GromitInWA

No as I discovered on Saturday when this happened. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mine had a leak in the fuel line from the fuel sender. It is located under the battery tray. Fuel had pooled on top of it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Loren. Yes I've gone through the troubleshooting steps in the workshop manual for the alarm codes, and everything checks out. So perhaps the alarm control module has a problem even though it looks fine and there are no signs of water incursion.

Replaced the solenoid. New one has a higher resistance but does not solve my double beep/no central locking issue.

I determined that the cause of my problem was Durametric 6.5.3.5 not being able to reset codes. The 6.5.3.6 version released on 5/3/17 has fixed this bug. Plugging in the seat belt receptacle to the wiring harness, turning the ignition on and clearing the code did the trick.

In my continuing quest of figuring out my alarm double beep issue, I'm trying to determine whether my trunk release solenoid is acting up. Does anyone know what the correct resistance should be across its pins? I'm getting about 4.7 Ohms. MY02 996 Carrera 2 Cabriolet.

Is the parking brake on? My microswitch failed and the parking brake light was not. Sprayed cleaner on the switch and it has been working since.

Update on my original issue - there's now quite a long thread over on Rennlist about this: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/988367-alarm-double-beep-and-central-locking-frustration.html Currently the bonnet/front hood/trunk latch is suspected.

I removed the driver seat after consulting with my mechanic who suggested that it would be much easier. I put in the new buckle but I still have the same problem (Code 46). With the ignition set to on, and subsequently with the engine running, I cleared the code using Durametric, but it returned when I switched off the ignition and switched it on again. From the workshop manual, I measured the resistance between the buckle pins and got the correct 400 Ohms resistance, so the replacement buckle is good. 2. On the connector that comes from the wiring loom of the car, I've measured the resistance between the grounded pins that go to the belt buckle and the ground point by the alarm control unit and get about 1 Ohm. When I measure the resistance from the brown wires in the same header connector, I get under 1 Ohm. I wouldn't have thought that this difference would be enough to trigger the warning. What do you think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After working on my central locking issue and reinstalling the driver's seat, Durametric reports a driver seat belt error code, which triggers the airbag warning light (I think it is is code 45 - don't have it in front of me). Reading various threads including this one, TSB 1/04 6924 Airbag Warning Light Comes On: Fault Codes 45, 46, 48 and 49 -- dated Jul 21, 2004 is referenced. I have verified that my VIN is prior to the manufacturing modification to use the new wiring harness. I've also seen that the driver's side seat belt receptacle is "sticky". I've tried cleaning contacts, etc. but no dice. I've also measured continuity between the ground points and the appropriate pins on the connector to the seatbelt receptacle and they look good. Questions: Can I remove the seatbelt receptacle without removing the driver's seat? Do I really need to perform the wiring harness modification or might just replacing the seatbelt receptacle be sufficient? Looks like I would need to get under the passenger seat to get to the airbag module to do so properly.

Car: 2002 C2 cab. Driver side latch was replaced last year as was the front hood latch. Symptoms: 1. Double beep when I try to lock with the key fob, and locks to do not lock. 2. Central locking switch LED on. 3. Unlock possible with key fob. Using Durametric, I get the following codes: 47 - Control locking synchronization 60 - Central locking limit position Lock not reached61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Here's what I've done so far: 1. Assumed it was the passenger side latch causing an issue and replaced it. No change, so put the old one back. 2. Removed driver's seat and removed and inspected alarm control module (exterior and interior). No water incursion found. Circuit board looks OK: no burns or visible defects. 3. Followed the Bentley and Porsche workshop manual troubleshooting for these error codes (Workshop Manual is far more useful). No issues found. 4. Reviewed the schematics and tested continuity to ground and continuity between driver side and alarm module and passenger side and alarm module. No issues found. Put it all back together and initially it seemed fine. Then it started to repeat the double beep. At this point I'm not sure what to do... I see conflicting information about whether the exterior and interior door handle microswitches will cause a double beep or a single beep. Can anyone advise? I'd rather troubleshoot these than sending off the alarm module, DME and keys for diagnosis, which seems to be the next step according to the Workshop Manual. I now also have an airbag failure light supposedly caused by the driver seatbelt receptacle. Will post separately about this.

Yeah it was. Used one on the end of a ratchet wrench to get to it. Fiddly.

I'm trying to diagnose alarm/locking issues and want to undo the electrical connector between the door and the body to test wiring continuity. This connector has a rubber shroud for weatherproofing and this is connected to the door by a fastener. Due to the position, it is difficult to see what type of head this fastener has (hex, Torx, etc.) Does anyone know? I tried the imprint in my fingertip method, but it wasn't very conclusive.

Thanks for sharing your solution!

Nice!!!

I echo the comments about measuring oil on a level surface. Do you have maintenance records? I would replace the oil and oil filter and check for particles. Doing so accomplishes two things: (1) You will have new oil and can start your oil change regimen, (2) You will have a baseline for monitoring any particles that appear in the oil filter. Some send their oil for analysis and monitor the results.

I created an Instructables consisting of photos of each step. You can see it here.

Many thanks Loren.

The amplifier in the frunk mounts using M6 bolts onto the front of the battery compartment. The bolts fasten into a rubber plug with brass threads that in turn is pushed into a hole in the metal of the battery compartment. These rubber plugs have perished and I need to find replacements. I've not had success finding them in the online parts catalogues and they do not seem to have a part number on them. Help please!

As you can see the labor charges add up. According to the info I've found, each service have the following labor times: Oil service - 0.5 Manual transmission fluid - 0.5 Brake bleeding - 2.0 Looking at your figures, it looks like they're using slightly different labor hours. What is their hourly rate? Around here it is $180/hour. The oil service is missing a new oil filter. Transmission fluid is an easy DIY and requires no special tools. Brake fluid and bleeding will be easier if you have a power bleeder. Coolant is the hardest since it requires a bunch of fiddling under the car with hoses and compressed air. So all can be DIY, it just depends on what gear you have and time at your disposal.

Looks like you found a new door. How on earth do you fix the quarter panel?

Many thanks Loren!

I have two issues with my 2002 C2 cab with 85k miles that I think are unrelated although I noticed them both for the first time yesterday. 1. The main horn always works when the ignition is off. When the ignition is on, the horn sometimes does not work. I determined that if the steering wheel has been turned, the horn may start to work. Having read the various horn issue threads leads me to believe that the wire from the horn switch in the steering wheel is the likely culprit. Does this sound reasonable or is there other troubleshooting that I should do? 2. When the ignition is turned to on, the central locking switch on the dashboard immediately lights up and stays on. If I try to unlock using this switch, I get a double alarm beep and the switch stays lit. This seems sporadic and possibly ambient temperature related. With the cabriolet top up, when I open the driver side door from the inside or outside, the window does not move. The passenger side works as expected. Durametric shows three alarm module codes: 47 Central Locking Synchronization (Occurrence Counter 2) 54 Radio Receiver Defective (Occurrence Counter 5) 61 Central Locking Limit Position Unlock Not Reached (Occurrence Counter 27) Code 54 does not concern me because I did not clip the radio alarm wire when installing a different radio. Based on reviewing other threads, the other two codes lead me to suspect the door lock assembly unit that contains five microswitches. Again, does this seem reasonable, and if so does it make sense to replace the two door handle switches at the same time since they're relatively cheap? Thanks for your insights.

Hi Julie, I'm also in Bellevue. I had my AOS done at Chris' German earlier in the year. I was also going to get the IMS done at the same time but it turns out that my car has a rebuilt engine and the IMS had been replaced with the non replaceable kind found on the later cars. Apart from Chris', I also go to Squires and on occasion Bellevue Porsche (formerly Barrier). PM me if you want to discuss specifics further. If the AOS was already replaced, I'm not sure why it would need replacing again. Granted it is only a $150 part but why replace it unless there is a reason to do so? When they are doing the IMS, they will be able to inspect the clutch and flywheel. In my case, the clutch did not to be replaced so it was not done. The previous owner put a new clutch in a 73k miles and I am at 86k miles. Again, I tend to believe in replacing what needs replacing. I'm not aware of any particular "post-operative" care that's required. If there is no evidence that the water pump has been replaced, I would have this done. If, however, it was done less than 40k ago, I'd leave it alone. If there's not evidence of coolant leaks (telltale white stains in the engine compartment especially on the tubes), I would leave that alone. However, it is worth having the latest "blue cap" for the coolant tank if you do not always have this. It is probably worth doing draining and replacing the coolant, transmission oil and brake fluid especially if you do not do not know when this was done. Hope this helps. David.

Thanks Loren. I didn't realize that the location of the connection on the wiring diagram indicated where it was physically. Well I guess that I'd have to run wires from the speakers, which is probably more work than I'm willing to do.