alw911@ashburnva.net

Help... I switched to my backup set of keys and the passenger mirror tilt on reverse is not programmed to the position as with my other set of keys. I looked in the my user manual page 49 and all it say is to move mirror to any position when in reverse. When I took the car out of reverse, it did not move back to normal drive position so I manually adjusted mirror back to normal driving position, then put car in reverse, and the mirror moved to the wrong setting again. When i switched back to first set of keys, it works fine. I searched the forums and can not find detained instructions for setting mirrors. Al 2001 996

Thanks! I will order the Pro Version with Option 1 just in case i get a car with the round connector. Al

I want to add a Professional Durametric kit to my list of Pcar Tools and not sure if I need to purchase Option 2 (includes extension cable) or not. My shop laptop is approximately 16 feet from the OBDII connector when the car is on the lift.To help me decide which option is needed, I have a few questions (was on hold with Durametric for 11 minutes this afternoon and decided to end the call and ask here instead.)How long is the OBDII/USB cable without the extension? Do you all find the cable too short and need the extension? My plans are to leave the laptop on the bench and just extend the cable into the car for coad reading, etc.Instead of using the OBDII extension cable will the the Durametric Pro kit work with a regular USB extension cable? I have a 996, and currently do not have a need for the round connector cable. Which Pcars have the round connectors? Thanks in advance, Al

For my cabrio, I found it easier to use a garden sprayer with the long spray rod/tube (15 inches) to reach into the drains along the sides of the convertible top. I am sure this will work for coupes sunroof area where space is limited also. An added benefit is that when I am done cleaning out the drain trays and drain tubes, I just fill water into the sprayer and spray water directly into the drain trays and tubes for flow testing.

Becker Gummy Knob Fix Becker radio sticky knob fix. I actually performed this fix on my radio knobs about 3 months ago, but did not want to post anything until I know it is capable of surviving the 90+ heat wave we get here in DC. Well the fix helded up with not degradation in the appearance, texture, and feel so here is what I did. (sorry no pics of the painting) 1. Remove knobs from the radio by pulling the knobs straight out 2. If the knob have been textured from prior attempts to clean the gum Author alw911@ashburnva.net Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 08/06/2013 01:41 PM Updated 03/15/2017 05:22 AM

Good question on the rear diff. I am by no means an authority on anything cars, but 2/32 is just about the thickness if a quarter. I assume a newer tire will be 2/32 taller or you can say the angle of the drive shafts going into the newer tire side of the diff is not matched to the other side. so what happens when the car is carrying a single passenger?? isn't the geometry of the right and left side no longer aligned/matched? If anything at all, wouldn't the premature wear be on the cv joints? I think we need a physicist to figure out the geometry.

My 2001 996 did not have a TPMS system option so I purchased a WASP system for $229.00 a while back and have been very pleased, It is very accurate and has been flawless. The system I purchased supports 5 wheels so the spare can be monitored also. The WASP system sensors are in their valve stem cap. No need to dismount tires and remount for sensor battery change. So far, I have only had one sensor fail (may have been 2 bad battery) but WASP replaced it for the cost of FedEx shipping. I have the receiver unit hard wired and is wedged in the little shelf under the steering column where the Porsche manual is normally stored.

Here is a trick I used to remove the thermostat from the housing.... Go to home depot and buy a 90 degree PVC pipe elbow (or look or a piece laying around) that fits over the top of the thermostat cut two notches on the pvc elbow so that it can push on the thermostat tabs and rotate to release the thermostat from the housing. The PVC I had laying around in the garage was 1 1/2 inch (I did not measure it). To make the notch, I just attacked it with the bench grinder. Sure file will do also. Notch only needs to be 1/8 inch deep and about 1/2 inch wide. Here is a pic

Is the water pump just free floating and no longer physically attached to the engine case and or gasket? Did you loosen the engine carrier bracket and shift it away from the engine? Also did you unbolt the metal lines from the side of the oil pan and shift them out of the way? I was able to replace my water pump, do a complete coolant drain and refill with an airlift in less than 3 hours.

To make room, remove the thermostat hose and shimmy it to the left and down. See the following DIY tutorial. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/49-water-pump-replacement/

Here is the link to the fobs for a 2001 996 cabrio. I purchased 2 at 130.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/350330881017?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Just looked at the receipt, it was $69.50 to program the 3 fobs and 3 keys.

I have no idea if the line is hot when ignition is on or only when wipers is on. I will do a quick test with a volt meter this weekend. Al

I just recently (Last week of June 2013) had 2 keys made from the valet key. Here is what i did... Took picture of my valet key and emailed to keysinthepost.com (found them on ebay, yes they are in the UK). For 28.00, I received 2 metal key blades cut to fit my car (tested and it turns door and ignition locks). Contacted Tysons Porsche (in Vienna Virginia) and was quoted $225 per key fob and $89 for each blade cut for my car and $130.00 service to get them programmed., I requested the part number for the fobs as they claim there could have been different key fobs for the car. Then I searched the part number on ebay and purchased 2 new fobs (130.00 each in the original Porsche baggie with tags) for 260.00. shipped to my mail box in less than a week. Took both fobs with my precut blades installed in the fobs to Tysons Porsche for programming. Tysons Porsche only charged me 1/2 an hour (65.00) to program both keys, not the full hour the parts guy thought. And they vaccummed out the inside of my car! I bet they would have washed it had it not been raining! Total damages - $ 353 ($28 for 2 precut blades, 260.00 for 2 fobs, and 65.00 for programming) for 2 completely functioning key Total time - just a bit over 1 week.

I would like to reconfigure my upper and lower console so the radio is on the top slot followed by the climate controller in the upper console and on the lower console, have 2 storage bin/shelf on the lower. It is currently configured with cup holder, radio, cd holder and climate controller on the bottom. Do I need any brackets, face plates, etc to make this happen? Are the existing wire harnesses long enough?

Other than the usual info such as all the techs are well seasoned with both air and water cooled blah, blah, blah...I had a great expereince with Taylor and his techs. While my car was being serivced, i was invited to stop by and follow the progress of the work being done, and if I coud not stop by, Taylor offered to take pictures and email them to me. I opted to stop by on my way home from work. And becasue most P-car owners like to work on their own car, I had a boat load of questions that Taylor and his techs welcomed. Before my car was up in the air, I asked Taylor about tips/tricks in relacing my water pump and he walked me to another 996 that was in the air and basically gave me a crash course on how to replace the water pump and thermostat. He even pointed out the points on the engine where I can place the under the hoist stand to raise the engine to take the load off the front mounting plate. This is just one example. I had many more questions that they welcomed. Cost... I called around to 3 other reputable shops in the Northern Virginia area and the cost was not the absolute lowest but not anywhere near the hightest or what the Dealer wanted, If I recall correctly, clutch, bearing, flywheel bolts rear main seal and LN Engineering IMS bearing install was $2600. When I added replacement of the AOS to the list, Taylor only charged 1 hour labor to install, for the slave cylinder 1/2 hour labor, and he did not even charge labor for the fuel filter installation or for the flywheel. Because I was there daily. the communication was excellent. Had I not been able to stop by, Taylor offered email (with pics) as an option. When I stopped by to pick up the car, Taylor and Andrew actually walked me through what was done, maintenance that need to be done and the sequence as to what I may want to do first, and they even packaged all the old parts in plastic bags and boxed it up for me. They also blew all the misc leaves and debris from all the little hiding places and even cleared out all the drain. Overall the I would would have to give 5 stars (out of 5) for Tayor and his team.

Back in the mid 80’s I watched a local audio stereo installer fill in the space above the spare tire and other spots in the trunk area of a CRX before fitting with a board and carpeting and installing amps . Recalling from memory… A board was first form fitted to the area being filled Then he laid in a 55 gallon drum size plastic liner over the trunk area, and dumped the liquid in the bag using a garden watering can The board was then laid on top of the bag of liquid foam that turned into a solid within 10 minutes The board was removed, and the foam was trimmed cut in half for easy removal Adhesive spray was applied all over the underside of the board and foam and glued together. Bet you could do something like this using the liquid foam crack filler/insullator found at local home centers.

I used a 1/4" drive swivel 10mm socket + extension. See post #15 here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/10175752-post15.htmlJust use a little bit of electrical tape to tape the bolt onto the socket and remove the tape once the bolt is in but not tightened. I just replaced my thermostat and water pump last week and it was actually very easy to get to all the bolts. I removed the bolts from the hard coolant lines and shifted all the hosed out of the way. Then I was able to start and stung all the thermostat housing bolts by hand, then torqued to 7.5 ft/lb. As for the water pump bolts, i removed and installed the bolts on the bottom and to the left of the pump from the bottom and the top bolts and the ones up against the engine block from the top. I used a wobble extension on a short 10mm socket on a 1/4 in ratchet. In total including flushing and refilling the coolant system with a UView tool took 3 hours.

Here is the link to Porsche's official online parts catalog where you should be able to find all part numbers. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/996_USA_KATALOG.pdf Al

Based on your pic, it looks extremely close to the plastic cover that covers the center latch on the hard top on my 01 996. The part number is what is molded into the inside of the part. look at this thread. It has a pic if the part. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/676641-hardtop-retrofit-kit-install-2.html

# 5 looks like the cover for the hardtop latch. Part number 996-563-551-01c

My 996 has finally rolled 51K on the clock, so I have been doing some maintenance. Last week, I had the clutch replaced, dual mass fly wheel replaced, AOS replaced, Clutch release bearing replaced, slave cylinder replaced, rear main seal replaced, LN Engineering IMS kit installed, oil changed, transmission oil changed, and fuel filter replaced (all done at Chapman Auto Works.) This coming weekend (or when all parts arrive, I will be doing some maintenance on the other end of the motor. I will be ordering parts on Monday 6/24/2013. I will be replacing the water pump and gasket, thermostat and gasket as well as flushing the cooling system, replacing the serpentine belt, idler roller, and belt tension roller. And…. After I finish the back end of the motor I will be (in 2 weeks) rebuilding all 4 calipers, replacing all pads and rotors as well as replacing all 4 O2 sensors as Taylor Chapman’s scans shows the sensor are aging and voltage is low. So am I forgetting anything? Recommendations? Tips? Al