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  • From
    Alexandria, VA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    92 VW Corrado SLC
    03 VW GTI VR6
  • Future cars
    Boxster S
  1. Hey all - My '00 S has started leaving dime-sized spots of oil on the garage floor when left overnight. After finally building up the confidence to climb under the car (i feared rear main failure, and a brief chat with my service advisor revealed that the car was 1.5 months out of CPO warranty, and led to a scolding for using "RMS" as a substitute for "rear main seal," but that's a whole different story...), it turns out that the leak originates from the pass-side rear firewall area. The oil filler line has been cracked for a while now, but that's only caused visible leaks while refilling
  2. Replacing the CV boots is not a terrible job, but messy, and involves disassembling the CV joint, cleaning it, and repacking. The only special tools would be a set of cv boot pliers (for re-fitting the boot clamps) and whatever special bit is required to fit the cv joint bolts (can't remember the shape, off the top of my head). There are at least 2 decent sets of instructions for rebuilding cv joints available online... But maybe you can clear something up for me - the car is still at the body shop? Are you able to work on it there? Because if you are, you'll need to figure out a way to
  3. porscheguy - thanks for answering everyone's questions. I just placed my order through cabrioworld last night, so hopefully my experience turns out as well as yours. for those asking questions about top installation/removal, just wanted to chip in that a $25 subscription to alldatadiy.com gets you fairly comprehensive instructions (on that and a lot of other things). I'm not affiliated with them or promoting them, but I just thought I'd throw that out there, since those are the instructions I plan on using
  4. Great post guys. My window just cracked yesterday, and I think I'll replace it with this top instead of replacing the plastic...especially if I can manage the install myself (PorscheGuy - is there a lot of adjustment and alignment involved?) Just got word from GAHH - $695 is a sale price for this month only (I was asking why the glass was cheaper than plastic). Also, (since it was mentioned concerning the BAS top) in addition to the service position question, can someone confirm the GAHH top works with the storage/speaker box in place? -f
  5. Brought back from the dead to ask if there were any more suggestions for repairing small cracks. Mine broke at the edge (while doing the Boxster chop today) - crack is about 3/4" long. The new aftermarket glass window tops look nice, but I don't want to go through the expense for such a small break. (Bob - you've got PM from a local guy.)
  6. So, 2 months later and I finally fixed the problems. It's nice to have my car back to normal (now if only it would stop snowing so I could drive it) Just wanted to thank those that helped me out, especially Ed, who spent a good chunk of time helping me find the right tool to separate the lower ball joint (Porsche tool 9560). The only other thing missing from the instructions I came across was having to loosen the lower control arm so I could push the hub down far enough to separate it from the strut (I marked the original alignment). As hard as I tried, the bushing was too stiff for me
  7. I just replaced the inner boots also. The strange thing was that, when I had it at the shop, the service manager said he had only seen 1 torn boot in all the years around Porsches, and mine had 2. At least I'm not alone... As mentioned above, the job isn't too bad. To get the axle nut off, I used a breaker bar and slid a 3 foot pipe over the end (and it was still fairly hard). I also had a heck of a time breaking the lower ball joint connection to get the hub out of the way, and had to buy a $150 tool for it. And if you go to the dealer to get parts, be prepared to leave some cash - the
  8. Sorry, guess I wasn't clear - and again, I'm asking for no other reason than to add to my general automotive knowledge. I'm pretty sure that front wheel drive cars generally use different weights of grease in the CV joints, depending on which side of the axle you're considering. Since the outer joints experience the added stress of the wheels being steered, they typically use a heavier grease, right? So my question is, do RWD cars usually adhere to this principle, or just use the same grease on all the CV joints, since both joints on either side of an axle see similar loads/stress?
  9. Thanks for the help, Loren. Just out of curiosity, do you even remember seeing a different spec grease for the inner vs. outer cv joints, or is this typically something only for FWD?
  10. I recently purchased a tube of NR Optimoly grease, PN 000 043 110 01 from the dealership and then realized I forgot to specify that I needed grease to repack the inner joint (transmission side). Could somebody please verify that I have the correct weight grease, or whether there is even a difference for RWD cars. TIA
  11. Thanks for another reply. I didn't think the CV joints would cause the noise either, but a tech did say that a bearing was bad. In my first (failed) attempt to replace it, spinning the hub by hand made a pretty noticeable grinding noise, so I'm inclinded to believe that diagnosis for now. I ordered a ball joint tool to solve my problems, and I'm looking forward to replacing the bearing and repacking the CV joint boots (you wouldn't believe the price of the grease) next week. Like I said, I'm pretty sure the bearing needs replacing, and hopefully that's all that's wrong. If the noise pers
  12. ar - thanks for having patience and sticking with this to help me out. Again, I followed all the steps you listed, but I've had several problems executing. -With the lower support bar in place, I can push down on the assembly only until the control arm bumps against the edge of the bar. That doesn't even let me get the strut out the tower, let alone the whell well. Turns out removing the bar didn't help entirely, but I got a lot closer, and it might have worked if I had help. -At the same time, I see no way to slide the driveshaft out with the carrier still attached, as you mentione
  13. All right, I give up...for now. I've put a torch to this thing and banged on it with a brass hammer, but the lower ball joint refuses to pop out. I asked the local service manager and he said they use a $400 tool in the back, and somebody on this board mentioned a $80 tool from Performance Products. Anybody have info on either? At this point, I'm willing to pay for either tool, since it would still be cheaper, and since I'll probably have to do this job in another 30K miles...
  14. Loosened the axle nut, tie rod, driveshaft and sway bar, and of course the lower ball joint nut, and I've used generous amounts of PB Blaster. I'm considering taking off the support strut that runs at a diagonal underneath everything, because then I'm pretty sure I can push the assembly down far enough to get the strut out. But I don't see that getting me enough room to get the driveshaft out (header's in the way), and as long as the outer CV joint is in place, I can't get a clear shot to bang the lower ball joint out (say, with a torx bit, ratchet extension, and hammer). Does anybody
  15. All right - took the car to the shop and it turns out one bad bearing and 2(!) torn inner CV boots. So I'm in the garage tearing the car apart right now, but I'm stuck. All the bolts are off the hub carrier and the strut is free at the top, but I can't get enough room to slide the strut out from it's mount. The lower control arm wedges against the bottom strut support, so I can't push the whole assembly down far enough to get the top of the strut out (need about another inch). The strut also seems to be pretty well stuck in the carrier, so I can't separate those two parts, either. Anyb
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