RG Najarian

THANKS Loren!!

Hello Gang I am having a little trouble identifying the part number for the rubber that goes in the middle of the horizontal roof rack for my 2005 Cayenne (roof rack part number 955-044-000-72) The rubber is "H" shaped. I suspect the TSB for the roof rails has the part number but I cannot find the TSB. Attached is a photo of the roof rail with the rubber (Photo "Borrowed" from an Ebay listing) Any help would be appreciated

This photo was borrowed from another member, I had the same problem as he did. Loren identified the part as; 955 504 445 010 1 The car is a 2005 Cayenne V-6 Does that part include BOTH sides of the missing plastic cover? Thanks

Hi Gang I'm changing from my factory hardwired telephone hands free kit to a Parrot LS 3200. Using the telephone prep kit under the passenger seat I was able to easily install the Parrot. (all the wires are there) PROBLEM The mute is CONSTANTLY on. Whether or not the phone is paired or even in use. I suspect this is a MOST/AMP issue. Any thoughts how to resolve this? Is there another place to pick up the mute lead? Thanks

Hi All, Brief History, in 2005 My custom ordered Cayenne included the telephone prep kit. This was the hard wired handhold mounted unit. Looking to upgrade to Bluetooth, if I can work out ONE bug this install would be LESS THAN HALF AN HOUR (for those with phone prep option) I bought a Parrot LS3200. Using a wiring harness ($30) I was able to; Hook up the AUX in speaker wires to the Parrot Hook up Constant +12 V Hook up the Ground Hook up Switchable +12 V Hook up the Mute lead Hook up the Car Microphone RESULTS The unit powered up, the PCM recognized the Bluetooth unit and displayed "EXTERNAL PHONE ACTIVE" I made a call, the PCM muted the radio and the call went out over the car speakers. TWO PROBLEMS The car microphone did not seem to work with the Parrot, despite being the same size plug the caller's voice quality was mechanical and unintelligible. No problems using the Parrot supplied microphone. SOLUTION is to use the Parrot Microphone. The mute feature did not disengage after the call was ended. In fact, once the unit became active it muted the stereo. Any thoughts how to resolve this mute issue? Do I need to pull the head unit out and connect it there? The same mute lead works properly with the Hard Wired Porsche Telephone system. I'll post detailed photos and installation instructions when I work this out. Thanks

Keep us updated on how it went. A couple of questions; bWhat Year Cayenne? What Version PCM? Do you have the part number of the Updates? How Much? Where did you get it? Thanks!

That is good to know because I just bought a Parrot LS 3200 Color bluetooth, I'm hoping that I can either use this unit or the Parrot CK 3100 (currently in my Boxster) to finish this project. I'll keep the group updated on my progress. . .

Thanks to this thread you have helped resolve a 5 year mystery for me. In '05 I customed ordered a Cayenne with telephone prep, $250. When the car came all I got was a black adapter bolted to passenger hand hold at center console. Dealer said "Porsche has run into problems with FCC regarding telephone sales and has suspended all phone prep." <Insert your own experlative here> I was told I would be contacted when the FCC issue was resolved. After years of inquiry I was told by service rep only way to get phone capability was change out PCM head unit to one with sim drawer, $5000 <insert more colorful experlative here> In '05 when I first got FCC excuse from dealer I bought ( on Ebay) for $50 the entire hardware to equip an '04 Cayenne with mobile phone prep, but let it sit waiting for dealer to advise. I thought I could save some money on hardware using this used stuff. (Part numbers available if anyone wants to know) When I saw this post I dug up my old Ebay hardware plugged it in to wiring harness, dug out my old cellphone from '05 AND THE SYSTEM WORKED!!!!! The radio mutes, PCM announces (visually) incoming call, and calls routed through car speakers. The microphone is even installed. Two problems however; I cannot find the antenna coax cable under passenger seat. Who wants a hard wired cell phone to car (I would like to convert to bluetooth) Anyone hook up a bluetooth using this pigtail under the passenger seat?

Thanks for the Leads . . . If I get a good solution I'll share

Hi gang, Does anyone know of a good aftremarket (or factory) bike rack I can put on my 2000 986 while the factory hard top is installed? Thanks in advance for your insight

I was able to repair my broken rear trunk latch this evening!! And the BEST part, it cost me LESS THAN $2.00!! Here is a summary of the problem and how I repaired it, however, bear in mind this write up is for informational purposes ONLY. I do not take any responsibility for consequences of YOU doing this repair. HISTORY I was unable to open the rear trunk using the key fob. I DID hear the solenoid click when I depressed the key, I WAS able to open the trunk using the manual release. I verified the broken electric release cable by removing the plastic cover of the rear latch by unscrewing the 2 Phillips head screws. Photo Below (sorry for the blurriness) Intact manual release cable (black stopper) Broken electric release cable (white stopper) I went to Hobby People and bought a package of 2 4-40 threaded couplers, $1.85 They are sold in packages of 2. The photo below shows the package the couplers came in, One of the 2 couplers and the broken connection which attaches to the electric release wire and the latch itself. I next used a regular soldering iron and solder to fasten the coupler to the broken wire. It took a little time to melt the solder just right. I imagine you could use an epoxy like JB Weld. The Photo below is actually the finished product but it shows a close up of the weld at this step (to the left). The next step was to put an electrical connector on the threaded side of the coupler. Below is a close up of the electrical connector I had in my garage. The beauty of this design is that the threaded coupler lets you adjust the position of the electrical connector to match up exactly with the latch. Once I got that length just right I soldered the electrical connector to the coupler. Now all I had to do was remove the clip holding the cables to the latch, remove the broken piece and replace it with the new repair. Here are two different angles of the final repair. Next I verified both the manual and electric releases worked properly, then I replaced the black plastic trim piece and I was done!

I found this thread after experiencing the same problem. I'm not in the mood to try and re-thread the cable through the car to replace it. I bet there is a way to use the existing broken cable end and splice a connector to the latch lever? Has anyone been sucessful in repairing it?

Thanks Loren This is looking like a Dealer/Mechanic type fix and not a DIY. Weird coincidence it started after I hooked up the ODB II scanner.

Coincidence? Perhaps But Annoying as HELL! I was trying out the latest software 6.0 from Durametric on my 2000 2.7 when all of a sudden it started Idling very erratically. VERY rough. I pulled the following code, P1502: Porsche fault code 412 - DVE fault during spring test exceeds limit value When I reset the code the car levels out and runs normally. However, when I shut off the motor and start it up again I get the same code and same erratic idle. Any thoughts? Is this a DIY?

Hi Gang I've got an unusual and annoying problem. The passenger door is making a clicking sound. It sounds like an actuator (solenoid) going on and off. Similar to the door lock sound but much quieter. The window seems to work normally, the door lock as well. I hooked the car up to my Durametric cable and did not get an error code. Any thought what this might be? The Car is a 2000 Base Model

PM Sent with request

I am glad we have this thread. I asked the same question from RUSNAK Porsche in Pasadena CA. My 2005 Cayenne is also running the PCM 2.1 The parts guy said they do NOT need to plug the car into the Factory Diagnostics Computer, what he said is the techs do it in the parking lot putting the three disks in one at a time. The parts guy said that it is easy to do and that I could probably do it myself. HOWEVER When I asked for the TSB that covered how to this he gave me some excuse why he didn't have it. The TSB does exist in the Contributing Members Portion of the Forum. I hope someone has actually done it and can guide us chickens how to do it.

Hi Gang I've got a 2000 Base Model 986. I recently installed the '01 cup holders which go in the top DIN slot where the HVAC controls usually went. I was able to route the pig tails for the HVAC controls (with much difficulty) to the lower oddments tray and install the HVAC head unit there. Everything went back together pretty well, the HVAC controls seem to work HOWEVER when I turn on my headlights the display does not switch day to night. (Actually the display is stuck in the Night mode) It is possible I pulled/broke one of the many wires in the four pigtails but I find it unlikely that that would be the only anomoly. Is there a way to reset the HVAC head unit to utilize day and night displays? Thanks Gang

Hello Gang, In the process of resolving a spark plug issue I discovered this situation. There appears to be hose connection to the air box and I discovered a cut hose nearby the air box. The cut hose goes into the vehicle on the drivers side under and in front of the Fuel Filter. Does this hose go into the air box? Any Ideas? There are yellow screwdrivers indicating the hose and air box. Thanks

Hello Gang Yesterday on a leisurely drive my 1983 SC turned into a VW Bug. All of a sudden the normal growl of the 3.0 liter engine at 3000 RPM turned into the 4500 scream of an older VW Bug. It sounded like the muffler was removed. The car lost some power but for the most part ran normally. All indications from the gauges seemed normal except for a higher RPM at idle. When I got her home and let the engine cool I noticed that the Number Two Cylindar spark plug had completely worked itself out. There did not appear to be any damage to the plug. Has this happened to anyone else? Any thoughts or concerns? Thanks RG Najarian

I'm Using Pennzoil 10/40. The pressures indicated are for straight line (no cornering). Admittedly I usually keep the oil level on the slightly lower end of the dip stick. I've added a quarter quart and the numbers have improved. I've already bought the sender. Hopefully I'll be swapping it out soon. Thanks for the input

Hello Gang, I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles) My question is regarding the oil pressure. At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3. When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1. Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again. Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure? Thanks

Best Darn Forum!! I put some electrical tape on the metal connector and the problem went away. Weird since I was using the OEM head unit. NOW to find a replacement antenna for the the GPS unit . . .

I suspected/feared this may be the problem. I'm checking now. THANKS

Hello Gang, Regarding my MY 2000 2.7 986: Three Years ago I replaced the stock CDR 220 head unit with a Traffic Pro GPS unit. All worked well for 3 years. Two weeks ago the GPS stopped working, most likely because the externally mounted antenna got wet and became corroded. In the process of trouble shooting the problem I removed the head unit to check the GPS antenna connection in the back of the head unit. I stopped working on the problem for a week. Then the car would beep once after locking within 5 seconds. I replaced the Traffic Pro with the original CDR 220 AND THE PROBLEM STOPPED! However, after one day the same problem started again (beeping 5 seconds after locking.) I've ordered the Durametric Scanning tool, but until it arrives I wonder if anyone has any ideas. THANKS