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jw_928

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About jw_928

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Waterbury Center, VT
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '84 928S
    '86.5 928S
    '88 951
  • Future cars
    '04 955 T

Recent Profile Visitors

630 profile views
  1. Are you kidding me? The coil is the "ignition rod module"? SOB! ;-) I thought it was some special tool. Oh well, that will be even easier then.
  2. It looks like I can use a compression tester to determine if I'm on the ignition TDC and from there one more crankshaft rotation.
  3. I need to replace the chain tensioner and the engine needs to be at overlapping TDC. The manual shows how to do this with a special tool, but I don't have that. My question is, how can I tell which TDC I'm on, the ignition or overlapping? Is this an interference engine or would the valves be open on the overlapping TDC? If so, I could try some air pressure to see if the valves are open?
  4. Well, the leaking stopped when I tightened it, but I'm concerned it might come out again. Thanks for the heads-up on the replacement. Apparently, I need to be at TDC before replacing the tensioner. I was going to just unscrew the old one.
  5. After reading a bunch of workshop manuals, I finally found the "plug" in a diagram. It looks like it is the timing chain tensioner, 94810518002. So now the question is, do I need a new tensioner or just a new washer? Is there any way to test it? How can I ensure this doesn't happen again? I'm not sure loctite is a good plan...
  6. I returned home from a short trip to the store only to see smoke coming from under the hood. I immediately shut the car off and jump out to see if I'm on fire or not and see a substantial amount of oil everywhere on the passenger side of the car, near the turbo. I was hoping it was just the O-ring for the intercooler pipes but this was way too much oil. After removing the air filter box and wiping down everything, I couldn't see any obvious leaks so I refilled the oil (7 quarts!), started the engine, and ran around to the other side of the car to see if I could fine the "leak". It becam
  7. I fixed the two broken wires, redid one of the corroded connections and suddenly I have my brake lights, reverse lights, and tail lights back!
  8. I was hearing sloshing sounds which turned out to be plugged rocker panel drains holding a bunch of water. Checking under the carpet in the passenger footwell I found a bit more water and the foam under the carpet was soaked. Coincidentally, I also started getting an intermittent "Check License plate light" message which then progressed to a "Check Reverse Lights" message. In checking my lights, it turns out I have no brake lights either. Figuring the moisture in the footwell might have something to do with the light issue, i pulled back the wet carpet to find a damp wiring harness. The wire
  9. It turns out that once the system is evacuated there really isn't much pressure holding the plug in place other than the spring in the dryer. I didn't realize this until the circlip spun in place when I was trying to get the pliers on it. I ended up breaking off the tips of three different snap-ring pliers but finally got the clip started on one end and then it popped out with a tug. I got the plug out without the slide hammer by screwing a bolt into the center of the plug (where the cover came out) and using vice grips on the bolt. I noticed I was able to move the plug a little bit and
  10. The pulley on my AC compressor self-destructed and while I am replacing the compressor, I will also be attempting to replace the dryer (desiccator) and the expansion valve. The expansion valve doesn't look too bad once I can get my wiper off but I'm not really sure what the manual is saying for the removal of the dryer. I have removed the rubber grommet on the condensor and the manual says that I should use a slide hammer to push the plug down and turn the Seeger ring to gain access. My question is, how hard do I have to push down and do I really need a slide hammer to push down? Also, do I
  11. I have done this twice now on an '04 CTT. I did not want to mess the MAF and air filter connections so instead, I followed the two lines that go inside the belt and disconnected them up by the Y-pipe. When you remove the old belt you can kind of see the lines I'm talking about. I was able to undo a few clamps in the front of the engine and just had to thread those lines inside that loop of the belt. I don't know if that makes any sense, but there is a way to do the belt on a turbo without removing the air filter.
  12. I think the higher octane is mostly to help under boost to help with eliminating detonation. As long as you don't drive hard when you're running the 91 you should be fine.
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