GromitInWA

According to my Bentley manual, the Bose units used between 1999 and 2001 are different to the ones between 2002 to 2003, and then it 2004 it changed again and added MOST. In my car, the rear speakers are wired in parallel, which means that there is no left rear and right rear, despite there being a physical left rear and right rear speaker. When I examine the connector going to the amp inside the frunk, the rear speakers have already been bridged. Does anyone know where this actually takes place? My guess is that it would be in the dash somewhere. Thanks!

If you drive normally I would go with OEM. If you track, semi solids or solids might be good.

Why would you not buy these Corteco ones - they are OEM? http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0909/POR_0909_ENGMIS_pg3.htm#item9 I would not touch 60k used motor mounts.

It should pull out but it has many large prongs so it might feel stuck. I ended up having to use a pair of pliers to grip the entire switch and pull it. Then the second time I broke it by pulling on the inner part :(

That's good to know!

OP: just got the regular offer email from Harbor Freight and saw that the DS708 is down to $1100 and I assume that you could use a 20% off coupon to reduce the price still further.

I have a 3-spoke wheel. The emblem on the airbag is rather tired looking and I was hoping to replace it. Looking at the parts diagram, it appears that it is not available separately. Obviously, I don't want to buy a new airbag for an emblem, so does anyone have any thoughts on how to remove just the emblem and where to find a replacement? I don't fancy trying to repaint it myself - I do not have the steady hands of a surgeon and if I did I'd probably be driving a brand new 991 ;)

I posted on Rennlist about this recently as a result of seeing an article in the Porsche Club GB magazine about cylinder scoring, which coincidentally promotes the aforementioned waterless coolant product (scanned version here.) It seems that on that side of the Atlantic, cylinder scoring is the Porsche killer whereas on this side, it is the IMS bearing. Assuming that cylinder scoring is indeed more prevalent there than over here, and isn't just a result of hype from certain vendors, I wonder if there is a plausible technical reason? The theory that I came up with is that virtually every engine in the UK is subject to the same climate, but in the US there is much more variation in climate. If there are more M96/97 engines in the US than in the UK, it stands to reason that any cold climate-related issues are going to be more prevalent in the UK. However, I given that that the engine, and in turn the coolant, operates at much higher than ambient temperature, I have a hard time believing that climate has any bearing on the situation. As an aside, based on what I read about waterless coolants, it seems to be more commonly used in vintage cars and certain automotive-based aircraft engines (Rotax) The lack of water means no corrosion, which is beneficial in antique vehicles. However, while waterless coolant avoids the issue with traditional water-based coolant turning into steam at high temperatures, potentially causing cavitation, it is less efficient than water at removing heat. Therefore, the system will run hotter overall. I do not know if this matters in practice. For my own car, a 2002 996, I plan to do a coolant flush with Porsche factory coolant dilute per the recommendation in the not too distant future. I have a small coolant leak that I need to isolate and may well take the opportunity to do the water pump, in which case I'll go for the lower temperature thermostat as JFP in PA suggests.

I used new shims where I had them and re-used old ones where I didn't (only had new ones for one side...) I did not use any kind of adhesive on the re-used ones and have found that I have very minor squeaks - not enough to bother me. My local shop told me that for track cars, they do not bother with the shims. Note that I did not replace the rotors and I used Textar pads, so you may experience something else with different pads.

Art - definitely the line and not the sender? The sender is easier and cheaper to replace. Make sure that your shop knows that they can do the line replacement without taking the front end apart. If they need advice they could probably call my shop that did the work: Chris' German Auto in Bellevue WA.

Yes they are if they look undamaged. You can use anti squeal paste as you suggest or just put them back in as is which is what I did and have not noticed any squealing.

Always great to have another DIY!

How should I pronounce Ahsai?

Many thanks as always!

There seems to be a particular spot when I turn the wheel where I get a squeak. It is more noticeable at slow speeds because of the amount that the wheel is turned. It does sound like it is coming from the wheel or column rather than anywhere else. I was going to get the front wheels off the ground and turn the wheel to isolate where the wheel/column squeaks, then remove the wheel to see if there's anywhere obvious to apply lubrication. Does this sound like viable approach?

I finally talked to someone that made sense on this subject. I talked to Andraya at Sunset Imports in Beaverton, Oregon. Andraya informed me that Porsche has the Parts on hand to manufacture the Lastest version for third Brake Light (996.631.050.06) and it could take a alittle while to get them assembled and shipped out. I was added to her list of 911 owners needing this part. I'm really surprised that it is different to the 996.2 part. I had to get a replacement for my 2002 and Jim Ellis had it. If you like I can send you my broken one so that you can determine whether the 996.2 part will in fact fit. Just pay me shipping :)

Many thanks.

I was under my car attempting to do the spark plugs (got 3 out of the 6 between the two sides but that's another story.) I thought I'd try to remove the exhaust tips to give them a good polish but although the bolt came out easily, the tip would not budge because of the spot welds that are present. From other posts this seems to be unusual since I thought they just slid off. What's the easiest way to get them off? Do you think that I'll get rattling if they are reattached just with the bolt and no new welds?

Thanks. Very true about time in service but it is a question of prioritisation.

I cleaned the throttle body a few weeks ago and noticed oil deposits as well as a few drops. I have no idea when this area was last cleaned but I understand that some oil is not abnormal. Today I cleaned it again because I was in there to clean the MAF sensor and noticed the oil drop in the picture below. Reason for concern? I'm pretty sure I have an original AOS from 2002. I'm not seeing large puffs of blue/white smoke.

Yes. I'll have a chat with them to see what they did.

So a PST2 or PIWIS and not the Autologic system that my indy uses?

Thanks JFP. I might be mistaken about the 13 litres though I think it is what the diagnostic tool (Autologic) suggested. One question: the recesses mentioned above make me wonder if those instructions are for a C4?

I have a new fuel sender and it was replaced with an almost empty tank. Since then, the fuel gauge no longer reads full. I've read threads about calibration, zip ties on the lines and also the vent line preventing the tank from filling. However, I filled the tank up to overflowing and then drove it until the refuel light came on. Thinking that I actually had 1/4 tank plus the 1/8 reserve left, I drove it some more and calculated that I should have had about 4 gallons left when I took it to my Indy for calibration. They drained the tank and found just about fumes (less than a gallon) then they filled to 13 liters and did the calibration. I then filled up to the gills again and the gauge reads 3/4 or a little and rises slightly but never to full. As stated before, the gauge used to work. From the observed behavior, it seems that the tank is filling to full and the gauge is not reading off (since when the gauge was reading empty the tank really was). The only other piece of information is that I have pulled the instrument cluster to fish a Bluetooth microphone to the factory spot, but everything has been reconnected and other gauges appear to work. So what are your thoughts... Defective replacement fuel sender or something else?

Kbrandsma - would love to. The NW PCA group is quite active too.