stutzchris

I will get readings and post them in the next day or so .... Thanks .... Than aftermarket exhaust has no visible branding. It is a Cat back chrome system.

Thanks Ahsai. I will order a MAF today ... Start there ...

Okay. Been driving My2001 a bit now and CEL came on second time ... Reset when I changed aging battery a month and a half ago. I am suspecting after market exhaust has a bit to do with it. Cleared a while back and just came back after hammering a bit. Durametrics Codes: P1128 PORSCHE 360-oxygen sensor adaptation idle range bank 1 P1130 PORSCHE 361-oxygen sensor adaptation idle range bank 2 P0139 PORSCHE 17-Sensor aged behind can conv. cylinder (1-3) So ... oh great and wonderous knowers of all things Porsche ... give me some input and cures for these, Please! DIY's or Shop ... Thanks in advance ...

Hot water to soften???

In some cases the warranty you purchase may require you to have a shop preform the oil changes and submit it to the company. I have extended warranties on our Cayennes. My warranties require an oil change every 10km or 6 months whichever comes first. I must retain the receipts form the shop I use and submit them online to their data base in order to maintain the warranty. The company want to protect and make sure, me the customer, is preforming the required maintenance. In my case, the warranty cost and oil changes fees have been out weighed by the couple of repairs the warranty company paid out for a cardian shaft, water pump, & fuel pump on Cayenne and the wheel bearings on the other. In most cases you have to buy the extended warranty at the time of purchase to receive a discounted rate. Not a bad idea to purchase overlapping warranties if there is a short term left on the factory warranty.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-NEW-265-35-18-MICHELIN-PILOT-SPORT-A-S-3-35R-R18-TIRES-CERTIFICATES-/360857438844?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Tires&hash=item5404c78a7c&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-265-35-18-MICHELIN-PILOT-SUPER-SPORT-35R-R18-TIRES-/310812846002?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Tires&hash=item485de3a7b2&vxp=mtr

I live in Calgary, Alberta and the temp is well below freezing a majority of the winter. I wash our cars once a week when the car washes are open. (they close win the temp is down to -18c) I am fortunate to have two car washes within 3 km of my house. I washes them and park them in the garage until they dry. The touchless car washes I use have dries at the and and blow most of the water off. I have no issues with doors or handles with this method.

The adaptatioin is in the level control area. You can download here..... .http://www.chrisstutzcustomphoto.com/Durametric-Cayenne-Lowering_Tutorial_V2(1).pdf

This past week has been an interesting week in the Cayenne household .... First: I just got my Durametrix ... played around with it and fixed the vibration in MY2004 CAYENNE. I found it interesting that after rebalancing tires several times, a couple alignments and a set of new tires, that a recalibration of the air suspension fixed the vibration issues I was having and they have gone away. Second: What a PIA it was replacing the battery in MY2006 CAYENNE ... Not starting in the cold and replacing the battery with a aftermarket battery ... what an improvement in starting in cold temps ...

Why would one buy a car designed to grip and turn on a dime acquire it to drift? When mid engined and rear engined cars around there is a lot of torque generated .... harder to stay ahead ... The Physics of the vehicle is off for the application ....

I had the same issue on my wife's 2006. I had to order in a door opening kit with a Porsche specific slim jim, Wood not open from inside or outside. Go it open took door panels off and got the inside handle to work, but not the exterior handle .... It is like cracking a safe to get in there. You have to drill out the rivets and be patient to remove the inner workings. I wish I could tell you what I exactly did to get the inside handle to work but it is a mystery to me .... I played with the cable and it magically worked for the inside handle ... not so lucky for the outside. I have a friend at a body hop who will help me this spring with the exterior handle ....

Well ... I crawled under the nose of the car and found the previous owner had installed a H&R Sway Bar ... set up softest setting .... reset to stiffest setting .... Then went under the tail and found the new H&R sway bar was set to the softest setting .... switched that to neutral .... HUGE improvement in handling .... The front no longer feels like it is dancing ... The tail is coming around better in the corners .... Much more balanced drive!!!

Seems priced a bit low. They usually go somewhere north of 30,000 Canadian here in Calgary. These are sought after and price usually reflects that. Take it for an PPI at a good shop. The engine sounds fine just like our two. The insurance on the turbo is quite high. Dual sets of wheels is nice. If the inspection is good then you are getting smoking deal. MY2004 was 17,900 and MY2006 was 26,000 so .... yeah great deal. I looked at a 2004 Turbo that needed tires, brakes and coils and the dealer would not budge below 29,000. I hope it is all good for that price ... Nice!

Update on the MY2001 C4 driving experience. Here in the Western Plains of the Great White North, we have been gifted a January thaw. It was a glorious 14ºC today with sunny blue skies!!! I was able to get out and put on a quick 150 km on some twisty roads and get a better feel for this car. I must say I did a lot of grinning. It sure do have great grip and like to turn. The steering wheel does give you a whole bunch of feed back. It seems like you can feel ever bit of the road. The lightness I felt in the front end was not as prevalent this time around. It must have been the 70km cross winds the other evening when I first took it out that made it feel that light. It amazes me how the tail digs in in the turns. Great stuff .... Thanks for the inputs ....

I picked up MY2001 C4 over 10 days ago and have been giving it the garage treatment. (Changed Oil & Filter, Air Filter, Cabin Filter, Cleaned the throttle body, thoroughly detailed) Climbed in, under and around the car. Weather here in Calgary has finally broken a bit and the roads cleared enough to take it out for a few hours and see what it is all about. It is a bit of a different beast than MY2006 Boxster was. I have read that the 996 doesn't feel as fast or nimble as the Boxster. Maybe that is because they are a bit quieter on the inside than the Ragtop. Comes up to speed pretty darn quick and love feeling the tail dig in on starts. Lots of power all the way through RPMs. I wonder why they put a 6 speed gear box in when 4 is plenty for everyday commuting with all those other darn cars in the way on the road! Has great feel on the clover leafs. I like how the tailgating big boy trucks fall away in the turns. (See clover leaf comment) I have a few questions for the 911 guru's. I does seem to get quite light in the front end going 200kmph in a straight line but can really feel the rear down force. The steering wheel gets light and twitchy and the front feel like it is floating on air. It kind of took me by surprise because the Boxster did not do that. (Better to know now than later) The rear wing is stock. Looks like a new rear sway bar was installed curious as to which hole adjustment would balance out the front a bit. I did not notice much under steer in the few hours I was out. When at a light the idle is smooth, but I can feel the tail vibrating while idling. Felt kinda nice! Curious as to if this is normal for the 996? The new sway bar is nice, I think. Curious as to why you would just replace the sway bar. The rest of the bushings look untouched. Looking at the suspension coils, I noticed they are red and adjustable. I am assuming they are after market. The previous owner must have installed an after market exhaust (chrome is not standard issue and sounds good) Someone was also nice enough to put BBS LMs on the corners. (18x245 on the front with spacers & 18x285 on the rear with spaces) Next on the list is coils and plugs and brake fluid. The brake and rotors are pretty new so they are good to go. Not having any history on the vehicle i like to start fresh all the way around. This car is like peeling an onion. Having fun doing it. When does spring get here???

Thanks again. I found the C switch for the standard mirror. It only dims he over head orientation light. My question is now will the orientation lights voltage draw drain the battery or is the draw the same as the anti theft system?

Thanks Loren, I do not have the fancy rear view mirror. :king:

Thank you for the replies. So, the trunk/engine compartment lights will go off in a couple hours on their own. The orientation lights stay on as long as the vehicle is open? You must lock car to turn the orientation lights off? I pressed the little button on the overhead light "D" on my page 95 (MY MANUAL - WKD 996 02101) I usually don't lock my garage cars.

Okay folks I just picked up MY2001 C4. I have a mystery light and the lower trunk/hood release lights stay on after leaving the vehicle. The courtesy lighting all fades to black afet 30 seconds but these remain on after that until I lock the doors and then they go out. My question is is there a way to program them off? Or is there something I am missing??? Thanks in advance!!!

Try this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-911-996-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-GLASS-WINDOW-BLACK-HAARTZ-CLOTH-1999-2001-/271302988872 Cheer

Well ... after some time to think and deal to work ... I traded the Boxster in on the C4 ... Pick it up in January!!

I am curious. I have a 2006 Base Boxster with no issues and love to drive with just under 80,000 km on it. I am looking at 2001 C4 with 110,000 km. So the question is .... wait for it .... Other than ego is there a great difference in the driver satisfaction between the two??? Value of the boxster trade in is over the value of the "seasonal blowout pricing" of the C4 .... My wife is curious as well and she usually squashes my "just looking" endeavours.

I am not worthy to look upon the cathedral you have erected!