Mijostyn

Uh Oh. There are three microswitches that control the window. One in the outside door handle. Another in the inside handle. The third I'm pretty sure is in the door lock mechanism which is the one you nailed. It tells the computer that the door is open so, please keep the window cracked. The computer now thinks the door is closed so the window won't stay cracked. The two door handle switches tell the computer to crack the widow as the door is being opened. They still work. For the time being just keep a little pressure, just enough to crack the window on the door handles when you close the door. This will make the window engage its gasket properly. Getting to the lock means taking the door's inside trim panel and door carrier off. Replacing the microswitch means replacing the entire motorized lock assembly which after removing all the trim is simple. If it were my problem I would disconnect the battery, pray and blow some brake cleaner into the lock which will dissolve the oil and send it to the bottom of the door. The only thing in the line of fire is the door open marker light and it is on the other side of the door carrier out of the way. If you have some compressed air blow the lock out to dry if off. If this does not work you have to replace the lock assembly anyway. If it works you can laugh and have a beer.

If the door aligns perfectly and there is no sag than the striker may be a tad off. I was washing my car yesterday and noticed that the bolts holding the striker in place are not Torx but use some other splined drive. I hate it when the German's do this ----. It is probably their way of saying "nicht playin sie mit der striker" Make sure you clean all the excess oil off the door latch and striker or it will attract a lot of dirt and mess things up. Enjoy the car!

Thinking about it, there is one other possibility. Some one may have set the striker too high. Check the gap at the bottom of the door. If it is larger at the back than the front lower the striker just a tad and see how the door closes. Remember the stiker can also move in and out when you loosen the two Torx bolts. The door should be flush with the rear fender. it helps if you mark the strikers original position with a soft pencil or marker. Make sure the window seals correctly at the top after the adjustment. If you look at the geometry of the hinges there is no way to correct door sag without using shims between the door And the lower hinge. The only way for sag to develop is either hinge wear or bent sheet metal. (The door hinges could have been incorrectly welded to the car but somehow I doubt it. That is one thing the Germans are great at ...tolerances)

Huston we have a problem. The door should not drop a millimeter. If you are brave. Open the door wide. Next support the bottom of the door with a wood block on your floor jack. Bring the floor jack up just so it ever so slightly raises the door. DO NOT GET IN THE CAR WHEN YOUR DOOR IS ON THE JACK!!!. Next loosen the torx bolt that bolts the upper hinge to the door. Then tighten the hinge joint bolt to 9.5 ftlb. Retighten the hinge to door torx bolt to 17 ftlb. Repeat the procedure on the bottom hinge. Release the jack and see if this fixes the drop. If not then the hinges are shot. You may be able to just replace the hinge pins and bolts. Loren?? If the door does not align properly you could try to align it by alternately loosening the hinge to door bolts with the door supported and giving the door a tweak. But, it will be a trial and error process. It helps if you remove the striker pin to do this. The striker is also adjustable side to side and up and down, again a trial and error process. The door should be flush with the other body panels with an even reveal all around. Then fine tune the striker. You could always take it to a body shop with Porsche experience if you can't get it right.

The trunk release comes as part of the drivers side door sill. You have to buy the whole assembly. suncoastparts.com usually has them in stock as the sill is a wear item. Not sure about comparative pricing. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/997DSZ.html?Category_Code=997int

The problem with the doors is that the windows retract to open and close. This way they can get a good seal around the windows edge. This causes two problems. 1st is the rise in air pressure inside the cabin use to cushion the door as it closed. Just open and close the door on any of the air cooled cars. Perfect click. Next is that there is no good way to support the window without the frame of the older car so, it sort of flaps around, shuddering. If the door closes and locks and the window engages it's seal correctly then there is nothing left to do that I know of. Let me know when you are tired of chasing the rattles. My favorite isn't even really a rattle. It is the squeak of the leather seat bolster rubbing up against the center console. Not enough clearance or.. They could have carpeted the center console. You have to love those Germans. I'll take Jimi Hendrix any day. The PCM in my car electrocuted it to the tune of $9000. No kidding. Fortunately warranty. Way glad to be rid of it. IMHO all 911 jockeys should be music lovers. Nothing like the song of a flat 6 at full chat. Rock and Roll.

Hilux240, wiser words were never spoken :clapping:

Don't forget the cabin air filter. It is on the passenger side next to the battery. Make sure your brakes are ok. You should always know where your pads are. The more you get on it, the faster you will rip up your rear tires. Most of us get around 10K on the rears. Ranges from 6K to 12K depending entirely on your right foot. You better budget for a set of tires a year. I just put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on mine. They are less expensive than the N0, N1 tires, handle just as well and have a tread wear rating of 300 vs 220 for the others. It rained here yesterday and on one of my favorite roads the car did a perfectly controlled 4 wheel slide. Save up and get rid of the PCM. You can use a NAV-TV MOST Head Unit Replacement module to hookup any double DIN aftermarket NAV unit. I like Alpine. This way you get to keep your stock speakers and amps. There is a Double DIN mounting kit that has the factory finish bezel. You get state of the art NAV, great sound, perfect iPod integration and Blue tooth. All 911s rattle. The best way to deal with that is TURN UP THE MUSiC. Rock and Roll!!!

You could do it but not without spending a fortune. I have owned 911s with and without the wiper and I prefer without. It is ugly, it does not clear the entire window, and I rarely used it. All you have to do is treat your glass correctly and it will never be an issue. After you wash your car clean all your glass with One Grand Paste Glass Cleaner then treat the glass with Diamonite Shield. IMPORTANT!!! Do not let the Diamonite dry on the glass. After you spray it on, smear it around with one cloth to cover all the glass then immediately buff it out with another cloth. It is a real pain in the neck to get it off once it has dried. Also, you do not need a lot. Just mist it on. I do the windshield twice yearly and the other glass once in the Spring. Water and dirt will run right off. The stuff is super slippery.

Correct, it only penetrates the carpet and if you take your mats out frequently eventually the anchors will come out with the mats. Porsche finally now uses the Audi method with solid posts. Unfortunately, with Lloyd mats only the male side of the buckle is attached to the seat rail. The female side is sewn to a tab on the bottom of the mats. Depending on which mats you get and the options you load on they can be relatively inexpensive. Mine were $175 for all four with script and piping. Plain fronts are $124 http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/LLOYDMATSCarrera.html?Category_Code=996C2Floor%C2'>

Mike's solution is certainly the least expensive. I do not like those anchors or drilling more holes in the carpet. You can get a set of Lloyd's mats from Suncoast Parts. They have great anchors which hook on to the seat rail bolts and the mats clip to them. No Velcro.

In US cars the timer resets to 5 minutes. It seems everywhere else the timer resets to 6 minutes. My car does not care what you just did, fill up or supermarket as long as the car has sit with the engine off for 5 minutes and is fully warmed up just turn the key and you get the oil level.

Have new Super Sports on the stud. Car feels great. Ride is more supple than P Zeros. There seems to be a bit more road noise but it is tolerable. Now let's see how they wear. The only howl I here is air rushing over the car at 120 mph!!

jl-c obviously your car does not like filling up. I suggest you check your oil when you come out of the supermarket. Don't forget to get the Wurst und saurkraut.

The new TPMS sensors work great. In comparing them to the German units they are a little smaller and lighter. The only thing I like better on the german ones is the little tabs on the bottom of the sides. They sit down on the inside surface of the rim and keep the things from rocking during the install. That is about it. This is the old German unit. Notice the tabs. The Chinese version is just flat.

The rears have less offset so the C4S wheel will stick out 16 mm further. We all need to get this spacer issue straight. You can not just stick any old spacer you want on these cars. The limiting factor is the length of the wheel centering flanges on the hubs. Wheels ARE NOT LOCATED BY THE LUG BOLTS. They are indexed to the hub by the hub flanges through the wheel's center hole. Here you have a C4S front hub with the Porsche supplied 5mm spacer. The hub flanges also center the disc and the spacer. What you see left is 7mm of flange sticking out. I already have to be very careful taking my wheels off. If I do not hold the wheel tight against the disc when I remove the last bolt the wheel comes crashing down on the brake caliper. Here is a shot through a mounted wheel with the center cap off. See the flange?? It is holding on to the wheel by a mere 5 mm! If you put a 1 cm spacer on the car the flange would be holding on to AIR==NOTHING==NADA!!! It is now IMPOSSIBLE to center the wheel. This will result in a CRAP ride, SCALLOPED tires, DESTROYED wheel bearings and god knows what else. Unless you know someone who makes custom wheel hubs for these cars with longer flanges, DO NOT use anything more than Porsche's 5mm spacers and even these are a pain in the neck (experience talking). There are spacers that have a centering ring to index the wheel by its center hole. These spacers fit over the hub flanges and are centered by them but I still do not like them as they compound errors, the ring is machined out of the aluminum spacer which means the spacer itself has to be thicker to support the centering ring and you can not make a spacer this way at all that is thinner than the hub flanges are tall. Spacers between 5mm and 1.5 cm are pretty much out of the question. All this stuff also adds unsprung weight. You can get 17 and 21 mm spacers from Suncoast Parts that have centering rings. Best is just to stick with wheels that have a 51 mm or slightly less offset.

Jam996 there was another thread in which the owner complained of a similar issue. It turned out that the cable to the DVD drive in the trunk was loose. Personally, PCM of any version is trash. You can now replace it with an aftermarket head unit, a MOST head unit replacement module and keep all your amps and speakers stock. You can get the Best NAV with either Kenwood or Alpine, perfect iPod integration and Bluetooth and much better sound! This one is an Alpine INE-W927HD

In my car, as long as the car is fully warmed up, I just get in and turn the key to the run position and it automatically goes in to oil check mode. It this does not work, leave the key alone, do not start the car or you will reset the timer to 5 minutes. Scroll down through the menu with the small stalk on the left. Check your manual as I can't remember the exact routine and you should be able to trigger the oil check routine. If the oil is not fully warmed up to 215 F the routine will not run.

Sunset it is. However, Suncoast is fun to watch. If they have a trinket in stock it is usually below Porsche MSRP. I got my Speedster black stone guards for $52/ pair. Their web site is great to flip through for fun ideas. Also, when nobody could get my satin black chin spoiler (Porsche only had primed ones left) Suncoast had them in stock for $80 under Porsche MSRP. They will also special order you anything Porsche supplies but then they will knife you for it.

Great minds think alike! Don't scrape your knuckles and have a good time with the B Bop Tango (for you young squirts that is Frank Zappa's admonision for us to dance, and enjoy life! Check it out, Live at the Roxy and Elsewhere. There is a song in there that is dedicated to Wendelin Wiedeking called Cheapness.)

Sunday AM at the crack of dawn I'm going to a local parking lot that is used for autocross. All the markings are still there. My personal record is 1:58. Now that I am down to racing slicks and have a brand new left rear wheel bearing we are going for broke. I finally have a use for that Speed Chrono timer. After I set the record the old girl gets her new sneakers and TPMS sensors.

That is interesting. My manual says to replace them. JFP, Loren any thoughts on this? Porsche routinely wants you to replace hardware when an assembly is reconstructed but I know a lot of mechanics reuse it to save money. That circlip is subject to wear as the flange slides in and out of the dif with suspension action. If it is not broke, don't fix it. I would leave the good seal alone. It is one thing if you are into an assembly already but changing the good seal effectively doubles the job and the risk, like dropping the flange and damaging the splined shaft. As an example, you have to remove the flange to replace the seal, so why not replace the circlip while you have it out?

I just got a call back from the dealer. It is indeed a blown left rear wheel bearing. Always go for a car you can certify. I paid $2000 for a warranty that has cost Porsche so far...lets see...$12,000. Lets have a big round of applause for Wendelin Wiedeking. :clapping:

Nice trick! My daughter has a chirp in her Subaru with the wheel hard over. I suspect the accessory belt even though it seems tight. Will give the water a try!

The question is at what frequency is the chirping. When a wheel bearing goes you here a rhythmic grinding that goes at wheel revolution speed. As speed picks up it turns into a harmonic ringing. If you drop the clutch and take your foot off the gas the grinding/ringing continues at wheel rev speed. An accessory drive problem is going to sing at engine rev speed. When you drop the clutch and take your foot off the gas it will slow right down. Your chirping also occurs only under load and I can't see how an accessory drive problem would do that as it is not subject to an abrupt change in load under acceleration. Certainly, the wheel bearings, differential and transmission bearings are stressed under WOT conditions. My car likes to chirp at engine speed on cold start up. It goes away when the car is warm. Do not spray WD 40 on the belt. The solvents in it will attack the rubber. WD 40 is also very volatile. Any benefit it has as a lubricant is gone in about 72 hours. If a belt is slipping the solution is to increase the tension. Lubing the belt is only going to make it slip more. If you feel like you have to do something you can treat the belt with Meguiar's #40. Not sure that it will help any but at at least it can't hurt and your belt will be nice and black.