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Everything posted by xxaarraa

  1. Hey guys, I wanted to post this for the benefit of anyone else looking for this information in the future. There is a lot of discussion on rennlist and here about how best to take off the front struts from inside the wheel well so that we can take them apart and replace the strut bearings. My research revealed two common DIY approaches. They both agreed up to a certain point - remove calipers and rotors, disconnect sway bar end links from the upright, unplug all the speed sensors and wires, remove the three bolts at the top of the struts in the frunk. Both said you need to modify a ball joint separator tool to get underneath the LCA ball joint.Then they diverged: One said to take off the half shafts from the transmission side. The other said there was no need to take off the half shafts I took on this project this past weekend armed with all the DIY threads from here, 6speedonline (special thanks to Chris Hamilton at 6SPO, he spent a lot of time with me giving me tips) and Rennlist. I had a very skillful friend to help me and we found an easier way. We never separated the lower ball joint. Instead, we disconnected the diagonal thrust arm from the wheel carrier. This gave us more than enough room to snake the strut out of the wheel well. HOWEVER, I am running PSS10s that are set to be at least an inch lower than stock (previous owner got PSS10 to lower the car), so that may be the difference. I am unable to say if stock struts will have enough room to come off this way, but wanted to share this in case anyone did a google search in the future. Now the bad news is that even after new strut bearings, my car makes the same exact noise as shown in the videos above. So back to square one. Oh, I also want to say that I found these aluminum jack stands that are AWESOME. Super light, they stack up and store easily and hold up to 6000 lbs each. Worked perfectly for the C4S and a good addition to my tool box. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000760FWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here are some pics.
  2. OK guys, here's an update. Replaced both strut bearings - time consuming, but pretty straightforward job. Noise is still there. I supposed I am back to square one.
  3. Hey guys, I am getting the creaking/binding noise from front suspension when stationary and turning the steering. No noise over bumps etc. and I have decided to replace the front strut bearings to eliminate one possible cause. Question - I am reading conflicting information on the process on the C4S. One thread says you need to remove the front half shafts to make room for the struts to come out of the wheel well. HEre: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/648609-strut-removal-replacement-procedure-question.html Another says that is not necessary. HEre: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/259126-front-strut-bearing-2.html Can someone tell me which one might be more accurate? Also, does anyone have the accurate part numbers for a 2003 C4S? I have PSS10s on there now, so not sure if that makes a difference or if I just need the OEM strut bearing still. Please advice! Thanks.
  4. Alright guys here's an update. All joints have been greased in the front suspension (with a grease needle), mechanic who inspected everything says everything in front end is solid. Car is still making the noise when warm. a) I can now replicate the noise even when it's cold by holding the brake down while turning the wheel. It sounds like a binding noise, as though the brakes are trying to keep the wheel from turning. b) Funny, this past winter, I started to get some pulsing under braking and figured it was time for a brake job. But in a few weeks, the pulsing just went away and it hasn't returned. Putting a) and b) together, I am wondering now if my steering noise is due to a front caliper sticking? Maybe one of the pistons isn't retracting properly when it's hot causing it to stick every so slightly when the car is parked and wheels are turning? My brakes feel fine now though, so would rather not do a full brake-job just yet. Is there merit in taking it apart and making sure my caliper slider pins are not rotted? Should I throw new brake pads on there while I am at it? I'm at 46k miles,
  5. Sorry, I don't follow. Maybe you are typing from a phone and/or autocorrect is getting in the way?
  6. Thanks for your thoughts - can you clarify? "bearing plate" - are you referring to the strut bearings? you also suggesting I replace the entire front springs?
  7. Hey guys, Still having this issue, hoping for some ideas. Symptoms: after driving for a while on a hot day (45 minutes + on highway) and coming to a stop, even moving the steering left and right causes a 'clicking' or binding type of noise. No suspension travel necessary, just moving the steering wheel seems to cause it. Here are things I have tried, but to no avail: 1. lubed the tie rods - stuck a grease needle through the boot and pumped with synthetic grease 3. Replace a torn boot in right side sway bar drop link. 2. Sprayed teflon lubricant at top of front struts 3. Had my shop inspect everything in front end. He even had the car for a week and drove it home. Couldn't replicate the problem and said everything in the front end checked out. Noise is still there. Mysteriously, only happens in afternoon. I drive it to work 70 minutes in the morning and it doesn't do it, even if temperature is in the mid-60s. Only does it on the way back home after the same exact drive. Here are two videos I shot from this weekend. I was in the middle of a road trip and the car was nice and warm when I shot this. Standing in neutral and just turning the wheel left and right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H98n2v0Qw0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdmlQE5idE0
  8. Thank you for the thoughts. I thought the strut bearing was sealed and could not be inspected with the naked eye? Is there a way to visually inspect it? Also, I ordered a teflon lubricant spray (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UTX0R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and plan to clean and lube the bushings and joints. I saw that the 986 guys inject some grease into the control arm bushing with a grease needle, I might do that also. There are no zerks anywhere in the front-end correct? I would need to improvise with the lubing? Anyone got any other ideas as to what this could be?
  9. Hi Loren, so sorry, didn't occur to me to check youtube privacy settings. I fixed it now, please let me know if you can take a look. Only 14 seconds long.
  10. The car has been doing this recently. Only when hot after being driven for a while. Doesn't do it as soon as I start it up in the morning. My guess is wheel bearings, tie-rods or steering column itself. But curious to see what you guys think. Car has 45k, lowered on PSS10s, new front strut bearings at 30k.
  11. Got mine and paged through it. The photos are great and very well produced. That alone is worth the money, to have photo references while working on a project.
  12. Where do you see 14 replies to this topic? My computer or my eyes are playing tricks on me. I swear, I saw 14 replies to this topic when it first came up!
  13. Am I being dense or have the "14 replies to this topic" been erased? I am looking into this, found this thread, but don't see any replies??
  14. You can view the Table of Contents and index on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Projects-Porsche-1998-2008-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760344035/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top DOH! Got it, sounds useful. I already have the Bentley manual, might get this one also to add to the reference library.
  15. Very nice DIY, great pictures. Thanks for sharing with us. Just FYI - the factory location for the microphone is actually not a great location. Up above near the dome light is the quietest part of the car.
  16. I would go with number 2. If you have MOST fibre optic wiring which came in 2004, it's a little more complicated but people have done it. If you don't have MOST (pre 2004) then it's very easy. Just buy the Eurospeed double DIN kit on ebay and you're all set. Do a search on this forum. The OBC will continue to work fine. I thought MOST was 2003 and above? I have a 2003 C4S with the CDR-23 which I was told is fiberoptic and cannot just be swapped out for an aftermarket head unit.
  17. cscobra or Loren, can you tell if the book has any projects related to the interior/radio? I was on the waitlist forever, then my credit card on file expired so amazon bumped me off. I am trying to decide if its worth getting it, since I have so many other hobbies/projects going. Any chance you can share the table of contents with us?
  18. Hello kind folks, Did a quick search and surprisingly very little turned up on the PSS10. Context: My 03 C4S has the PSS10 system, is lowered, runs on 997 lobster claw 19s with Conti DWS all seasons. I have been fiddling with the settings - The dials on the front adjust both compression AND rebound, correct? I am assuming preload is not adjustable by the user, and needs to be set when doing the install? With a lowered ride height, I am assuming they took out quite a bit of preload in my case? Are the rears adjustable too? I can get to the fronts when I do a full lock of the steering on either side. But I can't even peek under the rear end to get a good look. Do the rears have the knobs and do they also go from 0-9? I have always left the fronts at zero, but the other day, I turned it up to 4. The front end felt more sharp, but the ride was bone crushingly hard. I know some of it is the pothole ridden winter roads in New England, but it was intolerable, so I went back to 0. What is a good front and back setting by way of good handling without being too rough? Would love to hear from folks, thanks. A.
  19. I would not be overly concerned about not running the break-in oil first, as I mentioned, that is more for severe cases where the noise may also be related to varnish or crud build up due to slack maintenance. Don't be annoyed at how sensitive the car it to oils, be annoyed with the oil companies for making significant changes to oil formulations without telling anyone, and the oil and OEM marketing departments for creating long change interval fibs. And if you collected oil samples for analysis between oil changes from your prior cars, you would have found that the oils were beat long before 15K, and in many cases beat or approaching it at 6-7K miles. Just like "lifetime" coolants, 12-15K oil changes are marketing myth; all automotive fluids have a limited life expectancy, some more than others. You are going to get 5-6K out of your oil, 4-5 years out of your coolant, and 2 years out of your brake fluid. And don't even get me started on Tiptronic or power steering fluid change intervals............ OK, thanks for the info. I don't mean to be a disgruntled grumbler on the sidelines but I am generally a little turned off by Porsche in many ways. I really do like the 996, it has a lot of personality and charisma, which is hard to quantify. I drive my cars all year, do not believe in tempermental garage queens at all, and expect premium cars to pull their weight. I know every car has its "quirks" and special needs, but the 996 has me irritated on many fronts. The blandness and borderline acceptability of its interior (the suede center tunnel covers are horribly cheap, the rubberized coating on the soft surfaces rubs off when you just look at it leaving nicks all over the interior, they charge you for a rear wiper, other Germans cars of the time were better equipped in the electronics department, etc.). A $100k car should act and feel like a $100k car. I know I am not buying a luxury car, but don't skimp on the basics and tell me its all worth it because of how well the car drives. M3s that cost half as much drive nearly as nicely (arguably better, with a more planted front end). Having said all that (I got it out of my system, I am back to smiling now), I work in marketing and know that the value of something is purely what someone is willing to pay for it. The exclusivity and aesthetic simplicity of the 911 seem to be drivers of its price than the mechanical worth of the car itself. Kind of like buying a $10k handbag, I suppose. Only so many are made and there are enough people wanting to spend $10k on a handbag. Sorry for shooting this thread off in a tangent! :thumbup:
  20. Had no idea about this break-in oil, I switched directly from Mobil 1 0-40 to DT-40. Since I did a direct swap without the break-in/flush, should I plan on changing the oil sooner than 5k miles? I am mildly annoyed by how sensitive these Porsches seem to be to oil. No car I have ever owned in the last dozen seemed to care what oil I ran through it. My M3 was advertised to go 15k between changes, though I did it every 7.5k. Same interval on my AMGs too. This is crazy to be fretting about oil changes and oil consumption in this day and age, not to mention in a premium car. What do we live in, the 1960s? I do like the 911, it has grown on me, but boy is it an acquired taste. End rant.
  21. I have only about 1000 miles on it since the switch to DT40, so this isn't an entirely informed point of view. Switching does seem to have helped. I haven't had the rattle appear again. And car sat for a week through the recent "Hercules" snow storm and subsequent polar vortex temperature dips. When I started it up this morning, it ran fine, no rattle. Whether DT40 mitigates the cold start rattle or not (I am reading that it does), I am a believer in it now. The car runs and "feels" soo much smoother. I have actually never truly felt a significant difference by switching oil brands and forumlas in all the vehicles I have owned over the years. But I can feel the positive difference with DT40.
  22. I got a note from Amazon yesterday that they anticipate shipping it earlier than the last advertised date of Feb 19. I think it said some time in January.
  23. Switched to DT-40 yesterday. Will keep an eye on it and post back up on whether the rattle minimizes/goes away. Thanks a lot for sharing guys,
  24. I have the Bentley manual but since this is very reasonably priced, I ordered this one too. Thanks for the link.
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