at the top of the struts in the frunk. Both said you need to modify a ball joint
  2. OK guys, here's an update. Replaced both strut bearings - time consuming, but pretty straightforward job. Noise is still there. I supposed I am back to square one.
  3. Hey guys, I am getting the creaking/binding noise from front suspension when stationary and turning the steering. No noise over bumps etc. and I have decided to replace the front strut bearings to eliminate one possible cause. Question - I am reading conflicting information on the process on the C4S. One thread says you need to remove the front half shafts to make room for the struts to come out of the wheel well. HEre: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/648609-strut-removal-replacement-procedure-question.html Another says that is not necessary. HEre: http://www.6speedonline
  4. Alright guys here's an update. All joints have been greased in the front suspension (with a grease needle), mechanic who inspected everything says everything in front end is solid. Car is still making the noise when warm. a) I can now replicate the noise even when it's cold by holding the brake down while turning the wheel. It sounds like a binding noise, as though the brakes are trying to keep the wheel from turning. b) Funny, this past winter, I started to get some pulsing under braking and figured it was time for a brake job. But in a few weeks, the pulsing just went away and it hasn't re
  5. Sorry, I don't follow. Maybe you are typing from a phone and/or autocorrect is getting in the way?
  6. Thanks for your thoughts - can you clarify? "bearing plate" - are you referring to the strut bearings? you also suggesting I replace the entire front springs?
  7. Hey guys, Still having this issue, hoping for some ideas. Symptoms: after driving for a while on a hot day (45 minutes + on highway) and coming to a stop, even moving the steering left and right causes a 'clicking' or binding type of noise. No suspension travel necessary, just moving the steering wheel seems to cause it. Here are things I have tried, but to no avail: 1. lubed the tie rods - stuck a grease needle through the boot and pumped with synthetic grease 3. Replace a torn boot in right side sway bar drop link. 2. Sprayed teflon lubricant at top of front struts 3. Had my shop inspect e
  8. Thank you for the thoughts. I thought the strut bearing was sealed and could not be inspected with the naked eye? Is there a way to visually inspect it? Also, I ordered a teflon lubricant spray (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UTX0R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and plan to clean and lube the bushings and joints. I saw that the 986 guys inject some grease into the control arm bushing with a grease needle, I might do that also. There are no zerks anywhere in the front-end correct? I would need to improvise with the lubing? Anyone got any other ideas as to what
  9. Hi Loren, so sorry, didn't occur to me to check youtube privacy settings. I fixed it now, please let me know if you can take a look. Only 14 seconds long.
  10. The car has been doing this recently. Only when hot after being driven for a while. Doesn't do it as soon as I start it up in the morning. My guess is wheel bearings, tie-rods or steering column itself. But curious to see what you guys think. Car has 45k, lowered on PSS10s, new front strut bearings at 30k.
  11. Got mine and paged through it. The photos are great and very well produced. That alone is worth the money, to have photo references while working on a project.
  12. Where do you see 14 replies to this topic? My computer or my eyes are playing tricks on me. I swear, I saw 14 replies to this topic when it first came up!
  13. Am I being dense or have the "14 replies to this topic" been erased? I am looking into this, found this thread, but don't see any replies??
  14. You can view the Table of Contents and index on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Projects-Porsche-1998-2008-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760344035/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top DOH! Got it, sounds useful. I already have the Bentley manual, might get this one also to add to the reference library.
  15. Very nice DIY, great pictures. Thanks for sharing with us. Just FYI - the factory location for the microphone is actually not a great location. Up above near the dome light is the quietest part of the car.
  16. I would go with number 2. If you have MOST fibre optic wiring which came in 2004, it's a little more complicated but people have done it. If you don't have MOST (pre 2004) then it's very easy. Just buy the Eurospeed double DIN kit on ebay and you're all set. Do a search on this forum. The OBC will continue to work fine. I thought MOST was 2003 and above? I have a 2003 C4S with the CDR-23 which I was told is fiberoptic and cannot just be swapped out for an aftermarket head unit.
  17. cscobra or Loren, can you tell if the book has any projects related to the interior/radio? I was on the waitlist forever, then my credit card on file expired so amazon bumped me off. I am trying to decide if its worth getting it, since I have so many other hobbies/projects going. Any chance you can share the table of contents with us?
  18. Hello kind folks, Did a quick search and surprisingly very little turned up on the PSS10. Context: My 03 C4S has the PSS10 system, is lowered, runs on 997 lobster claw 19s with Conti DWS all seasons. I have been fiddling with the settings - The dials on the front adjust both compression AND rebound, correct? I am assuming preload is not adjustable by the user, and needs to be set when doing the install? With a lowered ride height, I am assuming they took out quite a bit of preload in my case? Are the rears adjustable too? I can get to the fronts when I do a full lock of the steering on eith
  19. I would not be overly concerned about not running the break-in oil first, as I mentioned, that is more for severe cases where the noise may also be related to varnish or crud build up due to slack maintenance. Don't be annoyed at how sensitive the car it to oils, be annoyed with the oil companies for making significant changes to oil formulations without telling anyone, and the oil and OEM marketing departments for creating long change interval fibs. And if you collected oil samples for analysis between oil changes from your prior cars, you would have found that the oils were beat long befor
  20. Had no idea about this break-in oil, I switched directly from Mobil 1 0-40 to DT-40. Since I did a direct swap without the break-in/flush, should I plan on changing the oil sooner than 5k miles? I am mildly annoyed by how sensitive these Porsches seem to be to oil. No car I have ever owned in the last dozen seemed to care what oil I ran through it. My M3 was advertised to go 15k between changes, though I did it every 7.5k. Same interval on my AMGs too. This is crazy to be fretting about oil changes and oil consumption in this day and age, not to mention in a premium car. What do we live in, t
  21. I have only about 1000 miles on it since the switch to DT40, so this isn't an entirely informed point of view. Switching does seem to have helped. I haven't had the rattle appear again. And car sat for a week through the recent "Hercules" snow storm and subsequent polar vortex temperature dips. When I started it up this morning, it ran fine, no rattle. Whether DT40 mitigates the cold start rattle or not (I am reading that it does), I am a believer in it now. The car runs and "feels" soo much smoother. I have actually never truly felt a significant difference by switching oil brands and foruml
  22. I got a note from Amazon yesterday that they anticipate shipping it earlier than the last advertised date of Feb 19. I think it said some time in January.
  23. Switched to DT-40 yesterday. Will keep an eye on it and post back up on whether the rattle minimizes/goes away. Thanks a lot for sharing guys,
  24. I have the Bentley manual but since this is very reasonably priced, I ordered this one too. Thanks for the link.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.