Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About RHP_CO

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
    Erie, Colorado, USA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1999 Porsche 911 (996)
  1. Some additional details. There are actually two brown/blue wires. On my '99, they come out of the cable bundle on the right side of the radio opening. (Most of the wires run to the right-side toggle switches.) The stereo shop that installed the nav/radio system for the previous owner tied both brown/blue wires together and used an in-line connector to electrically short the brown/blue wires to the main brown electrical ground. The reason I mention this is that you should disconnect the two brown/blue wires from where they are currently shorted and tape them off. You should also ensure that the location they were ground at is not left exposed. For example, if wire was stripped back on one of the main ground wires, then it would be good practice to take that off as well. If the brown/blue wires were grounded to some portion of the metal chassis, then there is nothing else you need to do besides tape off them brown/blue wires.
  2. Problem was the radio wiring after all. The installer tied the security wire to ground, which is the wrong thing to do. Thanks for the help everyone. Rob
  3. Thanks brihakwilles for the comments. Since I last reported, I've been working with Durametrics staff to collect logs and to try out newly modified configuration files. Durametrics has acknowledged there is an issue reading the Inputs under the Alarm section. Durametrics has been very helpful and responsive. The last configuration file we tried had a lot of the inputs working correctly so I believe they are close to a solution, which I suspect will be in the form of updated .config file. I have been using the lastest version of the software, as confirmed by Durametrics, so it would be interesting to hear from you if you Inputs are truly working under the Alarm module. For example: 1. Connector you Durametrics cable to your car (what year is yours?). 2. Start the car and then connector the USB cable to your PC. 3. Start the Durametrics software (version and select the startup options for your car. 4. Select Inputs under the Alarm module. You should now to viewing the inputs from the Alarm module at a rate of approximately 1 Hz. 5. Scroll down to view the driver's door, passenger door, frunk, hood, central locking button, and console compartment. Then toggle the status of those inputs (e.g. open and close each door, frunk, hood, and center console compartment and toggle state of central locking button). 6. The corresponding inputs do not change in response to your actions, at least they don't on my '99 996. 7. If by chance your inputs do toggle state correctly, then please let me know as I would like to pass this information on to Durametrics. Please include the make, model, and year of your car. The root cause appears to be some confusion surrounding how to properly decode the status words returned from the Alarm Control Module. Again, I believe Durametrics is close to a fix. I will make a final posting once Durametrics distributes the final fix. Regarding my car's specific problem (i.e. the improper arming of the alarm system), I believe I've been able to trace it down to the passenger door or radio. I manually checked the frunk and hood switches, and verified the motion sensors are working by reaching in through the moon roof with the car armed. The last prototype version of the .config file did show my driver's and passenger's door inputs working, just not under the correct input name. However there are other switches involved in the arming process that may be at fault. I do have a third party radio - came with the car - and I pulled it to check the grounding and it appeared to be correct but I've since read that there may be another grounding wiring that I may have missed. Thanks again for your feedback. And please do let me know if your Alarm inputs are working correctly. Rob
  4. I spoke with Durametrics just now and they said that others have reported the same issue with the software - i.e. the Inputs listing under the Alarm section does not update all parameters. They asked that I record a special log file and send that on to them and I'll try to get to that tonight. Durametrics believes they will have a software fix (revision) within 6 to 8 weeks but that is just an estimate. So the goods news (for me) is my Alarm Control Module is probably okay. I suspect now that my problem is either the center console micro-switch or the passenger sensor. I'll report back when Durametrics comes out with the software fix. Thanks again for the help.
  5. Thanks Loren. I believe I'm using the latest software version from Durametrics. I did try to uninstall/re-install the software but the results were the same. I'll take a look at the center console micro-switch (if it is not too hard to get to). If that switch, or any other primary switch, was bad, would an Alarm Fault be generated or would I get just what I'm seeing? Thanks again.
  6. Greetings Renntech members. I'm new to Renntech and Porsche. I recently purchased a 1999 Carrera 996 (36K miles) and the alarm system has never worked correctly. I did not know that a single horn beep after remote locking was not normal until I had a chance to read the manual. (My American cars normally beep once after remote lock.) Symptoms: After remote locking the car the horn beeps once and then the dashboard LED goes into 2-flash mode, which I understand means one or more issues exist. I bought the Durametrics unit and hooked it up. This is where I'm getting confused. No fault conditions exist under the Alarm section. When I go into the Inputs mode, where one can view in near real-time the status of manual inputs to the Alarm System Module, only one input responds to physical changes: the internal lock switch near the radio does cause one of the display inputs to toggle. However I can open/close the trunk, hood, driver's door, and passenger's door but see no changes to any display input. I pulled the trunk and hood micro-switches and both are working correctly (open when trunk/hood is closed and closed when trunk/hood is open). The windows in both doors behave correctly (i.e. window drops 10 mm when open, stays down while open, and then moves back up 10 mm when door is closed). And everything else on the car works perfect. If I leave the trunk, hood, or passenger door open (on purpose) and remotely lock the car, the alarm system behaves the same (single horn beep and double flash on the LED), so it is clearly not recognizing these fault conditions. It is only when I leave the driver's door open on purpose does the alarm system respond: beeps once and does not activate the alarm system. I understand that the Durametrics system is not perfect so I'm wondering what you guys think. Are all the large number of non-responsive inputs in the Durametrics software just a "limitation" of the Durametrics hardware/software or should I be suspecting that my Alarm Control Module is bad? If the Durametrics software does have limitations, then I may attempt to open up the doors and manually test all those switches, as well as the passenger sensor, but I don't want to go there if I don't have to. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Great website and great car!
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.