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Showing results for tags 'electrical'.
Found 20 results
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My drivers' side headlight was replaced by the dealership after an accident. It has worked fine for two years since, but recently decided to stop working. I get a "check dipped beam" message on the cluster as a result. The turn signals work, as does a single little light on the outer side of the assembly. The main and high beam do not. After taking it out to inspect, I noticed that the electrical harness connector on the back was the problem. When I could force it into the headlights socket, the lights all powered up and worked fine, as did the high beam. So a poor connection is the culprit. One of the tabs on the side of the white connector was broken off, so the connector wiggles in its place. I imagine that the force of the headlight being pushed back wiggled it just enough that it wouldnt' seat into the headlight assembly. But getting that white connector into the socket and then back into its place without being able to get my hand in from the rear of the light was not apparent. I also noted that the insulation on all the wires was terribly frayed and coming off in my hands as I examined it. But with a new connector in hand, I don't see how to wiggle the old one out. It slides in from the side on the back of the tray holding the headlight assembly, but is blocked from sliding out all the way. How do I rectify this? -
I have a 2004 Cayenne S. I just got it recently, interior lights have never worked. I checked the fuse and it was blown. It calls for a 20 amp fuse but the blown one in it was a 25 amp. I had the key in the ignition if I remember correctly and put the new 20 amp fuse in and everything came on. Side note, I noticed a weird glitch with the light above the rear passenger side door and the switch on the main map reading light. The interior lights had gone off and I turned the back on and the backlight above to passenger side door was very dim. I slid the switch on the overhead console for the main map light and the rear light came back to full strength. I found that odd. Everything then worked fine. I took the key out. Next time I put the key in, immediately heard the fuse blow. Any ideas on where to start? -
I am currently trying to repair my 2001 Boxster 2.7 as the coolant temperature gauge no longer reads and the coolant light is flashing at about 1 hz. The coolant temperature sensor pigtail had broken wires too close to the connector itself to effectively solder back together. I searched for several days and couldnt find anyone selling a specifically designated coolant temperature sensor pigtail, but the engine knock sensor pigtail seemed to fit. I installed that part and reconnected the wires with a good soldered connection and plugged everything in, unplugged the battery for about 10 minutes to reset the code, restarted the engine and was greeted with the same flashing light. The coolant temp sensor itself has been replaced, the coolant level is solid and the engine has been burped. Several times. Any thoughts? -
When battery is dead the electrical system is down, as is the trunk for accessing battery. I have tried connecting positive to red fuse and negative to door arm. I ran current using jump starter but could not get latch to open. Does anyone have any other ideas to open truck, e.g. force lift? Thanks in advance. Is this also true for current year C4S? Quote for 1999 911: <<There should be a release cable under one of the headlights. You need to use something to fish it out. If you do a search at renntech.org you will find it.>> Thanks -
I purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 about a year ago and I'm having a few problems with the electrical accessories. The top worked fine when I bought it, but now it won't work sometimes. The radio also turns on, then immediately off at startup, and it won' turn back on until a few minutes later either by itself, when I use turn signals, power windows, brake, or even just by itself. After the car is "warmed up", then it will stay on. Other things won't work right or not at all, such as the alarms for, ignition, door open, light switches, etc. The fuses are all fine, and I know the battery had been replaced right before I purchased it. I haven't checked the relay for the top, but I am about to do that now. I feel like there could be a single problem creating all these issues. Any help would be greatly helpful and appreciated! -
Hi cayenne 04 CTT weirdness the below list of functions was intermittent now nothing works buttons on steering wheel tiptromic button on steering wheel wipers cruise control pin out adjustment all functionality on the steering wheel except it steers perfectly all fuses are good errors as attached any ideas was intermittent -
Hello! I am running into some electrical issues that all happened at once. Here are the items that I found not functioning: Cluster Illumination, power seats, radio (PCM does not power on), engine lid switch (frunk works), HVAC (the screen is functioning, but not blowing any air). The car starts fine and runs. I initially thought maybe the ignition switch was faulty, so I went ahead and replaced but nothing changed. I have checked many fuses and they all look fine. There are no trouble codes. If it matters, this is the scenario when I noticed all the problems: I just finished driving about 70 miles with no problems. Park the car outside and it started to rain. I needed to move the car so I got back in and noticed when I turned the light switch to the first notch, cluster did not illuminate but the headlights worked when I turned it to the next notch. Then I started testing to find the other symptoms. Everything was working on the drive I took a few hours before. Though after the drive, I was messing with the light switch to see if the fog lights worked. I never use them and for whatever reason I wanted to test if it worked, so I was turning the light switch way more than usual I guess. I drive the car a few times a week as it is my main car. Thanks! -
Help had to flat bed my cayenne last night Issue as below 1. Cannot start the car 2.display says R 3. Reverse lights are on 4. Backup camera on 5.gear change can be moved doesn't change the display from R 6car is in neutral, how can I teenage gearbox after manually releasing under the gear nob following instructions in Porsche manual Steps 1. New battery 2. Read the codes as attached tried to clear no success they indicated something Else think due to the aftermarket kenwood 3 took apart and cleaned gear selector magnets are in place cleaned circuit board no bent pins My thoughts 1. Can it be the brake switch looks like it's a 10$ part ? 2. I was going the take out and switch the gear box selector with gear knob ? 3. How can I check if the gear selector cable is still impacted 4 freaking out Help any assistance pictures attached
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Anyone experienced this scenario? Upon turning ignition key, heard a click, and had no electrical power to anything on car. After opening hood and looking around I grasped the positive battery cable and pulled / jiggled slightly to check connection from where it disappears into the firewall (if you will) area, and all electrical power was restored... car started and everything fine? Next time I went to start car experienced the same scenario. My question is...where, what does positive battery cable connect to that would exhibit these symptoms. Thanks -
New to the forum and i am having a difficult time navigating.I am not even sure this was the way to ask a question by posting a new topic... If not i apologize. I bought a 2002 boxter with automatic transmission and only 68,000 miles. First boxter and I know very little about the car. Had the car sit in the garage for a couple of weeks after the purchase and found it completely dead. The used car dealer that sold it to me changed the battery. Since then I seem to be having all kinds of annoying electrical problems. The key fob decided not to work any more. I replaced the key fob battery twice. Still nothing. My driver rear running light does not work, worked fine before. I checked the bulbs, all are fine. So are all the fuses. My driver front running side marker light does not work either. Nothing major but annoying nonetheless. -
Hi my C4S (2003) has an intermittent issue with the console, sound and system errors, there are a few after market items the main one being and system to use ipod/phone which seems to have replaced the cd changer. My independent Porsche repair specialist has tested and looked at the wiring, replaced the Amp and the phone unit, bypassed the phone unit and the issue is still there. Today as an example I had to drive 60 KM , heavy motorway traffic outbound, Intermittant sound from start of journey but only quiet for short period second or two getting longer after about 45 minutes driving. Occassionally system error popped up “No phone, CD changer”. It also was intermittent when trying to play a CD on the console. On the return journey after 2 hours parked and switched off it was also intermittent more frequently and for longer say 10 secs. The console also twice went dark and seemed to repower up. Has anyone any ides what the issue might be or how to find it? Declan -
Hi there, I just picked up my new (to me) 1980 911 SC Targa and now I'm encountering my first glitch. Both power windows are not working! the fuse looks good. Could it be the relay? is there anyway of testing the relay or do you just have to buy a new one and try? Any advice is appreciated. Roch.
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2002 Boxster S, when I raise the passenger window using the center console switch the mirror heater turns itself on. Not a coincidence, happens repeatedly. I have looked thru the topics here and haven't seen this mentioned before. Any help will be appreciated before tearing into the dash with a meter. Thanks
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Hi All! Decided to start a new post but my original post is here if you'd like to follow the saga! http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45865-car-will-not-lock-with-key-removed/ My front trunk doesn't work and I'm trying to rule out the electrical switch by moving the cables to each of the other switches. But it is showing really odd behavior. Before I buy another front switch, I want to try and verify that my switch is broken. Here's how I tested: First I put the black (rear) on the front trunk switch and tested. Nothing, so I disconected it. Next I put the white (front) on the rear switch and tested. To my amazement, it opened the rear trunk. So, to recap, either connecter when attahed to the rear switch will open the rear, and neither connecter does anything when connected to the front trunk switch. I would not thiink this is the way this works, but...maybe. Can someone confirm that this is true? Thanks for any help you can provide! -
Have a 996 C4S Cabriolet and while topping off my hydraulic fluid this am (having problems closing top in the heat), I inadvertently did something that now has the car not starting, draining my battery, registering airbag and failure roll-over indicators, automatically extending the rear wing... Now when pressing the button to lower the top, it's providing intermittent power and clicking. I tried to follow a DIY on this site but couldn't get the fluid to stay in the hole. So I unbolted the hydraulic pump and turned it upside down. Still couldn't get fluid in so I put everything back together and called it a day. Tried to start the car and got all the errors listed above. Could I have shorted something out in the process? -
Hi All, I'm looking to replace a few worn out switches in the cabin of my 997 C2. I'm looking online to try to find parts (ie. hood and trunk release switch). What is the best supply source in your opinion, would you still recommend sunset parts for such items as well? Thank you, J -
My friend is having problems with a 1997 993. When you turn on the key, the warning lights stay on and the pressure switch shows high. He has replaced the instrument cluster and replaced the oil pressure switch and this still has not fixed the problem. He thinks that a wire is being pinched to cause this. Has anyone ever have this problem? Thanks again for any responses. Paul
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Two issues I can use some education. 1--Out of the blue, my battery has been drained a few times and I discovered that the hood and trunk panel lights--on the left side of the driver's side--doesn't turn off. All other accessory lights; door makers, dome, and dash do turn of after 3-5 minutes, or immediately with remote key lock. 2--About at the same time my convertible top computer module (996.618.111.04), below the second relay location, started to constantly click. It sounds like a blinking turn signal. Taking out fuse B5 at the foot fuse panel, stops the clicking. I have switched out the part (996.618.111.04) with a working loaner module but the clicking persists. Both problems persists whether I lock the car with or with out the key. And to complicates diagnostics: Both problems go away when the car engine is on and in driving operation. Thank you in advance for your help. Thuy -
New member here.. I bought my 944 in Oct.. and had one helluva ordeal a month after getting it.. I finally got it back this week! Does anyone have any scanned copies of the operation of the HVAC control unit (heating and AC) Many thanks for taking the time to review the post..
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Hi, I need urgent advice please, I have a Porsche Carrera 4 911 996 2001, water has been found underneath seat where control alarmbox is situated labelled M535, Part Number: 996.618.262.01, and it is quite serious as the water created an electrical fire that melted control unit. The wires seem slightly corroded and the car will not start. Dash lights illuminate and I have disconnect Control Box. The door has a clicking noise and will not open. I understand I need to have control box M535 changed that needs to be coded to new key form but curious as to your thoughts to the following: 1) Cost in replacing with new control unit and wiring loom? 2) How far does the wiring loom run if needs full replacement? Interested in your suggestions and projected cost in fixing the above.
