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stutzchris

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Everything posted by stutzchris

  1. Yes I has the same sound. I was fearful it was piston slap from everything I read. It was about 1100.00 to fix at and independent shop. The Pump, coolant and labor. Take it to a Porsche specific shop and find out.
  2. **** you ... I have similar BBS's ... Why did you plant this seed you are an evil person!!! :thumbup:
  3. It could be an incorrect listing or someone could have removed the front differential. Ask the poster of the add which it is.
  4. I run 245/35/18 on the front and 285/30/18 on the rear. MY2001 has HR coil overs and is dropped down pretty well. No rubbing issues.
  5. I had a similar situation with MY 2001 996. No sound when start off when cold. Then a groan/creak when turning wheels hard right or left when warm. Usually at slow speed in parking lot or around corners in town. My Issue ended up being a bad upper shock mount on the drivers side. Bushing was completely shot. I replace both and issue was fixed.
  6. The weather was nice gorgeous here Saturday. It was 14º, which lead me to garage door up and getting to some maintenance work on MY2001 C4. Over the past few months I acquired parts to install: front lower control arms and links, front tie rod ends and Top Speed rear adjustable toe links. I jacked the C4 up and had at it. The bushings on the front components were pretty shot. I was experiencing a low speed rattle up front over road bumps, manhole cover and seams. Not noticeable at speed but very annoying in town. I had a rear adjustable toe bar with a slight bend (thank you very much unmarked Texas gate). The alignment shop wouldn't touch it because of the bend so I needed to replace it. Pretty easy DIY. Just a little time consuming since I was taking my time enjoying the day. In hindsight I should have done the whole front when I changed the front camber/shock mounts to get rid of the steering groan I was getting up front. (one bushing mount bushing was completely blown). The ball joints pretty much fell out with a light hammer tap on all four corners and the other bushings were pretty soft on the on the old parts after inspection. Fortunately the shop that did the alignment was a 15 minute drive away because the car felt like a dog chasing it's tail on the way to get an alignment. Got an alignment done and the rattle is gone. Front end feels much tighter. Next up ... LN spin on oil filter and oil change. It never ends! Cue ... wife rolling eyes and shaking head!
  7. Update: I had the transmission flush completed. The issues were still there when I picked up the vehicle. I was a little deflated but half expected that but hoped for a miracle. Once home I hooked up my Durametric and reset the transmission adaptation. Also I notice the transmission code/setting 12328 was set to Asia. The prompt said " xx0xx Asia=2; RoW/USA= 0". So I changed that to Row/USA 12028, Went for a drive .... shifting was much better. It held revs higher and shifted smoother. I did normal driving for a few days and repeated the process. Over the past week there is a noticeable improvement in the shifting. The shifting is much much smoother. The occasional clunk mostly in town when letting off the gas and a low rev up shift happens(previously all the time). There is the occasional slip from 4-5 on uphill or under load (still much better than before). I am curious if it will continue to improve or deteriorate again. Time will tell. On the plus side. I was given 2014 Cayenne to drive as a loaner. I also asked if I supplied a reman'd valve body to the dealership would they install and the service manager said yes he didn't see why not. Saving my pennies for a valve body just in case. Always building my Porsche Service Retirement Account! Like one guy told me ... "Anyone can buy a Porsche; Maintaining it is the hard part". Cheers!
  8. I went and bought a cheap used PC Laptop for just the Durametric. The software is great for my needs. I picked it up for under $200 ... You don't need the latest greatest laptop for the Durametric. It sits in the garage and is not allowed in the house! I have 5 apple computers and I dislike windows based computers .... but it is the nature of the beast it is a PC world.
  9. Here is an update: After mulling over the Flush or valve body change, my wife and i decided the valve body change would be more expensive and less of a gamble. Then almost immediately the phone rang and it was The Porsche service department. The service manager stated the price of the valve bodies had gone up and instead of $2500 the valve body replacement would be $3600. I chuckled and said you just made my decision easier .... Flush it is .... If this does not fix the issue I will do the valve body myself since the fluid will be new and what does not come out will be new. I can do the rest for around $1300 or $1400. I think it is best to have them do the flush and check for water and such and if there are any updates for my TCU. Will post updates.
  10. Thanks again for the advice JFP. I am grateful for your free sharing of knowledge on this forum. I will keep will update after I get the work done.
  11. I just spoke to the Service manager again. I stated I just wanted to go ahead with the flush and fluid change. He stated that his shop foreman does not recommend it that 9 times out of 10 it is a vale body issue even though it is not throwing codes. They are going to do the diagnostic but feel it won't show anything since I am not getting codes and they will drive it to see what it is doing. He stated that when they do the flush it can create more problems than before it is flushed. In theory I get what he is saying. If we flush the service the transmission and it does not rectify the issue I just flushed that money down the drain, pun intended. He also stated even though I do not show any leaks on the garage floor, there could be leaks migrating in other direction like the wiring harness. I guess we will see ... I will lean toward heavily toward your advice JFP. I have had transmissions serviced before an they always say the fluid change is a bad idea. I don't get why. He could not answer if there are any TSBs. Thanks
  12. Thanks JFP .... I am not getting any codes. I have scanned with Durametric. The service manager found that interesting. So, if I read you right I should request a "complete fluid change? And ignore the "don't change the fluids." Would it be suggested to upgrade the TCU at that time as well? Thanks
  13. Good Morning Folks. I need some advice on MY2004 CS two years and 45,000 km ago. Since I purchased the vehicle the transmission shifting has been a bit off. I liken it to the shifting on my Durango I traded in on the Cayenne, not that smooth but adequate which surprised me that the CS was not better. I had what I would say, less than smooth shift between 2-3 and 4-5. They were not horrible and I accepted that was the way it was. It was not until we purchase a 2006 CS that I learned the shifting should be smooth and seamless. Recently, the past 4 months the transmission in MY2004 has been very interesting. At times the shifting is smooth, other times there are the issues I described above, other times there are slips where the 2-3 & 4-5 revs plus 800 RPMs before it shifts and these are all while driving sensibly in the city or on the highway without being aggressive shifting at 3000-3500 RPM. When being aggressive with the throttle, which I try not to do now, There is a massive clunk when down shifting and or up shifting with the shift points around 5000 RPM. The clunk is so massive that it feels like the transmission has been knocked out of the bottom. There is no consistency to the issues. The described can all happen on the same drive or none at all or alternate or repeat. I have spent hours researching the many post on these issues and tried to decipher the what seems to be thousands forum mechanics opinions on the issues causes. (ie: Fluid Issues, TCU/TCM, Valve Body, Stepper Motor, Tranny Mounts and the list goes on) That said, I called the local dealership to book and appointment to have the Fluid changes since I am unsure if it has ever been done. MY2004 has 175,000ish kms on it I thought it might be place to start. I do most of most of the maintenance, crawling under and doing an oil change is one thing, but the messiness of this one has me a,little less than enthused to do. I called the Calgary Porsche Dealership and explained I wished to have the transmission fluids and filter changed. The service manager was shocked I wanted a transmission flush and filter change. He said that he doesn't recommend it since that the fluids should last 16 years. The price was around $1000, 600 for parts and fluids and rest in shop time. I was a little surprised at the fee, but this is Calgary and no auto repair is cheap here and I just want it done right. Is this good advice with that interval? Independent shops are an option, but take weeks to get booked in and they are "ce la vie" if you need it quick The dealership has been good to me with issues and service and booking. The service manager has recommended I bring it in and they do a diagnosis and update the TCU/TCM. I then drive it for a while and see if it is resolved. He explained that hes doesn't want me to spend money unnecessary fixes. I realize that is the valve body is going to be replaced that the flush and fluids will be incorporated into the repair. He quoted around $2500 for the Valve body replacement cost. The Cayenne is paid for so This type of repair cost is warranted since I only have normal vehicle running cost on it. I guess I am asking if this seems to be a reasonable plan of action? Thanks in advance!
  14. I think the original question was, "What is the easiest & cheapest way to add horsepower and performance to this car?". I was fortunate to get a deal on my 2001 996 C4. I was also fortunate to buy it with the suspension upgraded to H&R Coil overs and the engine mounts upgrade to Wevo Semi Solid engine mounts. The mufflers are upgrades as well, but I do not know what they are since I can find no branding on them. The mufflers are chrome. I am not aware of Porsche putting chrome mufflers in the 996. An air filter alone, again to my limited knowledge, cannot increase HP substantially. Expanding exhaust capabilities can, but for a FabSpeed they are not cheap and increase HP by 8 whp and cost $1500 si. FabSpeed headers increase 15 whp. and a complete FabSpeed performance system with ECU chipping is 7 Grand and increase 26 HP. The torque raises proportionally. I am not thinking this is "cheap" And this is if you do installation yourself to save labor cost. Can anyone tell me if quantifiably 30 HP really makes a difference on a 3000 lb vehicle. A 996 Turbo has 420 HP vs the NA 3.4 which has 296 HP. the Turbos go for 12000 to 15000 more than the NA. Quick math the Turbo is $100/1 HP vs $233/1 HP on the FabSpeed Performance package. I am sure if you shop around you can find cheaper components to upgrade the 996. I like some others sit and ponder, while having coffee at the computer, about upgrading my 996. I also have a budget to live with. I do my own repairs where i am capable and fluids changes as well. I welcome the advice of those who have greater technical knowledge than I do in this forum. If money were no object I would be in a turbo but the reality is I could buy the 996 for cash and have the ability to maintain it well. I lean in and start to believe the marketing and hype of upgrade gains. I come here to bring me back to reality. I again like the advice of take DE classes and learn to really drive the care. Learn to drive it in a safe location where I can get the true feel for what the car can.
  15. Thank you for the comments. I enjoy my 996 C4 now. It is plenty fast for me 0-100 km/hr by the end of second gear when driving with spirit. It handles great and is a joy to drive. I do not at this time anticipate tracking the car other than DE sessions. The reality for me is driving like I am racing (when the rest of the drivers on the road are unaware a race is going on) gets a little nuts.( I don't do it) I have had the pleasure of taking my C4 to a high speed and the world changes (in a safe environment) ... things happen quicker and objects come up on you pretty darn fast. I am not sure without training I could ever drive the 996 safely to its limits at this point. I am a pretty good driver I some racing background on bikes so I know lines and apexes but I understand my limitations as well. I think I will take JFP's advice and spend some money on DE and enjoy a weekend or two learning what I don't know when driving. Focus $$$ on preemptive maintenance and car of my car. Thanks for this discussion.
  16. I get the $$/HP ratio is not good on upgrading the 996 NA. I would like to know if the Softronic tune is worth the investment. Are there real gains the tune. I am very satisfied with my Durametric and they are partnered with Softronic. Are there real gains the tune.
  17. I am a Mac guy from way back. I can not bring myself to put a quasi windows platform on my MacBook. I went out and purchase a cheap refurd'd PC laptop to keep in the garage to run Durametric. I also went to a local computer supply store and bought a 30 for USB booster cable for around $20 to extend the Durametric dongle so the laptop can sit on the work bench.
  18. I replaced both front shock mounts and greased the bearings several weeks ago in My 2001 C4. My creaking was due to the bushings in the shock mounts/camber plate being shot. I disconnected the font drive shafts from the front differential joint. You need to remove the front tray to see where they connect. There are six allen headed bolts to hold drive shaft on. Any air ratchet made this easier. Also, disconnecting the drop links form the sway bar helps everything drop clear and the strut swings out easily.
  19. My 02 had the same thing. I had to take to the shop. They checked for water damage and determined the PSM controller failed. Basically the car is in limp mode.
  20. I DIY'd my mounts. It isn't hard if about and hour and a half per side. I did the one side by myself and had a second set of hands for the other. Coil clamps a must and air ratchet helps out ... As for the realignment ... I think yes since you need to loosen the control arm and the new mounts are firmer than the old mounts ... Mine is getting new front tires and an alignment tomorrow The toe should be the same since you don't need to loosen toe bars ... the camber may change if you do not place back the mounts exactly where they are. For me my toe is out and I need new tires so I need an alignment.
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