Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

sleepy

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    20

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by sleepy

  1. sleepy
    Hey all - My '00 S has started leaving dime-sized spots of oil on the garage floor when left overnight. After finally building up the confidence to climb under the car (i feared rear main failure, and a brief chat with my service advisor revealed that the car was 1.5 months out of CPO warranty, and led to a scolding for using "RMS" as a substitute for "rear main seal," but that's a whole different story...), it turns out that the leak originates from the pass-side rear firewall area. The oil filler line has been cracked for a while now, but that's only caused visible leaks while refilling after the 2 oil changes I've done, whereas now there is a significant amount of oil everywhere. I don't think its the air/oil separator - a vagcom scan shows no code, theres no unusal smoke on startup, and the AOS is covered in oil residue from top to bottom. But a nearby coolant line (yellow arrows in pics - runs to the oil cooler?) is a little frayed at the quick-connect coupling, and the best story I can think of is that it's spraying coolant when pressurized, and that spray mixed when the oil from the cracked filler is getting everywhere. questions - does the spraying coolant theory even make sense? - the oil filler pipe is the only line carrying oil through that area of the firewall, correct? Are there any other hoses to check for leaks - any suggestions on other places to check? thanks
  2. sleepy
    Replacing the CV boots is not a terrible job, but messy, and involves disassembling the CV joint, cleaning it, and repacking. The only special tools would be a set of cv boot pliers (for re-fitting the boot clamps) and whatever special bit is required to fit the cv joint bolts (can't remember the shape, off the top of my head). There are at least 2 decent sets of instructions for rebuilding cv joints available online... But maybe you can clear something up for me - the car is still at the body shop? Are you able to work on it there? Because if you are, you'll need to figure out a way to counter-torque the axle when you're removing the cv joint bolts. If you're going to do this after you get the car back, then just be aware that getting the axle out is a little involved... As for the "brake shoes" - do you mean for the parking brake? Unless I'm misunderstanding how the rear brakes work, you should only have to replace the pads.
  3. sleepy
    porscheguy - thanks for answering everyone's questions. I just placed my order through cabrioworld last night, so hopefully my experience turns out as well as yours. for those asking questions about top installation/removal, just wanted to chip in that a $25 subscription to alldatadiy.com gets you fairly comprehensive instructions (on that and a lot of other things). I'm not affiliated with them or promoting them, but I just thought I'd throw that out there, since those are the instructions I plan on using
  4. sleepy
    Great post guys. My window just cracked yesterday, and I think I'll replace it with this top instead of replacing the plastic...especially if I can manage the install myself (PorscheGuy - is there a lot of adjustment and alignment involved?) Just got word from GAHH - $695 is a sale price for this month only (I was asking why the glass was cheaper than plastic). Also, (since it was mentioned concerning the BAS top) in addition to the service position question, can someone confirm the GAHH top works with the storage/speaker box in place? -f
  5. sleepy
    Brought back from the dead to ask if there were any more suggestions for repairing small cracks. Mine broke at the edge (while doing the Boxster chop today) - crack is about 3/4" long. The new aftermarket glass window tops look nice, but I don't want to go through the expense for such a small break. (Bob - you've got PM from a local guy.)
  6. sleepy
    So, 2 months later and I finally fixed the problems. It's nice to have my car back to normal (now if only it would stop snowing so I could drive it) Just wanted to thank those that helped me out, especially Ed, who spent a good chunk of time helping me find the right tool to separate the lower ball joint (Porsche tool 9560). The only other thing missing from the instructions I came across was having to loosen the lower control arm so I could push the hub down far enough to separate it from the strut (I marked the original alignment). As hard as I tried, the bushing was too stiff for me to push the assembly far enough down. Just curious if anybody else has encountered that...
  7. sleepy
    I just replaced the inner boots also. The strange thing was that, when I had it at the shop, the service manager said he had only seen 1 torn boot in all the years around Porsches, and mine had 2. At least I'm not alone... As mentioned above, the job isn't too bad. To get the axle nut off, I used a breaker bar and slid a 3 foot pipe over the end (and it was still fairly hard). I also had a heck of a time breaking the lower ball joint connection to get the hub out of the way, and had to buy a $150 tool for it. And if you go to the dealer to get parts, be prepared to leave some cash - the CV joint grease they sell goes for more than $30/tube alone. For the record, my dealer quoted $350 for the job, per side. No better justification for doing a job like this yourself.... As for the tire wear, that definitely doesn't sound right (my Conti's lasted more than 15K miles). Have the alignment checked after replacing the boots.
  8. sleepy
    Sorry, guess I wasn't clear - and again, I'm asking for no other reason than to add to my general automotive knowledge. I'm pretty sure that front wheel drive cars generally use different weights of grease in the CV joints, depending on which side of the axle you're considering. Since the outer joints experience the added stress of the wheels being steered, they typically use a heavier grease, right? So my question is, do RWD cars usually adhere to this principle, or just use the same grease on all the CV joints, since both joints on either side of an axle see similar loads/stress?
  9. sleepy
    Thanks for the help, Loren. Just out of curiosity, do you even remember seeing a different spec grease for the inner vs. outer cv joints, or is this typically something only for FWD?
  10. sleepy
    I recently purchased a tube of NR Optimoly grease, PN 000 043 110 01 from the dealership and then realized I forgot to specify that I needed grease to repack the inner joint (transmission side). Could somebody please verify that I have the correct weight grease, or whether there is even a difference for RWD cars. TIA
  11. sleepy
    Thanks for another reply. I didn't think the CV joints would cause the noise either, but a tech did say that a bearing was bad. In my first (failed) attempt to replace it, spinning the hub by hand made a pretty noticeable grinding noise, so I'm inclinded to believe that diagnosis for now. I ordered a ball joint tool to solve my problems, and I'm looking forward to replacing the bearing and repacking the CV joint boots (you wouldn't believe the price of the grease) next week. Like I said, I'm pretty sure the bearing needs replacing, and hopefully that's all that's wrong. If the noise persists though, thanks for giving me something else to check out.
  12. sleepy
    ar - thanks for having patience and sticking with this to help me out. Again, I followed all the steps you listed, but I've had several problems executing. -With the lower support bar in place, I can push down on the assembly only until the control arm bumps against the edge of the bar. That doesn't even let me get the strut out the tower, let alone the whell well. Turns out removing the bar didn't help entirely, but I got a lot closer, and it might have worked if I had help. -At the same time, I see no way to slide the driveshaft out with the carrier still attached, as you mentioned in a previous post. Even with the lower support bar gone, the exhaust header/cat is in the way. - I'm not planning on changing the bearing myself - I'll let the machine shop handle that - but they need the hub first... - ...which is still stuck to the control arm. Sorry if I don't sound very focused - it's just that solving any one of my 3 problems (driveshaft, strut, ball joint) gives me enough room to get the hub carrier out. I checked Performance's website and didn't see anything about the ball joint either - I'll try calling them. Anybody else have any info on this tool?
  13. sleepy
    All right, I give up...for now. I've put a torch to this thing and banged on it with a brass hammer, but the lower ball joint refuses to pop out. I asked the local service manager and he said they use a $400 tool in the back, and somebody on this board mentioned a $80 tool from Performance Products. Anybody have info on either? At this point, I'm willing to pay for either tool, since it would still be cheaper, and since I'll probably have to do this job in another 30K miles...
  14. sleepy
    Loosened the axle nut, tie rod, driveshaft and sway bar, and of course the lower ball joint nut, and I've used generous amounts of PB Blaster. I'm considering taking off the support strut that runs at a diagonal underneath everything, because then I'm pretty sure I can push the assembly down far enough to get the strut out. But I don't see that getting me enough room to get the driveshaft out (header's in the way), and as long as the outer CV joint is in place, I can't get a clear shot to bang the lower ball joint out (say, with a torx bit, ratchet extension, and hammer). Does anybody know if there is a special tool available for separating the lower control arm from the wheel carrier? Any problems with me taking the lower support strut out (alignment)? What are the torque values on those bolts?
  15. sleepy
    All right - took the car to the shop and it turns out one bad bearing and 2(!) torn inner CV boots. So I'm in the garage tearing the car apart right now, but I'm stuck. All the bolts are off the hub carrier and the strut is free at the top, but I can't get enough room to slide the strut out from it's mount. The lower control arm wedges against the bottom strut support, so I can't push the whole assembly down far enough to get the top of the strut out (need about another inch). The strut also seems to be pretty well stuck in the carrier, so I can't separate those two parts, either. Anybody have any ideas?
  16. sleepy
    Thanks for the help so far, especially to ar308070, who posted all the torque values I'll need in a different thread. After looking at a parts diagram, I've got 3 questions about pulling the hub/wheel carrier - 1) any tool suggestions for separating the ball joints other than a pickle fork, 2) how is the strut connected to the carrier, and is it difficult to separate and 3) what needs to be marked to try to save the alignment? As for the CV joint, I've never done that kind of work before, so more help would be greatly appreciated.
  17. sleepy
    So, finally talked to the service manager, and turns out none of the parts are covered under CPO. Remote chance at good will coverage since I had taken the car in 6 months ago (and 2 weeks before going out of new car warr.) because I thought I was hearing the bearing starting to go, but at the time, they told me it was tire noise and sent me on my way. I find out what's wrong Tuesday, but unless the cost is somehow miraculously covered, I'll do the work myself. I've pulled the hubs off cars before to have a machine shop press in bearings, so I'm not too worried if that's the problem. I'll just need somebody to post the torque values for all the bolts, if possible, and any tips would be appreciated. But what about the CV joint? Actually, my first dumb question is, is the joint on the gearbox side of the driveshaft even called a CV joint? And please tell me it's a separate, replaceable part, because I saw a parts sheet for the driveshaft that only showed the outer CV joint as separate. And will it definitely have to be replaced, or is it possible replacing the boot and repacking the grease might take care of it?
  18. sleepy
    While sitting here waiting for the service manager to return my call, figured I'd see if anybody else has had a similar experience. I have an '00 S that's been making a very loud roaring road noise that I thought was worn tires. Replaced the tires and the car is still making the noise. The noise drowns out the engine note above 35mph, increases with speed, and remains present when turning left or right or dipping the clutch/coasting. Also, when driving near a wall or fence, I can here the echo of a metallic ticking noise on the right side (this might not be related) I was thinking bearings, but jacked the car up and the wheel seems stable. I also noticed a tear in the inner CV joint boot, which is pretty well covered in grease. Will worn CV joints make a loud constant noise? Regardless of whether it's the cause, can the joint be repacked? And most importantly, does anybody know if these parts (bearings, joints, driveshafts, etc) are covered under the CPO warranty! I did a search and came across 1 or 2 similar posts, but they didn't follow through to the cause. Any tips for diagnosis would be appreciated. Years of dealing with VW dealerships have made me skeptical, so I like to go into the shop knowing as much as possible beforehand. Thanks
  19. sleepy
    Thanks for the quick responses. I've seen the parts offered by Porsche - frankly, I'm just trying to be cheap about this, since the GTI with said parts is now in the custody of my mother, who doesn't care for the extra devices. Regardless, a VW mirror + rain sensor can be had for less than the Porsche mirror alone. Of course there are several things which could prevent this from working (and probably will) - I just figured I'd start on the wiring topic. I won't see the VW for a couple weeks, but I'll see about sizing/fitting/mounting issues then. In the meantime, any instructions/wiring diagrams for the Porsche mirror/rain sensor would be very helpful and most appreciated.
  20. sleepy
    Hi all. Just purchased an '00 Box S with 20K miles (thanks to Ted Williams Porshce in B-ham, AL) and after 3 weeks with it, I love the car. Previous car was an '03 VW GTI VR6, which I also loved, but I now fully understand the difference between a "sporty" car and a "sports" car. That being said, I have to admit that I do miss a couple luxuries - other than cupholders - and I would like to explore the possibility of adding an auto-dim mirror and (less importantly) rain sensor. I really don't want to spend ~$600 doing this, so I got to thinking - why not use the VW parts (the mirror and sensor come in one unit). My first thought is that the mirror wouldn't be a problem - just run power, ground, and a reverse gear sensor, since all the electronics are contained in the mirror, correct? But does anybody know about the workings of rain sensors and how they connect with the windshied wipers? I'm guessing there's some special relay to connect the two. Any help, suggestions, wiring diagrams, reasons why this won't work, etc would be greatly appreciated. -f
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.