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Everything posted by jw_928

  1. Are you kidding me? The coil is the "ignition rod module"? SOB! ;-) I thought it was some special tool. Oh well, that will be even easier then.
  2. It looks like I can use a compression tester to determine if I'm on the ignition TDC and from there one more crankshaft rotation.
  3. I need to replace the chain tensioner and the engine needs to be at overlapping TDC. The manual shows how to do this with a special tool, but I don't have that. My question is, how can I tell which TDC I'm on, the ignition or overlapping? Is this an interference engine or would the valves be open on the overlapping TDC? If so, I could try some air pressure to see if the valves are open?
  4. Well, the leaking stopped when I tightened it, but I'm concerned it might come out again. Thanks for the heads-up on the replacement. Apparently, I need to be at TDC before replacing the tensioner. I was going to just unscrew the old one.
  5. After reading a bunch of workshop manuals, I finally found the "plug" in a diagram. It looks like it is the timing chain tensioner, 94810518002. So now the question is, do I need a new tensioner or just a new washer? Is there any way to test it? How can I ensure this doesn't happen again? I'm not sure loctite is a good plan...
  6. I returned home from a short trip to the store only to see smoke coming from under the hood. I immediately shut the car off and jump out to see if I'm on fire or not and see a substantial amount of oil everywhere on the passenger side of the car, near the turbo. I was hoping it was just the O-ring for the intercooler pipes but this was way too much oil. After removing the air filter box and wiping down everything, I couldn't see any obvious leaks so I refilled the oil (7 quarts!), started the engine, and ran around to the other side of the car to see if I could fine the "leak". It became rather obvious as oil was pouring out. So now, I found the leak but I don't know what the fix is. There is a large (30 mm) "plug"? on the engine block, directly above the alternator as you look at the engine through the wheel well. The "plug" was VERY loose and oil was pouring out. I tightened the plug and that seems to have fixed the leak. My questions are, what is this "plug", why did it come loose, and what should I do to fix this? Thanks.
  7. I fixed the two broken wires, redid one of the corroded connections and suddenly I have my brake lights, reverse lights, and tail lights back!
  8. I was hearing sloshing sounds which turned out to be plugged rocker panel drains holding a bunch of water. Checking under the carpet in the passenger footwell I found a bit more water and the foam under the carpet was soaked. Coincidentally, I also started getting an intermittent "Check License plate light" message which then progressed to a "Check Reverse Lights" message. In checking my lights, it turns out I have no brake lights either. Figuring the moisture in the footwell might have something to do with the light issue, i pulled back the wet carpet to find a damp wiring harness. The wires inside the plastic conduit are fine but the taped section running up the firewall was damp so I unwrapped the tape holding all of the wires together and found two obviously broken wires, and also three sets of wires taped together at the end and a bunch of corrosion. The problem I have is that I can't tell if these wires were connected to anything else or just to each other. There are three sets, 2 small red w/yellow stripe 3 green w/red stripes 3 larger red w/yellow stripes. Any chance somebody can help?
  9. It turns out that once the system is evacuated there really isn't much pressure holding the plug in place other than the spring in the dryer. I didn't realize this until the circlip spun in place when I was trying to get the pliers on it. I ended up breaking off the tips of three different snap-ring pliers but finally got the clip started on one end and then it popped out with a tug. I got the plug out without the slide hammer by screwing a bolt into the center of the plug (where the cover came out) and using vice grips on the bolt. I noticed I was able to move the plug a little bit and after some wiggling it popped right out. It was basically held in place by the two rubber o-rings.
  10. The pulley on my AC compressor self-destructed and while I am replacing the compressor, I will also be attempting to replace the dryer (desiccator) and the expansion valve. The expansion valve doesn't look too bad once I can get my wiper off but I'm not really sure what the manual is saying for the removal of the dryer. I have removed the rubber grommet on the condensor and the manual says that I should use a slide hammer to push the plug down and turn the Seeger ring to gain access. My question is, how hard do I have to push down and do I really need a slide hammer to push down? Also, do I need to be pushing down when removing the Seeger ring?
  11. I have done this twice now on an '04 CTT. I did not want to mess the MAF and air filter connections so instead, I followed the two lines that go inside the belt and disconnected them up by the Y-pipe. When you remove the old belt you can kind of see the lines I'm talking about. I was able to undo a few clamps in the front of the engine and just had to thread those lines inside that loop of the belt. I don't know if that makes any sense, but there is a way to do the belt on a turbo without removing the air filter.
  12. I think the higher octane is mostly to help under boost to help with eliminating detonation. As long as you don't drive hard when you're running the 91 you should be fine.
  13. My secomd battery was under the box in the back. I had to remove the box to see the battery.
  14. I have an '04 CTT with the external spare tire carrier. I am getting the warning that the carrier is open. This warning is constant and overrides everything else on the dashboard display, pretty much making the car undriveable. In researching the issue it seems that I can "turn off" the warning by unplugging a connector going to the lower hinge, simply by "removing some trim". My problem is that I'm not sure what trim, and I'm also not sure what "lower hinge" means. Does anybody know if I need to find the connector at the hinge, near the tailights or is it the receiver where the carrier latches into? Also, does anybody know exactly what "trim" I need to remove? It looks like my manual has the wrong diagrams for removing rear apron. Thanks.
  15. So I kind of took RacerX5's advice and pressure tested the system, but since i don't have any tools on Sunday, I just ran the engine up to temp. I'm not sure, but it looks like I might have been a bit paranoid about my water pump change and the steam MIGHT have been spilled coolant. I'm going to drive the car to work tomorrow and that should be a good test.
  16. The temp in my '04 CTT has been climbing from normal when sitting. I couldn't find any leaks, but there was a bit of steam coming from the front of the engine. I couldn't see any leaks so at first, but then I finally found a dribble of coolant in the front of the engine, so I changed the water pump. After I replaced the pump, I brought the car up to temp and I still have steam coming out somewhere. Without a mirror, I couldn't really see much. It looks like it might be coming from the center of the radiator. The water pump is dry. It doesn't look like there's anything that carries water near there except for the radiator and the water pump. The steam is thickest around the middle of the radiator. I guess I need to get a telescoping mirror to see, but is there anything else it could be besides the radiator? Also, do I have to take the whole front end off to get to the radiator?
  17. I found a bit of coolant dripping from the water pump so I finally replaced it but I still have steam coming from the front of the engine or radiator, so no, it didn't completely fix my problem, although I don't think the needle went as high as it did before.
  18. I believe that the temperature should remain fairly stable. I have an '04 CTT with somewhat similar symptoms. In stop and go traffic, the needle starts to rise until the fans kick in. On my car, I think its the water pump. There is a way to see if the water pump shaft is loose. This video shows them prying the pulley and you can see the belt moving.
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