Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

GromitInWA

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    89

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GromitInWA

  1. GromitInWA
    Gordon24 - saw from another thread that you're in the Bellevue WA area. Metropolitan Detail sells Sonax. I've been very happy with that for the same reasons that Electrict pointed out.
  2. GromitInWA
    Once your immediate issue is resolved, to look for water leaks, you might want to sit in the car while someone hoses it down different sections methodically. Have towels handy. Prior to doing this, I would check for obvious missing/deformed/badly reinstalled weatherstripping and fitment issues. Alternatively, you could take it back to the shop that did the painting and have them do it - I would at least contact them to let them know of your displeasure.
  3. GromitInWA
    Timely thread. I am looking to do this myself. Had the wheels off yesterday to try and decided to wait until I have more time. kbrandsma - thanks for the link to the 2010 thread. I definitely think that for my minimal abilities and dexterity removing the mufflers will be helpful. The upshot is that I polished the exhaust tips and am trying to repair curb rash on one of the removed wheels :)
  4. GromitInWA
    Thanks Loren. Upon closer inspection of the switch, it seems that the contacts on the white part have bent over. It looks like the contact in the black receptacle that wire A9 goes into is deformed and is inaccessible. I bent the contacts that I could get to and reinstalled it and while not 100% functional, at least the turn signals work! I'll put in the replacement part when I receive it.
  5. GromitInWA
    I have a 2002 996 C2 cabriolet. 1. I'm confused about xenon bulb replacement. Based on a fit guide, I ordered D1S bulbs. However, when I removed the left headlight assembly, there was a label on the back of the control unit that says D2S. The right headlight assembly has no such indication. I've not opened them up to see what is actually in there but thought I'd ask whether the use of D1S or D2S varies depending on what was "in the parts bin" at the time? 2. I hamfistedly broke my hazard light switch (by pulling on the white assembly rather than on the tabs.) I have ordered a new one but in the meantime discovered that without the switch, my turn signals are inoperative. I tried to reassemble the broken switch and put it back in only to find that the hazard lights came on, the left turn signal came on (with the stalk in the off position) and after a few seconds the airbag and rollover bar warnings appeared on the computer. I have since removed the switch and those warnings have disappeared. Any idea if have done irreparable damage to something electronic and expensive...?
  6. GromitInWA
    Turned out to be the line. Several hours of work and two people were required to avoid the necessity for removing the fuel tank. The trick is to lower the tank. There are two support bars for it and they can be removed. Once the tank is lowered, the fuel line can be snaked through. I'm making it sound easier than it was though... However, at least the entire front end did not have to be dismantled!
  7. GromitInWA
    Thanks. I'll keep that in mind and report back. Glad your problem is solved!
  8. GromitInWA
    High revs are your friend. Don't change up all the time. Not great for fuel economy but if you wanted that you'd be in a Ford Fiesta Ecoboost!
  9. GromitInWA
    For what its worth, mine were more out of whack than yours (see my previous post in this thread) and I didn't see that kind of wear.
  10. GromitInWA
    Thanks jjb7. I will add these when I update the write-up. You will also have noticed that I did nothing about the alarm contact. I will address this once I get my car back from my mechanic (fuel leak)
  11. GromitInWA
    Assuming they are from the wear pads, would this imply that the chain tensioning paddles should be examined?
  12. GromitInWA
    You could pull the oil filter and cut it open to check for bits. While you're at it you could install a magnetic drain plug. If you get an inspection done at a local Porsche indy they could do that for you and also check diagnostic codes and values. This might help get in front of potential problems. If I'm not mistaken clutches are generally done around 60k so when you do that you could have IMS done and flywheel checked.
  13. GromitInWA
    What kind of tires are those?
  14. GromitInWA
    Update: my shop spoke to the local dealer and was told that there is "a trick" that means that they can replace it without removing the tank. They have not yet received the replacement line, but when it comes in they think that it will take about a day to do the work. If I can, I will try to find out what the trick is. I spoke to a Porsche dealer and asked them what they would charge as well as the number of hours to replace the line. I had not heard about the "no need to remove the fuel tank trick" and I explained that it would require removing the steering rack and basically disassembling the entire front end. I was quoted 8.5 hours for $1350, which would include the alignment cost.
  15. GromitInWA
    Definitely looks like a crack! If that ends up being the cause of your leak, I'm very happy for you! I took a look at the workshop manual for pulling the fuel tank. It is rather involved and requires disconnecting steering gear and front suspension (I think). Love that since I just got it aligned... I'm not sure if you feel like attaching a remote battery and trying to do a diagnosis with soapy water to see whether the leak is from the crack on the sender or the fuel line, or whether it just makes sense to spend $300 on a new sender and see what happens... Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
  16. GromitInWA
    But does it tell you how to replace a fuel line? ;)
  17. GromitInWA
    I'll definitely let you know what my mechanic says when they receive the line. From what I've seen, neither the workshop manuals nor Bentley are helpful with respect to the actual fuel line path. My clue was a slight fuel smell from the exterior of the car, which I determined was strongest from the passenger side wheel well. Googling that turned up "cracked fuel sender"
  18. GromitInWA
    Thanks!
  19. GromitInWA
    It is a CR-220 (rocking a tape deck) Here is a picture of the side of it, the red circle is around the pad. And here is the view of the spring contact in the dash. The red arrow point to what looks like a detached connector, which I had not noticed until I looked at the photo.
  20. GromitInWA
    @Loren - you put that over the spring contact on the left side of the receptacle for the radio? Sorry to be so dense about this...
  21. GromitInWA
    Thanks Richard. So I want to cut the wire and insulate the end rather than ground it?
  22. GromitInWA
    I recently installed an after market head unit and did nothing to the alarm contact or wire that goes into the radio harness. When the car locks, I get a single beep (which I expected based on what I read.) It sounds like the recommendation is to cut the blue/brown alarm wire and ground it. Would it not be better to create a raised pad on the side of the new head unit that will press the alarm contact? I figured that I could super glue a rubber shim to the side of the radio.
  23. GromitInWA
    Here you go Coloradocurt: "We could see that the fuel was leaking from the coupler joint, not the line itself. We did this by drying everything off, then hooking the battery up with jumper cables so we could watch the area. Fuel immediately started leaking from the joint. We inspected the pipe coming out of the sender, and found no cracks, scratches, or abrasions, so concluded that the coupler was at fault. I did order a new sender unit just in case. Will let you know how it goes. We will make an attempt at installing the line without removing the tank, but we won’t be able to evaluate that until we have the line in our hand."
  24. GromitInWA
    Coloradocurt - yes I'll try to get an answer. I was there and could see him under the hood but I was on a work call so couldn't get close to watch what he was actually doing. Prior to the test, the discussion was exactly about the options you mentioned. I did see him use a spray bottle (soapy water?) and once he was done he'd eliminated the fuel sender itself as the source. I was actually hoping that it was the sender because even though it is a more expensive part, at least the replacement process is well known. My shop has never replaced this particular fuel line on a 996 and nor had the local dealer, so we're in exploratory surgery mode... If anyone has experience doing so and in particular has knowledge of what needs to be pulled apart, please share! One point worth bearing in mind: while the fuel is under pressure, presumably the leak itself is very small because there is only a small amount of fuel present on top of the sender and I do not notice loss of fuel so I think that rules out a larger quantity of it pooling that gets lost due to evaporation. Anyway Curt, I'll stop pontificating and ask the question :)
  25. GromitInWA
    Thanks xxaarraa. I've yet to be impressed with any in car microphone - my $60 Motorola headset blows them all away - but thanks for the tip :) After a few days of living with the head unit, I'm not overly impressed with its Bluetooth streaming functionality at least when used with an iphone. You can read my review on Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IA7LCFC/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.