g00sestepper

Thanks both for the info here. I checked the oil level this morning - the electronic shows full, and the dipstick shows over the full line (where it is about 1.5mm over). My garage is just about level.... Could a very small difference here make that 1.5mm difference on the dipstick? Given that I plan to change the oil again in a few weeks once spin on received (where I wanted to give it a good flush out), is it ok to leave until then (Probably around 2-300 miles in the interim) or is 1.5mm significant enough to do something about it now? If so, I thought about dumping the oil in the filter housing, going for a drive and then doing it again? Afterall the difference must only be 200ml at the very most so doing it twice would prob drop it to one segment less than full. I would measure the exact amount removed and deduct from 8.4 initially added to hopefully get my perfect volume for next time. Also, just to confirm, when I installed the filter, I placed it into the housing and screwed it on rather than secure it onto car and then screw housing on. Is this ok? Cheers

Thanks Ahsai, I will check again in the morning. Why is it that there is so much stuff around checking at operating temp? Other than ensuring that the oil becomes thinner and drains to the sump quicker to ensure a more accurate reading, I am at a loss as to why this is as it expands when hot!?

Hi I have just changed the oil on my car (after 5.5k miles) and used Mobil 1 0W40 - thank you for all of the information on here which really helped me. For those in the UK looking for a good deal on this oil, costco stock it all year round - £29.85 for 5 litres! I used a porsche filter as I am awaiting my LN drain plug and spin on. I was so careful in trying not to overfill. Having read so many different fill capacities, I decided upon 8.5 litres. Once all drained (which incidentally was 9 litres although warm), I replaced the drain plug (50 nm) and also the filter - I poured new oil into the housing (around half way up) before torquing to 25nm (something I read on here to stop a dry start?), and then filled the car. Including the pre mentioned amount into the filter housing, 7.2 litres at this stage. I then took the car around the block to warm it up. When I got back, waited a few mins and checked the electronic gauge. It flashed on the bottom rung. The dipstick was at just below minimum. I then proceeded to put in a further 1.2 litres to 8.4 in total and took out again (as I remember reading that each rung is 0.2 litres and therefore 7, 1.4), parked up, waited and checked electronic - 1 below max. Checked dipstick and spot on max. Happy with that, I drove home from my father's house (120 miles of fast driving) and checked the oil again after a few mins. The electronic gauge shows full and the dipstick shows ever so slightly over max. Is the above normal? Should I be dropping some out? I have thought about replacing the oil again once the LN arrives, hopefully in a few weeks. I am kicking myself as I tried to be so careful. Also, I wanted to get the exact amount for my car so that in future I can drain it completely and fill with exactly with what I have done today so that I don't have to mess about warming up and checking etc. On a side note, I used a magnet in the spent oil, and checked it meticulously. There was only 1 bright metal flake (around 2mm square and wafer thin). I also dissected the filter - not one metal particle. In relation to this aspect, it has put my mind at ease somewhat with all of the IMS issues (mine hasn't been replaced - 25k miles on clock). Thoughts? Kind regards Richard

I had a similar problem.... Replaced the camshaft sensor (hall sender) and all is well. When I read up about it, apparently if it fails, it can take around 10 seconds to start. Just a thought. Cheers

Hi Steve I found this; http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/6669-oem-turbo-spoiler-on-my-c4s-cab/ Hope it helps. Cheers

Hi Steve I looked into this a while ago and decided against it for a couple of reasons.... Apparently, the mechanism underneath the lid for the spoiler goes too much into the engine bay so some modification would need to be done to get it to fit (also, I think the turbo spoiler is hydraulic rather than mechanical). Secondly, the stripe along the back of a 4s is one of my favourite parts of the car and this would be no more...... These are both for OE. However, I did find this; http://mashaw.com/html/product_info.html 2/3 down the page is a turbo lid with a stripe on what looks to be a WB car! I think it's aftermarket though and don't know whether any mods would be required to fit it. I hope I am factually correct with the above..... I am sure someone may kindly correct me if not. Kind regards Richard

Hi In relation to the above taking range 1 for example, is the number of ignitions the number of times the limiter has been reached, or the number of sparks from plugs while being at the limiter (I.e if I drove around in 1st all day at the limiter, I would have done it once, but there would be thousands of ignitions)? Thanks

Hi These are such a good idea and appear to be a very safe alternative. I am going to purchase a couple. I jacked up my car for the first time this weekend (my2004 996 C4S) and the jacking points are a bit rusty and flaky (obviously where these pads haven't been used by the previous owner), and one is slightly deformed. In order to prevent further rust, what is the best way to get rid of the existing, and what can I use once done (some sort of heavy duty sealant?)? Also, is it a no no to bend the deformed jacking point back into place, or is this likely to weaken it? I plan on keeping the car for many years to come so don't want to hit snags later. Thanks in advance. Rich

Hi Sorry for the late reply with this but have just taken my hard top off for the summer. I drove on the m62 for a good few miles today with varying road surfaces and it ranged from 80 to 90db at 70mph. Around 84 most of the time with no blowers etc on and in 5th gear (tip). I also have the gundo hack done so don't know whether this may add a little. What are your readings at 70? I may look to do something similar to you as there are a few rattles and creaks which I would love to get rid of. A job for the summer I think. Regards Richard

Hi I have got a 996 C4S with PCM and OBC and have been trying to decide which way I go with this one, namely; 1) dension / mobridge / tooki / viseoo 2) new double din unit incorporating Bluetooth for music and phone, nav, USB to plug external hdd in. I tend to lean on the side of number 2 as more up to date and more functionality / easier to use. However, I do have one concern which I can't seem to see on the web. Does the OBC continue to work properly with an aftermarket unit? The above link has a wiring harness with the cage but there is no canbus and so will the screen / info still display everything? Are pcm and OBC completely separate units? On pcm, the trip info is displayed where presumably this would be lost. In addition to the above, although I don't have Bose, upon decoding my options, I have M440 and unsure as to whether this was standard or an extra. There is an amp in the front trunk. Does the wiring harness accommodate this or will I have to bypass the amp and wire directly from the head unit to speakers with a bridge? When it comes to the GPS antenna, can the original in the car continue to be used or will I have to install the kenwood / alpine et al antenna? Your thoughts on the above would be appreciated. Thanks Richard

The car was first registered in the uk on 28th November 2003 (c16 code so uk spec). The bonnet sticker, service book, and v5 all match this number. Could it still be a replacement given this? I had a Boxster from new in 2004 (986) and the engine went after 6k miles. When they replaced it under warranty, they didn't change the stickers, book, or the v5. Should this have been done? What are the benefits of a 2004 engine over a 2003? I read about a stronger ims bearing on a 2005.... Could mine potentially have this in it?

Got a c4s cab and an iphone with the app so will check at the weekend and let you know! Cheers

Thanks Loren. In terms of being a contributor, is there a recommended / minimum amount and frequency?

Found it! M96/0366406156 Wonder what tales it can tell!?

Thank you both for your help with this. I have just performed an RAC HPI check and it all came back clean (including no outstanding finance). The only weird thing was private number plates on the car where dates don't tally up. I think it must pull the plate details rather than the car. Not concerned re this though as I have all documentation including copies of the previous v5s and also porsche receipts with the reg marks on. In relation to the engine number, needle and haystack spring to mind! I don't have ramps and have been as far under the car as I can and can't find it. Where on the picture earlier in this thread is the number? The v5 has an engine number of 66406156 and this has been confirmed by rac too. The porsche service book and sticker under bonnet have engine code / trans code of: M9603-664 A9635- 10 Do I just post the numbers on the thread above for info? Cheers

Where do I go to find it? Excuse my ignorance as new to this.... what info would you be able to find out about it? Cheers You will be able to tell if the engine matches the age of the car and if it is an exchange unit.Did you do an HPI check to find out if there is any outstanding debt on the car or if it has been classed as a write off? Ah, right. No, I didn't get this done. Strangely enough, I bought it from Cardiff and drove up the night before. Stayed at the royal lodge in symonds yat! Is it worth getting one done now? All of the paperwork matches and all of the servicing / receipts etc. upon finding the engine number, what is the process for checking if it has been swapped etc etc? Cheers

Where do I go to find it? Excuse my ignorance as new to this.... what info would you be able to find out about it? Cheers

A PPI is your last chance to catch something that could significantly alter your interest in the car before you part with some serious money. Quite often, a good PPI will identify some small items that need fixing, which you can use a leverage in your negotiations on price. You need to remember that once you have paid for the car, everything becomes your problem. We have seen some beautiful cars that totally took a dive during a PPI, including find 2.7L Boxster engines where a much larger engine should have been. You really do not want to be on the hook when that happens. A recent poster here told about finding a 2009 PDK equipped car that was supposed to have a small oil leak in the PDK, closer inspection found the car needed a new $17K transmission. I'd strongly suggest you don't go there............. I'd suggest you contact the local PCA chapter where you live, they can probably give you a list of shops in your area that can do the PPI. From what I read, to avoid IMS issues you would need to look at 997.2s. I would definitely have a PPI performed. As others have said, find a well reputed local independent that specializes in Porsches. This should be a different shop to the one that the current owner uses for their maintenance. Also, not all PPIs are created equal. You should go over with the mechanic what they're going to look for and make sure that they go through the things that you've become aware of through reading the forums like plastic or metal particles in the oil filter, etc. Where at all possible, you should also verify that the work that's been done (based on the supplied service history.)One last comment: these are mass production cars. If you have a major requirement that this particular example does not have, wait for the next one.

Please see above..... I will understand this one day!

Sorry to hear that Nehmaiz, I feel for you. I am not a mechanic but found this on the web; Hydrolock most commonly occurs in automobiles when driving through floods, either where the water is above the level of the air intake or the vehicle's speed is excessive, creating a tall bow wave. A vehicle fitted with a cold air intake mounted low on the vehicle will be especially vulnerable to hydrolocking when being driven through standing water or heavy precipitation. Engine coolant entering the cylinders through various means (such as a blown head gasket) is another common cause. Excessive fuel entering (flooding) one or more cylinders in liquid form due to or other abnormal operating conditions can also cause hydrolock. Regards Richard

Thank you very much for all of your comments. I initially replied but for some reason it didn't post. I eventually went to to see the car yesterday and had a ppi done and bought it! The things that came back were; Overall condition for age 9.5 / 10 Coffin arms slightly debonding P0343 camshaft code stored (phase sensor 1(camshaft Hall effect sensor 1)) Rear tyres 4mm and worn on inside, front 6mm and slightly worn on inside N/s condenser blown and o/s slightly damp Slight stain around water pump, NSF Coolant pipe slight stain (side of tank). He informed me that the hall sender is £210 inc vat plus 50 fitting as bank 1 and easy to get to. The online book he looked at said 'check signal wire from dme control module, pin III/20, to cmp sensor for short circuit to b+'....... Not ok, repair wiring harness' In relation to the coolant stains, he advised new clips as 'these corrode over time and are an easy fix'. He also quoted 400 parts and 200 fitting for both condensers. He plugged the computer in and the only fault ever registered was the above cam shaft sensor. The car has covered a total of 35652 km and 884 operating hours.... Number of ignitions, range 1 284 579h Number of ignition, range 2 - - He seemed to think that the above was a good thing? I also had a good look around the car and it looked in really good shape (I am not a mechanic but interested!). The crank casing was bone dry and there were no visual leaks anywhere. The breaks have no lips and pads 20f 25r % worn. The mufflers at back have slight corrosion but only minimal. The car has had the 'Gundo hack' done. The paintwork is immaculate with 2 tiny stone chips on bonnet and no wheel scuffs. No scratches at all. As it is a cab, he had a module fitted so that he could put the back windows up when roof down and also put roof down when moving. It also has a full porsche service history (last one major 3k miles ago in April 13) and I have every single receipt etc, even down to replacement bulbs! Both rads were also replaced at last service along with a low temp thermostat. I think I may have paid slightly over the odds but do personally think that it will pay off in the long run. Including 4 new tyres, the total bill will probably come to around £2k but the car will hopefully be immaculate at that stage. The mechanic said that other than the things he pointed out, it would be good for another 2-3 years before anything else comes up (other than unexpected of course!). I drove it home yesterday (nearly 5 hours) and really enjoyed the drive. The only thing I did notice is that the oil gauge fluctuated between just over 3 and 4.3 ish depending on speed and acceleration etc. is this normal? The water temp sits only a fraction below 80. Is this normal too? I just want to make sure that I am not missing a trick and continue driving it if it isn't. All in all I am very chuffed and I am totally addicted to the sound and experience. I don't know why I didn't take the plunge sooner. I would appreciate any thoughts on the above, and also other things to check / look at / modify to enhance the longevity of the car. Kind regards Richard

Good afternoon I have just registered as a member and this is my first post, so I apologise is this is not in the correct place. I need a little help if possible. I have had a Boxster in the past (which incidentally had a complete ims failure after 6k miles, but thankfully under warranty) and have always druelled over the 996 C4S. I am now in a position to purchase one but want to make sure I am doing the right thing. I have read many of the posts on various forums which, in the main, seems to boil down to getting the newest model within your price range, even if it has slightly more miles on it. I have spotted one that I like. It's a 2003 cab tip with 20k miles and 1 previous owner. It looks absolutely immaculate both inside and out. I know, I know, tip! However, I really fancy one as I have got used to driving autos and live in a stop start lights area. I do, however, like driving manual cars but tend to be too aggressive, and can't help red lining them in every gear, constantly! Once I have bought the right car, I plan to keep the car forever and look after it so resale doesn't really affect me (tip). I have already looked into ims and rms which is why I'm thinking do I spend more and get newer? But I absolutely love the C4S and would always be thinking 'I wish I had only'. The car has all paperwork from new and has been garaged. I plan to go and look at it soon (5 hour drive). If bought, I then plan to get the ims solution, new rms, full service etc done (the last service was a major just under 1 year ago - fpsh). Is there anything else I should be considering during the process? Do tip cars have anything to look for over manual? I also hear people talk about PPI prior to buying. Would it be stupid if I didn't get this done, and just got a list of things to look for / check, even though I am considering the work above, and potentially any further suggestions? Thank you in advance for any useful info / responses. Richard