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KevinH90

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Everything posted by KevinH90

  1. KevinH90
    If Harvey said he put in the best speaker available for this application, I think you can trust him and save your money. I'm in the process of adding a 6-channel amp to my car. Even though I bought my PNP kit over a year and a half ago, Harvey sent me the add on cable and instructions at no extra charge. Too bad he doesn't actually make the Becker radios or the cars themselves for that matter. I contacted Becker about the peeling buttons and sticky knobs on my CDR-220, and I'll be funding the repair of what is obviously a defective product.
  2. KevinH90
    I changed the plugs less than 15,000 miles ago. The recommended change interval for the 00 is 30k, although my friends 02 calls for 60k between changes. I suspect it is something in the evaporative system, but I don't want to just start changing parts without a firm diagnosis. The shop is counseling me to keep an eye on it, and that is probably the best advice. I guess I'm just impatient by nature.
  3. KevinH90
    Here's the situation: If I refuel the car after completing most of my drive to work (about 30 miles) it is difficult to restart the car. I might have to crank it 4 or 5 times before it will run. If I refuel the car while it is still cold I can usually get it to fire right up. I have no other problems with the car starting whether it is hot or cold. I had the same problem last year, but after I had the MAF and the air vent hose replaced, the problem went away. Both the MAF and the vent hose were causing CEL's. The vent hose problem was making it difficult to fill the tank more than 3/4's full. The current problem is not causing a CEL or preventing me from filling the tank. Yesterday I took the car to the shop that replaced the MAF and the vent hose. They checked the car and here are their comments "Check for DME codes, none found. Fuel trim numbers, as well as tank vent, etc. are all spot on as far as parmenters within DME actual values, as well as status of OBD function." This is a good shop, so I'm sure they would have found a code if there was one. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there anything I can be looking for to tell the shop about? I don't "top off" the tank after the gas pump cuts off, but I'm trying to think if it's something I'm doing (such as refueling with the car on a slope or sticking the nozzle too far down the filler tube) that is causing the problem.
  4. KevinH90
    This is timely. I just broke one of mine while I was installing my hard top.
  5. KevinH90
    Oxygensensors.com sent me a 250-24647. I put it on today and it fit. I disconnected the battery to clear the CEL and took the car to Autozone for a reading. I don't have a P1117 code anymore, so things are looking good now. I hope that others can avoid the confusion I encountered. I wonder if Walker will update their catalog.
  6. KevinH90
    Thanks guys. I'm glad I stopped to think before I went too far.
  7. KevinH90
    I need to replace my right side post catalytic converter O2 sensor due to a P1117 code. I ordered a Walker O2 sensor from OxygenSensors.com. The connector for the Walker sensor is not identical to the one on the Porsche sensor that I will be removing. I've attached pictures. Since they won't accept the return of an O2 sensor after it has been installed, I don't want to proceed unless I'm absolutely sure that I have the correct sensor. Naturally, they are closed on Saturday. Has anyone installed a Walker sensor on their Boxster? It looks like the Walker connector will fit around the connector on the car while the Porsche sensor fits inside. The Walker part number on the box is 250-24423 which according to the company's web site is the correct part for this application.
  8. KevinH90
    I'm considering the purchase of a used PCM-1 removed from a 1999 Carrera. I've searched and read just about every post on here and I'm still a bit uncertain. Will someone review the information gathered from my research and let me know if I am on the right track with my thinking and answer my remaining questions? 1. The PCM is an 8-bit unit (confirmed by the seller), so new maps aren't available. 2. The PCM from a 99 Carrera will work in my 2000 Boxster. (Both cars are non-MOST.) 3. The PCM may or may not be "plug and play" depending on the relative configuration of the cars involved. I have the on-board computer if that helps. 4. I will need to buy a new navigation antenna. Are these available? What do they cost? 5. I will need to buy a CD-changer cable. Are these available? What do they cost? 6. Will the PCM have to be activated by the dealer after I install it. 7. I will have to relocate my climate control unit, but this is a straightforward job and the parts needed are relatively inexpensive. I have the Becker CD-220 with the "peeling button/sticky knob" problem and was thinking that the used PCM might be a nice upgrade. I figure it will cost about $125 to service the Becker and I could use that money to defray some of the cost of the PCM. However, it is beginning to look like the installation of the PCM could be tricky and involve some hidden costs. Also, most folks seem to favor an aftermarket unit. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  9. KevinH90
    The CEL is on and the reader at AutoZone shows the codes as P1117 and P0440. According to search results, P1117 is the O2 sensor after the cat on the passenger/right side of the car. I've ordered the sensor and should be able to replace it Friday or Saturday. I haven't been able to obtain too much info on P0440 except that it involves the evaporative system. After I replace the O2 sensor, I'm planning to have AutoZone clear the codes. If the CEL comes back on after that the car is visiting the Porsche specialist. Has anyone had a similar combination of codes or have any wisdom to offer? Thanks
  10. KevinH90
    I didn't have time to crawl under the Boxster yesterday and check out the O2 sensors. It's raining pretty heavily in Virginia today, so I thought I would take some time to think this through and obtain some feedback. Based on what I've read on this and other forums, here in very simple terms is my understanding of the problem and proposed corrective action: 1. There are four O2 sensors on the car. 2. Only one of mine is bad 3. The one that is bad is after the catalytic convertor on the driver's side of my U.S. spec car. 4. I only need to replace the bad sensor. 5. I can order a sensor from OxygenSensors.com (http://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog.php?&engine=H6-2.7L) and it will be plug and play. I could also use a generic Bosch sensor and save some money, but I would need to splice some wires. 6. It might be worth it to buy a special socket for the O2 sensor so that I can torque it properly. My questions: 1. Do I have this right? 2. Any recommendations or suggestions? Thanks.
  11. KevinH90
    I drove it to work this morning and the CEL stayed off. The car seems to be running fine. I have the On-Board Computer and the reading for fuel consumption is within the usual range. I'll keep driving it over the weekend. If the CEL stays off, I'll postpone my appointment at Luftechnic for a couple of weeks. I'm accustomed to doing a lot of my own work on my cars, and I'm slowly starting to feel comfortable working on the Boxster. (I've changed the oil, installed rear speakers, an air filter, replaced the hinge on the oddments tray lid, etc.) I'll see if I can find a DIY on the O2 sensor. If it doesn't look too demanding I may give it a try. Thanks for the reply.
  12. KevinH90
    When driving home on Tuesday my check engine light came on. I made one stop on the way home and then I didn't drive the car (2000 non-S, 5 speed, 39,500 miles) again until tonight. I drove it to AutoZone and the they pulled the P1117 code - P1117 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit. When I left AutoZone, the CEL was off. I don't know whether the person who helped me reset the code or it went off on its own. Here are my questions: 1. Is it OK to drive the car? I have a 30-mile commute to work. I expect the CEL to return, but it will be difficult to bring the car to a technician for the next few weeks due to job demands. 2. I replaced the MAF sensor last year. Should I bite the bullet and replace all four O2 sensors or just replace them as they go? 3. Is this an easy DIY job or should I leave it to a technician? Thanks or your help.
  13. KevinH90
    Here's a nice write up on rear speaker installation: http://www.pelicanparts.com//techarticles/...ar_speakers.htm There are some minor differences between these instructions and those for the PNP kit. I've installed two Harvey kits. The first took about 5 hours, the second took about 2 hours. I highly recommend using a piece of stiff wire to fish the cable through the door sill.
  14. KevinH90
    I beg to differ. I have removed and replaced the lower console to replace the dodgy platic hinge on the rear glove box with the metal retrofit kit using the B& M instructions above and in my view there's no need to remove the upper console as suggested above to do this. I installed the metal retrofit kit last weekend. I didn't remove my console. There is just enough room between the back of the console and engine bulkhead to saw off the broken plastic part and insert the new pieces. If you keep a vacumn handy you can keep the cabin tidy while you work.
  15. KevinH90
    Well, I found the source of my noise. I had installed aluminum trim rings on my gauges. The one around the tachometer is loose and was rattles when I drive over coarse pavement. I guess the glue bond broke because the aluminum expanded and contracted with temperature fluctuations at a different rate than the plastic to which it was attached. At least it will be an inexpensive fix when the weather is warm enough to use glue again.
  16. KevinH90
    I'll let you know. It's odd that the noise started after I let the car sit for a week. (I usually drive the car at least five days a week, but we've had some icy conditions and I drove my other car to avoid mixing summer tires and ice.) I didn't drive the car for two weeks last summer when I was on vacation (or as you would say "on holiday"), but of course the temperatures weren't below freezing. We had a little ice again this morning, but I should be able to drive the Boxster tomorrow. I have a faint hope that the noise will go away.
  17. KevinH90
    I hadn't driven by 2000 Base Boxster for about a week due to weather. When I drove it today, it made a rattling sound that seemed to come from the steering wheel. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? Thanks
  18. KevinH90
    I had similar symptoms with my 2000 a few months ago. (Minus the ball of fire.) Definitely do not drive the car. If you are having the same problem I had, it is a failed Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. The failure caused my engine to run too rich and it was sending unburned fuel to the catalytic converter. The temperature gauge didn't rise because it wasn't causing the engine to overheat; the back of the car was getting very hot because the converter was overheating. The MAF is about $250 U.S. and it will probably be about two hours of labor to diagnose and correct the problem. There may have been some damage to the air intake as a result of the backfire. All together, it should be less than $500 U.S. at a good independent Porsche shop. The dealer may be a bit more. Of course you may have a totally different problem, but it sounds eerily similar to mine. Good luck.
  19. KevinH90
    1. I disconnected my battery because I'm always concerned about electrical shorts when I'm around wiring. Also, the instructions I used called for fishing the speaker wire through thea area beneath the passenger door and warned about possible interaction with the side air bag wiring. 2. If you disconnect the battery, you will need the radio code. You are going to need it eventually (e.g. dead batery) so you might as well get it. I think the dealer can provide it to you. I think Chris' theory about tapping into the door speaker wiring is worth checking into. You either have much higher standards for car audio than I do, or something is wrong.
  20. KevinH90
    Wupe, I saw your posts on the Babblers Board. I've put in two sets of the PNP speakers - one in my 2000 and the other in my friend's 2002. Both of these cars had the CDR-220 radio/cd player. I'm not sure what headunit is in your 03. The PNP speakers add some "spaciousness" to the sound, but by themselves they won't sound that great. I'm happy with my PNP kit, but I wasn't expecting it to have a miraculous effect on the sound in my Boxster. If you have the stock 4-channel amp, the PNP speakers will be running off the head unit, so there won't be much power going to the rear speakers. That is how mine are operating and I find it to be an improvement over the stock sound. Maybe my expectations for improvement were lower than yours. That said, it is possible that the technician made a mistake installing your kit. At one point in the operation, the installer must insert the wires from the rear speakers into a connector that fits into the back of the radio. The numbers on that connector - they designate where each wire should go - are very hard to see. If he was in a hurry it is possible that he put the wires in the wrong space on the connector and as a result the speakers are not in phase with the other speakers in your car. You might ask him to double check the wiring. Good luck.
  21. KevinH90
    Check out this post on installing an iPod adapter: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5190 It shows how to tap into the power conncector for the phone. You may be able to adapt the Becker power cable to power your radar detector. It can be set up so that it is only "hot" when the car is on. Good luck.
  22. KevinH90
    I like the Basalt Black one, but Porsche Ron is right it will show every speck of dust. For some reason, a red Boxster doesn't do as much for me. I have an Arctic Silver car and it does not show the dirt like a darker color. The down side to Arctic Silver is that it must be the most common Boxster color. (On the plus side, it made it much easier to find a matching hardtop on the "previously owned" market.) Buy the color you like. Listen to your heart, not your head.
  23. KevinH90
    When I picked up my used hard top at the beginning of July, I had a very difficult time attaching it to the car. The seller and I tried three times before we fitted it correctly. (I have to admit I was becoming worried about it because I was 300 miles from home on a rainy night.) I left on vacation two days after returning from my hardtop retrieval mission, so the top stayed on the car for about three weeks before I removed it for the remainder of the summer. When I reinstalled the top two nights ago (the temperature here is dropping into the thirties at night) it fit on very easily. Part of the improvement may be attributable to expeience, but I think the top might also have adapted to the shape of my car during the time it spent attached in the warm summer weather. My recommendation is that if you can get the top on the car, wait to adjust it until it has had a chance to settle. I agree that a silver hard top on a black car would not be as attractive as an all black car. A black top on a silver car might work OK since it would be similar in appearance to a black soft top on the same car. Overall I think the matching hard top contributes to the feeling of having two cars and I think it would justify the cost of a repaint.
  24. KevinH90
    Well, the diagnosis was a "non-functioning evaporative control valve". They replaced the air vent line. I hope the car stays fixed. It's been an expensive month.
  25. KevinH90
    I know that the only way I'm going to find the real solution to my problem is to leave the car with Lufteknic for a day or two, but I thought I would update this thread. Saturday October 14 - Change oil and filter - Mobil 0W40 - Car drove fine Monday October 16 - Brought car to Lufteknic (nice shop and good people) for diagnosis. They did some quick checks, but they will need more time to make a thorough analysis and narrow down the possible cause. They reset the check engine light and I drove home without incident. Did not drive the Boxster Tuesday or Wednesday because I needed a car with more passenger room. Thursday October 19 - Drove approximately 25 miles at 65-70 mph top speed. Stopped to buy gas before arriving at work. Put in a very small amount (less than a quart) and the nozzle cut off and gas splashed back from the tank. This is the first time this has happened. Proceeded to fill the tank slowly, and put in a total of 9.1 gallons. I stopped filling as soon as the pump handled clicked off. The car was extremely difficult to restart. I tried about 8 times. Eventually the car restarted and it ran smoothly – no check engine light. Like I said, I know I need to leave the car for a thorough diagnosis, but I wonder if anyone has experienced these same symptoms and has any idea what could be causing them.
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