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Everything posted by NewArt1

  1. The newer model has the built in air diffuser on the bottom, which is cool, but apparently it also requires one to change the spoiler top which was modified. I found a good one of the right colour at a great price from a 986 forum member. :) The only down side was the shipping, which cost 3X what I paid for the cover! :o
  2. It's like in the computer, you can only get mpg calculations and not metric. Unless I am wrong, which would be cool!
  3. Some SOB in an SUV bashed the back of my Boxster! There's a bumper cover on e-bay for an 03-04. Will this fit my 01 S ?
  4. I don't think this is possible. I have an 01 California car and I searched for that same thing.
  5. Okay, you're referring to the upper half of the tube. Check the other part (hard plastic, bolted on to the crankcase near the alternator) for cracks while you're in there. Any leaks in this will cause you grief.
  6. I can tell you from experience that a hole in the oil filler tube will affect engine performance big-time. They get brittle with age and break quite easily. The part is a bit of a pain to replace but is doable with some patience (and a magnetic pick-up tool for the inevitable times that you drop the bolt! :censored: )
  7. I used the Battery Tender Jr. from Canadian Tire last winter. Works great, often on sale.
  8. Pulled off the cover and found that the unit is a 986.355.755.00 So I guess this is a 5.3. So I really don't know why I get that warning symbol but have never had any code associated with it. The symbol doesn't clear either. Everything seems to function normally. ???
  9. I have a fault icon showing in my Durametric ABS section, but there is no fault code. In my search, I found this post from another member: "Just to get back I talked to Owen at Durametric and he nailed the problem down to my 2001 Boxster has the 5.7 version ABS/DSC/PSM instead of the 5.3 version. The year the 5.3 changed to 5.7 was 2002." This may well be my situation as well. How do I know which version I have?
  10. I think that the "hard starting/coke bottle whistle" and the presence of these codes are not necessarily related ( correct me if I am wrong). I have the former situation but not the latter. JFP is probably right for the codes. Try spraying some carb cleaner at the various air connections in the engine bay with the motor idling. If it stumbles or increases in RPM, you've found your problem.
  11. Yes, I have this same problem. A search will reveal numerous posts that cover this topic but I have yet to find the solution. I have changed the gas cap, changed the gas tank bleeder valve ( attached to the filler tube), tested the valves with my Durametric and vacuum gauge, and blew out the lines with compressed air. Same old.
  12. Here's the tool I made from a 4" ABS fitting to remove the gas tank lid. Worked fine.
  13. Thanks to Gelbster in the 986 forum for pointing me to this post by Dale_K in the Pelican forum. In fact, it was the magnetic switch which was not inserted into the space provided for it in the valve. It had fallen out when I pulled the old valve but I didn't notice. I did see it but couldn't find any information on it until I saw this post If this unit isn't working you'll have trouble filling. Also the magnetic switch. A new one comes with a new vent valve.
  14. Gas tank. Need to remove that big screw cap. Went to Home Depot and bought a 4" (5" external) ABS fitting which I plan to modify to make the "special tool".
  15. Tested fuel evaporative valve in engine bay. Activates properly with Durametric. Holds vacuum until activated. Blew air through line. Tested again. Okay. E6 fuse replaced. Will do the TSB next.
  16. Yes, E6 was one of the first things I checked. Should I not hear a click when I push on the filler tube flap? I have also read theTSB. While this is a possibility, it seems a bit too coincidental that this should happen exactly at the same time that I changed the valve. If it turns out to be this, at least it's a cheap fix.
  17. Just a note to members making new posts: Please use the tags option when posting your question. It makes the search tool much more useful. Cheers.
  18. In the "If it ain't broke" category. :oops: Symptoms: Hard start when warm, after sitting for 15 minutes or so; intermittent Coke bottle sound (low whistle) at low speed. No problems fuelling car. Attempted solution: Changed bleeder valve, also known as fuel tank ventilation valve 99620114301. This valve is not electric but mechanical. The gas cap, when closed tightly, pushes a little piston which opens the valve to recirculate the vapours. Result: Can't put gas in the car! Takes about a litre then spits it back out at me! Okay, so I have obviously :censored: up royally here
  19. I know I have asked this question but it was buried down in an old thread started by someone else. So let me start anew: P0430. Bad cat bank 2. If it is indeed a failing catalytic converter ( and I am not sure of this as we all know that sometimes these pesky codes are cryptic and mean that it's really somebody else's fault), which cat is to blame? Logically it would be the pre-cat as the O2 sensors are found fore and aft of that one in the model that I have. If the main cat is monitored, I don't see how. Having found a nasty fouled and corroded O2 sensor on the aft side of the suspect pre-c
  20. If it's only at cold startup, it could just be a failing SAI pump
  21. Your SAI problem should not in itself cause a lack of power. However, the underlying cause of this situation (air leak or something) may also be at the root of your engine not performing as it should.
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