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BTERRY1

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    Encinitas
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 996 C2

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Community Answers

  1. first time in 7 years and i finally got a waring light on the dash. ABS failure. I was headed down my driveway, and at the bottom I have to go out at an angle and often times 1 wheel will come off the ground. at the same time i pulled the emergency brake as i did an oil change this am and wanted to have a quick look underneath before heading out. was it a combo of this that triggered it? i have a simple scanner but it shows no codes. what is the best approach to troubleshooting this. also, my car does not have PASM. not sure if that matters with diagnosis. thx in advance.
  2. Last night pulling in to the garage, I had a slight stumble followed by check engine light. P0491 and 2. Verified through scanner. Been reading lots of good troubleshooting posts. My question is can I drive it while working through trouble shooting if it’s not a quick obvious fix? verified this am that the SAI pump cycles as normal at start up
  3. morning update. I confess, i am an idiot. was working on the clutch as Lauren suspected. all is well. face palm........
  4. thanks Ahsai - the switch I was fiddling with this morning had 2 wires coming out the back of it. I thought one was black and one was yellow. When the car was running and I removed the switch the brake lights stayed on. Is this further evidence I was having a senior moment and working on the clutch switch instead?
  5. thanks Lauren i will take another look again when i get home. do they look basically identical? i was up side down and backwards to get in the spot and thought for sure i was in the right place, but you never know.... know that i think about it i am pretty sure cause i was able to start the car with the switch out when testing between the old and new.
  6. As the title states my brake lights are always on. Ordered a new brake light switch and swapped it out no dice. Lights still stuck on. Pulled fuse 7 row B and lights off. Took both switches old and new apart and cleaned, reassembled and still no luck. Can I jump the black and yellow wire in the female end of the connection to isolate it a bad new switch. What should I do next?
  7. Just checked and the bolt head Definately says 8.8 on it. Has 13mm head on it. I was nervous since it wasthe lower pulley. Will torque to 34. Thanks again.
  8. Thanks Lauren I was stressing that I over tightened it. So torque values are determined by bolt size and not location? Maybe a dumb question:)
  9. guys, sanity check here. I removed what i would call the lower pulley during my water pump replacement. Green arrow in link. question on torque spec. I will copy the sentences from Pelican below but my question is that it says lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lbs. The reason for my question is in the first sentance it says for bolts M10x145 (8.8) should be 34 ft-lbs. My lower pulley bolt is a M10x145 (8.8). So due to the location would it be less torque or is it 34 due to bolt size? thanks http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/17-ENGINE-Idler_Pullies/17-ENGINE-Idler_Pullies.htm quote - "simply install the bolts and tighten to 34 ft-lb (46 Nm) for the upper bolt if it's an M10x145 (8.8) bolt or 48 ft-lb (65 Nm) if it's an M10x145 (10.9). The lower pulley is tightened to 17 ft-lb (23 Nm)."
  10. I assume the switch is failing. When I initially depress the brake pedal or press lightly my brake lights work. As soon as I press harder the go out. On immediate firm braking I get an initial flash of brake lights the nothing. No abs light on dash. Anything else to look for?
  11. reviving this really old thread. would be interested to know what tranny fluid would quiet things down the best. I love my LWFW and don't mind the rattle, but in the summer months with the AC on the rattle is even louder with the slight change in RPMs. sounds like i am pulling up to a tractor pull.
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